I do not currently have any watches, as I really do not like having things on my wrist. But, I am thinking of trying to break this aversion with purchasing a Slow Watch; specifically the Slow Jo 06 38mm style. Anyone have any experience with these? Are they worth the price?
Took a bit of time today to clean up the massive puddle of transmission fluid in the parking garage that the car has left over the past 6 months. The garage owner stopped by while I was cleaning it and said "Thanks for doing that." I said, "I made the mess, I'm gonna clean it up; but I waited until the damn thing stopped leaking." He said, "I was going to say something eventually, but I'm glad you took care of it before I had to."
Afterwards, I installed the rear Pass. door I bought off a parts car a few weeks ago. Fit like a glove, but the glass was tinted the wrong color/film. I removed the old glass from the old door, then removed the door, installed the new door, removed the glass from that door, then installed the old glass. Now I need to re-vinyl the window frame to match the rest of the car:
There is a deep scratch in the upper middle of the door. It's not so bad that it can't be buffed down, then vinyled over when I get around to the full body wrap. It does look much better than the giant dent on the lower half of the door.
All right, went out to check for leaks today, and it was bone dry! Fist time since the M66 was installed 8ish months ago. lol
Reviewing the paperwork from the shop; it turns out they didn't just pull the Pass. axle and the bevel gear, they pulled the whole damn transmission out of the car, cracked it open, resealed it, and replace all 4 seals on the output shafts (both sides). They reported that they found that on the Drivers side, the rubber was fine on the seal, but the spring was damaged, so they replaced it. And the seal I replaced a few months ago on the Pass side was all chewed up again on the outside; just like when I found the old one. They also noticed that the second smaller seal on that side was missing entirely, as well as an o-ring that goes in there. I also watched them seal the BG to the trans with sealant while they reassembled everything; something I know I did not do. Kinda looks like I have to go back to the first shop that cracked it open to install the Quaife LSD and give them a talkin' to.
I'm going to keep watching this for a couple weeks, since it was such a problem for so long. But, with this done, there is nothing stopping the car for hitting the Dyno...
A new issue has come up, that if the car sits for more than 5 days, the battery dies. I just replaced the battery a few months ago with a Optima Yellow Top, so it looks like I have a power drain to track down...
Bought a rear passenger door of a 00 V70R that is being parted out locally today. I also picked up the carpet from the same car. The door is to replace the current one that my wife put a giant dent in when she was pulling out of our parking spots (haven't you secretively wondered why all the pics of the car from the Driver's side?). It's a big dent across the lower half of the door. The donor car is the same year, model and even color code; so, WIN! Carpet is the same color as well, albeit in better condition than mine, so double WIN!! This will fix the melted carpet issue from the heater core fail.
So, the car has been in a tranny shop for a week while they track down and repair the leaking pass. side of the M66. They did just that, and that part of the job is good to go... but, when they were down there, they pinched the coolant line that leads to the oil cooler with the Bevel gear while removing it, causing a small pin hole to open up. They called and said what had happened, then told me they ordered a new hose, and replaced it. I asked, "You guys do know that the coolant is Evan's Waterless, right?" Silence on the other end... I continued, "and that it is reuseable, you just collect it, and filter it while putting it back in." I hear, "Oh fuck..." Then I say "So, that stuff is $45 a gallon, and cannot be purchased locally. You have to order it." The guy said hold on; is gone for about 5 minutes; returns to say "Yeah, they threw it out. We will have to order some to replace it. Totally our bad on this." I'm just hoping no one tried to add any regular coolant in it, or the whole thing is fucked. He said no, it's still int he air and they haven't brought it down to fill it yet. The Tech has no idea how much was drained either. Luckaly, I keep a gallon in the back of the car for emergencies; but more than that probably was drained out. Man, talk about fixing one thing only to screw up another...
I also recommend the Porterfield R4-S for street use, and some autocross. But, I switch to the R-4 compound version for autocross/Track use. The R-4 compound pads do squeal... like, a lot... like, people walking on the sidewalk staring at you, a lot... So, if you use them for autocross, make sure you swap them out afterwards. As said before, the R4-S are high temp, grip like mad, and very low dust pads.
Rebuilt Throttle Body is back in the car. I had ARD rebuild it with new seals and contact-less sensor. I started to do the upgrade myself, got the unit open, took one look at the setup and said nope. Also, there was some moisture inside the sensor area, so I realized a full rebuild was needed, and I just ain't got that kinda work space.
I really cannot say whether or not the rebuild has helped performance; but I can say it's not going into "limp home" mode anymore, and that is a great improvement in performance
When the heater core exploded, it melted some of the carpet backing next to the gas pedal. Not sure what to do with this; it does interfere with diving (the warped carpet sits on the side of your foot while driving). Not sure if I am going to cut away the melted carpet, try to heat it up and reform it, or just replace the carpet in the front. More than likely, it will be one of the first two for now, and the last eventually.
So now, the only issue left to be addressed from the build is the leaking M66c. I have an appointment next Thursday to have this looked at by a local transmission shop. Once this is done, I will contact ARD for some fine tuning/tweaking (like getting the 750cc injectors back into the car), then get it on a Dyno. As it drives now, it feels fast, but it also feels like it's holding back. Like at WOT you are only getting about 85% of what the engine wants to produce. It's hard to describe, but everyone that has ridden in the car says the same: "It goes, it goes fast, but it feels like it can go even faster. something is holding it back"
First the transmission, then Dyno, then fine tuning , then more Dyno. Lots to do...