Simply Volvo

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Simply Volvo

  1. Yeah just go classic or antique. No one will bother you. I’m sure the stories of people getting bothered aren’t fully accurate. They were probably doing something that was going to get them pulled over anyway.
  2. No has bothered me and I drove by multiple cops with open downpipes. They saw the plate and went on their business. PA wants their money (and in this case I forked over about $500 all said and done). The official PA documentation says... "A motor vehicle, but not a reproduction thereof, manufactured more than 25 years prior to the current year which has been maintained in or restored to a condition which is substantially in conformance with manufacturer specifications." sub·stan·tial·ly - for the most part; essentially. The 850 came AWD from the factory (in some countries and th
  3. Exhaust is fully done. I really love the sound of it and its very bearable on the highway with the windows closed. Going to spend the next few weeks getting done a bunch of small things and tying up loose ends.
  4. 2000 is a weird year. Its uses a different transfer case that 96-99. You could use a 96-99 transfer case if you swap downpipes and right axles (might be some complications with this / might have to combine 2 different axles). They're all generic SKF or Timken bearings. Nothing special. Don't order the Volvo PNs for the bearings theyre mostly NLA or not even on the diagram. Just read off the parts numbers on the bearings. You'll have to take the whole thing apart. For the ring gear you need 2 x 32010X (SKF OR TIMKEN ETC). The pinon depends... there are two different style pinons
  5. Darton sleeves can most certainly be ordered in 81mm bore. Darton PN 800-555. Dartons with minimum .003" step deck and MLS gasket and a strong 12.9 TTY bolt is the strongest possible combination. If you are using a RN block you need to make sure its machined correctly for the RN coolant divider. They get a bad reputation because shops either do garbage machine work or don't step deck them properly... they however are the strongest. With the MID design you basically get a CSS but you also get rid of the weak cylinder liner. Even with CSS and a fairly thick cylinder liner the material itsel
  6. Thanks for the kind words! Ill checkout that website. The helmet (3M SPEEDGLASS 9002NC) I got is absolutely fantastic. I went from looking through Vaseline to looking through glass. Its very very clear when there is no arc going and also very clear when there is an arc. I went mandrel because in order to fit 3.5" with all of the AWD crap and good air gaps I need 2" CLR which is only possible with pie cuts. No one will make below 5" CLR for 3.5" OD. My wastegate also dumps to atmosphere so 3.5" with straight through muffler should be plenty for my "4 cyl" up to 1200hp.
  7. Thanks H for the tips. I definitely have found using pulse and fusing the metal together to be the most effective and easiest. I spent a lot of time tuning in the CUP size, gas flow, etc was getting lots of nasty black SS welds in the beginning. I didn't opt for mandrel because the DP needs to use 2" CLR and I wanted as much weld practice as possible. Im quite over the pie cuts at this point though... getting better at welding (still blobby and some pinholes), but getting there! I don't think i will buy prepolished SS again. The welds are weird. They get this weird shiny br
  8. Took a little break for a few weeks. Started back up this week and bought a TIG welder to make SS 304 3.5" exhaust. I'm really enjoying the TIG so far and picking it up fairly quick. I purchased a Borla XR1 3.5" straight through muffler and 3.5" Vibrant bottle style resonator which are not pictured below. Also not pictured is the flex coupler which came today.
  9. Car is running really well in locked 4WD mode
  10. I trimmed my bump stops today. It has a solid 1" now. I might raise up the rear a tiny more. I also soften up my dampening a ton. Now I am 8 clicks from softest. The car rides normal again. It was horrible with maxed dampening. I need to start putting together a stainless exhaust system. The open 3.5" down pipe sucks and you can't hear yourself think. Definitely going to use a Borla XR-1 again and probably add a resonator too like a vibrant bottle style. Might have a TIG welder coming in the mail soon so this will be a good first TIG project.
  11. I think the issue has been resolved. Right after converting to full time 4WD I think I was hitting oil pressure cut which was making it seem like I was hitting limiter so i was never getting complete pulls. The car absolutely pulls like an animal now in 2nd with it locked 4WD. 1st still spins but 2nd is insane. I still think the viscous coupler was monkeyed as it doesn't slam limiter in 2nd now. Just pulls with full traction. Next Ill try the known working VC once it arrives.
  12. 550lb. QA1s are 4 clicks down from max dampening. I'm most likely going to remove a front axle which will effectively make the car RWD... then I can tune the rear suspension. Since the viscous coupler is deleted there will be no damage. Then I can tune it for max traction RWD and then try AWD again.
  13. Yeah you should be able to register yours this upcoming year. I would do it... its perm registration so only pay once and don't have to pay yearly for cars that don't drive much. You'll be able to get cheaper classic insurance I only had my license for 9 years and most want 10 years before they give you cheap classic (GEICO, etc). Im using Hagerty right now cause they're the only ones that would take me (26 with 800hp car others question it cause of age). Progress on AWD: Facing a strange issue with the AWD recently... I got the viscous coupler back from welding today. Both
  14. T-5R's just turned 25 this year, so I got it registered as an antique in my state Pennsylvania. No inspection or emissions and its a permanent registration. No one has hassled me yet. I drove by a couple police, they saw the antique plate, my slipstream racing numbers on the windows and minded their own business. I drive it on the weekends and sometimes at night its not out enough for anyone to question it (as your technically only allowed out once a week)... other than its fully street legal, insured and everything! You need classic insurance which is expensive. I'm paying $800 a year right n
  15. Car is running AWD... The viscous coupler is holding me back. Either its worn out or I didn't understand from the get go how it was going to function during a launch / roll. It take some time to wind up and I really don't like that. I want torque to all wheels instantly (even if that means spinning all 4). Going to be locking the drivetrain 50/50 for now until I can design an adapter to use a Gen3 haldex clutch. I am well aware of the pros and cons of 50/50 but its not a concern for this car.
  16. Ill send you a PM on the 00R plate. Id be interested in that if you are willing to part ways with it. I think temps will climb closer to 200F when loaded and just driving around. Probably closer to 225F on extended heavy loading. The fluid is rated for an absolute max of 302F (its flash point). My main interest in monitoring the unloaded temperature is to get an idea of how much heat soak is effecting the case temperature since its around a lot of things that produce / radiate heat. Max I've seen sitting in traffic for an extended period is about 150F so that's pretty decent. Being s
  17. Its NLA new and trying to find a used one that isnt a rusty rotted mess would be difficult. I bought a new from Volvo 98 plate (9474483). According to your 98-00 AWD components thread... EDIT 3/08/14: Carrier variations - note that the later 99-00 DS with larger (better) carrier bearing CAN BE USED in late '98's - you have to re-drill the carrier mount holes in the support plate to 2.25 on center, inboard of the existing 3" on center holes. I believe I can just modify the 98 plate and redrill it? ~Matt
  18. Hey H, Yeah I could modify the diameter of my adapter to work for your axle. Just need the OD of the CV where the metal flange crimps onto and location of any recesses where the grub screws could bite into (such as channel where the metal crimps onto). My plastic version seems to be holding up fairly well so far. More FWD testing. OEM propshaft is on order (9463300). This a 2000 V70R propshaft with the largest carrier of em all. Should be arriving today! Also need to do a one over on all the bolts and get my new tires mounted.
  19. Resolved the issues with the rear outer CV boots rubbing on the control arms due to the use of 960 axles.
  20. @lookforjoe Oh BTW! I think I finally figured out why the surge tank cracked on you long ago when you had your wagon... must be the 40 psi of back pressure inside the tank due to the AWD siphon pump. When I ran the surge tank FWD, I had no issues with any further cracks because the back pressure was probably 0-5 psi. Tank cracked this weekend. Must've been the back pressure. I ended up grabbing a DW 3.5L surge tank to replace it. Going to swap over my pumps and fittings. Hopefully it can hold the pressure. Its also anodized inside to prevent corrosion from E85. Maybe the use of E85 a
  21. Im using Volvo 960 axles which have a much larger CV so I think that's the reason im having the issues. Stock AWD axle CVs are a lot smaller in diameter so probably why no one else on max low has had this issue.
  22. Hey H, I did not increase the the ID of the senders (I did cut a chunk out of the sender though). Just used 5/16 -> 3/8 quick connect 90 elbows. I don' think increasing the sender lines is going to significantly lower siphon pump back pressure. The DW300 (340LPH) is just too much fuel volume for the siphon and I have talked to others who have had issues with not being able to go below 40-45 psi fuel pressure. Even with the stock 255 I bet the back pressure is still going to be 25-30 psi. I am simply going to PWM the intank pump and add a pressure sensor to the surge tank and used close
  23. First drive went well except some small issues with the rear cv boots...
  24. Thanks! Yes I added a crush washer to the coolant sensor as well as thread sealant and torqued to 25nm as per the Bosch datasheet. The oil pump and senor array have about 1" clearance to the rack. I made some changes to make some more room. All 6 engine mounts are Polyeurethane. The engine is basically solidly mounted so Im not too concerned about it moving 3/4-1" and causing contact with the pump. Well see though, this is enough to get me driving for now. Shockproof is only going on rear diff and angle gear. Trans fluid is going to be a special concoction.