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Everything posted by Volvo5.0

  1. I'm a fan of the "Scandalo " bumper also. What did you use to re-fasten the cut pieces? Fiberglass/Bondo mixture like Gorilla Hair? I've got a scrap XC bumper, I might give it a try....
  2. Glad you got it all working. Getting the IAT readings accurate was definitely a challenge. I know I only have 9 gauges compared to your 12, but you need to work on the look of your "dashboard" ....
  3. Maybe need MOAR meth??? You may want to measure flow like Jardon did. He got 350cc after 1 minute using a 1mm aquamist nozzle (not sure of his pump pressure), which is about 5.5GPH. I haven't checked the flow on my DO5 nozzle, but it's rated from Devilsown at 7.07GPH @ 200psi. Your setup in theory would require more meth than mine. :unsure:
  4. That's the same pump that Devilsown uses (Aquatech DDP-5800). I'm curious to see how it works out for you as well. Seems to help my car, but my car is mild compared to yours :lol:
  5. I'd also like to know how much timing you're able to run. I might try to add a couple of degrees. I just looked at my logs and also at my timing map in TT. Looks like my logs pretty much reflect what my maps are asking for, so I'm seeing little or no timing pull with meth injection. I'm sure the 80% meth helps bump the octane some. Have you always run 80/20?
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  7. A '96 N/A could be either 4.3 or 4.4 but since you have all the airpump parts on your car then it's obviously 4.4. You can do A32 to A37, just make sure the diode is pointing the right way. Do yourself a favor and just unplug the airpump until you're satisfied with the mod. Don't rip everything out until you're sure the code is gone for good.
  8. Just a thought. With cams with that much lift, you may want to mock up the engine with clay on the pistons to verify piston to valve clearance. Use your old head gasket and head bolts, throw in the cams, install the belt, and then roll the motor over a couple times. Might be time well spent at this point.
  9. Since Aaron's hubs were a limited production I bought one in case the hub I'm currently using, My Hub, failed. In all fairness to Aaron, his hubs are actually about 1.5 times thicker than the OE hub.... So unless his steel is VERY soft, his unit should work fine as is. I know you have done alot of experimenting with cam timing, so I wonder if it's possible that the bolts are just worn out from being tightened so many times, and THEY stripped. As Ozzimark said, something seems very strange :unsure:
  10. Not saying that Loctite is unreliable, I use it all the time. It's very reliable on a mechanical fastener. Maybe I can't picture how these 2 parts of the camshaft are put together, but I would NEVER use Loctite alone to join 2 parts. Obviously when you attach the cam sensor piece and dist piece (but you're using COP, right?), then there will be a bolt holding it all together. Just think it would have been nice to know, since the accepted way to tighten the vvt hubs is to lock the cams from the rear. Hussein figured out a way to tighten the bolts using an old belt to lock the cams from turning, but at that point the damage was already done.
  11. Loctite??? Sure doesn't sound very reliable Hope they can get a replacement set to you pretty quick...
  12. In theory, doing the SAS delete should not have any affect on the evap system. The cars I have done the SAS delete on personally have not set any evap codes. YMMV :lol:
  13. I'd probably say that IAT's were probably to blame, especially with the inadequate cooling at the dyno shop. I have a couple of logs I can post later. One was on a 78* day when timing got pulled to 4.5* BTDC. The other was on a 50* day and timing never dropped below 12.5* BTDC. I'm going to install a IAT sensor just before the T-body and hook it up to an empty spot that is available on my Innovate LMA-3. I hope to get it installed soon before the ambient temps get too high, and we'll see what that tells us. I thought I read that you had a gauge that you could monitor IAT's???
  14. Good job Hussein!! It's a good feeling when hard work pays off. I'm sure you have a lot of time invested in the manifold. Post up your logs.
  15. The ready monitors are set when tests are run and passed for each system (SAS, Evap, O2 Sensor, Etc.) If the ecu never runs the evap test, then the monitors will never set. Even though the CEL might not be on, the car won't pass emissions if monitors aren't set. The reason the SAS delete works is because the ecu can still run the air pump test and it passes.
  16. You'll probably have to keep picking away at the old broken plug wire until you remove it all. Replacing the plugs and wires should take care of the misfire code. Others have said they have set an evap code after doing the SAS delete. I have 2 cars running the diode and so far no evap codes. Looking at what this mod actually does, it doesn't seem like it should set any codes for the evap system, but who knows....
  17. I think the whole VVT thing is a little intimidating for people. Actually it's pretty easy, and since Kristian is using the solid hub anyway it's even easier. Ideally when you put it together you'll want the 3 bolts centered in the slots on the gears so you have room for adjustment later, as Mark said. Your motor only has VVT on the exhaust, right? Here's the condensed version of how I did it. Obviously set the crank on TDC, lining up the mark on the crank gear with the mark on the oil pump housing. Use the tool you bought to lock the cams securely. Remove the old belt, intake cam gear, old VVT hub and gear, and replace the front cam seals. Now for the assembly part. Bolt the exhaust gear onto Aarons solid hub with the 3 bolts centered on the gear. TIGHTEN THOSE BOLTS SECURELY. Put that assembly onto the exhaust cam and leave the center 55 torx bolt slightly loose so the gear can move on the cam. Put the intake cam gear on the intake cam and leave the 3 bolts slightly loose. Make sure the timing marks are lined up...... Now put the new t-belt on along with the new tensioner. Make sure the marks are all aligned and adjust the tensioner. Remember your center bolt on the exhaust hub, and the 3 bolts on the intake gear are still loose. You've got everything timed correctly, but BEFORE you remove the lock tools from the rear of the cams, you'll need to tighten the center bolt on the exhaust solid hub and the 3 bolts on the intake gear. THEN take the cam locking tool off, rotate the motor clockwise until the marks line up again and check the adjustment. You might have to re-adjust.... As far as advancing or retarding the cams when "tuning" for power, I haven't done any of that. If I decide to take that step I'm sure I'll be the one looking for advice :lol:
  18. Yeah, if it's a '98 it will be Motronic 4.4. The computer in the middle location is the ECU.
  19. You'll quickly forget about the delays and frustrations once you get it together and start driving it :tup:
  20. Looks like you're about ready. You know the weather is looking pretty good for Thursday and Friday :D
  21. Wow, sounds like you REALLY got your money's worth out of the $1.00 mod!!! Seriously, I would say anyone considering doing this, DON'T yank everything related to the air pump until you've driven the car for awhile. Do the mod, disconnect the connector at the air pump, drive the car until you're satisfied that the codes are gone, THEN rip it all out! If you don't get the results you want, then just snip out the diode. You've only wasted a buck :D
  22. Is COP for TT in production or are you doing some kind of "beta" testing???
  23. Interesting....... The 2 cars I've done the mod to have been fine, so I don't know I'd love to see a car that set an evap code after doing the mod. I can force an evap test with the VST and can watch as the test is run. I'd be able to see what's going on.
  24. Possibly a coincidence. I can tell you that by far Evap codes account for most of the CEL's that I see :lol:
  25. SAS and Evap are two entirely different systems. Removing SAS components won't cause the car to set an Evap code.