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Everything posted by Volvo5.0

  1. You'll want to use the older style cam sensor. Like Hussein said, the cam sensor and distributor pieces have tabs that will locate them to the cams, so you don't really need the engine on TDC to install them. The groove in the cam is offset as well as the tabs on the sensor piece. Just make sure they go together properly and you're good to go....
  2. On some engines the marks are REALLY faint, but I've always been able to find them. Just sometimes I need to break out the reading glasses The marks definitely aren't cut as deep as they are on the earlier engines.
  3. Sometimes the marks are REALLY hard to see Since the gears aren't keyed to the cam in any way, it really doesn't matter. Once the cams are locked from the rear, you can install the gear/hub assy in any position, and mark them yourself for future reference. Just make sure you know "your" marks in case the factory marks re-appear :D
  4. I'm having a flashback!! My hands are still aching from polishing my manifold :(
  5. I hear you! I ended up way over budget I think modifying the cover is definitely the easiest, most cost effective way around this obstacle, and looks just fine. I was just pointing out that Daniel's option 3 would need a few extra parts. :)
  6. You would need the alt. and a/c compressor that go with the newer style bracket also. The alt. and a/c comp. mount different on the newer accessory bracket.
  7. Looking good. I guess I'm lucky I had the whole car that my engine came from so mine didn't require any modifications. Looks like you got it worked out though. Since that coolant pipe runs together with the breather pipe, and it's all insulated, I'm thinking maybe it helps to keep condensation from forming in the breather pipe. Kind of like the idea of the heater in the ptc.
  8. I looked at a couple of mount brackets that I have. Johann is correct, the '99 and '00 mount bracket will definitely work. Here is the PN-9186828
  9. I didn't have any issues with the front mount on the '00 engine, but I looked at an '01 today in the shop and it does have a different mount bracket on the engine that has the hole for the hydraulic mount shifted to the drivers side. I would say use the mount bracket from the '98, but according to Black T5M it won't bolt to the '02 engine? :unsure:
  10. I've replaced a fair share of the 240 rear cam seals It would actually be kinda nice if that seal would blow out on the whiteblock motors when the pcv gets clogged. Unfortunately these motors just start puking oil from the front seals :o
  11. I've seen it both ways. The head I'm using only had the outer cap :unsure:
  12. I don't think you'll have a problem using the 99+ pump. We use the same steering rack on a '98 S/V70 as we use on a '99-'00.
  13. The solenoid is #18 in the picture PN 1270389. The relay is PN 9442933 and is located in the relay box under the hood.
  14. If you can get your hands on the tool and the solid hub, you're good to go..... Set the motor to TDC and lock the cams with the lock tool. Remove the VVT hub. Take the gear off the VVT hub and bolt it to Aaron's solid hub, with the 3 bolts centered in the slots on the gear (allows for fine tuning the cam timing). With the cams still locked install the solid hub with the gear attached. Put the plastic cover on and line the mark on the gear with the mark on the cover. Torque the center bolt to 120 Nm. Install the t-belt. Done!
  15. Kristian, you're really going to need a way to lock the cams at TDC at the rear after you take off the cam sensor and piece that bolts to the rear of the cam. I mean taking it apart won't be a problem since you have an impact. You can just zap the 55 torx bolt off of the VVT hub.. But there is nothing locating the hub to the cam, so when it goes back together the cam needs to be at TDC and the hub needs to be tightened at TDC also. Then since the gear that bolts to the hub has 3 slotted holes, you can play around with the cam timing if you want.
  16. The later style aluminum housing is slightly wider than the early style metal housing. So when it's all put together the metal sleeve that slides inside the 2 half's of the mount, comes up a little short (maybe a 1/4"). As wide as the lip is on the poly mount that I have, I'm sure each side of it could be narrowed slightly. Either that or add a spacer to the metal sleeve so it extends fully through the mount. The metal strut from the firewall does fits nicely over the mount even though it's slightly wider.... WOW Kristian!!! That was a nasty oil leak! I'm sure that new engine will never look like that :D
  17. I saw Neu's post about the lack of choices for the newer style upper engine mounts. I was messing around after work today and it looks like if you take the "guts" out of the newer style round mount but leave the outer ring in the housing that the early style (98 and earlier) mount will fit perfectly inside....
  18. The early cam sensor should bolt on no problem.... The only modification I needed to do was enlarge the hole on the back of the cam to accept the piece that bolts on the cam sensor....
  19. The white 855 is my sons. His car is much cleaner than my S70 so I used his picture in my sig He got a new (used) engine a few weeks ago when his engine developed a rod knock The engine I'm building is going in my S70. The engine is ready, I'm just waiting on a buddy to pull the trans out of a junk car he has so I can get the flywheel I need. Didn't realize you were doing a manual swap also. Looks like you've got your work cut out for you :lol:
  20. That's a VERY familiar sight to me as well. Almost the same car
  21. WOW a month off.... I'm so jealous I've been staring at my engine for the last month, hoping soon I'll have time to install it. Sounds like a fun way to spend your vacation time....although I'm sure a cruise would have probably been cheaper Have fun!
  22. Motronic 4.4 can be tough at times to establish readiness. Volvo has a very specific procedure for establishing readiness Using that bulletin and having the Volvo System Tester (VST), readiness can be set rather quickly. Sometimes take 2 road tests.