FrankenMoose

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About FrankenMoose

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  • Birthday April 29

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Crew
    NWC

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  1. Some work today: Got the block all cleaned up; new starter installed; PVC back in; oil pressure sensors, both factory and aftermarket, back in; Knock sensors reattached. Still to go: Intake manifold; 650cc injectors; High flow fuel pump; Fuel rail; Throttle body; Corroded battery terminal and cables replaced. Had to stop today due to lack of crush washers. I hate that damn banjo bolt on the bottom of the intake manifold. I left a crush washer off of it one before and it leaked oil all over the throttle body, and everything around it. Not that big of a deal though, the battery replacement terminals are back ordered, so final reassembly it delayed anyway.
  2. I hate you all... All I have is parking spots in a parking garage. I have to get out of this High Rise...
  3. So, since my other build thread was archived... I'll start another. Here's a link to the old one, cause I'm just going to keep going: 00 V70R-B5244T3 w M66C Anyway, a few days ago, the VR would not start. All the normal things were happening when I turned the key: dash lights come on, fuel pump primes, etc. But, when you go to crank the starter... only the sound of the solenoid clicking. I decided it was the starter after checking that the start signal was actually getting to the starter. Ordered and new one; it arrives tomorrow. In prep for the new starter, I decided to do the tear down today. I pulled the intake pipes, airbox, aux fan, IC charge pipe, all to access the starter. Once I removed the starter, I noticed a shitload of oil all over the block. After inspecting further, I realized the PVC was the problem. Damn thing dumping oil all over my fresh block. So, i took the intake Manifold off as well, to get access tot eh PVC and clean the block. Now that I have basically torn down the intake side of the block, I'm starting to think of other things I can do while I'm in there; like, why put the 465cc injectors back in when I can try the 650cc again. But, I need to upgrade the fuel pump, as the stock cannot provide the PSI for the 650cc's. So, now a AEM In-tank pump is on order. Also, the Oil Pressure sensor has been reporting low pressure at idle; So, I'm going to reseal the 4-way block. And lastly, the battery terminal is corroding again... So, now new terminals are on order and fresh 4ga starter line, and the 8ga lines to the fuse box... Now to inspect the PVC and figure out if it's a defective part (it was installed new with the rebuilt engine), or if it was miss-installed (probably this).
  4. Finally! 27"x3 Curved Samsung Monitors!
  5. Yup, It's the 1000ca version not the 800cca; so I paid $150 out the door. I haven't purchased a OEM battery in like 20 years. But, due to all the computers and electrical needs of this car, its the really the best battery on the market. This, or the Interstate Battery version, which costs more currently.
  6. 60lbs of lead and acid. The V12 in the CL600 needs mass quantities...
  7. Am I using this thread right?
  8. I've been thinking about this doing something about this in the back of my mind; I hate how far my clutch depresses. What did you come up with?
  9. Man, so sorry to here about this. Part of the reason I went with Wiseco pistons is because of your build. But, alas, everything ends. It looks to me like when your piston was on the down stroke, it was extending downward enough for the rod to come in contact with the skirt. That would explain the slight bend in the skirt, and the stress cracks/fractures. i.e: The skirt was being bent out ever so slightly from the inside by impacting the rod; then, probably bent back into position by the bore on the upstroke. Do this enough times, and BAM stress cracks. Are there any signs of contact on the rods? Also, I don't remember, is this a B5244T3 block? If not, did you also use the crank from a B5244T3 along with the Piston/Rod setup from it? I only ask because the B5244T3 crank as a 92mm circumference, as apposed to the 90mm of the B5234T3. This allows the rod to be in a difference place when rotating than on the 90mm. It is a small difference, but enough to allow for clearance. Just a thought...
  10. Sure looks better, but also emphasis the need for moar low on that Saffy
  11. I do not currently have any watches, as I really do not like having things on my wrist. But, I am thinking of trying to break this aversion with purchasing a Slow Watch; specifically the Slow Jo 06 38mm style. Anyone have any experience with these? Are they worth the price? https://www.slow-watches.com/the-store/slow-jo-38mm?
  12. A set of Brabus Monoblock IV for $150. Should look real nice after refurb.
  13. Tech Day with MBCA, Seattle Chapter. Left with a long list of what it needs, and in what order to do it in.
  14. I've got a set of them too, work horse and impractical: