Simply Volvo

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Everything posted by Simply Volvo

  1. Simply Volvo

    IMG_4880.JPG

    From the album: Simply T-5R

  2. Simply Volvo

    IMG_4880.JPG

    From the album: Simply T-5R

  3. Simply Volvo

    IMG_4880.JPG

    From the album: Simply T-5R

  4. F*******CCKKK this car! I... Pulled engine Milled exhaust manifold flat + new nissan turbo gasket (fixed exhaust leak) Installed new shifter cables (fix shifting issues) Order my MS3 PNP REV2 boards Car has been running great for a few days. Was driving it today, did a pull and the car shut off. Got it in a parking lot and MS3 was having trouble syncing. Replugged in the board and it fixed that. Went back home to do a compression test to make sure everything was OK. 90 psi on cyl1, 120 on the rest. They're lower cause of the cams. Looking at cyl 1 plug, the electrode was pushed all the way against the other and some metal marks. Piston was a little wet with oil and a little smoke out exhaust and catch can. Pretty sure I snapped a ring / ring land or melted a piston. This is COMPLETE BS. I reviewed all my logs and everything was perfect and extremely conservative. 14 psi, 11.5 AFR, 12 deg timing, no knock 100f IAT (85 ambient), 93 oct, AFR cut, boost cut all setup, etc. WTF. I guess i need to pull the head now and see whats up. Really getting sick of this.
  5. Yes!!! I have been extremely busy with my first year of graduate school and my masters thesis, I haven't had much time to work on the car or visit the forums. In October, I pulled the oil pan. None of the orings looked messed up and there was no metal in the pan. I cleaned everything out and replaced every oring in the sump (with OEM of course). I capped off my valve cover vents and filled it up with 10w-40 and the issue is pretty much gone. Sometimes it will flicker down for a fraction of a second so I basically just said screw it. I have about 100+ hard pulls to 8500 on the engine and its still together and working perfectly fine @ 1200 miles. I don't think its an issue, maybe just a stuff guage. I also took the car to the drag strip twice. The first time i went I only got in one run. The second time i went i got in 6 runs. My best was 13.3 @ 120mph. I need to continue toying with my launch control as i kept bogging first. I also lost 2,4,R, but I think a shifter cable just snapped and the transmission didnt make any bad noises or grinding and I drove it 50 miles home in 1,3,5. Ill try and post some vids if i have time, i have a bunch. I also found a pretty massive exhaust leak between the turbo and the manifold that I think is killing my spool. Right now it doesn't make full boost until 6000, fixing this leak should bring it down 4500-5000. Unfortunately there is no way to get the turbo off with the engine in the car so I have to pull it. Ill be back home from school in May so my plans are: Pull the engine Pull the trans case (replace cables or trans whatever is broke) Pull oil pump and examine and possible replace (maybe stuck spring is causing weird oil fluctuations?). Switch to a crankcase vacuum pump system (gz motorsports pump with brushless motor controlled via megasquirt closed loop rpm vs map vs crankcase pressure target) New sensor harness (post intercooler IAT, EGT, EBP, fuel pressure, oil pressure) Finish my rev2 megasquirt PNP board. Install dual bosch 044 pumps + 10mm lines Get it on the dyno Get some 24.5x8.5x15 drag slicks and race the living piss out of it this summer cause its finally working ~Matt
  6. 1. I am using a mechanical guage 2. Correct, oil pressure has always been perfect for 700 miles. Dropping redline wouldn't change the oil pressure as right around 5500-6000, is when the pressure will drop from a solid 70-80 down to 45 and flicker around up and down like air is getting in the system or something. 3. I found them in a volvo technical spec sheet on the volvoclub uk website. 15psi at idle, 43 psi @ 3000 and the relief valve opens around 75-80 psi. I am using an 02 RN pan with a brand new filter cartridge and oem blue box filter. I recently replaced the cartridge as there was a chunk of plastic missing from where the filter presses into. I wonder if that got sucked up, crushed by the oil pump and is stuck in the filter screen. 4. Im not comfortable running 45 psi and neither is my machinists, especially when pressure was always 70+ psi for the past 700 miles. Turning from 6500-8500 is a lot of rpm, there is gonna be a lot of flow and building 70+ psi or enough to open the relief shouldnt be a problem. 5. I am using 5-30 cause thats what i always use. I dont think switching to 10-30 (slightly thicker?) will fix the issue and neither does my machinists. Some how air must be getting into the system, or the pickup maybe getting clogged. I had this issue with my stock motor over the winter, car would drive perfect for the first 10 -15 miles until it warmed up, then oil pressure would slowly start dropping. Ended up being a clogged pickup. Just really stumped and honestly quite pissed off. I've been dealing with this stuff for 4 years now and finally when I suck up my pride and take it to a reputable shop, I still have frickin issues. I heat cycled the car today. About 60-70 psi of oil pressure when warming up, then dropped to spec at 15 psi while idling. Didn't drive, dont want to until I can get this resolved. No ticking, no knocking, I know my engine is in great health mechanically. My issue with the oring theory is that I feel like pressure would be lower all over the board, and quite drastically lower and not even be able to build 45 psi. Especially at cold idle when the pressure is 70 psi (even though the oil is thicker). Also i've never heard of anyone collapsing an oil pan oring, only getting them pinched on bad install, which would really cause almost no pressure all across the board.
  7. Yep. 2 oil and filter changes within the first 10 mins of idling / warmup. Then a filter and oil switch to brad penn 30W with zinc. 250 miles of hard decel and varying the rpm, filter and oil change to pennz 5-30 then another 100 and boost. Machinsts said after 250 it's good. Only thing to break in on our engines are the rings. If the machine work is good, bearings, rods etc will be good. He said they run their engines full power and start tuning as soon as the breakin oil is changed. Just keep varying rpm another thousand and switch to synthetic at 3000. Besides my oil pressure flicker above 6000(which just started happening the past 10 miles, so I haven't driven the car at all) engine runs great, tons of power, no metal and no ticking. If something was wrong it would've blown by now, I have a lot of experience with spun bearings becuase of those dumb orings. I think a collapsed o ring is causing the pressure to not be able to build above 40 psi at higher rpm, however it's never went below that so I know no damage has been done. Gotta pull the pan at some point so no driving the car even though cruise oil pressure is still in spec.
  8. Car is still running. About 800 miles on my new megasquirt setup. However, I have now run into a strange oiling issue... yet again. Oil pressure is great on cold start and cruising around until it fully warms up and I do a few pulls. I notcied that globally, the oil pressure is about 5-8 psi lower than it usually is once fully warmed up. Also, after about 6000 rpm pressure drops from 75 down to 40-45 and flickers around. Using 5-30 oil which isnt the problem, because it just started doing this. For the previous 700 miles its been solid, always above spec at 75-80 psi all the way to redline (8500 rpm). I pulled the filter and drained the oil and there is ZERO trace of metal so I know its not any bearings. It must be a clogged pickup(how?) or one of the oil pan orings collapsed and is letting in air. Ill have to drop the pan, which is really annoying cause I paid good money to have the shop put the block together and the oil pan on (but i guess even they can make mistakes)? Other than that it has about 50 hard pulls to 8500rpm @ 14 psi before I noticed this issue. Just really fed up I have to deal with oil issues again. Quite fed up.
  9. Sequential injection and per cylinder measurement / adjustments.
  10. Yeah i guess the last time we saw each other was 4 years ago at carlisle.
  11. Got everything back up and running. 250 miles on the new motor. Fixed my leaks, rattles, bled my brakes, fixed my AC and scheduled inspection!
  12. Still waiting on the engine. Apparently my block is too worn so I need to take a spare to the shop. Hopefully its ready by the end of the week. Did some prep in the mean time. Finished up my ms3 pro PNP modules. Got the car running and everything, they worked out great. Need to make another revision then they should be for sale by the end of august.
  13. Sure. I have a few left. @BlackT5 is testing one for me, in the next week or so, then they will be for sale. I hoping to put together my own LLC and start selling my MS3 boards, Reverse Lockout boards, and I plan on bringing back the paddle shifter project, but this time standalone TCU (more to come later when I finish my other projects). In other news, called the machine shop today and they said the engine should be done by the end of the week! ~Matt
  14. Thanks everyone for the kind words. Mostly just waiting on the machine shop at this point. I think they started this week, so hopefully they can get it done. They've been quite busy. So while im waiting for that i've been working on my MS3 PRO PNP boards. Here are some pics! Tested pretty much everything so its time to order my ms3 pro bare board module. Still have to solder on a few more things such as the CANBUS controller. Here is another board im working on. This taps into the radio speed wire on ME7 P80 M66 swapped cars so that the reverse lockout works on the shifter. ~Matt
  15. Thanks! We totally should... Hopefully later in the summer. Made some more progress today...
  16. Thanks. I really enjoyed video logging and will continue doing it for the rest of the summer (as long as i have content). Its really helping turn this chore back into a hobby by giving me something to enjoy while working on the car. I have decided to switch away from motronic 4.4 for the sole reason of I am sick of having to code and customize everything when I can just go after market and only have to check boxes. While I have developed a true and full speed density conversion for m44, there are still many limitations that I don't feel like coding around anymore. Thanks! Not sure if ive settled on that name (have to look into legal stuff) but the MS3 pro board does state: The licensing for use of the hardware and firmware is included in the cost of the module. There are free versions of TunerStudio and MegaLogViewer that include all features needed to fully calibrate an engine management system using the MS3-Pro Module and firmware, as well as registered (pay) versions of this software that add some bonus features and functionality. So sale of these shouldn't be an issue if i do decided to market them. I made a lot of changes to board layout (looks pretty different). Might post them up later, however they are ready to be sent off the PCB manufacture. I have checked it all about 10 or so times, so im pretty confident 99% of everything should work. ~Matt
  17. Gave video logging a try today... I really like it.
  18. Hello All, I have decided to create a new thread due to how cluttered and confusing the other became. Old Thread: I am back, a college graduate and re-motivated and ready to get this beast running for real this time! Here is a small history of the car: Engine 1: Original Engine with 216K, oil cooler line popped off and sized the engine Engine 2: First fully built engine (pistons, rods, etc) - Metal left over in oil pan caused bearings to spin Engine 3: Second fully built engine - Oil pan oring got pinched because "Right Stuff gasket maker" pushed it out of the recess. Lost oil pressure, spun bearings Engine 4: Stock B5234 with h-beams. Didn't do a good enough job cleaning out the inside, pickup got clogged, lost oil pressure, spun bearings I am now on my 5th engine and will be having my machine shop assemble the shortblock and put on the oil pan. Specs of new engine are as follows: 82mm N engine block (original engine block bored to 82mm( 82mm Wisecos with teflon skirt K1 139.5 connecting rods RN 90mm crank Glyco std Sputtered rod bearings King .010 main bearings I dropped everything off at the machine shop on 5/19/2017. Yesterday, 5/24/2017 i ordered the rest of the parts i need for shortblock and oil pan assembly Oil pan orings Main bolts Volvo sealant Oil pump oring + gasket For those looking for the sputtered bearings i was able to find them here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262810037814?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT These are pretty much the only source I was able to find. For those looking to get K1s at the cheapest price on the internet look here: http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/k1t-044dw21140.html At time of ordering there were 4 sets left and i know one friend who bought a set, so i think there are 2 left. They ship right from wiseco hence why they're so cheap. Lastly, I have been working on a MS3 Pro PNP solution. This includes: Coolant Guage driver Circuit PWM Fuel pump relay driver Full AC with idle compensation EVAP Onboard MCU with CANBUS controller for extension of different devices and built in 8 extra ADC and about 20 extra digital IO Expansion Header Onboard MAP and BARO USB Reverse Polarity Protection Main relay control Its literally plug and play... No hacking up your harness, no creating new wiring harnesses. No external circuits to drive the coolant guage, fuel relay, no switching fuel relays, etc. Hoping to get these out for manufacturing tonight. ~Matt
  19. Simply Volvo

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    From the album: T-5R

  20. Simply Volvo

    bare.png

    From the album: T-5R

  21. http://www.webutils.pl/index.php?idx=conv&charset=cp437 This should work. Select cp437 to ANSI.
  22. This should be a V70 NA file and damos http://droid.arm.ee/volvo/DAMOS/0261204570_1037358289.bin http://droid.arm.ee/volvo/DAMOS/0261204570_1037358289.dam The damos will have to be converted from dot codepage to ansi to be usable.
  23. Sounds like the older 2.10 drivers got overwritten with the newer 2.12 drivers for the VAGCOM cable. This could be from windows updates or plugging in a different device that has a rt232 chipset which could've caused the latest Ftdi drivers to install. The 2.12 drivers will brick any non genuine FTDI rt232 chip by setting the PID to 0000. You can either reflash the chip with a different PID or use modified drivers. I would contact Aaron I believe he has a patched version that accepts devices with the PID 0000.