Simply Volvo

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Posts posted by Simply Volvo

  1. On 11/17/2019 at 10:44 AM, 98s70t5mvt said:

    Finally finished up last night..

    After getting it together and finding the thermostat housing was leaking like crazy. So pulled the ps pump yet again etc etc.

    After some gasket repair and couple more hours hoods on, axles nuts tight, and got to run it throught heat cycle.

    Was about midnight by the time I finished all in all took about 50 hours for full rn swap.

    Mind you was my first motor remove/replace ever and most my auto mechanical skills startes with this car in June.

    Was going ti throw on a 19t straight flange they have all over ebay but the 04 t9 motor came with a 60k mile 16t turbo.

    I'll drain oil tonight after few heat cycles add some more coolant and get some data logs for aaron.

    I ran wires from rear o2 to vvt solenoid since im not using any stock o2 and hust the wideband. Havent plugged to power solenoid yet til I get the correct tune.

    All in all wish i had taken more pics but im just glad it works lol. 

    Thanks guys not this thread specifically but all the guys from this site inspired me and answered a lot of my ? Through reading problems of there own.

    Simply, Hussein, Sconeman, Aaron and few more all convinced me the volvo was the project for me...


    Glad i could help provide some inspiration!

  2. 6 hours ago, wackou said:

    I've said this before - what a great build!

    Didn't see any info about what engine mounts are you using. The bottom ones. In my T4 I have very rock solid poly bushings, but it causes really strong and annoying vibrations from 3000 RPM. I'd love to have alternative solution. Any ideas?

    I also asked that in your Youtube - why 3rd gear pull in dyno? We always do 4th gear. 

    Volvo OEM hydrualic mounts on the sides and the solid mount on the front (near harmonic balancer).

    3rd gear for heat management. Not the best fan setup.

    4th would probably be absolutely fine but i can collect plenty of data during a 3rd.

  3. 17 hours ago, gdog said:

    Seems a zener would be a more appropriate solution, no?  Thinking two zener diodes back to back (maybe a resistor in between) across the VR sensor leads?

    I don’t think a zener diode would work. That would actually clip the AC sine wave. I simply want to reduce the amplitude. 

    A resistor across the VR sensor lead works fine, you just need to choose the lowest value resistor that doesn’t give you problems at low rpm. I was running too high of a value (10k). Switching to 3.3k 1/3rd the amplitude and fixed the problem.

  4. On 7/15/2019 at 12:04 AM, gdog said:

    Awesome results!

    Wasn't sure what you meant by "synch loss" but then found this link:

    Now I see.  Good shielding on the VR sensor?

    Thanks!! The issue actually ended up being too big of a shunt resistor (resistor wired in parallel between the + and - leg of the VR sensor. The voltage was getting too high at high rpm and the decoding circuit would overload.

    I switched from a 10k to a 3.3k and it has solved the issue (atleast on the street). This will 1/3 the voltage.

    On 7/15/2019 at 10:16 AM, Kevin. said:

    you gonna shave yet? 

    congratulations dude, you now (probably) have the most powerful P80 in America

    Nope, not yet. I work remote for my company, so gonna keep looking like a bum. 😂

    On 7/16/2019 at 1:26 AM, B_Dub said:

    That’s just nuts, so stoked for you! There’s so much room to go on your setup, can’t wait to see you turn the wick up, big(ger) numbers to come for sure!

    Awesome work!

    Thank you!!

    Definitely a lot more power in it!

    On 7/16/2019 at 7:46 AM, tuner4life said:

    This is so rad!! Nice work!


    On 7/16/2019 at 8:44 AM, gmsgltr said:

    Just watched the entire video - wow

    The dyno paperwork says you have a 4cyl haha 😛

    Also thought it was funny the habit of putting your seat belt on when you got back in once to dyno haha then you quickly took it off

    ^im only picking at you now because, well, you have a 600whp t5r!!!!!!!!!!!!!! congrats man - i bet this feels really good after all the hard work and unfortunate set backs along the way

    Shhh dont tell anyone its a 5 cyl.

    Yeah I kept doing that. I would throw on the belt and be like wait wtf am i doing.

    On 7/18/2019 at 10:43 AM, Commander Riker said:

    Probably one of the cleanest high power builds I've seen ever.  Thanks for putting so much about it up on youtube.  Have a lot to go back and watch.


    I really enjoy producing the YouTube videos and I think others do as well. I really want to try and take the channel to the next level. Theres SOOOO many Honda, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Supra, BMW channels, its time for a legit Volvo one.

  5. Hello everyone,

    This build is still alive! I have not given up yet, but I have decided to start posting most of my content to YouTube as its much more engaging and unfortunately this forum isnt as active as it used to be.

    You can checkout one of my latest videos here about a shop I am building to work on my cars.

    Plenty of updates coming on T-5R stuff and hopefully new projects that I have in mind!



    • Like 1

  6. On 8/14/2018 at 12:26 PM, Andzey said:

    Ouu, right... I should guess that... 

    watched the videos, those frogs in the background were always amazing

    @Simply Volvo, could you explain couple things please..

    1) that RNC oil pump. Do you think RN pump lacks performance, or you are going different oil viscosity? Have you also considered T6 oil pump or maybe even examined one? Since T6 has additional section, the pump gears should have more volume

    2) How did you prep the block before painting and assembly? Soda blast, ultrasonic bath or something else?

    3) What CR do you finally achieved?  If more than 10:1 what are the plans avoiding detonation at full boost? 

    4) Doesnt Glyco offer also sputtered main bearings? Maybe you can put some link or description of that coating..

    5) What are final torq values for ARP crank case studs? Why dont you use any thread grease under the nuts? 

    6) what was the compression ring gap out of box before you started gaping them?  overlapping in the cylinder liner?

     7) Did you copper sprayed the OEM MLS HG and them put RTV silicone over the copper spray? Aint this weird in terms of adhesion? IIRC MLS goes clean to bare metal, aint? 


    1. Yes that is the RN / RNC oil pump. It is the highest flowing whiteblock oil pump next to the 5 cyl diesel which isn't available anymore, then next in line in the 6 cyl. Im 99% sure it flows more than the 6 cyl. I did the math and it flows 45% more than the N 5 cyl pump. Probably because of the addition of VVT.

    2. The shop ultra sonic bathed it. After painting I sprayed the stuff out of it with brake clean and cleaned all of the oil galleys with a pipe cleaner.

    3. Final CR was 10.2:1. I run E85 so no problems with detonation.

    4. Im not aware of glyco offering sputtered mains, only sputtered rods. Main bearings are not sensitive to detonation. I used the calico CT-1 coating.

    5. Final torque was 65 ft lb based on ARP instructions. Didn't think to use any grease under the nuts TBH.

    6. The ring gap out of the box was around .016" - .018"

    7. I copper sprayed the MLS gasket, then i put a bead around the perimeter of the block. I did this because the darton sleeves protrude .003" above the deck. The machine shop (who has built a lot of 5 cyl dartons) recommended this to prevent water leaks. On normal stock sleeves I wouldnt have done either because the sleeve is flush with the block.

    On 12/27/2018 at 10:40 AM, gmsgltr said:

    pretty cool man - i read the abstract 

    congrats and looking forward to updates on your car!


    On 12/27/2018 at 10:42 AM, Kevin. said:

    sounds like I need to make a visit to see the beast

    Yeah we should setup a small meetup this spring / summer.

  7. Well, it’s been quite a while but this thread and project has not been forgotten.

    I finished up my masters degree in computer science last week and am on a much needed vacation. If your curious you can read about my thesis here the link to the full write up is at the bottom.

    Starting work soon and will finally have 12/12 months of the year to work on this car instead of 3/12 like I’ve had for the past 5 years while I was working on my bachelors and masters.

    @Andzey I will respond to all of your questions in the next few days.


    • Like 1
    • Upvote 2

  8. 11 hours ago, VulvaS40T4 said:

    We use also only JE pistons in our high power white block engines. :) 700-1000hp 4-5cyl. ;)

    Yeah I saw you and Sute were running them and figured I would give them a try. Their customer service is unbelievable. I must've talked to the guy for 30-45 minutes making sure I had everything right.

    3 hours ago, Andzey said:

    Sounds way better than average engine build here. What rods are intended? Also where are you going to order those 84mm piston rings? Will you trust manufacturer tolerances or gap them by yourself? Anyway you must decide how much gap do you want..

    Going with 147mm 21mm rods. Just gonna use the CXRacing ones. I've never heard of issues with china rods failing (just need to make sure they are within spec and hone if necessary).

    Rings are included in that price break out table. I thought they weren't at first but they are:

    JG1005-3307 1.0-1.2-2.8-84.00 1 103.65 103.65  

    This is a ring set (quantity 5) that already exists as a JE part number. Its the JE Pro Seal that they include with most of their pistons. I assume it was created when sute ordered this 84mm pistons (or someone else).

    I'll defeintely gap the rings myself... that is a given in an engine build. You never just throw the rings in.

    I'll probably go a little loose on the ring end gaps. I believe last time I went .018" and .022"

    Ill probably do whatever JE recommends and grind them with a proper ring end gap grinding tool.


  9. 7 hours ago, Andzey said:

    Awesome! How much to they charge for a set of such full custom pistons? I suppose they are fabricated from a forged builk, not casted. Do you know where are they made? 

    Here was the price break down on mine

    Job Part Information

    Part Number Description Ordered Unit Price Extended Tax
    360421 3.3070 VOLVO MISC 5 124.51 622.55  
    827-2050-21-93C JE STRAIGHT WALL PIN 5 21.76 108.80  
    827-050-MW WIRE LOCK 10 1.36 13.60  
    3346-122 OIL RAIL SUPPORT 5 4.18 20.90  
      PIN FIT 5 4.25 21.25  
    JG1005-3307 1.0-1.2-2.8-84.00 1 103.65 103.65  
    PistonFeature FSR 5 16.00 80.00  
    Service TUFF SKIRT 5 17.00 85.00  
    PistonFeature ACCUM GROOVE 5 2.75 13.75  
    Service EXPEDITE FEE 1 164.00 164.00  
          Total: 1233.50  
      Shipping Not Included     Grand Total: 1233.50


    For what im getting, extremely reasonable. If you remove the FSR design, skirt coating and 7 day expedited cost, your coming in around $900. Pretty close to wiseco and IMO waaaaayyyyyy better quality.

    The pistons are forged and all forgings and cnc machining is done in house in california.

    Definitely a highly under looked piston option for our cars.


    • Upvote 1

  10. For those interested in specs for ordering custom pistons.

    Deck Clerance : -0.4mm (above)

    MLS head gasket thickness : 1.3mm

    MLS head gasket bore : 84mm

    Composite head gasket thickness : 1.5mm

    N Head Combustion Chamber Size : 51cc

    Valve Free Drop Lift : 2.15mm

    Block Height : 220mm

    N Piston Skirt Length : 58mm

    R Piston Skirt Length : 52mm (went with this)

    Below is 84mm, 93.2 crank, 147mm rods (21mm SE), 10:1 compression. FSR with tuff skirt.

    Part Information

    Motor Type VOLVO   Head Type VOLVO   Block Type MISC
    Piston Type Dish - Flat Bottom   Induction Method Gasoline Turbo Charged   Bore 3.3070
    Compression Dist 1.055   Net Volume -1.32   Land Width Top .250
    Land Width Mid .160   Land Width Bot .090   Groove Width Top .040
    Groove Width Mid .048   Groove Width Bot .141   Bot Groove Dia 3.005
    Mid Groove Dia 2.983   Top Groove Dia 3.009   Accumulator Groove Y
    OD Finish Turn Bot Dia 3.3028   Cam Type intercooler   Pin Hole Dia .827
    Pin Length 2.050   Lock Type Code JE Wire .050   Dish or Inv Dome .015
    Mill Pin Boss Width .95   Pin Fit .8273   Tuff Skirt Y
    • Upvote 1

  11. 4 hours ago, andyb5 said:

    Awesome. Happy to see you’re still plugging away on this project Matt.

    What pistons did you order? Does JE offer an FSR piston for our engines? 

    I ordered custom ones. They don't have any off the shelf ones.

    84MM bore, 10:1 compression, 93.2mm crank, 147mm rods, FSR Asymmetrical design with "tough skirt" coating.

    They should be some pretty bad ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD pistons.

    • Upvote 1

  12. Ain't giving up yet!

    This car has to work out eventually.

    Maybe I just need to slow down a little and really start checking things much more carefully (even though I usually do). I should've checked timing with a light and I would've noticed the crank trigger setting I was using (which i got from another 5 cyl user) was wrong.

    Live and learn I guess...

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1

  13. Yeah so the engine is f****cked.

    Basically when I first got megasquirt working I have my crank trigger off by 12 degrees... so the ignition was advanced by 12 degree, so on those first couple WOT pulls it was running 24 degree of timing, so the engine got destroyed by knock. Cracked all the rings, messed up the pistons, spun cyl4 bearing and cracked cyl 4 sleeve... This happened first like 200 miles, I cant believe it did another 1000 miles of HARD driving before letting loose.

    Car always had low compression (120 psi) and smoked a lil and wet pistons, so i guess it makes sens...

    Anyway, 06R block getting 84mm darton sleeves as I speak. JE or CP 84mm 10:1 pistons, 93.2 crank, 147mm rods... etc etc. 2.6L high comp build this time :)

    Ill try and post up some pics of the carnage, cause thats always fun.

    • Upvote 6