Simply Volvo

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Everything posted by Simply Volvo

  1. Yes I did get very lucky. However I was standing as far to the side as I could With my arms fully stretched out which is why I think I avoided getting hurt. Definitely learned my lesson. It’s definitely opened my eyes up to slowing down a little and taking more time to think things through.
  2. Projects been a little slow waiting on parts, but still going!!
  3. Yep you got it. Its to use the P2 style Press in brass tube & filter. The P80 angle gear, as im sure you know, just has this crappy wheep hole that I can see making a mess @ high speeds.
  4. Got some parts back from manufacturing I designed...
  5. $200 shipped CONUS. International buyer pays shipping. 2 x 8” 300lb springs 2 x TA Technix Adjustable perches 2 x TKI Motorsport upper perches (no longer made, rare) Photo is the rear with the perches half way up. Puts it flush with the fender on 17s.
  6. Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo. For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (have it mounted in the same location you had yours). Pushing along... Made some homemade poly bushings for the diff cover since they are NLA: Got the rear subframe brackets I designed welded in & the VC mount.
  7. The 07 M58 has the same 23 spline input shaft as the M66. You should be able to use a S60R/V70R clutch kit which should be rated for higher torque than the clutch you have.
  8. Continuing to push on through COVID... Got the FWD stuff out in the rear and finalized my angle gear case and got it out to manufacturing (received the first part last Friday) ...
  9. Understood. Didn't mean to come off as rude but I've had a lot of backlash from people saying to use a Haldex rear over the P80 and I'm slightly fed up with it 😄 But I understand now. My VC is in very very good condition. Before I took everything out of the donor I did the test with a torque wrench and the rear wheels locked and it tested perfectly. Also zero sign of silicone leakage. Since I will be drag racing and roll racing in this car where runs only last 10 seconds or so Im not too concerned about the VC overheating. If this were a road racing / time attack / autocross car I could see it overheating quite frequently. Was this a 1030 or 1031 ring gear? You saying Volvo LSD makes me think 1030 as I believe they came way more frequently in those rears. If so the 1031 gear set (in the AWD 1165 rear casing) is much stronger & larger diameter than the 1030 gear set. Ive talked to a few people over the pond and have been told the 1031 gear sets are very strong and are used in drag racing quite frequently over there and they even swap them into American cars (which is funny cause most people swap American rears into cars with the 1031/1041/etc). There is even a guy with the 1165 AWD rear with 1031 gear set & quaife LSD that he is using in his 1000hp Audi UR Quattro. No where did I say I expected Volvo to give us bullet proof designs. I was simply stating a fact that their aluminum housings are weak. Welding the freewheel unit when it breaks will allow torque to continue to be transferred to the rear through the VC as when it breaks you loose all torque transfer to the rear. Not sure whats gonna happen braking wise, but there are plenty of other VC based AWD systems that don't use a FWM and the rear is pretty under braked anyway. Most likely the FWM was introduced in order to provide more stable breaking on ice... as from reading the volvo docs most of the design decisions of the system have been made around driving in snow / ice.
  10. This is pretty interesting and I have a few thoughts. After seeing Volvo's horrible track record with cast aluminum casings (P80 & P2 angle gear) I can't see something like this being able to withstand the amount of torque & power my setup makes and being able to reliability launch at full power on a prepped surface with slicks. The goal here is a 800hp+ launchable car with repeatability. In my opinion Volvo seems to cheap out on not only the quality of the castings of their aluminum housings but also the design and just make it barely strong enough to work but to keep it as light weight as possible (lots of webbing & thin walls). On a hard AWD launch due to the front lifting a majority of the torque is usually transferred through the rear meaning the rear needs to able to withstand full engine torque in 1st gear. I get angle gear nightmares thinking about 700-800nm engine torque being sent through that thing. In terms of raw strength and reliability I don't think the P80 Cast Iron 1165 diff casing coupled with an aftermarket LSD & 960 MKI axles can be beat. I am however not writing off the Haldex part of it. I think having Haldex would be awesome, but with a P80 rear diff. I have started putting together designs of a custom housing (with its own oil supply & adapter shaft) to adapt a GEN3 AOC to the P80 rear diff. I will pursue this further if the viscous coupler proves to be the next weak link in my drivetrain. A break down of the drive train so far... P2 23 Spline M58 (this combo has been proven to do 800-900bhp AWD and run 9 sec 1/4 mile) 23 Spline M56HK 4.00 gear set 23 Spline M56H Stronger 3rd gear from a p1 Quaife LSD My billet angle gear case design (1000nm engine tq in all gears / 4000nm output torque capable which is 2.66x stronger than volvos strongest AWD on the diesels which is 1500nm angle gear output capable & 4-5x stronger than the P80 & P2 unit) Stock viscous coupler with welded freewheel unit 1165 AWD rear diff housing (same as 960 1055/1065) coupled with TruTrac LSD & 27 spline adapter flanges & 960 MKI axles (thicker shaft & CVs over AWD axles, higher spline count)
  11. It was so much friggin work. Pressing out / burning out all of the bushings and then pressing in all of the new ones was an insane amount of work... not to mention cleaning up the whole thing and replacing everything. Should be worth it though, every single part is going to be brand new and replaced. More updates. Going with a true LSD in the rear. None of the stock G80 locker crap that breaks.
  12. Much love everyone. Hopefully we can get this done and have more fun racing this summer again like last!! ~Matt
  13. Still a lot going on with the build. This year we are going AWD!!! I have fully switched over to YouTube now as my main platform. Below are some of my latest videos. Checkout the full channel here : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXbU3yYxswA5F4Ep_WyXelw
  14. Congrats! Glad i could help provide some inspiration!
  15. Fun time at the Poconos. 159mph official trap but didn't let out until 173 🙂
  16. Volvo OEM hydrualic mounts on the sides and the MRPE.se solid mount on the front (near harmonic balancer). 3rd gear for heat management. Not the best fan setup. 4th would probably be absolutely fine but i can collect plenty of data during a 3rd.
  17. 708WHP now 🙂 Another roll race sunday. 165mph goal.
  18. Fixed my sync loss by changing the value of my shunt resistor and also finally tuned ignition timing. Session got cut short due to t bolt clamp failure.
  19. I don’t think a zener diode would work. That would actually clip the AC sine wave. I simply want to reduce the amplitude. A resistor across the VR sensor lead works fine, you just need to choose the lowest value resistor that doesn’t give you problems at low rpm. I was running too high of a value (10k). Switching to 3.3k 1/3rd the amplitude and fixed the problem.
  20. Thanks!! The issue actually ended up being too big of a shunt resistor (resistor wired in parallel between the + and - leg of the VR sensor. The voltage was getting too high at high rpm and the decoding circuit would overload. I switched from a 10k to a 3.3k and it has solved the issue (atleast on the street). This will 1/3 the voltage. Nope, not yet. I work remote for my company, so gonna keep looking like a bum. 😂 Thank you!! Definitely a lot more power in it! Thanks!! Shhh dont tell anyone its a 5 cyl. Yeah I kept doing that. I would throw on the belt and be like wait wtf am i doing. Thanks! I really enjoy producing the YouTube videos and I think others do as well. I really want to try and take the channel to the next level. Theres SOOOO many Honda, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Supra, BMW channels, its time for a legit Volvo one.