Man, so sorry to here about this. Part of the reason I went with Wiseco pistons is because of your build. But, alas, everything ends. It looks to me like when your piston was on the down stroke, it was extending downward enough for the rod to come in contact with the skirt. That would explain the slight bend in the skirt, and the stress cracks/fractures. i.e: The skirt was being bent out ever so slightly from the inside by impacting the rod; then, probably bent back into position by the bore on the upstroke. Do this enough times, and BAM stress cracks. Are there any signs of contact on the rods? Also, I don't remember, is this a B5244T3 block? If not, did you also use the crank from a B5244T3 along with the Piston/Rod setup from it? I only ask because the B5244T3 crank as a 92mm circumference, as apposed to the 90mm of the B5234T3. This allows the rod to be in a difference place when rotating than on the 90mm. It is a small difference, but enough to allow for clearance. Just a thought...
The XeMODeX ETM is working great. I've been concentrating on the CL600 for the past few weeks, so nothing has been done other than install the ETM and let the car sit for a month and a half. Today though, I services the A/C system. I replaced the Receiver/Drier as it sat, uncapped, for the entire year the car was down. A new one from FCP Euro was only $40, so it seemed easier than servicing the old one. After that was done, I added compressor oil, and charged the system up. Easy as pie, and BLAM, Cold area air. Since I haven't been driving it much, I've been wondering why I have it. I've been using the wife's car (since it had A/C), and the CL for fun and car shows. But, then I drove the Volvo around for a bit today, and remembered why I built it. The best part i of driving it is when you get on it a little, which wakes up the exhaust note a bit, then shut it down for a red light, and getting enough sneeze to catch the attention of a pedestrian; then the look of confusion on said pedestrian's face when they turn to see a Volvo sitting at the light. That look is usually followed by a look of respect and a head nod (and every once in a awhile, the confusion look stays as they puzzle it out). As much as I like driving the CL around, I mostly get looks that say "I bet that guy is a dick." from most people. It's nice to get the "What the hell... hmm, not bad." look every once in awhile. I'm sure the looks will improve when the CL get bagged, and VIP'd out, but until then it's just sends out a bunch of "Opulence... I has it" vibes.
XeModeX ETM installed, and the car is running great. No more codes, sputtering, limp home mode, horrible idle, etc. Let's hope that issue is done. The car has been throwing codes related to the VVT in the past few months. I've been ignoring it as the VVT really is not that important. I found that the stock wiring leading tot he VVT, just above the #2 coil pack, was burned pretty bad under the factory split loom and tape. This issue is related to the previous posting about the "B" Camshaft being to advanced. The code comes back as camshaft position sensor, but is actually an VVT Error. I cut out the bad section and soldered in some new lines. Hopefully that was the extent of the wiring damage. I also fixed all the factory split loom that had degraded to the point where only the areas where tape had been was left. And, for the first time since the engine was installed the coil cover and timing belt cover are actually screwed down lol. After this, I went looking for the problem with the vacuum lines that the Meth controller uses. The tee on the vacuum line was so degraded it disintegrated in my hand when I touched it. It has only been installed for a few months. So, I need to replace that tee with a better one tomorrow in order to continue. I'm finally going to have the AC serviced as well. It's been empty since the rebuilt and I haven't had a reason to have it filled until now.
Finally broke down and bought a XeMODeX rebuilt ETM. It should be here in a day or two. Ordered the pre-programmed version, provided my VIN, and am just hoping this the the last issue for ahwile, I really need to get miles into this engine (only at 1300 since rebuild) so I can get it on a Dyno to see if it was all worth the cost.
I'm not sure... I will be modifying the storage bottle a bit due to leaking. But, as far as the injector goes, it's in the ideal place according to the instructions. There are suggestions to install a ETM spacer kit, kind of like a NOS plate, for the injector. This would put it after the ETM so that it does not flood the throttle body on its way past. The real issue seems to be the error in boost reading. The controller is not showing vacuum, and has not since the incident. I think it may need re-calibration. If it is not properly set, it could run the pump at 100%, which should never happen. Once i get this ETM issue solved once and for all, I'll start concentrating on the Meth.
Aaaannnddd... ETS Fail! On the way to IPD, the ETS light came on and the car went into limp home mode. It may not be totally the rebuilt throttle body's fault though; since the Methanol controller saw fit to dump 1 gallon of meth through the engine in less than 60 miles. The controller is in default now, since the tank is empty, so it will have to be inspected before I replace the ETB. The caravan I was with were very supportive and stayed with me until we found a place to leave the car for the night local to were if broke down. I then continued on to IPD as a passenger in Steve's Saffy. Had a great time at IPD, though I spent the whole time wishing my car was there. Next day, Gregg gave me a ride back to the car. When I got there, I fired it up just for giggles (on Gregg's suggestion). And, It did start up, but ran very rough. But, instead of almost choking itself to death after the first few minutes like ETS issues do, it stabilized and idled well enough for me to think I could get it home. So I did just that; drove it home very slowly. Never went over 3 grand, and tried to stay under 60mph. It coughed a few times, and I though it would go into limp home mode again; but it made it the whole 60 miles back. What I've learned: Rebuilding the original throttle body may be a waste of time and money. I think it will be best to buy a completely remanufactured one from XeMODeX now. It may be expensive, but from the testimonies I heard at IPD, it's worth it. Placed an Order for one this morning in fact. I knew the throttle body issue was the 2000's Achilles heal when I bought it; but I did it anyway, knowing I'd be gambling with the "not if but when" timeline. Still love the 2k though.
Threw it all back together last night so I could drive it to a wrenching party at Phil's. Failed to attach the ground, so the car died when I got there; and I apparently didn't seat the Down pipe properly, as it had a loud leak (total #ricerlife rollin). Kinda what you get for trying to get it drive-able at 1am... A bit surprised that I hooked all the vacuum lines up properly thou... Fixed the ground strap there, going to fix the down pipe tomorrow. Also took a bit of time to re-wrap the vinyl around the window on the new to me rear pass. door. Now it looks proper.
I'll keep that in mind if I need to replace the Snabb again. I had already bought the replacement and installed it yesterday. The turbo is back in as well. Well, at least it's mounted. Picking up some crush washers today to finish that part of the job. I am also replacing the rear camshaft seal, since it is leaking a bit. And, looking into the VVT related issues at while I'm there.
I removed the glass from My door (with power), then removed the door. I then installed the 'new' door and removed the glass from it (with power), then replaced my glass into the new door. I probably can be done without power, but it makes it so much easier. I noticed that for the past few weeks there has been an exhaust leak that has been getting noticeably worse every time I drove the car. I checked the downpipe connection, the turbo-to-exhaust; all were tight and showing no sign of a leak. I figured it was most likely coming from the manifold area. So, I finally had the time today to do something about it. I disconnected the down-pipe, then removed the intake, turbo and exhaust manifold. Inspection of the gasket revealed that both the #1 and #5 ports had blown though the Snabb gasket; but, its not the gasket's fault. It looks like I damaged the gasket when installing it (there were obvious folds in the gasket at the #1 port where it had been misaligned when installing, and #5 was just missing a small section, about 1/2"). A few of the manifold bolts were in bad shape, so I am going to buy some replacements and install a new Snabb gasket and re-install everything mid week sometime.