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clintonpriddle's Achievements


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  1. Thanks, but I dont think I misunderstand, I just didnt have all this information before me at the time of my original post :-) The only thing I didn't verify myself was that the ME7 sensor in the ME7 housing doesnt register any more flow than the M4.x sensor in the M4.x housing - but I trust you on that. If the ME7 housing combo did register higher flow (which I assumed due to the larger size) and could be used with the M4.4 ECU (which I wasnt sure about) I was going to try to find wiring diagrams to help me connect it all up, but now I have realised that there is no point :-) In short, I have now gone back to my old plan, i.e. to upgrade the MAF at a later date using the M4.x sensor in a larger housing.
  2. I may well end up with a 960 MAF, it is just I will do the bigger air intake (including different filter) later, and I want to plan it properly and make it all fit together well. As I said earlier, we dont have junkyards full of late model 960s here (in Australia). As such, it looks like the BMW MAF that many others are using might be a more attractive option. In short, I had a ME7 box and MAF in front of me and it looked like a good temporary upgrade, size and fitment wise. Upon further consideration, that is not the case...
  3. Oh, thanks, I was under the impression that the ME7 housing did have more flow capacity. I couldnt find a data sheet for my exact housing, but as it was substantially bigger than the m4.4 variant, and Mercuric was trying to do the same, I assumed (<- my issue) it had higher flow. I will just wait until I restructure my intake further (i.e. remove the standard box), and do it right. I dont mind spending $80 (or more), I just didnt want spend much on a temporary solution.
  4. Ah, thanks. I wasnt aware of the temp sensor issue, I was only at the point where I was trying to figure out what to do with the reverse flow (0-1v) aspect of the ME7 sensor. From earlier posts, it looks like Mercuric thought he could get the ME7 MAF sensor working, it is a shame he is not around still, he might have had something smart in mind...
  5. Yeh, thanks, I know that. I guess I am a bit of a tight ass, I was more implying that $80 is a lot of money for essentially a tube with a hole in it :-) If I can get the ME7 housing/sensor working, I will just throw it in and run with it for the time being. If I have to spend $80 on a housing, I will probably just wait and put that money towards the custom filter box/housing that I intend on making at a later stage anyway.
  6. Thanks Piet, I get that, it is just the S90 MAF housing isnt very easy to find here (Australia) and would have to be shipped from the US or Europe. The cheapest on ebay is an aftermarket one (i.e. only good for the housing) shipped for about $80. The ME7 MAFs on the other hand are readily available, I can get one for next to nothing here. I will look into it further so see about compatibility, but I was hoping if someone had already tried and failed that they would save me the trouble :-)
  7. I was reading an old post about using an ME7 filter box (e.g. from a 99+ x70) housing to provide a 3" coupling to a MAF housing. Has anyone tried using the ME7 MAF housing/sensor also? The ME7 housing doesnt seem compatible with the M44 sensor (it would be oriented sideways), so I guess you would have to take the housing/sensor as a package and change the plug on your harness.
  8. Quick wastegate question. What are you guys running for preload and in relation to what boost target? I am about to replace my turbo with a 20T (only temporarily until I get the resources to go Garrett) and with a new kinugawa actuator. I guess now that we have full control of the load maps, we should be setting the wastegate to as low as possible (while being able to reach the boost target), thus giving as much control as possible to the ECU? Or am I really missing something? have never really got my head around the interaction between wastegate pretension and load maps...
  9. To get voltage logging you need to change a byte using a hex editor, and the byte is in a different location for auto/manual binaries. Have a look here, but you basically need to find the particular byte sequence and change its value ->
  10. It is Volvo OBD scanning software. It is not important that you use just that software, I just meant any software that uses the cable to talk to a car will verify that the cable is set up correctly.
  11. If I were you, I would first check that the cable is talking with your laptop. If you have an OBD port on your car, get VOL-FCR (or something similar), just to verify that your cable/drivers are working. Personally, once I got my cable set up right, everything fell into place quite nicely. Good luck!
  12. I am using a CH430 chipset cable without any problems. I had it from an earlier project. If you are buying one new, I agree - get the recommended FTDI cable. But if you already have a CH430 chipset cable it is worth trying it - just make sure to use the CH430 drivers rather than the FTDI ones.
  13. The ECU will interpolate between adjacent cells, so no timing is being "added", instead is influenced by the next cell (7590RPM). It is some sort of weighted averaging. Not sure why it is not pulling timing there though, have you played around with your knock settings?
  14. On my windows 7 laptop, my cable suddenly started refusing to work on one of my USB ports. That port worked for anything else. I just started using another one of the ports (that wasnt quite as accessible) and that solved my problem for the time. The strange thing is, once I reinstalled windows freshly on the same laptop, that port started working again. So, I obviously had a software problem... I havent had any cables die though (although I did suspect it when the cable suddenly stopped working like it used to!). PS: I am not using the recommended cable/chipset though, so my drivers arent the same as you guys...
  15. I was about to get drilled rotors, but had several people warning of them cracking on road cars. Something to do with the many cycles of heating / cooling that a daily driver gets. Sucks about the control arm bushings. I am doing them on my wifes car at the moment (Subaru Outback), and didnt realise there was such a difference in quality when you went poly.