FrankenMoose

Volvo V70R

Yep. Found a carcass to stick all the good stuff from my old V70R into/onto. The body is straight. The paint is 9/10, the clear is pealing in a few spots, but the paint is good. Nothing that can't be fixed. I'm going to treat this as the built thread so I'll have a place to track progress. I've found that if I don't have a build thread, I get a bit side tracked with the mods. A List of things I plan to do: 1 - Change the "black with dark grey inserts" seat and trim with the 'black and light grey inserts" from the old car so that the center console, shifter boot and steering wheel will match. On that note, all the current seats will be for sale soon. 2 - Also change out the upper trim to grey, since the black upper trim makes the car feel small IMO 3 - Install the larger fuel pump that I bought for the old car so that this one will not suffer from low fuel pressure above 4K RPM 4 - Install the Big Brake kit with the 330mm High Carbon disks in the front (which have quite the coating of rust on them from sitting), a new set of R rears calipers for the rear, and steel braided lines all around. 5 - Repair the one rear Ohlins shock that was damaged when removing them from the old car; install the set, along with the strut brace 6 - New hood liner to evict the rodents and their damage 7 - Deep clean the interior 8 - Install the Cat back system from the old car and get a new down pipe, since I sold the old one 9 - Polish up the headlights, or find a set of Jewels. not doing the AMBs again. Sold the old set 10 - Get the paint tended to, and do some... selective vinyl wrapping. Gotta make it mine, you know... 11 - Find and stop the oil leak on the new block. Not sure where it was coming from, but It just can't happen again 12 - Figure out the issue with the VVT. Used to get errors under hard acceleration from the VVT. Would like that to stop 13 - Confident that the M66C leak from the pass side was fixed by adding in a o-ring that was forgotten by the re-builders during assembly. The Trans did, however, boil over during the last trip to IPD. I'm hoping that was due to over filling, but I might flush and refill just to make sure 14 - Since it will not be a work car, Some subs in the back and a full update tot the audio system 15 - Install the old alarm to add security and remote start; not sure if I'll install the window modules, but I really like one touch up and down windows... 16 - The old Ronal R39 Ferris 18x8 are still hanging around. They will probably get refreshed and installed 17 - New fog lights. Old are cracked. Also install the STI lip, 'cause the front end looks naked without it 18 - Now wing on the car, so my Silver one will do. If I have to repaint the bumpers (they are pretty jacked up), I'll have the wing color matched as well 19 - Oil pressure gauge with Boost installed in custom pod below ashtray 20 - Meth Injection installed as well, with guage in pod 21 - New engine and trans with rebuilt bevel gear and correct passenger side axle installed 22 - Decide whether to refine the ARD Platinum Tune for better performance, or get a new tune 23 - Replace the windshield Probably more to come as I dig into the car, but this is a good place to start I'll add the car in the Garage and post pics there, but here's a few from the first session:

Ladies and Gentleman... The Frankenstein of Moose has returned with a new project.

Finally! 27"x3 Curved Samsung Monitors!

Yup, It's the 1000ca version not the 800cca; so I paid $150 out the door. I haven't purchased a OEM battery in like 20 years. But, due to all the computers and electrical needs of this car, its the really the best battery on the market. This, or the Interstate Battery version, which costs more currently.

60lbs of lead and acid. The V12 in the CL600 needs mass quantities...

Am I using this thread right?

I've been thinking about this doing something about this in the back of my mind; I hate how far my clutch depresses. What did you come up with?

Man, so sorry to here about this. Part of the reason I went with Wiseco pistons is because of your build. But, alas, everything ends. It looks to me like when your piston was on the down stroke, it was extending downward enough for the rod to come in contact with the skirt. That would explain the slight bend in the skirt, and the stress cracks/fractures. i.e: The skirt was being bent out ever so slightly from the inside by impacting the rod; then, probably bent back into position by the bore on the upstroke. Do this enough times, and BAM stress cracks. Are there any signs of contact on the rods? Also, I don't remember, is this a B5244T3 block? If not, did you also use the crank from a B5244T3 along with the Piston/Rod setup from it? I only ask because the B5244T3 crank as a 92mm circumference, as apposed to the 90mm of the B5234T3. This allows the rod to be in a difference place when rotating than on the 90mm. It is a small difference, but enough to allow for clearance. Just a thought...

Sure looks better, but also emphasis the need for moar low on that Saffy

I do not currently have any watches, as I really do not like having things on my wrist. But, I am thinking of trying to break this aversion with purchasing a Slow Watch; specifically the Slow Jo 06 38mm style. Anyone have any experience with these? Are they worth the price? https://www.slow-watches.com/the-store/slow-jo-38mm?

A set of Brabus Monoblock IV for $150. Should look real nice after refurb.

Tech Day with MBCA, Seattle Chapter. Left with a long list of what it needs, and in what order to do it in.

I've got a set of them too, work horse and impractical: