Simply Volvo

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Posts posted by Simply Volvo


  1. On 7/2/2020 at 8:21 AM, lookforjoe said:

    Dang Matt - once those height pins started bending, you should have stopped using that press. Very lucky you didn't kill yourself dude. IF you do repair the jack for jobs under 20 tons, I have found that the x70 AWD axle shaft fits in the press frame height holes. I cut a pair of dead axles down to a suitable length & use them with my 20 ton press. Much better steel than the HF-supplied crap. I appreciate that you document mistakes, it is all part of the process & I dislike videos where they zip over the actual steps & hide mistakes. Better to be honest. However you REALLY need to take care of yourself first!

    Yes I did get very lucky. However I was standing as far to the side as I could With my arms fully stretched out which is why I think I avoided getting hurt. Definitely learned my lesson. It’s definitely opened my eyes up to slowing down a little and taking more time to think things through.

    • Upvote 1

  2. 1 hour ago, lookforjoe said:

    That is truly a thing of beauty!!!! :D

     

    .... is the breather port designed to take the factory press-in brass tube & filter?

    Yep you got it. Its to use the P2 style Press in brass tube & filter. The P80 angle gear, as im sure you know, just has this crappy wheep hole that I can see making a mess @ high speeds.

    • Upvote 1

  3. On 5/6/2020 at 8:07 AM, lookforjoe said:

    Nice work! Looking really good so far.

    I had many issues with turbo drainage/back flow with the larger frame turbo - the proximity to the AG really screws with drain flow - largely because it is typically aerated if you are running over stock RPM limits & the standard drain ID is way to small when you have to make a hard angle right at the flange. I made several with AN fittings, and they are just too bulky,  in the end I made copper line, that worked great but only lasted a year or so. I also used an RNC-prepped block, so at some point I switched to the later drain port, and used the stock port as another vent. A large bore (over 5/8) , rigid pipe drain design would be ideal. Having the 'reservoir' helped allow for the aeration, vs. straight bore.

    with the DP, you definitely want the prop shaft & flange in place before you fabricate, since the DP has to tuck around it - this is the basic shape that worked for me through several iterations. I should strongle recommend adding a flex coupler up there, given the amount of torque you are placing on the drivetrain. With PB account gone, I lost most of my pics. Don't have any that show the flow around the prop shaft. The front CV will cook if you don't have a good air gap. I tried heat wrap on one version -didn't work out for me becuase I had the hood vent, so water was always soaking the header/DP & compromising the setup 

     

     I also had to add a heat shield for the surge tank on mine, with the dual muffler setup the right muffler was too close to the tank

     

    Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo.

    For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (have it mounted in the same location you had yours).

    Pushing along...

    Made some homemade poly bushings for the diff cover since they are NLA:

    Got the rear subframe brackets I designed welded in & the VC mount.

     

    • Upvote 4

  4. 12 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

    Sorry - I wasn't implying it was in any way a better or stronger setup compared to your needs. Just a cool mod.

    Personally, I don't like the Haldex given the shitty power distribution Volvo/VW etc., set it up for, with no provision for close to 50/50 spilt. With my old wagon & VC I got 50/50 as soon as I got around 350AWHP. I think the weak link of the VC is the freewheel mechanism, at least in my experience, that was always the failure point. I guess if the VC leaks, then the loss of the silicone-based fluid would kill it. Perhaps it will overheat & cook when put through your power levels though. Time will tell on that one.

    Back in the 80's I did snap a ring gear (w/Volvo LSD) in two in my old 245TI w/a 50 shot - so it is possible that will fail for you before the housing ever would - I guess that depends on how you can preload the rear to prevent that slack on launch that also exploded my angle drive years ago...

    I am going to be using the VnDeVeer Haldex Controller with VW Haldex on my C30. With his controller, I can tailor the torque split anyway I want. We'll see how it goes, all I know is the setup with the Gen3 controller is still less than stellar, too much front spin. With my wagon, there was no drama, just go - I want that in the C30 :)

     

    Understood. Didn't mean to come off as rude but I've had a lot of backlash from people saying to use a Haldex rear over the P80 and I'm slightly fed up with it 😄 But I understand now.

    My VC is in very very good condition. Before I took everything out of the donor I did the test with a torque wrench and the rear wheels locked and it tested perfectly. Also zero sign of silicone leakage. Since I will be drag racing and roll racing in this car where runs only last 10 seconds or so Im not too concerned about the VC overheating. If this were a road racing / time attack / autocross car I could see it overheating quite frequently.

    Was this a 1030 or 1031 ring gear? You saying Volvo LSD makes me think 1030 as I believe they came way more frequently in those rears. If so the 1031 gear set (in the AWD 1165 rear casing) is much stronger & larger diameter than the 1030 gear set. Ive talked to a few people over the pond and have been told the 1031 gear sets are very strong and are used in drag racing quite frequently over there and they even swap them into American cars (which is funny cause most people swap American rears into cars with the 1031/1041/etc). There is even a guy with the 1165 AWD rear with 1031 gear set & quaife LSD that he is using in his 1000hp Audi UR Quattro.

    3 hours ago, Blockpartie said:

    There are multiple reasons for why Volvo did things in such a way. It's unreasonable to expect a design that had to take into account multiple constraints - price, weight, packaging, production feasibility and volume - to work well when subjected to conditions outside of the design parameters. 

    What adavantage is to be had by welding the freewheeling unit solid? Will changes be made to the braking system to account for the modification?

    No where did I say I expected Volvo to give us bullet proof designs. I was simply stating a fact that their aluminum housings are weak.

    Welding the freewheel unit when it breaks will allow torque to continue to be transferred to the rear through the VC as when it breaks you loose all torque transfer to the rear.

    Not sure whats gonna happen braking wise, but there are plenty of other VC based AWD systems that don't use a FWM and the rear is pretty under braked anyway. Most likely the FWM was introduced in order to provide more stable breaking on ice... as from reading the volvo docs most of the design decisions of the system have been made around driving in snow / ice.

    • Upvote 1

  5. On 4/29/2020 at 11:01 PM, lookforjoe said:

    I'll just leave these here - modified Gen5 Haldex dropped into P80 in Europe - using VW Haldex controller

     

    Screen-Shot-2020-04-29-at-10-56-55-PM.pn

     

    This is pretty interesting and I have a few thoughts.

    After seeing Volvo's horrible track record with cast aluminum casings (P80 & P2 angle gear) I can't see something like this being able to withstand the amount of torque & power my setup makes and being able to reliability launch at full power on a prepped surface with slicks. The goal here is a 800hp+ launchable car with repeatability. In my opinion Volvo seems to cheap out on not only the quality of the castings of their aluminum housings but also the design and just make it barely strong enough to work but to keep it as light weight as possible (lots of webbing & thin walls).

    On a hard AWD launch due to the front lifting a majority of the torque is usually transferred through the rear meaning the rear needs to able to withstand full engine torque in 1st gear. I get angle gear nightmares thinking about 700-800nm engine torque being sent through that thing.

    In terms of raw  strength and reliability I don't think the P80 Cast Iron 1165 diff casing coupled with an aftermarket LSD & 960 MKI axles can be beat.

    I am however not writing off the Haldex part of it. I think having Haldex would be awesome, but with a P80 rear diff. I have started putting together designs of a custom housing (with its own oil supply & adapter shaft) to adapt a GEN3 AOC to the P80 rear diff. I will pursue this further if the viscous coupler proves to be the next weak link in my drivetrain.

    A break down of the drive train so far...

    1. P2 23 Spline M58 (this combo has been proven to do 800-900bhp AWD and run 9 sec 1/4 mile)
      1. 23 Spline M56HK 4.00 gear set
      2. 23 Spline M56H Stronger 3rd gear from a p1
      3. Quaife LSD
    2. My billet angle gear case design (1000nm engine tq in all gears / 4000nm output torque capable which is 2.66x stronger than volvos strongest AWD on the diesels which is 1500nm angle gear output capable & 4-5x stronger than the P80 & P2 unit)
    3. Stock viscous coupler with welded freewheel unit
    4. 1165 AWD rear diff housing (same as 960 1055/1065) coupled with TruTrac LSD & 27 spline adapter flanges & 960 MKI axles (thicker shaft & CVs over AWD axles, higher spline count)

     

    • Upvote 2

  6. On 4/13/2020 at 8:41 AM, tuner4life said:

    I think I just had a PTSD episode looking at that bare subframe. It takes a ton of work to get that mess apart and cleaned up. Great work!

    It was so much friggin work. Pressing out / burning out all of the bushings and then pressing in all of the new ones was an insane amount of work... not to mention cleaning up the whole thing and replacing everything. Should be worth it though, every single part is going to be brand new and replaced.

    More updates. Going with a true LSD in the rear. None of the stock G80 locker crap that breaks.

     

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 2

  7. On 11/17/2019 at 10:44 AM, 98s70t5mvt said:

    Finally finished up last night..

    After getting it together and finding the thermostat housing was leaking like crazy. So pulled the ps pump yet again etc etc.

    After some gasket repair and couple more hours hoods on, axles nuts tight, and got to run it throught heat cycle.

    Was about midnight by the time I finished all in all took about 50 hours for full rn swap.

    Mind you was my first motor remove/replace ever and most my auto mechanical skills startes with this car in June.

    Was going ti throw on a 19t straight flange they have all over ebay but the 04 t9 motor came with a 60k mile 16t turbo.

    I'll drain oil tonight after few heat cycles add some more coolant and get some data logs for aaron.

    I ran wires from rear o2 to vvt solenoid since im not using any stock o2 and hust the wideband. Havent plugged to power solenoid yet til I get the correct tune.

    All in all wish i had taken more pics but im just glad it works lol. 

    Thanks guys not this thread specifically but all the guys from this site inspired me and answered a lot of my ? Through reading problems of there own.

    Simply, Hussein, Sconeman, Aaron and few more all convinced me the volvo was the project for me...

    Congrats!

    Glad i could help provide some inspiration!


  8. 6 hours ago, wackou said:

    I've said this before - what a great build!

    Didn't see any info about what engine mounts are you using. The bottom ones. In my T4 I have very rock solid poly bushings, but it causes really strong and annoying vibrations from 3000 RPM. I'd love to have alternative solution. Any ideas?

    I also asked that in your Youtube - why 3rd gear pull in dyno? We always do 4th gear. 

    Volvo OEM hydrualic mounts on the sides and the MRPE.se solid mount on the front (near harmonic balancer).

    3rd gear for heat management. Not the best fan setup.

    4th would probably be absolutely fine but i can collect plenty of data during a 3rd.


  9. 17 hours ago, gdog said:

    Seems a zener would be a more appropriate solution, no?  Thinking two zener diodes back to back (maybe a resistor in between) across the VR sensor leads?

    I don’t think a zener diode would work. That would actually clip the AC sine wave. I simply want to reduce the amplitude. 

    A resistor across the VR sensor lead works fine, you just need to choose the lowest value resistor that doesn’t give you problems at low rpm. I was running too high of a value (10k). Switching to 3.3k 1/3rd the amplitude and fixed the problem.


  10. On 7/15/2019 at 12:04 AM, gdog said:

    Awesome results!

    Wasn't sure what you meant by "synch loss" but then found this link:  https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/megasquirt-vr/

    Now I see.  Good shielding on the VR sensor?

    Thanks!! The issue actually ended up being too big of a shunt resistor (resistor wired in parallel between the + and - leg of the VR sensor. The voltage was getting too high at high rpm and the decoding circuit would overload.

    I switched from a 10k to a 3.3k and it has solved the issue (atleast on the street). This will 1/3 the voltage.

    On 7/15/2019 at 10:16 AM, Kevin. said:

    you gonna shave yet? 


    congratulations dude, you now (probably) have the most powerful P80 in America

    Nope, not yet. I work remote for my company, so gonna keep looking like a bum. 😂

    On 7/16/2019 at 1:26 AM, B_Dub said:

    That’s just nuts, so stoked for you! There’s so much room to go on your setup, can’t wait to see you turn the wick up, big(ger) numbers to come for sure!

    Awesome work!

    Thank you!!

    Definitely a lot more power in it!

    On 7/16/2019 at 7:46 AM, tuner4life said:

    This is so rad!! Nice work!

    Thanks!!

    On 7/16/2019 at 8:44 AM, gmsgltr said:

    Just watched the entire video - wow

    The dyno paperwork says you have a 4cyl haha 😛

    Also thought it was funny the habit of putting your seat belt on when you got back in once to dyno haha then you quickly took it off

    ^im only picking at you now because, well, you have a 600whp t5r!!!!!!!!!!!!!! congrats man - i bet this feels really good after all the hard work and unfortunate set backs along the way

    Shhh dont tell anyone its a 5 cyl.

    Yeah I kept doing that. I would throw on the belt and be like wait wtf am i doing.

    On 7/18/2019 at 10:43 AM, Commander Riker said:

    Probably one of the cleanest high power builds I've seen ever.  Thanks for putting so much about it up on youtube.  Have a lot to go back and watch.

    Thanks!

    I really enjoy producing the YouTube videos and I think others do as well. I really want to try and take the channel to the next level. Theres SOOOO many Honda, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Supra, BMW channels, its time for a legit Volvo one.