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Posts posted by Serge
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Recently noticed something on my 4.4 ECU w/ 607_rev5b bin. When giving it throttle under load the CEL will flash, which I know is set up for knock detection (and misfires). It's inconsistent and didn't happen until just recently. Seems to happen over 3k RPM and usually not present in the upper rev range (under WOT). Otherwise car runs great and isn't tripping any CELs that stick.
What should my next step be?
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On 4/19/2020 at 2:21 PM, dirtzuk said:
what are people using for a vag-com cable now a days? Id like to start messing with my 960 m4.4 .. the link on the wiki for the cable is dead
Search for "FT232RL" on eBay. There are $10 ones that work fine.
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Ha, I literally just did both my front wheel bearings too. My front right was so bad, when I took the axle nut off the whole bearing assembly came out in pieces. Make sure you have some thread-locker for the wheel bearing bolts.
Had that happen as well. Removed the axle nut and it came apart in half. Didn't have a new one so I packed it with some synthetic grease and put it back together. Worked fine for a week actually.
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What are the other crush washers for?
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Serge, what brakes did you settle on?
Still running the Tektros, but switched pads to the Kool Stop salmon colored pads (slide right into the Tektro holder, which is a clone of the Dura-Ace holder). Much better braking Very happy with it for now. May upgrade the calipers later, though.
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From Monday's ride.
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Ehh, that's still a piece of shit Kestrel. I've owned and worked on them. Super mehhhhhh
For a couple hundred more you can get on a bike shop bicycle with a fit, real warranty, and genuine support. LBS has a Cervelo for $2k right now, full 105, and I'm sure they would come off that price.
Not too familiar with Kestrel. Are the frames bad?
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Smokin deal IMO, you can't even get a 105 bike for 1500 otd
That's a killer deal. You can get a few year old (still new, though) 105 bike for $1500 + tax. A few year old bike w/ Ultegra would probably run you closer to $1800. If I were looking for a new bike, I would get this.
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Super useful. And you don't end up beating up the cross nut with vicegrips like you normally would.
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When I was in a hit and run it took roughly 20 days to find her guilty.
But in FL apparently there's some BS that they have to wait for the other party to respond, or fail to respond in a certain time frame.
2 calls, and 2 letters later they ruled her fault.
Soon as she ran into me I got out called her a few names and took a photo of her plate.
We were in the median so obviously we had to get out of the median. Went to meet at the store across, I got there, she drove right by.
Police report, license plate, description of car, and 20 days later her insurance admitted her at fault and paid the bill.
There is a 15-day period here, too. At least that's what the PD and insurance co. told me. My situation sounds near identical to yours. I hope that rear-ending someone and fleeing from the scene of an accident is an immediate sign of guilt. Sure as heck seems like it. PD told me that what they did is a misdemeanor, which is essentially a slap on the wrist.
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Good to hear its not terrible. Also good that you are OK.
Thank you for your concern
I've been rear ended before (much harder) and it definitely takes a beating out of your neck, even at slow speeds.
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Shit, that sucks. Sorry to hear. Whats the damage?
Definitely puts a damper on an otherwise good day.
Very good imprint of their license plate on the rear bumper in the painted section. Bumper is about 2" lower than normal. Looks like the driver side quarter panel has a bit of a crease in it too.
Insurance said it should be easy to take care of (insurance wise). Police report exists already and they are on a lookout for the car.
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Got rear ended by a piece of shit that fled the scene. Got out and took a photo of them and their license plate before they fled, though. Rear ending + fleeing scene of an accident = almost immediately guilty. Cunt.
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Then a bottle of OEM coolant.
Did you snap yours off? Without a doubt an incredibly stupid design, considering that if it breaks you could lose all your coolant. After I broke mine (replacing hoses), I had to by-pass it with radiator hose and some clamps while waiting for that part.
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it all depends on the year.
Dura ace 2012 turns into Ultegra 2013 turns into 105 2014. follow?
so depending on the year, will tell you tech.
i'm in my office cleaning my CX bike and see i have the tekto's. Now they are Canty's but the shimano stuff blows these away.
no single pad as ever stood out to me. I ask for whats the best for my type of riding and set up.
Makes sense, I've read that it trickles down through the years. I'll have to keep an eye out on the year when looking at parts.
The Tektro brakes aren't bad, per se, but if I can get a noticeable improvement it's something I want to consider.
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Makes sense. How big of a difference do pads make? I've read good things about Kool Stop Salmon pads.
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My 2012 Cannondale Supersix 5 105. Despite being all 105 equipped, the brakes are Tektro. Worth changing to 105 or Ultegra brakes?
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Changed the starter motor for a brand new BOSCH one. Pretty easy to do once you remove the fan shroud assembly.
Now the starter sounds different. It does start faster, however.
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If you still have cell service, you're doing it wrong
I'm far from a heavy phone user. But I don't get the idea of turning a phone off for the sake of it unless it's like a business phone that won't stop ringing. Taking a single call, or answering an email, or browsing the web for a few minutes doesn't really take away from the experience. It's all down to self control. Don't glue your phone to your hands.
Speaking of outdoor gizmos, anyone have any experience with the SPOT products? http://www.findmespot.com
I really like the idea, but the whole service plan thing reminds me of cellphone plans from 2001. We do all this cool stuff (extra fees may apply). I want something that tracks me so when I bust my face on a rock people can find me. And their site says it isn't reliable in very dense woods. So, red wood forest dense? Or typical New England woods dense? Looks like it costs $300 total for the first year + $150/year after.
I'm going to assume that since it is satellite based, you need a fairly unobstructed view of the sky, so redwood forests are going to be its Achilles' heel.
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Replaced all my vac lines and installed my Snabb intake pipe.
Everyone has been talking about the Snabb intake pipe. Worth the monies?
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Hose with an in-line icepack? That's pretty awesome.
Only photo I could find of mine (from many years ago), the one on the right.
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yessir! I got hooked up
just got this too for my Mya Hookah
Nice! +1 on the mirrors and +1 on a Mya hookah. Pics of yours? I've had mine for a little over 8 years now and it's going strong as ever.
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300mm fixed? what will you be using that for? Doesn't seem too versatile?
In nearly all cases prime lenses will be sharper, and thus are preferred over zoom lenses. While they are slightly less versatile, they are faster (larger aperture) and sharper. A friend has the Nikon 500mm f/4 and the shots he gets out of it are Natgeo worthy.
Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!
in Performance Modifications
Posted · Edited by Serge
Using TunerPro RT?
Also, the M4.4 ECU I am using is from a LPT car, not sure if that makes a difference (I figure it doesn't since the bin is for a T5 car). Not sure why it would do this on a stock setup. Charge hoses and vac lines are all silicone. Plugs are gapped right and fairly new.