Simply Volvo

Members
  • Content Count

    2,558
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    38
  • Feedback

    0%

Simply Volvo last won the day on September 23

Simply Volvo had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

807 Excellent

About Simply Volvo

  • Rank
    Level 3 Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Newtown PA
  • Crew
    NEC

Recent Profile Visitors

19,039 profile views
  1. Thanks! Yes I added a crush washer to the coolant sensor as well as thread sealant and torqued to 25nm as per the Bosch datasheet. The oil pump and senor array have about 1" clearance to the rack. I made some changes to make some more room. All 6 engine mounts are Polyeurethane. The engine is basically solidly mounted so Im not too concerned about it moving 3/4-1" and causing contact with the pump. Well see though, this is enough to get me driving for now. Shockproof is only going on rear diff and angle gear. Trans fluid is going to be a special concoction.
  2. OK so I found my notes on this... kinda... the rest im gonna piece together with my general knowledge of EFI and stuff I found on the internet. So you can't just plug in the raw values because we have no idea how M44s constant was calculated and with what units... tL(ms) = mL / (n x K1) mL is corrected air mass. n is engine speed rpm. K1 is calculated constant. Lets pretend this is how K1 is calculated nCyl*14,7*Qstat[g/min]*0,0000167[ms/min]*60[min/h] / 1000[g/kg] Lets try this with 315cc injectors at idle (840rpm & 14kg/hr) K1 = 5 * 14.7 * 226g/min * 0.0000167 * 60 / 1000. K1 = .0166 tL = 14kg/hr / (840 * .0166) = 1ms Seems pretty legit. Honestly what I would do is look back at your logs and just try to solve for K (since we have no idea how M44s is calculated or what units it uses) with the units you want to use... it should always remain constant. tL(ms) = mL / (n x K1) (n * K1) = mL / tL K = mL (KG/HR) / tL (ms) / n (RPM) Plug values from your log in and you'll always get the same K, then just use that K. ~Matt
  3. I planed on just suspending it off the hard lines... or orienting it and mounting it with a u bracket to the steering rack. The pump is a 2-4 psi low pressure fuel lift pump for a carb. Its self priming and can lift 18". Its a diaphragm pump that uses a solenoid to pull and push on the diaphragm so I am not too worried about vibration effecting it... its very very basic with very minial moving parts (diaphragm and check valve balls). I will also have both a pressure sensor (to determine pump failure) and oil temperature (to determine heat soak) integrated.
  4. Finished final assembly on the last big hurdle that was holding me back from putting the engine back in and starting the car.
  5. Yes there is sooo much crap to organize with the AWD, especially when the car never had it in the first place! I will order up some SS fittings & lines from McMaster. Thanks for the advice.
  6. Finished up the fuel lines. Had to do some clerancing in body to make those bastards fit. 😄
  7. Thats what I ended up doing. My OCD was getting in the way of just extending the existing lines that run up to the bay. What a pain running the lines to the surge tank with the AWD subframe and tank. Such little room between the top of the subframe and body. Took quite some time to make sure nothing was pinched / kinked.
  8. Got me a rear subframe almost fully installed...
  9. New clutch. Its lighter than a feather and I got it setup perfect!
  10. Thanks for always taking the time to write up such details posts. I appreciate the insight & help greatly. I made some progress on the oil drain tonight. Ill post up a few pictures when I get things tacked up. I was able to use some 1" OD aluminum tubing to basically shoot the drain directly towards the firewall and then 180 around and switch to 12AN braided hose. It mains a downhill the entire time including when its going towards the fire wall and bending around the 180. The FWD 12AN drain to the oil pan was so much easier & worked so freaking well! Oh well though, there is a lot going on back there with the turbo and angle gear so its going to take some extra work. Thanks! I set him a message on Facebook.
  11. Thank Hussein! Yes the oil drain is something I need to continue playing around with. I found this piece which might order up and try. Its a flexible turbo oil drain. It might allow me to get a better angle off the turbo. Then I can weld on an AN fitting or something. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdd-1453106 On a side note... Hussein I kinda remember the mods you made to your AWD fuel pump sender to fit a DW300 but all of the links to the pictures are dead... from what I remember the pump outlet fits the sender fine, but you had to make a spacer on the pump inlet in order to hookup the strainer screen? Do you remember the ID of that spacer?
  12. Built M58 : M66 Quaife, Reinforcement plate for bearings, P1 M56H 4.25 (strongest volvo gearset out there & steel synchros) and a custom mount to adapt it to the P80 FWD subframe / steering rack.
  13. Yes. The flanges he sells are made by a company called Bakaxle who no longer make them and have told me they never will again... or I would've got them from Ben. Not sure why they are still on his site.
  14. Put the motor back together after a little refresh. Switched from ARP studs (which can cause the water jacket to crack and leak) to VW PD150 grade 12.9 head bolts. Volvo are 10.9 for reference.