Simply Volvo

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Posts posted by Simply Volvo


  1. @lookforjoe

    Oh BTW! I think I finally figured out why the surge tank cracked on you long ago when you had your wagon... must be the 40 psi of back pressure inside the tank due to the AWD siphon pump. When I ran the surge tank FWD, I had no issues with any further cracks because the back pressure was probably 0-5 psi. Tank cracked this weekend. Must've been the back pressure.

    I ended up grabbing a DW 3.5L surge tank to replace it. Going to swap over my pumps and fittings. Hopefully it can hold the pressure. Its also anodized inside to prevent corrosion from E85. Maybe the use of E85 also had a role in the cracks. I will also PWM the intank pump using a Solid State Relay to try and limit pressures to only 15-20 psi back pressure. Ill most likely implement a closed loop PID control using a pressure sensor on the surge tank. This way I can target a pressure and it will duty the pump up when the tank needs more fuel to hold a certain pressure (IE engine under significant load). Should be enough to keep the siphon working hopefully but significantly less stress on the surge tank.

    https://www.deatschwerks.com/sites/www.deatschwerks.com/files/DATA/DW3.5L Tech Sheet.pdf

    Surge Tanks

    • Upvote 1

  2. 57 minutes ago, quiksilver said:

    I'm running the TS510s, with a 450lb spring at a similar ride height to you and have had no CV boot issues whatsoever.

    My dampening is set around mid way and it's quite compliant/enjoyable except when carrying heavy loads or the inevitable pot hole via Ontario's god awful roads. I wouldn't change dampening to full stiff just yet, I believe the boots would solve the problem.

    Im using Volvo 960 axles which have a much larger CV so I think that's the reason im having the issues. Stock AWD axle CVs are a lot smaller in diameter so probably why no one else on max low has had this issue.


  3. 2 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

    Matt - did you also increase the ID of the rigid & plastic lines inside the senders? I had done that, along with cutting a chunk out of the main sender housing to allow more rapid drawback into the tank.

    Don't solder any harness connections moving forward - crimp all new terminals.

    I hope that intercooler is not as low as it appears!

    Definitely issues arise when running lowered suspension w/AWD. On my C30, over heavy highway bumps the ear on the CV Oetiker clamp hit the fuel tank filler hose - fortunately didn't cut through the hose in my case. My dampers were also set too soft, and I had to raise the spring seat 1"

    Good deduction on the boot OD & damper settings.

    Did you buy the later AWD front subframe tie brackets (the triangular ones)? They are more substantial than other model & earlier AWD version.

    9480184

    I'd look for a lower profile elbow for the AWD sump - that just looks ripe for snagging & ripping off if you go over any road debris.

     

     

     

    Hey H,

    I did not increase the the ID of the senders (I did cut a chunk out of the sender though). Just used 5/16 -> 3/8 quick connect 90 elbows. I don' think increasing the sender lines is going to significantly lower siphon pump back pressure. The DW300 (340LPH) is just too much fuel volume for the siphon and I have talked to others who have had issues with not being able to go below 40-45 psi fuel pressure. Even with the stock 255 I bet the back pressure is still going to be 25-30 psi. I am simply going to PWM the intank pump and add a pressure sensor to the surge tank and used closed loop control to target X surge tank pressure (the same as siphon back pressure). At idle I will probably only really need 15-20% duty cycle. By targeting siphon back pressure I can effectively fill the surge tank with only as much fuel as it needs at a given moment to maintain proper siphon back pressure and still have it remain effective.

    I did not know there was a different bracket. I noted the PN and will switch to them next time I have the subframe out.

    The intercooler & angle gear elbow are not as low as they appear. The AG 4an 90 actually sits slightly ahove the bottom of the oil pan and the front 850R bumper sits much lower than the intercooler outlet. Been running for 5 years no with no clearance issues.

    On a side note, found the proper boot and got it ordered up... hopefully with the dampening set to max and bump stops I wont have anymore issues.

    • Upvote 1

  4. 51 minutes ago, lookforjoe said:

    Congrats! Must feel good to have got beyond the first run :D

    That coolant sensor (blue tip) is supposed to have a crush washer - did you add one?  Also the oil pump & sender looks really close to the PS rack - I would think under hard launch you may get contact from the torque movement. Did you use a rigid mount under the crank? I had to wire my Volvo mount - back with 500AWHP it just ripped them apart otherwise.

    Make sure you never use that shockproof HD in the transaxle - it will absolutely monkey up your shifts 

    Thanks!

    Yes I added a crush washer to the coolant sensor as well as thread sealant and torqued to 25nm as per the Bosch datasheet.

    The oil pump and senor array have about 1" clearance to the rack. I made some changes to make some more room.

    All 6 engine mounts are Polyeurethane. The engine is basically solidly mounted so Im not too concerned about it moving 3/4-1" and causing contact with the pump. Well see though, this is enough to get me driving for now.

    Shockproof is only going on rear diff and angle gear. Trans fluid is going to be a special concoction.


  5. On 9/14/2020 at 6:54 AM, Boxman said:

    Been a while - do we know the exact way the ECU calculates load? The formula found in the m4.4 datasheet (Q/(n*Ki), with Q = MAF in kg/hr, n=RPM and Ki=injector constant) doesn't seem to be quite right. I can't reproduce logged values of load from logged parameters and injector constant. Missing a factor 26-27 with a random +- 1 component when just putting that in, so which parameters does the ECU use exactly, and in which units, if anyone knows?

    OK so I found my notes on this... kinda... the rest im gonna piece together with my general knowledge of EFI and stuff I found on the internet.

    So you can't just plug in the raw values because we have no idea how M44s constant was calculated and with what units...

    tL(ms) = mL / (n x K1)

    mL is corrected air mass.
    n is engine speed rpm.

    K1 is calculated constant.

    Lets pretend this is how K1 is calculated nCyl*14,7*Qstat[g/min]*0,0000167[ms/min]*60[min/h] / 1000[g/kg]

    Lets try this with 315cc injectors at idle (840rpm & 14kg/hr)

    K1 = 5 * 14.7 * 226g/min * 0.0000167 * 60 / 1000. K1 = .0166

    tL = 14kg/hr / (840 * .0166) = 1ms

    Seems pretty legit. Honestly what I would do is look back at your logs and just try to solve for K (since we have no idea how M44s is calculated or what units it uses) with the units you want to use... it should always remain constant.

    tL(ms) = mL / (n x K1)

    (n * K1) = mL / tL

    K = mL (KG/HR) / tL (ms) / n (RPM)

    Plug values from your log in and you'll always get the same K, then just use that K.

    ~Matt

    • Like 2

  6. On 8/28/2020 at 8:26 AM, lookforjoe said:

    How are you finalizing the oil feed system? Is the pump going to be suspended off the lines, or are you making a bracket to anchor it to the AG? In all likelihood it's probably OK hanging off the rigid pinion line, however I would worry about vibration affecting it over time. What failsafe will you have to monitor the pump over time, or is it intended for the harsh automotive environment?

    I planed on just suspending it off the hard lines... or orienting it and mounting it with a u bracket to the steering rack.

    The pump is a 2-4 psi low pressure fuel lift pump for a carb. Its self priming and can lift 18". Its a diaphragm pump that uses a solenoid to pull and push on the diaphragm so I am not too worried about vibration effecting it... its very very basic with very minial moving parts (diaphragm and check valve balls).

    I will also have both a pressure sensor (to determine pump failure) and oil temperature (to determine heat soak) integrated.


  7. On 8/22/2020 at 8:10 AM, lookforjoe said:

    Coming along nicely. So much crap to organize w/AWD.

    To save yourself some grief - DON'T use copper/alloy line for the exhaust back pressure setup - it will fail. Use stainless brake line & stainless fittings

    Also make sure to add a water trap, or the condensate will kill whatever sensor/gauge you use overtime

    Yes there is sooo much crap to organize with the AWD, especially when the car never had it in the first place!

    I will order up some SS fittings & lines from McMaster.

    Thanks for the advice.

    • Upvote 1

  8. 3 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

    Why not just make a short feed line from the surge tank to the line you already made? Then you wouldn't need to run a new line all the way to the FPR/rail....

    Thats what I ended up doing. My OCD was getting in the way of just extending the existing lines that run up to the bay.

    What a pain running the lines to the surge tank with the AWD subframe and tank. Such little room between  the top of the subframe and body. Took quite some time to make sure nothing was pinched / kinked.


  9. 1 hour ago, lookforjoe said:

    I wouldn't use corrugated tube  -  I did try that for a couple versions - the corrugations are not helpful for oil foam

     

    I just found a piece of thin wall aluminum tube that was a snug fit over the inlet -  I never made a note of it, sorry

     

    Add the safety ground sleeve - and + - are reversed.

     

    Cut a small opening in the underside of the case near the bottom (not shown), since the DW has no secondary pickup for fuel residing inside the pump housing

     

    Thanks for always taking the time to write up such details posts. I appreciate the insight & help greatly. I made some progress on the oil drain tonight. Ill post up a few pictures when I get things tacked up. I was able to use some 1" OD aluminum tubing to basically shoot the drain directly towards the firewall and then 180 around and switch to 12AN braided hose. It mains a downhill the entire time including when its going towards the fire wall and bending around the 180.

    The FWD 12AN drain to the oil pan was so much easier & worked so freaking well! Oh well though, there is a lot going on back there with the turbo and angle gear so its going to take some extra work.

    1 hour ago, andyb5 said:

    Matt, for the dw300 install - Ben McNally (@B Mac) sells custom-machined sleeves to fit the pump into the stock pickup. He has them ready to ship if you shoot him a message. I bought one for my car that I hope to install soon 

    Thanks! I set him a message on Facebook.

    • Upvote 2

  10. 48 minutes ago, lookforjoe said:

    Nice work! I could have told you better to check the freeplay / movement in gears using either the assembled AG, an axle  or even an old clutch disc- as you found, hold the input shaft you don't have enough leverage to overcome the gear ratios :D

    With the oil drain, better to avoid 90's - if you can keep a slight downhill all the way it's gonna be better - remember that you are dealing with oil foam when running high load/rpm, not just oil flow.

    Thank Hussein!

    Yes the oil drain is something I need to continue playing around with. I found this piece which might order up and try. Its a flexible turbo oil drain. It might allow me to get a better angle off the turbo. Then I can weld on an AN fitting or something.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdd-1453106

    On a side note... Hussein I kinda remember the mods you made to your AWD fuel pump sender to fit a DW300 but all of the links to the pictures are dead... from what I remember the pump outlet fits the sender fine, but you had to make a spacer on the pump inlet in order to hookup the strainer screen? Do you remember the ID of that spacer?

    • Upvote 1

  11. 1 hour ago, andyb5 said:

    I’m a bit late to ask, but do the CV adapter flanges you designed for the rear diff accomplish the same thing as these flanges Ben sells?

     https://www.bneshop.com/collections/1995-1998-960-s90-v90/products/700-900-irs-mki-mkii-27-spline-axle-adapter

    Yes. The flanges he sells are made by a company called Bakaxle who no longer make them and have told me they never will again... or I would've got them from Ben. Not sure why they are still on his site.


  12. On 7/2/2020 at 8:21 AM, lookforjoe said:

    Dang Matt - once those height pins started bending, you should have stopped using that press. Very lucky you didn't kill yourself dude. IF you do repair the jack for jobs under 20 tons, I have found that the x70 AWD axle shaft fits in the press frame height holes. I cut a pair of dead axles down to a suitable length & use them with my 20 ton press. Much better steel than the HF-supplied crap. I appreciate that you document mistakes, it is all part of the process & I dislike videos where they zip over the actual steps & hide mistakes. Better to be honest. However you REALLY need to take care of yourself first!

    Yes I did get very lucky. However I was standing as far to the side as I could With my arms fully stretched out which is why I think I avoided getting hurt. Definitely learned my lesson. It’s definitely opened my eyes up to slowing down a little and taking more time to think things through.

    • Upvote 2

  13. 1 hour ago, lookforjoe said:

    That is truly a thing of beauty!!!! :D

     

    .... is the breather port designed to take the factory press-in brass tube & filter?

    Yep you got it. Its to use the P2 style Press in brass tube & filter. The P80 angle gear, as im sure you know, just has this crappy wheep hole that I can see making a mess @ high speeds.

    • Upvote 1