Simply Volvo

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Posts posted by Simply Volvo


  1. 1 hour ago, lookforjoe said:

    I wouldn't use corrugated tube  -  I did try that for a couple versions - the corrugations are not helpful for oil foam

     

    I just found a piece of thin wall aluminum tube that was a snug fit over the inlet -  I never made a note of it, sorry

     

    Add the safety ground sleeve - and + - are reversed.

     

    Cut a small opening in the underside of the case near the bottom (not shown), since the DW has no secondary pickup for fuel residing inside the pump housing

     

    Thanks for always taking the time to write up such details posts. I appreciate the insight & help greatly. I made some progress on the oil drain tonight. Ill post up a few pictures when I get things tacked up. I was able to use some 1" OD aluminum tubing to basically shoot the drain directly towards the firewall and then 180 around and switch to 12AN braided hose. It mains a downhill the entire time including when its going towards the fire wall and bending around the 180.

    The FWD 12AN drain to the oil pan was so much easier & worked so freaking well! Oh well though, there is a lot going on back there with the turbo and angle gear so its going to take some extra work.

    1 hour ago, andyb5 said:

    Matt, for the dw300 install - Ben McNally (@B Mac) sells custom-machined sleeves to fit the pump into the stock pickup. He has them ready to ship if you shoot him a message. I bought one for my car that I hope to install soon 

    Thanks! I set him a message on Facebook.

    • Upvote 2

  2. 48 minutes ago, lookforjoe said:

    Nice work! I could have told you better to check the freeplay / movement in gears using either the assembled AG, an axle  or even an old clutch disc- as you found, hold the input shaft you don't have enough leverage to overcome the gear ratios :D

    With the oil drain, better to avoid 90's - if you can keep a slight downhill all the way it's gonna be better - remember that you are dealing with oil foam when running high load/rpm, not just oil flow.

    Thank Hussein!

    Yes the oil drain is something I need to continue playing around with. I found this piece which might order up and try. Its a flexible turbo oil drain. It might allow me to get a better angle off the turbo. Then I can weld on an AN fitting or something.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdd-1453106

    On a side note... Hussein I kinda remember the mods you made to your AWD fuel pump sender to fit a DW300 but all of the links to the pictures are dead... from what I remember the pump outlet fits the sender fine, but you had to make a spacer on the pump inlet in order to hookup the strainer screen? Do you remember the ID of that spacer?

    • Upvote 1

  3. 1 hour ago, andyb5 said:

    I’m a bit late to ask, but do the CV adapter flanges you designed for the rear diff accomplish the same thing as these flanges Ben sells?

     https://www.bneshop.com/collections/1995-1998-960-s90-v90/products/700-900-irs-mki-mkii-27-spline-axle-adapter

    Yes. The flanges he sells are made by a company called Bakaxle who no longer make them and have told me they never will again... or I would've got them from Ben. Not sure why they are still on his site.


  4. On 7/2/2020 at 8:21 AM, lookforjoe said:

    Dang Matt - once those height pins started bending, you should have stopped using that press. Very lucky you didn't kill yourself dude. IF you do repair the jack for jobs under 20 tons, I have found that the x70 AWD axle shaft fits in the press frame height holes. I cut a pair of dead axles down to a suitable length & use them with my 20 ton press. Much better steel than the HF-supplied crap. I appreciate that you document mistakes, it is all part of the process & I dislike videos where they zip over the actual steps & hide mistakes. Better to be honest. However you REALLY need to take care of yourself first!

    Yes I did get very lucky. However I was standing as far to the side as I could With my arms fully stretched out which is why I think I avoided getting hurt. Definitely learned my lesson. It’s definitely opened my eyes up to slowing down a little and taking more time to think things through.

    • Upvote 2

  5. 1 hour ago, lookforjoe said:

    That is truly a thing of beauty!!!! :D

     

    .... is the breather port designed to take the factory press-in brass tube & filter?

    Yep you got it. Its to use the P2 style Press in brass tube & filter. The P80 angle gear, as im sure you know, just has this crappy wheep hole that I can see making a mess @ high speeds.

    • Upvote 1

  6. On 5/6/2020 at 8:07 AM, lookforjoe said:

    Nice work! Looking really good so far.

    I had many issues with turbo drainage/back flow with the larger frame turbo - the proximity to the AG really screws with drain flow - largely because it is typically aerated if you are running over stock RPM limits & the standard drain ID is way to small when you have to make a hard angle right at the flange. I made several with AN fittings, and they are just too bulky,  in the end I made copper line, that worked great but only lasted a year or so. I also used an RNC-prepped block, so at some point I switched to the later drain port, and used the stock port as another vent. A large bore (over 5/8) , rigid pipe drain design would be ideal. Having the 'reservoir' helped allow for the aeration, vs. straight bore.

    with the DP, you definitely want the prop shaft & flange in place before you fabricate, since the DP has to tuck around it - this is the basic shape that worked for me through several iterations. I should strongle recommend adding a flex coupler up there, given the amount of torque you are placing on the drivetrain. With PB account gone, I lost most of my pics. Don't have any that show the flow around the prop shaft. The front CV will cook if you don't have a good air gap. I tried heat wrap on one version -didn't work out for me becuase I had the hood vent, so water was always soaking the header/DP & compromising the setup 

     

     I also had to add a heat shield for the surge tank on mine, with the dual muffler setup the right muffler was too close to the tank

     

    Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo.

    For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (have it mounted in the same location you had yours).

    Pushing along...

    Made some homemade poly bushings for the diff cover since they are NLA:

    Got the rear subframe brackets I designed welded in & the VC mount.

     

    • Upvote 4

  7. 12 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

    Sorry - I wasn't implying it was in any way a better or stronger setup compared to your needs. Just a cool mod.

    Personally, I don't like the Haldex given the shitty power distribution Volvo/VW etc., set it up for, with no provision for close to 50/50 spilt. With my old wagon & VC I got 50/50 as soon as I got around 350AWHP. I think the weak link of the VC is the freewheel mechanism, at least in my experience, that was always the failure point. I guess if the VC leaks, then the loss of the silicone-based fluid would kill it. Perhaps it will overheat & cook when put through your power levels though. Time will tell on that one.

    Back in the 80's I did snap a ring gear (w/Volvo LSD) in two in my old 245TI w/a 50 shot - so it is possible that will fail for you before the housing ever would - I guess that depends on how you can preload the rear to prevent that slack on launch that also exploded my angle drive years ago...

    I am going to be using the VnDeVeer Haldex Controller with VW Haldex on my C30. With his controller, I can tailor the torque split anyway I want. We'll see how it goes, all I know is the setup with the Gen3 controller is still less than stellar, too much front spin. With my wagon, there was no drama, just go - I want that in the C30 :)

     

    Understood. Didn't mean to come off as rude but I've had a lot of backlash from people saying to use a Haldex rear over the P80 and I'm slightly fed up with it 😄 But I understand now.

    My VC is in very very good condition. Before I took everything out of the donor I did the test with a torque wrench and the rear wheels locked and it tested perfectly. Also zero sign of silicone leakage. Since I will be drag racing and roll racing in this car where runs only last 10 seconds or so Im not too concerned about the VC overheating. If this were a road racing / time attack / autocross car I could see it overheating quite frequently.

    Was this a 1030 or 1031 ring gear? You saying Volvo LSD makes me think 1030 as I believe they came way more frequently in those rears. If so the 1031 gear set (in the AWD 1165 rear casing) is much stronger & larger diameter than the 1030 gear set. Ive talked to a few people over the pond and have been told the 1031 gear sets are very strong and are used in drag racing quite frequently over there and they even swap them into American cars (which is funny cause most people swap American rears into cars with the 1031/1041/etc). There is even a guy with the 1165 AWD rear with 1031 gear set & quaife LSD that he is using in his 1000hp Audi UR Quattro.

    3 hours ago, Blockpartie said:

    There are multiple reasons for why Volvo did things in such a way. It's unreasonable to expect a design that had to take into account multiple constraints - price, weight, packaging, production feasibility and volume - to work well when subjected to conditions outside of the design parameters. 

    What adavantage is to be had by welding the freewheeling unit solid? Will changes be made to the braking system to account for the modification?

    No where did I say I expected Volvo to give us bullet proof designs. I was simply stating a fact that their aluminum housings are weak.

    Welding the freewheel unit when it breaks will allow torque to continue to be transferred to the rear through the VC as when it breaks you loose all torque transfer to the rear.

    Not sure whats gonna happen braking wise, but there are plenty of other VC based AWD systems that don't use a FWM and the rear is pretty under braked anyway. Most likely the FWM was introduced in order to provide more stable breaking on ice... as from reading the volvo docs most of the design decisions of the system have been made around driving in snow / ice.

    • Upvote 1

  8. On 4/29/2020 at 11:01 PM, lookforjoe said:

    I'll just leave these here - modified Gen5 Haldex dropped into P80 in Europe - using VW Haldex controller

     

    Screen-Shot-2020-04-29-at-10-56-55-PM.pn

     

    This is pretty interesting and I have a few thoughts.

    After seeing Volvo's horrible track record with cast aluminum casings (P80 & P2 angle gear) I can't see something like this being able to withstand the amount of torque & power my setup makes and being able to reliability launch at full power on a prepped surface with slicks. The goal here is a 800hp+ launchable car with repeatability. In my opinion Volvo seems to cheap out on not only the quality of the castings of their aluminum housings but also the design and just make it barely strong enough to work but to keep it as light weight as possible (lots of webbing & thin walls).

    On a hard AWD launch due to the front lifting a majority of the torque is usually transferred through the rear meaning the rear needs to able to withstand full engine torque in 1st gear. I get angle gear nightmares thinking about 700-800nm engine torque being sent through that thing.

    In terms of raw  strength and reliability I don't think the P80 Cast Iron 1165 diff casing coupled with an aftermarket LSD & 960 MKI axles can be beat.

    I am however not writing off the Haldex part of it. I think having Haldex would be awesome, but with a P80 rear diff. I have started putting together designs of a custom housing (with its own oil supply & adapter shaft) to adapt a GEN3 AOC to the P80 rear diff. I will pursue this further if the viscous coupler proves to be the next weak link in my drivetrain.

    A break down of the drive train so far...

    1. P2 23 Spline M58 (this combo has been proven to do 800-900bhp AWD and run 9 sec 1/4 mile)
      1. 23 Spline M56HK 4.00 gear set
      2. 23 Spline M56H Stronger 3rd gear from a p1
      3. Quaife LSD
    2. My billet angle gear case design (1000nm engine tq in all gears / 4000nm output torque capable which is 2.66x stronger than volvos strongest AWD on the diesels which is 1500nm angle gear output capable & 4-5x stronger than the P80 & P2 unit)
    3. Stock viscous coupler with welded freewheel unit
    4. 1165 AWD rear diff housing (same as 960 1055/1065) coupled with TruTrac LSD & 27 spline adapter flanges & 960 MKI axles (thicker shaft & CVs over AWD axles, higher spline count)

     

    • Upvote 2

  9. On 4/13/2020 at 8:41 AM, tuner4life said:

    I think I just had a PTSD episode looking at that bare subframe. It takes a ton of work to get that mess apart and cleaned up. Great work!

    It was so much friggin work. Pressing out / burning out all of the bushings and then pressing in all of the new ones was an insane amount of work... not to mention cleaning up the whole thing and replacing everything. Should be worth it though, every single part is going to be brand new and replaced.

    More updates. Going with a true LSD in the rear. None of the stock G80 locker crap that breaks.

     

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 2

  10. On 11/17/2019 at 10:44 AM, 98s70t5mvt said:

    Finally finished up last night..

    After getting it together and finding the thermostat housing was leaking like crazy. So pulled the ps pump yet again etc etc.

    After some gasket repair and couple more hours hoods on, axles nuts tight, and got to run it throught heat cycle.

    Was about midnight by the time I finished all in all took about 50 hours for full rn swap.

    Mind you was my first motor remove/replace ever and most my auto mechanical skills startes with this car in June.

    Was going ti throw on a 19t straight flange they have all over ebay but the 04 t9 motor came with a 60k mile 16t turbo.

    I'll drain oil tonight after few heat cycles add some more coolant and get some data logs for aaron.

    I ran wires from rear o2 to vvt solenoid since im not using any stock o2 and hust the wideband. Havent plugged to power solenoid yet til I get the correct tune.

    All in all wish i had taken more pics but im just glad it works lol. 

    Thanks guys not this thread specifically but all the guys from this site inspired me and answered a lot of my ? Through reading problems of there own.

    Simply, Hussein, Sconeman, Aaron and few more all convinced me the volvo was the project for me...

    Congrats!

    Glad i could help provide some inspiration!


  11. 6 hours ago, wackou said:

    I've said this before - what a great build!

    Didn't see any info about what engine mounts are you using. The bottom ones. In my T4 I have very rock solid poly bushings, but it causes really strong and annoying vibrations from 3000 RPM. I'd love to have alternative solution. Any ideas?

    I also asked that in your Youtube - why 3rd gear pull in dyno? We always do 4th gear. 

    Volvo OEM hydrualic mounts on the sides and the MRPE.se solid mount on the front (near harmonic balancer).

    3rd gear for heat management. Not the best fan setup.

    4th would probably be absolutely fine but i can collect plenty of data during a 3rd.