FrankenMoose

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FrankenMoose last won the day on January 9 2015

FrankenMoose had the most liked content!

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About FrankenMoose

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    Level 1 Member
  • Birthday April 29

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    Seattle, WA
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    NWC

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  1. Thanks guys. I'm sad to see it go as well. But it's time.
  2. Hey Guys, So, it's time for me to part with my 2000 V70R 6 speed manual swap just in time for someone to have a new ride at IPD, which this car had never been too btw. FrankenMoose is on the block: Link to the CL add: 2000 V70R I need her gone quickly as the next project is on deck and ready for me to take possession. Jason.
  3. I'll see what I can do. Most of the cable is in the factory sheathing, so shots of the battery side is all I may be able to get.
  4. Alright, found the coolant leak! The drain return line was leaking from the turbo banjo bolt. Gave it a good tightening and took a look around to make sure that was the only place it was leaking while I was down there. So, after three weeks of it being parked because I was afraid it would blow a hose or something while I was driving around turned out to be a bit... overprotective. But, that's how I roll: Leaking oil, PHHHTT whatever. Leaking coolant, PARKTHATBIATCH!
  5. It's dipped. About 5 layer of Gunmetal, and 3 layer of a Peal/Black combo. It's easy to wash actually: I use a soap I got from DYC and wash it just like you would a normal painted car. Then, after it's dry, I use a Dip treatment that makes it less rubbery feeling (also from DYC). It's holding up ok, there are a few scratches and bubbles here and there (and lots of overspray in places), but it looks good from 10 feet away; which is what I was going for anyway. I spend last weekend replacing the last bit of factory Positive power wire in the car. The bit that goes from the battery to the Main Fuse box by the Brake Booster. The line that ran to the starter was replaced when the engine was out. But, I didn't replace this one because it looked fine at the time. But, over time the lines started to corrode, which cased the battery terminals to also corrode. I replaced the (4) 12ga lines with (2) 8ga simply because my aftermarket battery terminals have 2 8ga openings and I was tired of seeing 2 12ga shoved into each one. A shot of the old lines:
  6. Well, gave her a wash and took her to the XXX Swedish Drive-In last weekend to visit with some friends. As usual, I didn't take a lot of pics, but I did take some:
  7. Car still has some minor oil leaks I need to track down. I received a violation notice from the company that manages my buildings parking garage. They sited that it is leaking and that I need to take care of it. And, I'm like: No Shit! Why do you think I always try to park in the same spot! So I don't leave little pools of oil all over the damn place! They also sited me for working on my car in the garage, which is apparently against they rules... just can't win... need a private garage, or to move into a house with one.
  8. I replaced the Directed Electronics Alarm with the Viper Version today. The new version allows for Bluetooth interaction via an app. All the wiring was the same, just had to add the updated brain and install the BT module. The car has been driving better, and no more coolant leaks from poorly installed hose clamps. Also, while replacing the starter, I cleaned up and tightened the oil pressure tree, the factory pressure sensor and the aftermarket one. I had not realized how much this was an oil leak point until I tore down this side of the engine. Mostly the leak was due to me using the wrong sealant tape. At the time, I just used what I had; but it turned out to harden up with oil exposure, which made for a poor sealant. Instead, I bought some sealing paste that should do the trick.
  9. Blast pattern... And the culprit. Repositioned the hose on the barb and replaced the hose clamp leading to the banjo bolt. Drove it around to test with dry results. Not really the clamps fault, as you can see, it was not installed properly. I replaced it with a screw type as I do not have the proper tool to crimp the clamp, plus I couldn't get it in there if I did.
  10. Good stuff. I'll more that likely go this route if it turns out that the leak is coming from the banjo bolt area as I suspect. And, I'd like to see that DIY; I'm not in a hurry to replace the fuel pump, I just want to get it done to improve power. The lack of pressure at the fuel rail and the use of 465cc injectors instead of the 650cc the tune is set for, is causing the engine to loose power above 3.5-4k RPM. Simply put, you can hear and feel it choking from lack of fuel. Like, it's running strong and wants to pull hard, then you hit 4k, and it just chokes until you shift and drop in RPMs, then it's all "let's do this!" again.
  11. Nice, I was going to check underneath before I cut, so this it great info to know what direction to look. Thanks Hussein. It does get pretty cold here in the Seattle area, but not like freezing for days cold. I'll take a look in there tomorrow and locate where exactly it's coming from; cause burning off any amount of Evans Waterless is annoying, and can get expensive (and smells really funky too).
  12. Update: Intake Manifold back in, crush washers on the banjo bolt and all; Fuel rail, Throttle body, etc. I did not install the 650cc injectors simply because I didn't install the fuel pump yet. Since it's a 2000, there is no access to the pump from the top side. I'm trying to figure out if I do the hard thing of dropping the tank/sub-frame and access it that way... Or the lazy thing of cutting in an access hole where the previous models had one, and replacing it from there (hint: it's probably going to be the lazy option). Anyone done this? advice would be welcome. Drove it around today and had a blast. After not driving it for 5 or so weeks, I forget just how fun this thing is to drive... now if only I can get all the crap ass Prius drivers out of the damn fastlane... When I slowed down at a light, there was a bit of coolant "smoke" coming out from under the hood. So, I pulled over and took a look and noticed a large coolant splash just to the passenger side of the intake manifold. Looking around, it looks like the coolant line that runs to the banjo bolt is letting some coolant by under high pressure (man, I hate that thing). I'll reassess and figure out what's going on and fix it the weekend, and plan out fuel pump situation. After this latest leak is fixed, I'll have to deep clean the engine bay.
  13. Some work today: Got the block all cleaned up; new starter installed; PVC back in; oil pressure sensors, both factory and aftermarket, back in; Knock sensors reattached. Still to go: Intake manifold; 650cc injectors; High flow fuel pump; Fuel rail; Throttle body; Corroded battery terminal and cables replaced. Had to stop today due to lack of crush washers. I hate that damn banjo bolt on the bottom of the intake manifold. I left a crush washer off of it one before and it leaked oil all over the throttle body, and everything around it. Not that big of a deal though, the battery replacement terminals are back ordered, so final reassembly it delayed anyway.
  14. So, since my other build thread was archived... I'll start another. Here's a link to the old one, cause I'm just going to keep going: 00 V70R-B5244T3 w M66C Anyway, a few days ago, the VR would not start. All the normal things were happening when I turned the key: dash lights come on, fuel pump primes, etc. But, when you go to crank the starter... only the sound of the solenoid clicking. I decided it was the starter after checking that the start signal was actually getting to the starter. Ordered and new one; it arrives tomorrow. In prep for the new starter, I decided to do the tear down today. I pulled the intake pipes, airbox, aux fan, IC charge pipe, all to access the starter. Once I removed the starter, I noticed a shitload of oil all over the block. After inspecting further, I realized the PVC was the problem. Damn thing dumping oil all over my fresh block. So, i took the intake Manifold off as well, to get access tot eh PVC and clean the block. Now that I have basically torn down the intake side of the block, I'm starting to think of other things I can do while I'm in there; like, why put the 465cc injectors back in when I can try the 650cc again. But, I need to upgrade the fuel pump, as the stock cannot provide the PSI for the 650cc's. So, now a AEM In-tank pump is on order. Also, the Oil Pressure sensor has been reporting low pressure at idle; So, I'm going to reseal the 4-way block. And lastly, the battery terminal is corroding again... So, now new terminals are on order and fresh 4ga starter line, and the 8ga lines to the fuse box... Now to inspect the PVC and figure out if it's a defective part (it was installed new with the rebuilt engine), or if it was miss-installed (probably this).
  15. Finally! 27"x3 Curved Samsung Monitors!