Simply Volvo

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Everything posted by Simply Volvo

  1. First drive went well except some small issues with the rear cv boots...
  2. Thanks! Yes I added a crush washer to the coolant sensor as well as thread sealant and torqued to 25nm as per the Bosch datasheet. The oil pump and senor array have about 1" clearance to the rack. I made some changes to make some more room. All 6 engine mounts are Polyeurethane. The engine is basically solidly mounted so Im not too concerned about it moving 3/4-1" and causing contact with the pump. Well see though, this is enough to get me driving for now. Shockproof is only going on rear diff and angle gear. Trans fluid is going to be a special concoction.
  3. OK so I found my notes on this... kinda... the rest im gonna piece together with my general knowledge of EFI and stuff I found on the internet. So you can't just plug in the raw values because we have no idea how M44s constant was calculated and with what units... tL(ms) = mL / (n x K1) mL is corrected air mass. n is engine speed rpm. K1 is calculated constant. Lets pretend this is how K1 is calculated nCyl*14,7*Qstat[g/min]*0,0000167[ms/min]*60[min/h] / 1000[g/kg] Lets try this with 315cc injectors at idle (840rpm & 14kg/hr) K1 = 5 * 14.7 * 226g/min *
  4. I planed on just suspending it off the hard lines... or orienting it and mounting it with a u bracket to the steering rack. The pump is a 2-4 psi low pressure fuel lift pump for a carb. Its self priming and can lift 18". Its a diaphragm pump that uses a solenoid to pull and push on the diaphragm so I am not too worried about vibration effecting it... its very very basic with very minial moving parts (diaphragm and check valve balls). I will also have both a pressure sensor (to determine pump failure) and oil temperature (to determine heat soak) integrated.
  5. Finished final assembly on the last big hurdle that was holding me back from putting the engine back in and starting the car.
  6. Yes there is sooo much crap to organize with the AWD, especially when the car never had it in the first place! I will order up some SS fittings & lines from McMaster. Thanks for the advice.
  7. Finished up the fuel lines. Had to do some clerancing in body to make those bastards fit. πŸ˜„
  8. Thats what I ended up doing. My OCD was getting in the way of just extending the existing lines that run up to the bay. What a pain running the lines to the surge tank with the AWD subframe and tank. Such little room between the top of the subframe and body. Took quite some time to make sure nothing was pinched / kinked.
  9. Got me a rear subframe almost fully installed...
  10. New clutch. Its lighter than a feather and I got it setup perfect!
  11. Thanks for always taking the time to write up such details posts. I appreciate the insight & help greatly. I made some progress on the oil drain tonight. Ill post up a few pictures when I get things tacked up. I was able to use some 1" OD aluminum tubing to basically shoot the drain directly towards the firewall and then 180 around and switch to 12AN braided hose. It mains a downhill the entire time including when its going towards the fire wall and bending around the 180. The FWD 12AN drain to the oil pan was so much easier & worked so freaking well! Oh well though, there is a lo
  12. Thank Hussein! Yes the oil drain is something I need to continue playing around with. I found this piece which might order up and try. Its a flexible turbo oil drain. It might allow me to get a better angle off the turbo. Then I can weld on an AN fitting or something. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdd-1453106 On a side note... Hussein I kinda remember the mods you made to your AWD fuel pump sender to fit a DW300 but all of the links to the pictures are dead... from what I remember the pump outlet fits the sender fine, but you had to make a spacer on the pump inlet in order
  13. Built M58 : M66 Quaife, Reinforcement plate for bearings, P1 M56H 4.25 (strongest volvo gearset out there & steel synchros) and a custom mount to adapt it to the P80 FWD subframe / steering rack.
  14. Yes. The flanges he sells are made by a company called Bakaxle who no longer make them and have told me they never will again... or I would've got them from Ben. Not sure why they are still on his site.
  15. Put the motor back together after a little refresh. Switched from ARP studs (which can cause the water jacket to crack and leak) to VW PD150 grade 12.9 head bolts. Volvo are 10.9 for reference.
  16. Yes I did get very lucky. However I was standing as far to the side as I could With my arms fully stretched out which is why I think I avoided getting hurt. Definitely learned my lesson. It’s definitely opened my eyes up to slowing down a little and taking more time to think things through.
  17. Projects been a little slow waiting on parts, but still going!!
  18. Yep you got it. Its to use the P2 style Press in brass tube & filter. The P80 angle gear, as im sure you know, just has this crappy wheep hole that I can see making a mess @ high speeds.
  19. Got some parts back from manufacturing I designed...
  20. Thanks for the insight Hussein. I am currently using a 12AN drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Its works perfectly... but however Definetly won't work with the AG there like you said. I have a RNC prepped block so I am going to drill out and tap the RNC return since I need to replace my RN oil pan that has the drain bung welded on (hits the AG). Im going to install a 1/2NPT to 12AN and try to 45 or 90 off my turbo. For the DP it looks like a 90, 45, 90. The only have a left side exit exhaust and plan on keeping it that way, so won;t have any problems with heat around the surge tank (hav
  21. Continuing to push on through COVID... Got the FWD stuff out in the rear and finalized my angle gear case and got it out to manufacturing (received the first part last Friday) ...
  22. Understood. Didn't mean to come off as rude but I've had a lot of backlash from people saying to use a Haldex rear over the P80 and I'm slightly fed up with it πŸ˜„ But I understand now. My VC is in very very good condition. Before I took everything out of the donor I did the test with a torque wrench and the rear wheels locked and it tested perfectly. Also zero sign of silicone leakage. Since I will be drag racing and roll racing in this car where runs only last 10 seconds or so Im not too concerned about the VC overheating. If this were a road racing / time attack / autocross car I could s
  23. This is pretty interesting and I have a few thoughts. After seeing Volvo's horrible track record with cast aluminum casings (P80 & P2 angle gear) I can't see something like this being able to withstand the amount of torque & power my setup makes and being able to reliability launch at full power on a prepped surface with slicks. The goal here is a 800hp+ launchable car with repeatability. In my opinion Volvo seems to cheap out on not only the quality of the castings of their aluminum housings but also the design and just make it barely strong enough to work but to keep it as light