Simply Volvo

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Posts posted by Simply Volvo

  1. 30 minutes ago, andyb5 said:

    Sign me up for one of those boards if you produce a run of them!!


    I have a few left. @BlackT5 is testing one for me, in the next week or so, then they will be for sale.

    I hoping to put together my own LLC and start selling my MS3 boards, Reverse Lockout boards, and I plan on bringing back the paddle shifter project, but this time standalone TCU (more to come later when I finish my other projects).

    In other news, called the machine shop today and they said the engine should be done by the end of the week!


    • Upvote 1

  2. Thanks everyone for the kind words.

    Mostly just waiting on the machine shop at this point. I think they started this week, so hopefully they can get it done. They've been quite busy.

    So while im waiting for that i've been working on my MS3 PRO PNP boards. Here are some pics! Tested pretty much everything so its time to order my ms3 pro bare board module. Still have to solder on a few more things such as the CANBUS controller.



    Here is another board im working on. This taps into the radio speed wire on ME7 P80 M66 swapped cars so that the reverse lockout works on the shifter.



    • Upvote 4

  3. On 5/27/2017 at 2:12 AM, gdog said:

    Cool!  Quite entertaining; you may have a future in hollywood.. :biggrin:

    Great to see you're back on the horse, and best of luck with this build!

    MS3?!  What, you've given up on M4.4?

    Thanks. I really enjoyed video logging and will continue doing it for the rest of the summer (as long as i have content). Its really helping turn this chore back into a hobby by giving me something to enjoy while working on the car.

    I have decided to switch away from motronic 4.4 for the sole reason of I am sick of having to code and customize everything when I can just go after market and only have to check boxes.

    While I have developed a true and full speed density conversion for m44, there are still many limitations that I don't feel like coding around anymore.

    2 hours ago, BlackT5 said:

    Volsquirt :biggrin:

    Looks great Matt. Best of luck with this time around.

    Thanks! Not sure if ive settled on that name (have to look into legal stuff) but the MS3 pro board does state:

    • The licensing for use of the hardware and firmware is included in the cost of the module.
    • There are free versions of TunerStudio and MegaLogViewer that include all features needed to fully calibrate an engine management system using the MS3-Pro Module and firmware, as well as registered (pay) versions of this software that add some bonus features and functionality.

    So sale of these shouldn't be an issue if i do decided to market them.

    I made a lot of changes to board layout (looks pretty different). Might post them up later, however they are ready to be sent off the PCB manufacture. I have checked it all about 10 or so times, so im pretty confident 99% of everything should work.


    • Upvote 1

  4. Hello All,

    I have decided to create a new thread due to how cluttered and confusing the other became.

    Old Thread:

    I am back, a college graduate and re-motivated and ready to get this beast running for real this time!

    Here is a small history of the car:

    1. Engine 1: Original Engine with 216K, oil cooler line popped off and sized the engine
    2. Engine 2: First fully built engine (pistons, rods, etc) - Metal left over in oil pan caused bearings to spin
    3. Engine 3: Second fully built engine - Oil pan oring got pinched because "Right Stuff gasket maker" pushed it out of the recess. Lost oil pressure, spun bearings
    4. Engine 4: Stock B5234 with h-beams. Didn't do a good enough job cleaning out the inside, pickup got clogged, lost oil pressure, spun bearings

    I am now on my 5th engine and will be having my machine shop assemble the shortblock and put on the oil pan.

    Specs of new engine are as follows:

    1. 82mm N engine block (original engine block bored to 82mm(
    2. 82mm Wisecos with teflon skirt
    3. K1 139.5 connecting rods
    4. RN 90mm crank
    5. Glyco std Sputtered rod bearings
    6. King .010 main bearings





    I dropped everything off at the machine shop on 5/19/2017.

    Yesterday, 5/24/2017 i ordered the rest of the parts i need for shortblock and oil pan assembly

    1. Oil pan orings
    2. Main bolts
    3. Volvo sealant
    4. Oil pump oring + gasket

    For those looking for the sputtered bearings i was able to find them here:

    These are pretty much the only source I was able to find.

    For those looking to get K1s at the cheapest price on the internet look here:

    At time of ordering there were 4 sets left and i know one friend who bought a set, so i think there are 2 left. They ship right from wiseco hence why they're so cheap.

    Lastly, I have been working on a MS3 Pro PNP solution. This includes:

    1. Coolant Guage driver Circuit
    2. PWM Fuel pump relay driver
    3. Full AC with idle compensation
    4. EVAP
    5. Onboard MCU with CANBUS controller for extension of different devices and built in 8 extra ADC and about 20 extra digital IO
    6. Expansion Header
    7. Onboard MAP and BARO
    8. USB
    9. Reverse Polarity Protection
    10. Main relay control

    Its literally plug and play... No hacking up your harness, no creating new wiring harnesses. No external circuits to drive the coolant guage, fuel relay, no switching fuel relays, etc.

    Hoping to get these out for manufacturing tonight.




    • Upvote 9

  5. Sounds like the older 2.10 drivers got overwritten with the newer 2.12 drivers for the VAGCOM cable. This could be from windows updates or plugging in a different device that has a rt232 chipset which could've caused the latest Ftdi drivers to install.

    The 2.12 drivers will brick any non genuine FTDI rt232 chip by setting the PID to 0000. You can either reflash the chip with a different PID or use modified drivers.

    I would contact Aaron I believe he has a patched version that accepts devices with the PID 0000.

    • Upvote 1

  6. 54 minutes ago, gmsgltr said:

    OK... another noob question...

    I am having the same problem as this guy:



    Using the same laptop, same cable, I have loaded tunes and logged before... (Two years ago) and was just able to get VOL-FCR to work and now I can't log anything on TP - any advice?

    Hardware not found means tunerpro hasn't found any emulation hardware such as the ostrich 2.0. You can safely ignore that.

    As for the logging not working, as long as you get connecting... after hitting the data acquisition button, logging should work fine.

  7. Tom,

    Assuming your talking a MAP module in terms of speed density conversion and not closed loop MAP based boost control;  I have developed a full speed density conversion for m44.

    This includes a full rewrite of the load calculation routine and the swapping of the MAF with a MAP sensor of any variety,  and IAT sensor post intercooler and baro sensor.

    It includes:

    0. Modified MAF table

    1. Base load modifier table (VE map)

    2. Target AFR map

    3. IAT correction map 

    4. Baro correction map

    The tuning consists of precalculting the MAP table, target AFR and IAT correction map. Baro map can also be set. 

    Then the process consists of tuning the VE map until you reach your desired target afr map.

    Ive done some preliminary tests with good results, but it still needs some finishing up.

    Ill most likely release it as open source if I finish it. Not sure if I wanna switch EMS' this summer.


    • Upvote 2

  8. 15 minutes ago, Avinitlarge said:

    Ah, Bugger. I was hoping it was going to be easier than that. I wanted to use the input for EBP using a MPX sensor.

    It should still be easy to hookup the EBP output to the baro pin

    Just edit the end of the drive cycle log as so.

    ; 45 KR COUNT
    90 FD CA MOV       DPTR,    #0xFDCA     ; Set DPTR to value
    E0       MOVX      A,       @DPTR       ; Get value to A
    FE       MOV       R6, A                ; Set Parameter Value
    E4       CLR       A
    F0       MOV       @DPTR, A
    ; 46 Baro ADC Reading
    90 FD CA MOV       DPTR,    #0xF8FA    ; Set DPTR to value
    E0       MOVX      A,       @DPTR       ; Get value to A
    FE       MOV       R7, A                ; Set Parameter Value
    ; SEND 3 BYTES
    12 86 28 LCALL     CODE_8628            ; Send 3 Bytes
    7D AA    MOV       R5, #0xAA
    7E 55    MOV       R6, #0X55
    ; SEND 2 BYTES
    12 86 17 LCALL     CODE_8617            ; Send 2 Bytes
    ; BYE
    22       RET   

    Then in your ADX, add another logging parameter with offset 46. This will log the ADC value of that pin (0-255).

    Make sure to also turn off baro diagnostics. Once that is done it will automatically use an incase of failure value just like the other sensors.

    I can do this for you if you want to send over the ADX and BIN.

  9. 1 hour ago, Avinitlarge said:

    Does anyone know the offset to add the baro/ambient pressure sensor to the ADX?

    There is no offset, since that parameter is never logged in the drive cycle log code.

    You'll need to add a statement at the end of the drivecycle code to send over another parameter, then it would be offset 46.

    Quickly browsing through the damos I found these three:

    /UMP,%UR_RAM1,XFHO,{height-factor from the pressure sensor, normalized |FKT128|},$F8F2,1,51,FKT128,3,$00FF,K;
    /UMP,%UR_RAM1,XFHOKST,{ Height correction for injection start          |umr:fkt128|},$F8D2,1,51,FKT128,3,$00FF,K;
    /UMP,%UR_RAM1,XFHOORG,{original ADC value of high altitude sensor},$F8FA,1,267,U_8B_ADC,3,$00FF,K;

    The baro sensor is kind of weird... there is no kpa value (atleast I think), instead they normalize the ADC reading between 0 and 2 using FKT128. Then that normalized value is used as the Y axis for the altitude correction factor.

    Its also possible the normalization might be to bar (0-2). Not sure, but I would start with logging /UMP,%UR_RAM1,XFHO,{height-factor from the pressure sensor, normalized |FKT128|},$F8F2,1,51,FKT128,3,$00FF,K; and see if you can make sense of the value.


  10. 59 minutes ago, dougy said:


    absolutely fantastic work doughy...

    Looks like a very good transition between the housing and the waste gate, pretty close to a 45ish...

    Do you think the .63AR hot side will limit you in respects to EGT and EBP?

    I couldn't get above 20 psi on my .63ar .50 trim without encountering some pretty bad knock on 93 oct.. Im talking 25 degrees total about 5 degrees per cylinder.

    I believe you have methanol injection so you shouldn't have any issue.


  11. 38 minutes ago, Avinitlarge said:

    Found it straight away, on A20 there is a cap then some resistors, just feed the signal in after the first resistor. Shame it won't display rpm etc


    it will display RPM etc, forgot to change the wheel type

    Good stuff. Wish I would've brought my ecu up to school now...

    Is there any additional circuitry after the filter cap / current limiting resistors? I assume these are used to clamp the high AC voltage that is output at high rpm and was probably smoothing out the output from the arduino too much. Where does the trace go to after the cap / resistors? MCU or SCL? 

  12. 16 minutes ago, Avinitlarge said:

    Ive decided to forget about it. Needs a lot of code altering and adding which I can't do. Needs and extra circuit building which will end up costing about £80 in parts, Its just not worth bothering with for the little use it will get.

    Idea Scrapped, not unless someone comes up with something nice and simple

    Why not trace the circuit and see if the VR sensor input goes to any ICs. Look up the integrated circuit datasheet and see if its some sort of conditioner. Find the output pin and simply tap into that, this way you can just feed it a 0-5 square wave that's already conditioned.

  13. Very interesting that feeding it a square wave even works at all.

    From my understanding, the VR sensor outputs a variable frequency AC sine wave, where amplitude (voltage) increases with engine RPM. This then goes through some sort of condition circuit such as a opamp (zero crossing detector) which converts this to a square wave which is much easier for the micro controller to understand.

    I would look into creating a power inverter type of circuit where you use two transistors, one to represent each output wire (2) of the VR sensor. I don't think it would be necessary to implement a full sine wave, but you could probably get away with a modified sine wave (sine wave in the form of a square wave), so you dont have to implement any massive LUTs (look up tables).

    Another option would be to screw the AC and take a DC square wave approach with 2 transistors like piet has. This will allow for the voltages of 0, 2.5 and 5v which will be useful for implementing the missing tooth (2.5V).

    Look at this document for more information on the above

    The came sensor should be fairly easily to implement and its either on or off (0V or 5V).

  14. Had some time to read through all of the fiat stuff. Very cool stuff going on.

    I really like how you use other parts from other cars (s2000 seats, x70 center console, x70 warning lights in the dash, etc).

    Speechless on the body work for just doing it at home! Looks fantastic.

    Will you be bringing this car to Carlisle this year?

    • Upvote 1

  15. @Boxman

    First I would try retarding your cam intake timing another 2 degrees for a total of -4 degrees. This has seemed to help a lot of people in reducing knock in the mid-range area.

    Also what are your coolant temperatures looking like? Switching from the stock 87C thermostat to 70C thermostat has helped me a lot with keeping my engine running cooler and with knock.

    Really though, it sounds like the exhaust side of your turbo is maxed out. I ran a Garret T04E .50 trim with a .63AR exhaust housing. That turbo is very similar in size to yours. After about 20 psi I had the same exact issue you are having. I was getting horrible amounts of knock around 4800-5000 (AFR's were in tact) and I believe this is because my Exhaust back pressure was greater than my intake back pressure (boost). I was barely able to run any timing 2-6 degrees BTDC.

    I highly recommended tapping and drilling your exhaust manifold for a exhaust gas temperature sensor as well as an exhaust back pressure sensor. You should be able to with the turbo still attached, I think there will be enough room to get a drill under there and tap. These two sensors will be key in helping you determine if your detonation is from a maxed out hotside.

    If high EBP is the case, you will either need to upgrade your exhaust housing (the next step would be getting a 0.72ar cosworth internal housing or a 0.82ar internal 5 bolt housing). Other than that, I would turn the boost down until you can run 8-9 degrees in that area where you are experiencing the knock. I have personally noticed, and i am sure others have that higher ignition timing and lower boost will not only be more safe but also make more power than higher boost and very low timing.

    The last option is to use a higher octane fuel that will be able to handle the higher EBP or another solution such as water/methanol injection (but IMO this is a band aid for a mismatched setup).

    • Upvote 1