FrankenMoose

First parts off my Frankenmoose part out are the ABM Headlights. I picked them up from IPD a few years ago, and immediately installed XPEL Film on them. The access doors for the low beams are missing (removed to let the cooling fins for the LED Bulbs (long gone) breath, and promptly lost). There's a hole in the High beam access door for the Driver's side, for HID Ballasts to feed though (also gone); the Pass side door is lost. The access doors are easily replaced with factory ones. There are standard Sylvania bulbs in both high and low beam locations now. There are amber parking lights installed in the area below the high beam,; they match the turning/running bulbs. All mounting tabs are intact and mounting screws are included. Looking to get $200 +shipping for the set.

First parts off my Frankenmoose part out are the ABM Headlights. I picked them up from IPD a few years ago, and immediately installed XPEL Film on them. The access doors for the low beams are missing (removed to let the cooling fins for the LED Bulbs (long gone) breath, and promptly lost). There's a hole in the High beam access door for the Driver's side, for HID Ballasts to feed though (also gone); the Pass side door is lost. The access doors are easily replaced with factory ones. There are standard Sylvania bulbs in both high and low beam locations now. There are amber parking lights installed in the area below the high beam,; they match the turning/running bulbs. All mounting tabs are intact and mounting screws are included. Looking to get $200 +shipping for the set.

Well, it's come to this: After a short time for sale, and a shorter time frame to have it gone; I have realized that its not going to happen in time. With that said, its time for a... PART OUT!!!! I'm taking the car for one last hoorah this weekend to PNW WagonFest. The Dip has been removed from *most* if the car (still on the bumpers and side door trim), and the rear seat is back in the car. If it does not catch someones attention and get herself gone, she's going to have all the good parts removed, cataloged, and processed for shipping to the new owners, whoever they may be. I'll setup for sale posts for each system and they are defined: like Engine with port matched intake manifold; Transmission with Quafe LSD, cables, shifter, and pass axle, possibly the Bevel Gear if waned; Big Brake mounting kit and stainless steel lines (I may be keeping the Porsche Big Reds to put on my Audi allroad); etc. I'll try to get as much off the car in the next 3-4 weeks before the carcass is sold off. Then, the only thing I will try to replace is factory suspension parts and wheels to replace the Ohlins/IPD/TME setup so that the car can be rolled onto a flatbed when it comes time to get it gone. We'll see how WagonFest goes, but I'm pretty sure it will come to a part out.

Thanks, if I had the time, I'd wait it out and sell it as a built car. But, I am running out of time to get her gone; so a possible part out it could be...

So, last weekend I took the car down to IPD for the annual garage sale and car show, hoping to drum up some interest in the car. But as usual, for me anyway, I have some trouble getting there: On the way down I lost the Clutch, like completely. I went to downshift from 6th when we encountered traffic and BAM the clutch pedal when straight tot he floor. I had to try to bring it back up with my foot by getting around the pedal arm and pulling. Once it was back up, I tried pumping it to get anything, but no go. I did get it down as far as 4th by rev matching, then pulled over at a gas station to try to figure out what happened. Pop'ed the hood, looked around at the clutch line... no leaks, and the line looked fine. There was however some gear oil coming out of the top of the M66. I think this was coincidental however, and it was related to my overfilling the trans with gear oil when I replace the passenger side seal and bevel collar when they were leaking about a year and a half ago. The car has not been driven for long periods of time (1.5hrs +) to get the trams hot enough to expel the extra fluid since it was put in (at least that is my theory). Anyway, we stood around the car for about 10 minutes wondering what the F was the problem. I can't remember who decided to get in the car and try to see if there was a hole in the line by pumping the clutch, but someone did. And it was back... Full use. Like it had never happened. We monitored the lines while depressing the clutch to see if there was to much flex or any issues; and there was movement and some minor flex in the rubber parts, but not leaks. So, we decided to continue on to Portland, but carefully. Here's what I found out: If I drove at excess of 70mph, I would start to loose the clutch, up to half of the stroke did nothing, with the clutch engaging almost at the floor. BUT.. if I drove at 65mph, the clutch was fine. No play and full use. I figure it is one of two things: Either there is air in the 1/8th of the line that runs from the bleed valve to the Slave Clutch (which is hard to bleed out, since it is after the bleed valve), or it is a faulty Slave Clutch. I drove it back to Seattle at a modest 65mph most of the way, and stopping a few times to rest. Now I'm going to try to bleed the clutch line again to see if that solves the issue. If not, it's a tear down to get to that Slave. JOY. And, the gear oil pouring out the trans is all over the back bumper and tailgate. It's deep in the Dip and will not come out. So, it looks like the Plasti-Dip is coming off as well... ('cause it looks like ASS back there...) Also, on a side note: I really didn't push that the car was for sale while at IPD since it was having issues. I do not sell cars that have issues. But, after talking over the lack of interest in the car as a whole, I am now milling over a possible part out of the car. Maybe selling off the good bits and systems, or Kits to install in others. In fact, I think the statement "People don't want to buy built Volvos. They want to buy stock Volvos and build them themselves." was said by a few people that weekend. Only pic I took at IPD

I'll see what I can do. Most of the cable is in the factory sheathing, so shots of the battery side is all I may be able to get.

Alright, found the coolant leak! The drain return line was leaking from the turbo banjo bolt. Gave it a good tightening and took a look around to make sure that was the only place it was leaking while I was down there. So, after three weeks of it being parked because I was afraid it would blow a hose or something while I was driving around turned out to be a bit... overprotective. But, that's how I roll: Leaking oil, PHHHTT whatever. Leaking coolant, PARKTHATBIATCH!

It's dipped. About 5 layer of Gunmetal, and 3 layer of a Peal/Black combo. It's easy to wash actually: I use a soap I got from DYC and wash it just like you would a normal painted car. Then, after it's dry, I use a Dip treatment that makes it less rubbery feeling (also from DYC). It's holding up ok, there are a few scratches and bubbles here and there (and lots of overspray in places), but it looks good from 10 feet away; which is what I was going for anyway. I spend last weekend replacing the last bit of factory Positive power wire in the car. The bit that goes from the battery to the Main Fuse box by the Brake Booster. The line that ran to the starter was replaced when the engine was out. But, I didn't replace this one because it looked fine at the time. But, over time the lines started to corrode, which cased the battery terminals to also corrode. I replaced the (4) 12ga lines with (2) 8ga simply because my aftermarket battery terminals have 2 8ga openings and I was tired of seeing 2 12ga shoved into each one. A shot of the old lines:

Well, gave her a wash and took her to the XXX Swedish Drive-In last weekend to visit with some friends. As usual, I didn't take a lot of pics, but I did take some:

Car still has some minor oil leaks I need to track down. I received a violation notice from the company that manages my buildings parking garage. They sited that it is leaking and that I need to take care of it. And, I'm like: No Shit! Why do you think I always try to park in the same spot! So I don't leave little pools of oil all over the damn place! They also sited me for working on my car in the garage, which is apparently against they rules... just can't win... need a private garage, or to move into a house with one.

I replaced the Directed Electronics Alarm with the Viper Version today. The new version allows for Bluetooth interaction via an app. All the wiring was the same, just had to add the updated brain and install the BT module. The car has been driving better, and no more coolant leaks from poorly installed hose clamps. Also, while replacing the starter, I cleaned up and tightened the oil pressure tree, the factory pressure sensor and the aftermarket one. I had not realized how much this was an oil leak point until I tore down this side of the engine. Mostly the leak was due to me using the wrong sealant tape. At the time, I just used what I had; but it turned out to harden up with oil exposure, which made for a poor sealant. Instead, I bought some sealing paste that should do the trick.

Blast pattern... And the culprit. Repositioned the hose on the barb and replaced the hose clamp leading to the banjo bolt. Drove it around to test with dry results. Not really the clamps fault, as you can see, it was not installed properly. I replaced it with a screw type as I do not have the proper tool to crimp the clamp, plus I couldn't get it in there if I did.

Good stuff. I'll more that likely go this route if it turns out that the leak is coming from the banjo bolt area as I suspect. And, I'd like to see that DIY; I'm not in a hurry to replace the fuel pump, I just want to get it done to improve power. The lack of pressure at the fuel rail and the use of 465cc injectors instead of the 650cc the tune is set for, is causing the engine to loose power above 3.5-4k RPM. Simply put, you can hear and feel it choking from lack of fuel. Like, it's running strong and wants to pull hard, then you hit 4k, and it just chokes until you shift and drop in RPMs, then it's all "let's do this!" again.

Nice, I was going to check underneath before I cut, so this it great info to know what direction to look. Thanks Hussein. It does get pretty cold here in the Seattle area, but not like freezing for days cold. I'll take a look in there tomorrow and locate where exactly it's coming from; cause burning off any amount of Evans Waterless is annoying, and can get expensive (and smells really funky too).

Update: Intake Manifold back in, crush washers on the banjo bolt and all; Fuel rail, Throttle body, etc. I did not install the 650cc injectors simply because I didn't install the fuel pump yet. Since it's a 2000, there is no access to the pump from the top side. I'm trying to figure out if I do the hard thing of dropping the tank/sub-frame and access it that way... Or the lazy thing of cutting in an access hole where the previous models had one, and replacing it from there (hint: it's probably going to be the lazy option). Anyone done this? advice would be welcome. Drove it around today and had a blast. After not driving it for 5 or so weeks, I forget just how fun this thing is to drive... now if only I can get all the crap ass Prius drivers out of the damn fastlane... When I slowed down at a light, there was a bit of coolant "smoke" coming out from under the hood. So, I pulled over and took a look and noticed a large coolant splash just to the passenger side of the intake manifold. Looking around, it looks like the coolant line that runs to the banjo bolt is letting some coolant by under high pressure (man, I hate that thing). I'll reassess and figure out what's going on and fix it the weekend, and plan out fuel pump situation. After this latest leak is fixed, I'll have to deep clean the engine bay.