Volvo5.0

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Everything posted by Volvo5.0

  1. The relay that the blue wire from the air pump plugs into.
  2. The air pump relay on your car is a big relay that mounts to the air pump (on the air pump bracket). Did you leave that relay plugged in?
  3. So with SAS and EVAP deleted have you been able to establish readiness?
  4. The hardware appears to be the same, at least it was on the m4.3 I did for my son. I flashed a non-turbo m4.3 ecu with the Euro R manual file (626) and it worked fine. BCS was fully functional. M4.4 may be different though...
  5. That video is wrong. I think Keaton85 might have caught that and mentioned it somewhere earlier in this thread. Just for the record, that's not my video. The guy who did that video, even though he can't count, has much better soldering skills than I do
  6. Your mileage is probably good but Hussein is right, your trip meter numbers are skewed because of the injectors. The greens you're using might be stock Volvo injectors, but they were never "stock" on an 850 with M4.3 I was stoked when I first installed my engine, but soon realized I'm not getting close to the 32mpg that my trip meter shows for city driving. Glad it's up and running. Post up some logs when you get a chance. What parameters are you logging?
  7. Be careful with those small bolts. Torque spec on a M7 bolt is 17NM, which is about 12.5ft/lb
  8. +1 on this.... The M6 and M7 bolts both have a 10mm head, so it would be an easy mistake to put the wrong bolt in. If you're sure the hole is stripped, you're right, it's in a really bad spot to try to repair. You could try removing the main water pipe to see if you can get a straight shot at the hole. You probably want to be under the car, because if you're working from the top it will be tough to see what you're doing. If you can't get a straight shot at it or don't have enough room to use the tap, then pull the head back off. You don't want to fuck it up any more than it already is.
  9. You can't just remove the "valve cover" to replace all the valves. The head has to come off.
  10. The switch from 7mm to 6mm valve stems happened around '99 - '00 so your motor should already have the 6mm valves. OEM valves are very pricey and hopefully, IF it's bent valves, it's the intakes that are bent. The exhaust valves were twice as much as the intakes (like $60 a piece) last time I checked Korruption is right, double check EVERYTHING before pulling the head.
  11. I suggested an airpump to help with crankcase ventilation a couple of years ago (check page 40 of this thread). Hope it works out. Does the pump need to operate continuously or is crankcase pressure only a problem when you are in boost? Maybe you could wire it into a boost pressure switch like this one http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=09&feature_key=Boost_Switch,parts,smart_injection
  12. Spools very fast. Easily can hit 14-15psi by 2500rpm. Definitely recommend a good EBC.
  13. Sounds like a K24 will give you what you want. I built my motor fully intending to one day put a bigger turbo on it, but so far I'm still satisfied with the K24. Might look into the billet wheel once Lucky has them available though.
  14. Nice! I own the smaller version of this one. I've used the shit out of it and it's never failed me.
  15. Got a new controller for the WMI, so I redid the gauges in the glove compartment. Still need to wire in the new gauge. Before.... After....
  16. If you could have the codes read with the Volvo System Tester (VST) you would have a better idea what's causing the problem. There are 4 specific Volvo codes that get lumped together as the generic P0410 code. Knowing the exact code would point you in the right direction.
  17. Do you have any pictures of the diode soldered into the wiring harness? Diode pointing the right way? Tapped into the correct wires? Should look like this....
  18. I doubt you will be disappointed with a better intercooler. Go for it!! For grins I logged a few pulls yesterday, and averaged about 5° above AMBIENT at the end of the pulls. For comparison I was seeing increases of 25-30° above ambient with my previous intercooler. I'd be curious also to know the temps on the hotside coming out of my turbo. I don't know how it would compare to yours, but probably safe to say my "little" K24 running at 22psi is pushing some hot air :lol:
  19. Very impressive 60-120 time! Did you get the ME7 IAT sensor calibrated correctly or are you still using the GM one? When you mention the IAT's still rise 25°, are you talking above ambient temps?
  20. Unfortunately I don't own either of these. The R wagon is very clean and still has the factory RIP kit which I had never seen before. If I had to choose though, I think I would take the T5M with only 72k miles.
  21. Just my guess, but I bet the addition of WI and a better IC will net you a VERY noticeable reduction in IAT's.
  22. 2 weeks ago.... After a quick photoshop thanks to Brian (bdimag) I liked the bumper mod, but the intercooler just looked out of place. Wasn't looking to hide it, but with a dusting of Eastwood satin radiator paint it seems to blend in better....