Simply Volvo

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Everything posted by Simply Volvo

  1. Yeah that file is crap, don’t use it. That’s when I knew nothing. Should probably just be removed from the wiki tbh.
  2. @Andzey 1. Yes that is the RN / RNC oil pump. It is the highest flowing whiteblock oil pump next to the 5 cyl diesel which isn't available anymore, then next in line in the 6 cyl. Im 99% sure it flows more than the 6 cyl. I did the math and it flows 45% more than the N 5 cyl pump. Probably because of the addition of VVT. 2. The shop ultra sonic bathed it. After painting I sprayed the stuff out of it with brake clean and cleaned all of the oil galleys with a pipe cleaner. 3. Final CR was 10.2:1. I run E85 so no problems with detonation. 4. Im not aware of glyco offering sputtered mains, only sputtered rods. Main bearings are not sensitive to detonation. I used the calico CT-1 coating. https://www.calicocoatings.com/coating-data-sheets/ct-1-dry-film-lubricant/ 5. Final torque was 65 ft lb based on ARP instructions. Didn't think to use any grease under the nuts TBH. 6. The ring gap out of the box was around .016" - .018" 7. I copper sprayed the MLS gasket, then i put a bead around the perimeter of the block. I did this because the darton sleeves protrude .003" above the deck. The machine shop (who has built a lot of 5 cyl dartons) recommended this to prevent water leaks. On normal stock sleeves I wouldnt have done either because the sleeve is flush with the block. Yeah we should setup a small meetup this spring / summer.
  3. Well, it’s been quite a while but this thread and project has not been forgotten. I finished up my masters degree in computer science last week and am on a much needed vacation. If your curious you can read about my thesis here https://web.wpi.edu/Pubs/ETD/Available/etd-121418-102453/ the link to the full write up is at the bottom. Starting work soon and will finally have 12/12 months of the year to work on this car instead of 3/12 like I’ve had for the past 5 years while I was working on my bachelors and masters. @Andzey I will respond to all of your questions in the next few days. ~Matt
  4. Yeah I saw you and Sute were running them and figured I would give them a try. Their customer service is unbelievable. I must've talked to the guy for 30-45 minutes making sure I had everything right. Going with 147mm 21mm rods. Just gonna use the CXRacing ones. I've never heard of issues with china rods failing (just need to make sure they are within spec and hone if necessary). Rings are included in that price break out table. I thought they weren't at first but they are: JG1005-3307 1.0-1.2-2.8-84.00 1 103.65 103.65 This is a ring set (quantity 5) that already exists as a JE part number. Its the JE Pro Seal that they include with most of their pistons. I assume it was created when sute ordered this 84mm pistons (or someone else). I'll defeintely gap the rings myself... that is a given in an engine build. You never just throw the rings in. I'll probably go a little loose on the ring end gaps. I believe last time I went .018" and .022" Ill probably do whatever JE recommends and grind them with a proper ring end gap grinding tool.
  5. Here was the price break down on mine Job Part Information Part Number Description Ordered Unit Price Extended Tax 360421 3.3070 VOLVO MISC 5 124.51 622.55 827-2050-21-93C JE STRAIGHT WALL PIN 5 21.76 108.80 827-050-MW WIRE LOCK 10 1.36 13.60 3346-122 OIL RAIL SUPPORT 5 4.18 20.90 PIN FIT 5 4.25 21.25 JG1005-3307 1.0-1.2-2.8-84.00 1 103.65 103.65 PistonFeature FSR 5 16.00 80.00 Service TUFF SKIRT 5 17.00 85.00 PistonFeature ACCUM GROOVE 5 2.75 13.75 Service EXPEDITE FEE 1 164.00 164.00 Total: 1233.50 Shipping Not Included Grand Total: 1233.50 For what im getting, extremely reasonable. If you remove the FSR design, skirt coating and 7 day expedited cost, your coming in around $900. Pretty close to wiseco and IMO waaaaayyyyyy better quality. The pistons are forged and all forgings and cnc machining is done in house in california. Definitely a highly under looked piston option for our cars.
  6. For those interested in specs for ordering custom pistons. Deck Clerance : -0.4mm (above) MLS head gasket thickness : 1.3mm MLS head gasket bore : 84mm Composite head gasket thickness : 1.5mm N Head Combustion Chamber Size : 51cc Valve Free Drop Lift : 2.15mm Block Height : 220mm N Piston Skirt Length : 58mm R Piston Skirt Length : 52mm (went with this) Below is 84mm, 93.2 crank, 147mm rods (21mm SE), 10:1 compression. FSR with tuff skirt. Part Information Motor Type VOLVO Head Type VOLVO Block Type MISC Piston Type Dish - Flat Bottom Induction Method Gasoline Turbo Charged Bore 3.3070 Compression Dist 1.055 Net Volume -1.32 Land Width Top .250 Land Width Mid .160 Land Width Bot .090 Groove Width Top .040 Groove Width Mid .048 Groove Width Bot .141 Bot Groove Dia 3.005 Mid Groove Dia 2.983 Top Groove Dia 3.009 Accumulator Groove Y OD Finish Turn Bot Dia 3.3028 Cam Type intercooler Pin Hole Dia .827 Pin Length 2.050 Lock Type Code JE Wire .050 Dish or Inv Dome .015 Mill Pin Boss Width .95 Pin Fit .8273 Tuff Skirt Y
  7. I ordered custom ones. They don't have any off the shelf ones. 84MM bore, 10:1 compression, 93.2mm crank, 147mm rods, FSR Asymmetrical design with "tough skirt" coating. They should be some pretty bad ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD pistons.
  8. JE said it was no problem. Pistons have been ordered.
  9. Ain't giving up yet! This car has to work out eventually. Maybe I just need to slow down a little and really start checking things much more carefully (even though I usually do). I should've checked timing with a light and I would've noticed the crank trigger setting I was using (which i got from another 5 cyl user) was wrong. Live and learn I guess...
  10. Yeah so the engine is f****cked. Basically when I first got megasquirt working I have my crank trigger off by 12 degrees... so the ignition was advanced by 12 degree, so on those first couple WOT pulls it was running 24 degree of timing, so the engine got destroyed by knock. Cracked all the rings, messed up the pistons, spun cyl4 bearing and cracked cyl 4 sleeve... This happened first like 200 miles, I cant believe it did another 1000 miles of HARD driving before letting loose. Car always had low compression (120 psi) and smoked a lil and wet pistons, so i guess it makes sens... Anyway, 06R block getting 84mm darton sleeves as I speak. JE or CP 84mm 10:1 pistons, 93.2 crank, 147mm rods... etc etc. 2.6L high comp build this time :) Ill try and post up some pics of the carnage, cause thats always fun.
  11. Simply Volvo

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    From the album: Simply T-5R

  12. Simply Volvo

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    From the album: Simply T-5R

  13. Simply Volvo

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    From the album: Simply T-5R

  14. Simply Volvo

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    From the album: Simply T-5R

  15. F*******CCKKK this car! I... Pulled engine Milled exhaust manifold flat + new nissan turbo gasket (fixed exhaust leak) Installed new shifter cables (fix shifting issues) Order my MS3 PNP REV2 boards Car has been running great for a few days. Was driving it today, did a pull and the car shut off. Got it in a parking lot and MS3 was having trouble syncing. Replugged in the board and it fixed that. Went back home to do a compression test to make sure everything was OK. 90 psi on cyl1, 120 on the rest. They're lower cause of the cams. Looking at cyl 1 plug, the electrode was pushed all the way against the other and some metal marks. Piston was a little wet with oil and a little smoke out exhaust and catch can. Pretty sure I snapped a ring / ring land or melted a piston. This is COMPLETE BS. I reviewed all my logs and everything was perfect and extremely conservative. 14 psi, 11.5 AFR, 12 deg timing, no knock 100f IAT (85 ambient), 93 oct, AFR cut, boost cut all setup, etc. WTF. I guess i need to pull the head now and see whats up. Really getting sick of this.
  16. Yes!!! I have been extremely busy with my first year of graduate school and my masters thesis, I haven't had much time to work on the car or visit the forums. In October, I pulled the oil pan. None of the orings looked messed up and there was no metal in the pan. I cleaned everything out and replaced every oring in the sump (with OEM of course). I capped off my valve cover vents and filled it up with 10w-40 and the issue is pretty much gone. Sometimes it will flicker down for a fraction of a second so I basically just said screw it. I have about 100+ hard pulls to 8500 on the engine and its still together and working perfectly fine @ 1200 miles. I don't think its an issue, maybe just a stuff guage. I also took the car to the drag strip twice. The first time i went I only got in one run. The second time i went i got in 6 runs. My best was 13.3 @ 120mph. I need to continue toying with my launch control as i kept bogging first. I also lost 2,4,R, but I think a shifter cable just snapped and the transmission didnt make any bad noises or grinding and I drove it 50 miles home in 1,3,5. Ill try and post some vids if i have time, i have a bunch. I also found a pretty massive exhaust leak between the turbo and the manifold that I think is killing my spool. Right now it doesn't make full boost until 6000, fixing this leak should bring it down 4500-5000. Unfortunately there is no way to get the turbo off with the engine in the car so I have to pull it. Ill be back home from school in May so my plans are: Pull the engine Pull the trans case (replace cables or trans whatever is broke) Pull oil pump and examine and possible replace (maybe stuck spring is causing weird oil fluctuations?). Switch to a crankcase vacuum pump system (gz motorsports pump with brushless motor controlled via megasquirt closed loop rpm vs map vs crankcase pressure target) New sensor harness (post intercooler IAT, EGT, EBP, fuel pressure, oil pressure) Finish my rev2 megasquirt PNP board. Install dual bosch 044 pumps + 10mm lines Get it on the dyno Get some 24.5x8.5x15 drag slicks and race the living piss out of it this summer cause its finally working ~Matt
  17. 1. I am using a mechanical guage 2. Correct, oil pressure has always been perfect for 700 miles. Dropping redline wouldn't change the oil pressure as right around 5500-6000, is when the pressure will drop from a solid 70-80 down to 45 and flicker around up and down like air is getting in the system or something. 3. I found them in a volvo technical spec sheet on the volvoclub uk website. 15psi at idle, 43 psi @ 3000 and the relief valve opens around 75-80 psi. I am using an 02 RN pan with a brand new filter cartridge and oem blue box filter. I recently replaced the cartridge as there was a chunk of plastic missing from where the filter presses into. I wonder if that got sucked up, crushed by the oil pump and is stuck in the filter screen. 4. Im not comfortable running 45 psi and neither is my machinists, especially when pressure was always 70+ psi for the past 700 miles. Turning from 6500-8500 is a lot of rpm, there is gonna be a lot of flow and building 70+ psi or enough to open the relief shouldnt be a problem. 5. I am using 5-30 cause thats what i always use. I dont think switching to 10-30 (slightly thicker?) will fix the issue and neither does my machinists. Some how air must be getting into the system, or the pickup maybe getting clogged. I had this issue with my stock motor over the winter, car would drive perfect for the first 10 -15 miles until it warmed up, then oil pressure would slowly start dropping. Ended up being a clogged pickup. Just really stumped and honestly quite pissed off. I've been dealing with this stuff for 4 years now and finally when I suck up my pride and take it to a reputable shop, I still have frickin issues. I heat cycled the car today. About 60-70 psi of oil pressure when warming up, then dropped to spec at 15 psi while idling. Didn't drive, dont want to until I can get this resolved. No ticking, no knocking, I know my engine is in great health mechanically. My issue with the oring theory is that I feel like pressure would be lower all over the board, and quite drastically lower and not even be able to build 45 psi. Especially at cold idle when the pressure is 70 psi (even though the oil is thicker). Also i've never heard of anyone collapsing an oil pan oring, only getting them pinched on bad install, which would really cause almost no pressure all across the board.
  18. Yep. 2 oil and filter changes within the first 10 mins of idling / warmup. Then a filter and oil switch to brad penn 30W with zinc. 250 miles of hard decel and varying the rpm, filter and oil change to pennz 5-30 then another 100 and boost. Machinsts said after 250 it's good. Only thing to break in on our engines are the rings. If the machine work is good, bearings, rods etc will be good. He said they run their engines full power and start tuning as soon as the breakin oil is changed. Just keep varying rpm another thousand and switch to synthetic at 3000. Besides my oil pressure flicker above 6000(which just started happening the past 10 miles, so I haven't driven the car at all) engine runs great, tons of power, no metal and no ticking. If something was wrong it would've blown by now, I have a lot of experience with spun bearings becuase of those dumb orings. I think a collapsed o ring is causing the pressure to not be able to build above 40 psi at higher rpm, however it's never went below that so I know no damage has been done. Gotta pull the pan at some point so no driving the car even though cruise oil pressure is still in spec.
  19. Car is still running. About 800 miles on my new megasquirt setup. However, I have now run into a strange oiling issue... yet again. Oil pressure is great on cold start and cruising around until it fully warms up and I do a few pulls. I notcied that globally, the oil pressure is about 5-8 psi lower than it usually is once fully warmed up. Also, after about 6000 rpm pressure drops from 75 down to 40-45 and flickers around. Using 5-30 oil which isnt the problem, because it just started doing this. For the previous 700 miles its been solid, always above spec at 75-80 psi all the way to redline (8500 rpm). I pulled the filter and drained the oil and there is ZERO trace of metal so I know its not any bearings. It must be a clogged pickup(how?) or one of the oil pan orings collapsed and is letting in air. Ill have to drop the pan, which is really annoying cause I paid good money to have the shop put the block together and the oil pan on (but i guess even they can make mistakes)? Other than that it has about 50 hard pulls to 8500rpm @ 14 psi before I noticed this issue. Just really fed up I have to deal with oil issues again. Quite fed up.
  20. Sequential injection and per cylinder measurement / adjustments.
  21. Yeah i guess the last time we saw each other was 4 years ago at carlisle.
  22. Got everything back up and running. 250 miles on the new motor. Fixed my leaks, rattles, bled my brakes, fixed my AC and scheduled inspection!
  23. Still waiting on the engine. Apparently my block is too worn so I need to take a spare to the shop. Hopefully its ready by the end of the week. Did some prep in the mean time. Finished up my ms3 pro PNP modules. Got the car running and everything, they worked out great. Need to make another revision then they should be for sale by the end of august.
  24. Sure. I have a few left. @BlackT5 is testing one for me, in the next week or so, then they will be for sale. I hoping to put together my own LLC and start selling my MS3 boards, Reverse Lockout boards, and I plan on bringing back the paddle shifter project, but this time standalone TCU (more to come later when I finish my other projects). In other news, called the machine shop today and they said the engine should be done by the end of the week! ~Matt