Stefan Mohammed

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Posts posted by Stefan Mohammed

  1. 23 hours ago, Boxman said:

    Tiny word of caution on the Ecotrons Accurate Lambda Meter - if you're looking for an actual fast GAUGE, this is not the one to get. When I installed mine, I noticed the gauge only updated once every second or so - that's basically zero fidelity while they advertise in a boasting manner with "whole measurement finished in 5ms". While this MAY be true for the analog output (don't know for sure yet), the gauge basically tells you nothing.

    I mailed Ecotrons on this, as I assumed the software wasn't allowing me to set the Gauge update rate properly, and told me "the update rate of the gauge cannot be changed and is 2Hz". Why you would throw all this sweet sweet fidelity out the window is beyond me, but apparently that's how it is:

    On my trusty old MTX-L (with relatively bad analog outputs), at least on the gauge itself the update rate is fast enough (like 25Hz or something) that i can see the AFR oscillation due to the lambda control. Tells me everything is working as it should. The ALM Gauge version is unable to display this level of fidelity on the gauge itself.

    So if you're getting an Ecotrons ALM - best don't bother with the gauge version as it doesn't tell you much. Better to split the fast analog 0-5v out and use an aftermarket gauge or something.


    Good to know! I'm planning to do an ALM LSU-ADV Board install and split the analog output between my ECU and my Auber Electronics Display which I got bundled in with my Thermocouple. All that said will the analog signal be distorted in any way if I split the signal? 

  2. On 6/22/2016 at 4:34 AM, razorx said:


    @Stefan Mohammed: Set all the load threshold lambda control values to max. Under Fuel Trims.

    Set the LTFT values to 0 and set the STFT control ranges to theri + or - max.


    That is the way to disable the WOT regulation and drive WB only. ;)

    -edit and don't forget to set al the "tps value for wot detection" to 100.

    Doesn't work :dry: I'm stumped on this one. It follows the requested AFR almost perfectly at low load. I boost leak tested the car and there are no boost leaks. As I said it works perfectly off the VE map in a regular 608_rev5b. Any other thoughts?

  3. I'm having some issues with the WBO2 Regulation. My actual AFR follows my requested AFR closely at low loads but as soon as the turbo spools up it goes very rich to the point where it sputters and no boost builds. (under 10 AFR). My injectors are properly calibrated and I have no boost leaks. I tried a regular COP converted/MAF scaled 608_rev5b bin and the car has normal AFRs and boosts fine. The proper channel for my WBO2 is selected, WBO2 regulation is switched on, I have decreased the time for lambda readiness and I have even tried running it with fuel trims switched on/off all in an effort to see why my actual AFR is not following the requested AFR under higher load scenarios. 

    I am also not able to get a knock count from the adx value VKRCOUNT. XFALMIT and FALLT both indicate timing reduction under boost (when using either the regular 608_rev5b tune or the modset with the WBO2 regulation. 

    Any thoughts? 

  4. Really sad to see this go :( This car was a huge inspiration to pretty much any custom mod that I ever did on either the S80 or the 850 (basically this car was my inspiration to stop picking up IPD bolt ons lol). I really respected the attention to detail with this build and the lengths that you went through to have great driveability. 

    I sent an email inquiring about some of the parts from the XR. Let me know if those parts are still up for grabs. 

    • Upvote 1
  5. Damn H, sorry to hear about all of this. I completely understand the point about having a reliable daily and as car guys/tinkerers we never stop growing our car collection and modifying our prized possessions. All that said, a tonne of work has gone into the X/R over the last few years. The entire clutch issue was expected based on the kind of torque you were making and the AWD and other drive components requiring service were also realistic given how hard you push the car and the age of the components. I could only imagine how pissed off and demotivated you are when the skirt fails just after your clutch swap. Considering the condition of the other parts though, you practically rebuilt the car after all, do you think it still might be worth it to part it? If the bore is good then a quick rebuild is all you need and the X/R should be pretty reliable for what it is (and it's important to remember what it is, a highly modified/very high output project car). Perhaps if you need a newer/more reliable DD then it might make sense to sell the GT500 instead (seeing as you have less of a financial and emotional investment in that) and get something to replace that (the C30 T-5M or the fiat). Nothing would stop you from using the X/R as a daily once it's running again, but you would have the newer replacement car and the X1/9 as a fall back if something does happen to the X/R down the road. 

    If you (regrettably) do choose to part the X/R or (preferably) replace the GT500, I would advise that you keep the modifications mild... when we starting raising the output too high on these things all sorts of unexpected problems lurk around the corner and then you need to re-engineer the entire car to keep it reliable (like the X/R). My .02 

  6. It might be good idea to add market for which each exact ECU was tuned as US cars had been differently equipped due to different (tighter) emissions requirements

    Great idea! I was thinking the same thing when I was compiling the list but I couldn't find (with certainty) the markets of some of the ECUs. I can inference what some ECUs came in (for example, if a web search comes up with many european based websites selling a particular ECU P/N, that I can assume that this is an ECU for the European market), but this would not be a confirmation as to which market the ECU came in. Can anyone chime in and let me know which ECU P/Ns belong to which market? I guess the main goal is to separate US market ECUs from other ECUs seeing as they would have the hardware to deal with SAS and other emissions hardware so perhaps we should focus on identifying US market ECUs firstly. 

    use the 70% throttle column. The 75% collumn doesn't work.

    Stefan, maybe this should be emphasised somewhere on the wiki as well.

    I DID emphasize it several months ago when I edited in the wiki.

    I've seen mention of the 70% TPS column for the TCV Duty Cycle Pilot Control Map mentioned in the wiki already. Nonetheless, I'm trying to better explain M4.4 boost control and PID (Really PI) controller logic as well as effective methods for regulating boost (i.e. RazorX's Excel Sheet) in the revised documentation I'm contributing to the Wiki. 

    Quick tip: for ease of use when tuning tables in TunerPro... you can have high/low value cell shading for any table in TunerPro. Make sure that 'Color Table Cells' is selected in TunerPro's preferences and then head over to XDF->View/Edit XDF Parameter Info (While the table is selected) and enable 'use low/high range'. Set the ranges as appropriate per the map you are in (e.g. I used 2.25 as the low and 40 as the high in my Ignition Map) and apply. Close and then reopen the table in question and it should now be shaded! I'm sure a few of you already know about this but I never saw anyone post about it. For me it makes a huge usability difference when working in a table especially as I'm accustomed to other tuning software (Haltech ECU manager, etc) that has this already.

    Devs, perhaps the next wide-release XDF should have this enabled by default for the Ignition/Fuel/TCV Pilot Control and Target Load Setpoint Maps (as well as alternate maps)? 

    Highlight shading.PNG


    • Upvote 4
  7. I've been trying to compile a list of all Volvo M4.4 ECUs by part number, year, model, variants and transmission types. This is what I've reached at so far. Any corrections and/or additions I should be aware about? I'm pretty sure the part numbers are correct but as far as the other information there might but a few errors, especially with some of the less common ECU p/ns that are around. I'm planning to use this info on the Wiki in the near future. (Reveal hidden content to see list, it was a bit long and I didn't want to take up unnecessary post space :)


    •    0 261 203 076 – 97 850 GLT LPT Manual 2.4T 
    •    0 261 203 077 – 97 850 GLT (N/A) / 98 SV70 GLT (N/A) 
    •    0 261 203 166 – 96 850 GLT (N/A) Automatic 2.5 20v
    •    0 261 203 167 – 96 850 GLT (N/A) Manual 2.5 20v
    •    0 261 203 927 – 96 850 T5 Automatic 2.3T
    •    0 261 203 936 – 97 850 GLT 2.4T / 98 SV70 GLT 2.4T
    •    0 261 204 293 – 97 850 (N/A) Manual 2.5 20V 
    •    0 261 204 294 – 97 850 (N/A) Automatic 2.5 20V
    •    0 261 204 295 – 98 SV70 (N/A) Manual 2.5 20V 
    •    0 261 204 296 – 98 SV70 (N/A) Automatic 2.5 20V 
    •    0 261 204 297 – 98 SV70 GLT LPT Automatic
    •    0 261 204 298 – 98 SV70 (N/A) Manual 
    •    0 261 204 299 – 98 SV70 GLT (N/A)
    •    0 261 204 305 – 97 850 AWD Manual 2.5T
    •    0 261 204 442 – 97-98 CSV70 T5 2.0T 
    •    0 261 204 443 – 97-98 CSV70 T5 2.0T
    •    0 261 204 444 – 97-98 CSV70 T5 2.0T
    •    0 261 204 446 – 97-98 CSV70 T5 2.0T
    •    0 261 204 447 – 97-98 CSV70 T5 2.0T
    •    0 261 204 448 – 97-98 CSV70 T5 Manual 2.3T 
    •    0 261 204 449 – 98 CSV70 T5 Automatic 2.3T
    •    0 261 204 450 – 98 SV70 T5 Manual 2.3T
    •    0 261 204 451 – 98 SV70 T5 Automatic 2.3T
    •    0 261 204 455 – 98 V70R Automatic 2.3T
    •    0 261 204 456 – 98 SV70 AWD LPT 2.4T
    •    0 261 204 457 – 98 SV70 AWD LPT 2.4T
    •    0 261 204 458 – 98 SV70 GLT LPT 2.4T/C70 2.4T LPT Automatic 
    •    0 261 204 459 – 98 SV70 AWD LPT 2.4T
    •    0 261 204 460 – 98 VXC70 AWD LPT 2.4T
    •    0 261 204 570 – 98 S70 GLT (N/A) 2.5 20v
    •    0 261 204 571 – 98 S70 GLT (N/A) 2.5 20v
    •    0 261 204 606 – 98 V70R AWD Automatic 2.3T
    •    0 261 204 607 – 98 CSV70 T5 Automatic 2.3T
    •    0 261 204 608 – 98 CSV70 T5 Manual 2.3T
    •    0 261 204 609 – 98 SV70 2.5T
    •    0 261 204 611 – 98 SV70R 2.3T
    •    0 261 204 610 – 98 CSV70 GLT LPT 2.4T
    •    0 261 204 612 – 98 SV70 R  2.3T 
    •    0 261 204 743 – 98 SV70 GLT (N/A) Automatic 2.4 20V
    •    0 261 204 744 – 98 S70 SE (N/A) 2.4
    •    0 261 204 765 – 98 SV70 2.5T



    • Upvote 3
  8. Damn, and here I was hoping (in some alternate reality) that maybe a full-faced AP setup might have held out to 600whp :P. I wonder how a puck style disc possibly with a more aggressive friction material would hold up? Based on most people's very positive feedback with the AP setup, I'm fairly confident that AP might have another option for us that might work for higher outputs. 


    For clutches, you can run any clutch that will fit an 87 RX7 Turbo. Just like the 850 R clutch, it is a 240mm OD but has a 23x1 spline to fit the M66 input shaft. I'd recommend a stock single mass flywheel so you don't have to dick around with a "DMF-equivalent" SMF like with the spec setup in the past.  Choose your clutch and pair it with a Sachs 707 PP. 

    ​A while back I was researching the Ford Probe clutch option paired to a machined 850 SMF and 850R pressure plate. During said research I found that several RX7 Turbo clutches had interchange part numbers with the Ford Probe disc. I was planning on doing some further research into the dimensions and suitability of the RX7 discs for our application but it seems you did that for me already!! :D

  9. The MPG display updates once per second, and could be too slow to save you from a too lean AFR. Also have that in mind.

    It would be for a quick reference, i.e. to make sure you're targeting 14.7 at cruising and 11.5-12 under load at a quick glance... this would be for the guys who have everything tuned properly already and would still like some info being displayed.

  10. I like that idea. We are tuning Volvo's who cares about MPG, Its never going to be good

    Sorry, I was tired. Just fit a gauge or even better, log the AFR.

    I already have a gauge, the Innovate Autotimer, problem is that if I'm going to a Spartan2 I'd no longer have a gauge and I don't like the aesthetics (yeah, seriously... my car is sleeper enough, I hate having a tonne of gauges cluttering the interior) of any of 14point7's gauges. If the instantaneous MPG (or something else) could be repurposed to display AFR then that would be a nice option. Having a wideband display isn't a necessity but sometimes I like having it as a quick reference just for my peace of mind. I'm sure others would agree.

    Piet, so do you think this could be done?

  11. The problem with the LC-2 is the output speed. It can't be set to instant, fastest speed is 1/12th. I used the LC-2 but sold it and bought a spartan2.

    The Spartan2 is an interesting option.

    Piet, For those of us who are running the LC-2, Spartan2 and other such gauge-less WB02 controllers, do you think it might be possible to repurpose say the instantaneous MPG display to display an AFR/lambda value? Or in a case where there is a failure condition (AFR/Lambda value out of expected range) for wideband regulation, can there be a flashing CEL or something of the sort to indicate as much?

  12. I've been driving with it a few moths now, as some others are too, it seems to be working quite good.

    It makes tuning a lot easier. Mileage has improved considerably.

    It will probably be implemented in a next software version.

    Piet, is there a complete elimination of the factory Narrowband O2 with this system? My factory narrowband is dead and I don't predict that my car will run for the next 2 months. I am hoping that I can use the WB02 signal from my Innovate LC-2 to have complete closed-loop wideband regulation. Am I correct in assuming that your software-based wideband regulation only requires a calibrated WB02 input to work properly?

    I am thinking that the ECU still expects a Narrowband O2 to be connected so even if it is not being used it will trigger a CEL. If this is the case, is there anyway to suppress a CEL from being generated with those who are using WB regulation without a narrowband sensor?

  13. Today I had a major breaktrough with my Lambda Commander.

    It started all wit a very good conversation and a suggestion from Piet:

    Use a wideband lambda sond and convert this signal to a narrowband signal with a variable lambda setpoint.

    This setpoint depends on load and RPM. A bit leaner than 1 for idling and cruising and what you want under low, medium or high load.

    For the first tests I used the MAF signal because:

    MAF is related to load * rpm

    It works. It works fine!

    The desired lambda values are reached in a fast and precise way.

    So lamba regulation all over the power range.

    This eliminates a lot of VE map calibration, Small mismatches between LPG and gas injectors become uninteresting.

    Aging of components like injectors, presure regulator of the MAF sensor becomes less disturbing under WOT.

    And last but not least less risc of detonation because of VE maps that are subobtimal.

    Tuning just becomes simpler. In fact you have a sort of wideband regulation.

    All VE map cells have been set set to 1 and the load limit for lambda regulation has been set to its max, 12.24

    The high speed of the simulated narrowband signal is no problem for the ECU.

    What is essential is to give a reference voltage on the lambda minus input of the ECU and make sure the low signal is close to 0.1V and the high signal is close to 0.9V above reference.

    0V and 1V will not do!

    Holiday is coming soon. Detailed log results will follow in a week or three.

    -edit- Now I use a humble PIC from the 16F series. If a have time I will play with a heavier PIC with USB support and the storage to work with larger tables.

    Sorry to dig this back up but I've been scrolling through the thread and haven't found too many updates on the AFR Master project.... razorx do you have any more updates? I'm highly interested in this mod. I understand that it seems to be working well for you but do you have a finalized version of the hardware? I'd like to implement this on my daily driven 850 ASAP :)

  14. Having some big problems socketing my M44s. I socketed 2x PLCC32 sockets on both my 850's M44 and my friend's V70 M44... the ECUs were working perfectly before and as far as I could tell the sockets were laid down in the correct orientation and soldered correctly. I checked continuity across the socket and connected traces on the both boards and they both seem to be socketed well. Yet, neither my Ostrich or the stock flash EPROMs work in either ECU... for long at least. The cars would occaisonally start and then shut off with the fan coming on intermittently with a bunch of relays clicking off. I removed the stock flash EPROMs from both boards using a hot air gun and with aluminum foil insulating the surrounding area of the board. I oven reflowed the V70's M44 and the same issue is happening. I'm getting stumped now and I need a socketed M44 for my 850 which is getting a 20G and already has a BMW 3.25" MAF & Red Injectors. Any advice?

    I'm looking for a socketed M44 if anyone has one to sell as well... PM if you have one.

  15. You need an adaptor cable from Moates in addition the Ostrich,


    and the DIP/PLCC32 adaptor that Simply Volvo listed about 80 pages back...... (and the DIP32 socket)


    MUCH easier to tune on the fly. I can't imagine refining a tune with constant reflashing without the car running/driving.

    Definitely agree with that, hence the reason why I love having the Haltech on the S80. Since the 850 is the DD flashing ME4.4 in the car (vs. on the bench) would suffice.. would love to get an Ostrich to make tuning easier but then again I'm being pretty cheap with the 850 :P

  16. If you use a good battery charger, you can just feed b36 with battery power as well. Also 6A is MORE then enough. While flashing the ECU takes less than 500 mA (I believe around 330 mA). I'm not sure if it's healthy to feed b36 a different voltage than the rest, and I think the whole ECU needs 13,5v to be able to flash.

    Ideally I'd like to flash the ECU in the car once I could supply it with sufficient power so I'm looking for other options than a battery charger. If all else fails then the battery charger seems like a good backup. Would 6A be sufficient to feed the entire ECU (A12, A26, A27) @ 15v?

    I found that flashing the ECU on the car a PITA, some times it would take 3 or4 attemps to flash the ECU.

    flashing the ECU out of the car is alot easier

    Using the ostrich is so easy it`s unreal :)

    It would be easier if I could get the ECU to be flashed in the car vs. on the bench once I could get an appropriate mobile power source. If all else fails then I guess the bench is a good backup. Thanks!