Simply Volvo

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Simply Volvo last won the day on January 12

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About Simply Volvo

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    Newtown PA
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    NEC

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  1. Yeah just go classic or antique. No one will bother you. I’m sure the stories of people getting bothered aren’t fully accurate. They were probably doing something that was going to get them pulled over anyway.
  2. No has bothered me and I drove by multiple cops with open downpipes. They saw the plate and went on their business. PA wants their money (and in this case I forked over about $500 all said and done). The official PA documentation says... "A motor vehicle, but not a reproduction thereof, manufactured more than 25 years prior to the current year which has been maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially in conformance with manufacturer specifications." sub·stan·tial·ly - for the most part; essentially. The 850 came AWD from the factory (in some countries and th
  3. Exhaust is fully done. I really love the sound of it and its very bearable on the highway with the windows closed. Going to spend the next few weeks getting done a bunch of small things and tying up loose ends.
  4. 2000 is a weird year. Its uses a different transfer case that 96-99. You could use a 96-99 transfer case if you swap downpipes and right axles (might be some complications with this / might have to combine 2 different axles). They're all generic SKF or Timken bearings. Nothing special. Don't order the Volvo PNs for the bearings theyre mostly NLA or not even on the diagram. Just read off the parts numbers on the bearings. You'll have to take the whole thing apart. For the ring gear you need 2 x 32010X (SKF OR TIMKEN ETC). The pinon depends... there are two different style pinons
  5. Darton sleeves can most certainly be ordered in 81mm bore. Darton PN 800-555. Dartons with minimum .003" step deck and MLS gasket and a strong 12.9 TTY bolt is the strongest possible combination. If you are using a RN block you need to make sure its machined correctly for the RN coolant divider. They get a bad reputation because shops either do garbage machine work or don't step deck them properly... they however are the strongest. With the MID design you basically get a CSS but you also get rid of the weak cylinder liner. Even with CSS and a fairly thick cylinder liner the material itsel
  6. Thanks for the kind words! Ill checkout that website. The helmet (3M SPEEDGLASS 9002NC) I got is absolutely fantastic. I went from looking through Vaseline to looking through glass. Its very very clear when there is no arc going and also very clear when there is an arc. I went mandrel because in order to fit 3.5" with all of the AWD crap and good air gaps I need 2" CLR which is only possible with pie cuts. No one will make below 5" CLR for 3.5" OD. My wastegate also dumps to atmosphere so 3.5" with straight through muffler should be plenty for my "4 cyl" up to 1200hp.
  7. Thanks H for the tips. I definitely have found using pulse and fusing the metal together to be the most effective and easiest. I spent a lot of time tuning in the CUP size, gas flow, etc was getting lots of nasty black SS welds in the beginning. I didn't opt for mandrel because the DP needs to use 2" CLR and I wanted as much weld practice as possible. Im quite over the pie cuts at this point though... getting better at welding (still blobby and some pinholes), but getting there! I don't think i will buy prepolished SS again. The welds are weird. They get this weird shiny br
  8. Took a little break for a few weeks. Started back up this week and bought a TIG welder to make SS 304 3.5" exhaust. I'm really enjoying the TIG so far and picking it up fairly quick. I purchased a Borla XR1 3.5" straight through muffler and 3.5" Vibrant bottle style resonator which are not pictured below. Also not pictured is the flex coupler which came today.
  9. Car is running really well in locked 4WD mode
  10. I trimmed my bump stops today. It has a solid 1" now. I might raise up the rear a tiny more. I also soften up my dampening a ton. Now I am 8 clicks from softest. The car rides normal again. It was horrible with maxed dampening. I need to start putting together a stainless exhaust system. The open 3.5" down pipe sucks and you can't hear yourself think. Definitely going to use a Borla XR-1 again and probably add a resonator too like a vibrant bottle style. Might have a TIG welder coming in the mail soon so this will be a good first TIG project.
  11. I think the issue has been resolved. Right after converting to full time 4WD I think I was hitting oil pressure cut which was making it seem like I was hitting limiter so i was never getting complete pulls. The car absolutely pulls like an animal now in 2nd with it locked 4WD. 1st still spins but 2nd is insane. I still think the viscous coupler was monkeyed as it doesn't slam limiter in 2nd now. Just pulls with full traction. Next Ill try the known working VC once it arrives.
  12. 550lb. QA1s are 4 clicks down from max dampening. I'm most likely going to remove a front axle which will effectively make the car RWD... then I can tune the rear suspension. Since the viscous coupler is deleted there will be no damage. Then I can tune it for max traction RWD and then try AWD again.
  13. Yeah you should be able to register yours this upcoming year. I would do it... its perm registration so only pay once and don't have to pay yearly for cars that don't drive much. You'll be able to get cheaper classic insurance I only had my license for 9 years and most want 10 years before they give you cheap classic (GEICO, etc). Im using Hagerty right now cause they're the only ones that would take me (26 with 800hp car others question it cause of age). Progress on AWD: Facing a strange issue with the AWD recently... I got the viscous coupler back from welding today. Both
  14. T-5R's just turned 25 this year, so I got it registered as an antique in my state Pennsylvania. No inspection or emissions and its a permanent registration. No one has hassled me yet. I drove by a couple police, they saw the antique plate, my slipstream racing numbers on the windows and minded their own business. I drive it on the weekends and sometimes at night its not out enough for anyone to question it (as your technically only allowed out once a week)... other than its fully street legal, insured and everything! You need classic insurance which is expensive. I'm paying $800 a year right n