FrankenMoose

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About FrankenMoose

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  • Birthday April 29

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Crew
    NWC

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  1. I can second this. My 2000 VR was doing the same thing just after I bought it. I had the OE pump replaced under warranty and it cleared up instantly.
  2. I replaced the Directed Electronics Alarm with the Viper Version today. The new version allows for Bluetooth interaction via an app. All the wiring was the same, just had to add the updated brain and install the BT module. The car has been driving better, and no more coolant leaks from poorly installed hose clamps. Also, while replacing the starter, I cleaned up and tightened the oil pressure tree, the factory pressure sensor and the aftermarket one. I had not realized how much this was an oil leak point until I tore down this side of the engine. Mostly the leak was due to me using the wrong sealant tape. At the time, I just used what I had; but it turned out to harden up with oil exposure, which made for a poor sealant. Instead, I bought some sealing paste that should do the trick.
  3. Blast pattern... And the culprit. Repositioned the hose on the barb and replaced the hose clamp leading to the banjo bolt. Drove it around to test with dry results. Not really the clamps fault, as you can see, it was not installed properly. I replaced it with a screw type as I do not have the proper tool to crimp the clamp, plus I couldn't get it in there if I did.
  4. Good stuff. I'll more that likely go this route if it turns out that the leak is coming from the banjo bolt area as I suspect. And, I'd like to see that DIY; I'm not in a hurry to replace the fuel pump, I just want to get it done to improve power. The lack of pressure at the fuel rail and the use of 465cc injectors instead of the 650cc the tune is set for, is causing the engine to loose power above 3.5-4k RPM. Simply put, you can hear and feel it choking from lack of fuel. Like, it's running strong and wants to pull hard, then you hit 4k, and it just chokes until you shift and drop in RPMs, then it's all "let's do this!" again.
  5. Nice, I was going to check underneath before I cut, so this it great info to know what direction to look. Thanks Hussein. It does get pretty cold here in the Seattle area, but not like freezing for days cold. I'll take a look in there tomorrow and locate where exactly it's coming from; cause burning off any amount of Evans Waterless is annoying, and can get expensive (and smells really funky too).
  6. Update: Intake Manifold back in, crush washers on the banjo bolt and all; Fuel rail, Throttle body, etc. I did not install the 650cc injectors simply because I didn't install the fuel pump yet. Since it's a 2000, there is no access to the pump from the top side. I'm trying to figure out if I do the hard thing of dropping the tank/sub-frame and access it that way... Or the lazy thing of cutting in an access hole where the previous models had one, and replacing it from there (hint: it's probably going to be the lazy option). Anyone done this? advice would be welcome. Drove it around today and had a blast. After not driving it for 5 or so weeks, I forget just how fun this thing is to drive... now if only I can get all the crap ass Prius drivers out of the damn fastlane... When I slowed down at a light, there was a bit of coolant "smoke" coming out from under the hood. So, I pulled over and took a look and noticed a large coolant splash just to the passenger side of the intake manifold. Looking around, it looks like the coolant line that runs to the banjo bolt is letting some coolant by under high pressure (man, I hate that thing). I'll reassess and figure out what's going on and fix it the weekend, and plan out fuel pump situation. After this latest leak is fixed, I'll have to deep clean the engine bay.
  7. Some work today: Got the block all cleaned up; new starter installed; PVC back in; oil pressure sensors, both factory and aftermarket, back in; Knock sensors reattached. Still to go: Intake manifold; 650cc injectors; High flow fuel pump; Fuel rail; Throttle body; Corroded battery terminal and cables replaced. Had to stop today due to lack of crush washers. I hate that damn banjo bolt on the bottom of the intake manifold. I left a crush washer off of it one before and it leaked oil all over the throttle body, and everything around it. Not that big of a deal though, the battery replacement terminals are back ordered, so final reassembly it delayed anyway.
  8. I hate you all... All I have is parking spots in a parking garage. I have to get out of this High Rise...
  9. So, since my other build thread was archived... I'll start another. Here's a link to the old one, cause I'm just going to keep going: 00 V70R-B5244T3 w M66C Anyway, a few days ago, the VR would not start. All the normal things were happening when I turned the key: dash lights come on, fuel pump primes, etc. But, when you go to crank the starter... only the sound of the solenoid clicking. I decided it was the starter after checking that the start signal was actually getting to the starter. Ordered and new one; it arrives tomorrow. In prep for the new starter, I decided to do the tear down today. I pulled the intake pipes, airbox, aux fan, IC charge pipe, all to access the starter. Once I removed the starter, I noticed a shitload of oil all over the block. After inspecting further, I realized the PVC was the problem. Damn thing dumping oil all over my fresh block. So, i took the intake Manifold off as well, to get access tot eh PVC and clean the block. Now that I have basically torn down the intake side of the block, I'm starting to think of other things I can do while I'm in there; like, why put the 465cc injectors back in when I can try the 650cc again. But, I need to upgrade the fuel pump, as the stock cannot provide the PSI for the 650cc's. So, now a AEM In-tank pump is on order. Also, the Oil Pressure sensor has been reporting low pressure at idle; So, I'm going to reseal the 4-way block. And lastly, the battery terminal is corroding again... So, now new terminals are on order and fresh 4ga starter line, and the 8ga lines to the fuse box... Now to inspect the PVC and figure out if it's a defective part (it was installed new with the rebuilt engine), or if it was miss-installed (probably this).
  10. Finally! 27"x3 Curved Samsung Monitors!
  11. Yup, It's the 1000ca version not the 800cca; so I paid $150 out the door. I haven't purchased a OEM battery in like 20 years. But, due to all the computers and electrical needs of this car, its the really the best battery on the market. This, or the Interstate Battery version, which costs more currently.
  12. 60lbs of lead and acid. The V12 in the CL600 needs mass quantities...
  13. Am I using this thread right?
  14. I've been thinking about this doing something about this in the back of my mind; I hate how far my clutch depresses. What did you come up with?
  15. Man, so sorry to here about this. Part of the reason I went with Wiseco pistons is because of your build. But, alas, everything ends. It looks to me like when your piston was on the down stroke, it was extending downward enough for the rod to come in contact with the skirt. That would explain the slight bend in the skirt, and the stress cracks/fractures. i.e: The skirt was being bent out ever so slightly from the inside by impacting the rod; then, probably bent back into position by the bore on the upstroke. Do this enough times, and BAM stress cracks. Are there any signs of contact on the rods? Also, I don't remember, is this a B5244T3 block? If not, did you also use the crank from a B5244T3 along with the Piston/Rod setup from it? I only ask because the B5244T3 crank as a 92mm circumference, as apposed to the 90mm of the B5234T3. This allows the rod to be in a difference place when rotating than on the 90mm. It is a small difference, but enough to allow for clearance. Just a thought...