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About FrankenMoose

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  • Birthday April 29

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  • Gender Male

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  • Location Seattle, WA
  • Crew NWC

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  1. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    Ok, lots done today; I changed out the broken rear trans bracket for the replacement one (from Hussein's V70XR!). The vertical section of the new bracket was a bit smaller, so there was a lot of adjustment needed.  Overall, I think the position was raised about 2 1/2" (about 1 1/2" for the difference in bracket and 1" for the alignment).  The engine is now dead nuts level in the bay. From the short test drive I found that most of the odd noises are gone.  The "grinding" noise of course is gone, since the trans case is no longer in contact with the frame. The noise of the bearing being stressed is also gone.  And, in a weird side note, the typical single mass fly wheel "bag of anvils" sound when the clutch is out seems to have reduced significantly. There is still a bit of noise when it's in neutral and the clutch is out, but I only notice it now when I'm listening for it (where as before it was so loud i always sat with the clutch in at red lights so others don't hear it).  I topped off the trans fluid to make up for slow leak as well.  Next, I changed out the break-in oil for full synthetic, since the engine is FINALLY ready for regular oil (took almost a year for me to put 3000 miles on the dial). New filter as well. Did a full service while I was there; checked all fluids, yada yada... I also finally connected the reverse lights. The sensor has been in the trans since it was installed, but I lost the harness, until I found it a few days ago.  So, I connected it and BAM reverse lights! The STI chinstrap was detaching itself from the lower bumper. I changed out the screws for bolts and nuts with some lock-tite to keep them in place.  Then I moved on to the interior. I connected the shift boot cover to the shift boot. I still have not figured out what the big red button is going to do, which is why I haven't finished the shift boot. But, then I realized the boot and the knob have very little to do with each other. So, I finished the boot. Then I decided that the black stainless steel vinyl on the mirrors was getting old.. it had been on the car for like a month and a half...  Anyway, I had ordered a sample of a gloss red that I might use to wrap my CL. The sample was 1'x5'. After I wrapped the mirrors I looked around for what else I could wrap.  Then I thought EYEBROWS! I think it came out alright:   Please excuse the crappy potato pic. My Nexus 6 is in the shop and I had to go back to my Galaxy S4 until it's back.
  2. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    Thanks man.  I'll get that info to you right away.  I did purchase the 98-99 mount per your suggestion when I bought the bracket from you.  I think I'm just grasping at straws to find the reason for this leak really.  I just don't want to tear it down for a third time just to have it leak again in a month.  So, my conspiracy theory gear kicked into meltdown. The leak has been an issue, off and on, since the install. This bracket issue just happened. I'll figure the leak out eventually ;P 
  3. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    I used Hussein's bracket.
  4. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    Well, here is a very bad pic of the issue. Looks like I need a new rear Trans mount to fix this.  
  5. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    The hits just keep on coming... This week, while driving around, notices a few loud sort of grinding noise when turning right at speed. The sound only happened when turning right (enough to change lanes or hard turns); no at all on left turns. I haven't had time to investigate, very busy week; so, I just parked it and commandeered the wife's car. I'll have time on Friday to see what's going on. Here's what I'm thinking is going on: I think this has something to with the M66 swap.  The sound I am hearing is the M66 making contact with the frame on the driver's side turning right turns. It is hanging lower than I think it should, but I have nothing to compare it too.  I also think if the M66 being misaligned might be causing the minor leak on the passenger side seal (which has come back and is still an issue). It stopped for about a month after I had a Shop take it apart and charge me $500 to reassemble it. On a related note, the bearing on the passenger axle is also making a lot of noise under acceleration, almost like it is binding, but only when there is a load. Remembering what that seal looked like the last two times I replaced it, I will have to replace it again in order to completely stop the leak.  The inside lip of the double seal on the bottom side gets pulled to the wrong side of the outside seal, leaving just enough room for the fluid to slowly leak out.  Even if I realign the M66 properly, the damage to the seal is done and will have to be replaced.   It all adds up: the persistent leak, the way the seal gets damaged, the sound of the transmission touching the frame, the noisy passenger axle bearing.  I'll take a look possibly tomorrow night.  I will feel kind of stupid if all this could have possibly been avoided by just making sure the transmission is supported and aligned properly...          
  6. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    Last week, while driving to lunch from a job, I started to hear a lot of loud banging coming from the front end of the VR. Turns out that the Passenger side sway bar link had come undone at the top, and was moving around, making all kinds of noises. Luckaly, I was passing by a buddy's shop at the time and decided to go in for a looksie. One of the guys at the shop put it on the rack and found the issue right away. He took the tire off, saw the problem; went back to his toolbox, found a replacement nut that would work, and impact wrenched that bitch back on.  He then checked the other side, which was fine. I was able to drive it home, park it until the parts came, and order new HD Links from IPD.  Now, the old one were also IPD HD Links, so I am just replacing a damaged part, not upgrading.  I did that today, took about two hours (most of that was cleaning the calipers and wheels).  More than likely, this was an error on my part for not rechecking and retorqueing all the nuts and bolts after the engine reinstall; not an error on IPD's side. With that said, I also went though and retorqued every single nut or bolt that I removed for the engine/trans swap. Now I'm tired and my back hurts...  
  7. How Your Car Sits

    Am I using this thread right?
  8. What Did You Do To Your Car Today.

     I've been thinking about this doing something about this in the back of my mind; I hate how far my clutch depresses. What did you come up with?
  9. Hussein's 1998 V70 Xr : The Force Awakens

    Man, so sorry to here about this.  Part of the reason I went with Wiseco pistons is because of your build. But, alas, everything ends. It looks to me like when your piston was on the down stroke, it was extending downward enough for the rod to come in contact with the skirt.  That would explain the slight bend in the skirt, and the stress cracks/fractures. i.e: The skirt was being bent out ever so slightly from the inside by impacting the rod; then, probably bent back into position by the bore on the upstroke. Do this enough times, and BAM stress cracks. Are there any signs of contact on the rods? Also, I don't remember, is this a B5244T3 block? If not, did you also use the crank from a B5244T3 along with the Piston/Rod setup from it? I only ask because the B5244T3 crank as a 92mm circumference, as apposed to the 90mm of the B5234T3. This allows the rod to be in a difference place when rotating than on the 90mm. It is a small difference, but enough to allow for clearance. Just a thought...  
  10. How Your Car Sits

  11. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    The XeMODeX ETM is working great.  I've been concentrating on the CL600 for the past few weeks, so nothing has been done other than install the ETM and let the car sit for a month and a half. Today though, I services the A/C system. I replaced the Receiver/Drier as it sat, uncapped, for the entire year the car was down.  A new one from FCP Euro was only $40, so it seemed easier than servicing the old one.  After that was done, I added compressor oil, and charged the system up.  Easy as pie, and BLAM, Cold area air. Since I haven't been driving it much, I've been wondering why I have it.  I've been using the wife's car (since it had A/C), and the CL for fun and car shows.  But, then I drove the Volvo around for a bit today, and remembered why I built it.  The best part i of driving it is when you get on it a little, which wakes up the exhaust note a bit, then shut it down for a red light, and getting enough sneeze to catch the attention of a pedestrian; then the look of confusion on said pedestrian's face when they turn to see a Volvo sitting at the light.  That look is usually followed by a look of respect and a head nod (and every once in a awhile, the confusion look stays as they puzzle it out).  As much as I like driving the CL around, I mostly get looks that say "I bet that guy is a dick." from most people.  It's nice to get the "What the hell... hmm, not bad." look every once in awhile. I'm sure the looks will improve when the CL get bagged, and VIP'd out, but until then it's just sends out a bunch of "Opulence... I has it" vibes.   
  12. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    XeModeX ETM installed, and the car is running great.  No more codes, sputtering, limp home mode, horrible idle, etc. Let's hope that issue is done. The car has been throwing codes related to the VVT in the past few months. I've been ignoring it as the VVT really is not that important. I found that the stock wiring leading tot he VVT, just above the #2 coil pack, was burned pretty bad under the factory split loom and  tape. This issue is related to the previous posting about the "B" Camshaft being to advanced. The code comes back as camshaft position sensor, but is actually an VVT Error.  I cut out the bad section and soldered in some new lines.  Hopefully that was the extent of the wiring damage.  I also fixed all the factory split loom that had degraded to the point where only the areas where tape had been was left.  And, for the first time since the engine was installed the coil cover and timing belt cover are actually screwed down lol.  After this, I went looking for the problem with the vacuum lines that the Meth controller uses. The tee on the vacuum line was so degraded it disintegrated in my hand when I touched it. It has only been installed for a few months. So, I need to replace that tee with a better one tomorrow in order to continue. I'm finally going to have the AC serviced as well.  It's been empty since the rebuilt and I haven't had a reason to have it filled until now.
  13. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    Finally broke down and bought a XeMODeX rebuilt ETM.  It should be here in a day or two. Ordered the pre-programmed version, provided my VIN, and am just hoping this the the last issue for ahwile, I really need to get miles into this engine (only at 1300 since rebuild) so I can get it on a Dyno to see if it was all worth the cost.   I'm not sure... I will be modifying the storage bottle a bit due to leaking.  But, as far as the injector goes, it's in the ideal place according to the instructions.  There are suggestions to install a ETM spacer kit, kind of like a NOS plate, for the injector. This would put it after the ETM so that it does not flood the throttle body on its way past. The real issue seems to be the error in boost reading. The controller is not showing vacuum, and has not since the incident. I think it may need re-calibration. If it is not properly set, it could run the pump at 100%, which should never happen. Once i get this ETM issue solved once and for all, I'll start concentrating on the Meth.
  14. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    Aaaannnddd... ETS Fail! On the way to IPD, the ETS light came on and the car went into limp home mode.  It may not be totally the rebuilt throttle body's fault though; since the Methanol controller saw fit to dump 1 gallon of meth through the engine in less than 60 miles. The controller is in default now, since the tank is empty, so it will have to be inspected before I replace the ETB. The caravan I was with were very supportive and stayed with me until we found a place to leave the car for the night local to were if broke down. I then continued on to IPD as a passenger in Steve's Saffy. Had a great time at IPD, though I spent the whole time wishing my car was there. Next day, Gregg gave me a ride back to the car. When I got there, I fired it up just for giggles (on Gregg's suggestion). And, It did start up, but ran very rough. But, instead of almost choking itself to death after the first few minutes like ETS issues do, it stabilized and idled well enough for me to think I could get it home.  So I did just that; drove it home very slowly. Never went over 3 grand, and tried to stay under 60mph. It coughed a few times, and I though it would go into limp home mode again; but it made it the whole 60 miles back. What I've learned: Rebuilding the original throttle body may be a waste of time and money.  I think it will be best to buy a completely remanufactured one from XeMODeX now.  It may be expensive, but from the testimonies I heard at IPD, it's worth it.  Placed an Order for one this morning in fact.  I knew the throttle body issue was the 2000's Achilles heal when I bought it; but I did it anyway, knowing I'd be gambling with the "not if but when" timeline. Still love the 2k though.    
  15. 00 V70R - B5244T3 W/ M66C

    Downpipe fixed, Driver's side carpet replaced, Meth tank filled; all ready for IPD!