tuner4life

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tuner4life last won the day on February 22

tuner4life had the most liked content!

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About tuner4life

  • Rank
    Level 3 Member
  • Birthday 06/06/1989

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Vehicles!

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  • Location
    Indiana
  • Crew
    MWC

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  1. Put the Comets and R bumper back on in preparation for spring (it got into the 60s last week..) Then it snowed.
  2. Holy crap man!!! This is outstanding!!
  3. This thing is so cool! So much work and attention to detail! Great job!
  4. Haven't been driving this much over the last year due to kids being hard to put in the back, and some lingering maintenance issues.. Well, I'm hoping to get it back to 100% by mid summer. There was a camshaft seal leak that has compromised the timing belt. I don't anticipate a problem immediately, but that needs to all be replaced in the near future. The suspension and brakes are also in need of some attention. This sill be a slow project like everything I touch, but I did grab a set of Maxpeedingrods coilovers.. Couldn't argue with the price, and I had a chance to try them out on a different P80 in person and I was very impressed. They seem to be getting good reviews from other P80 owners as well, so I'm going to give them a shot.. The biggest complaint I hear is that they rust kind of fast, but since this car never gets driven in the winter anymore, and I don't mind keeping them lubed, they should be fine. More coming in the near future..
  5. Over the past weekend, I went up to a friend's place who is also into Volvos.. Met up with Dan Maley and let the Saffrons have a little quality time together ;) Nothing much else to note at this point. Winter mode is still in full effect, I pulled my annual stunt of ripping the rear splash shields off in a large puddle again. Salvaged the right side and am in need of another left.. Upcoming summer plans are going to include: -Stereo system -Tweak rear springs (currently on cut R springs and Euro Nivos with drop bolts. It's a litttle bouncy, I want to try Trimmed XC springs and see if it's a little smoother) -More maintenance and chase pesky little issues -Jewels or ABMs if I'm feeling frisky.
  6. You legit do detailing AND daycare?? I'm assuming not anywhere close to the same place or times.. I would be mortified that kids would mess the cars up. My own kids aren't even allowed in the shop lmao.
  7. The ABS does not engage in a full panic stop situation. Last winter I was able to lock all 4 wheels if I push the pedal hard enough. The only time I get any ABS activity is when I'm on the brakes as well as turning a corner. (Imagine turning at an intersection with a green light.. Not coming to a stop, but just slowing and turning at the same time) Sometimes in that situation, I do feel the ABS pulsing for maybe a second sometimes (definitely not locking any wheels up so not sure why it would run). Not a consistent thing. The speedometer has always worked. I have checked the main plug and it seems to be clean, pins straight, and engaging fully. The 2 wires to the motor look and feel brand new and the plug is intact and fully engaged.. I'll keep checking things. Might just send the module in to rule it out.
  8. My dad did the re-soldier. He is some sort of certified professional when it comes to soldiering and micro soldering, so he definitely knows what he's doing. The unit that he repaired in my C70 about 7 years ago is still working just fine. I do have an unopened module from the junkyard. I might eventually send that in to Midwest ABS. I just have a hard time spending money on a feature that I don't really like anyways lol. I guess at this point it probably would have been cheaper/easier.
  9. Alright! Looks like the forum has finally been fixed (nobody has been able to post anything for the past week) I got the downpipe and both o2 sensors installed and it sounds better, doesn't rattle, and CEL is gone! Feels faster too actually working correctly. This is nice lol. I rebuilt the oil cooler lines and ATF lines. Yes, I did the oil cooler lines a few years ago, but used screw type clamps and they started leaking. I used oetiker clamps this time and all new seals/o-rings. That should hold up much better. I re-attached the tailgate panels - check that off the list I took the brakes all apart and re-lubed all the moving parts. Also adjusted the e-brake and greased the moving parts. I also fixed IPD's terrible front mounting points for their skid plate. They use rubber expanding plugs that fit the front of the subframe. Those promptly failed and even after replacing the expansion plugs several times, they just weren't holding. I decided to just weld lock-nuts to the subframe. Now the skid-plate is firmly attached and won't fall down anymore. Sorry, I didn't get any pictures of this, but it's pretty straight forward. Lastly, my biggest frustration.. I replaced the ABS motor unit with a known good one. The ABS/TCS lights went away for about 10 miles then came back on (See picture below of me thinking I actually had no lights, they came back on not 5 minutes later *eyeroll* ). I guess I just need to find someone who can actually scan this and see what the issue is. -ABS motor unit replaced with known good part -Module has been resoldiered -Every sensor has been replaced with new I'm honestly ready to just remove the lights from the dash.. The brakes work just fine, TCS is a joke in an AWD car, and I am not a fan of ABS anyways.
  10. I haven't updated this much since I've just been driving and enjoying the car. (this section of road is prettymuch closed to traffic due to a bridge repair but I have to use it to get to my house so it's been nice and abandoned lately ) I've been daily driving it all summer and it has been a champ. Just rolled over 262k miles. The 18" wheels are definitely the best looking size for these cars, but due to some road construction on my daily commute, I am going to throw the 17" comets back on for the rest of the season before winter. I pulled it in the shop to catch up on some pesky little things that have been stacking up. I'll post about them as I go, but here's the list: -Install 3" IPD downpipe to replace the old EST piece. -replace o2 sensors -rebuild oil cooler lines and ATF cooler lines -Swap out complete ABS unit (all sensors good, and computer has been rebuilt/replaces multiple times, but still have ABS/TCS light -Re-lube brake calipers and adjust e-brake -Re-work better mounts for IPD skid-plate. Rubber expansion plugs no longer holding well. -Check over suspension and replace any parts if necessary (I think rear outer toe rods from Yother are wearing out). -Re-attach tailgate interior panels -Right front window motor getting weak -etc? The first thing I am working on is the exhaust. I got this done over the weekend. The new downpipe is evidently an early (possibly the first) IPD 3" downpipe for AWD P80s and was built by CJ Yother. I bought it from "Saffron-R" over on Swedespeed over a year ago because my old one was rattling. I only got the front section, so I used a tapered reducer to adapt it to the 2.5" "rest of the exhaust". I haven't started the car yet but I anticipate a deeper sound and slightly better flow. Should be fun. I will be making an ad for the old EST downpipe soon. And installed on the car. I am still waiting for the new 02 sensors to show up. The front one won't come out of the old downpipe, and the rear sensor at some point got tangled up in the prop shaft and the wires got shredded. I guess that would explain why the CEL wouldn't go away. I've got this nice 90 deg o2 spacer on the new pipe in hopes to avoid the CEL due to lack of cat.
  11. I feel the pain with the headlights though. I own over 10 cars and I can get crystal/projector/custom/etc headlights for almost any of them way cheaper than a set of decent Jewels or ABMs for my X70s.
  12. I did a minimal amount of research (youtube reviews) before purchasing Techmax LEDs from Amazon and I'm happy with them. They are in my 1997 Lexus LS400 in Depo Crystal housings. I don't have a picture readily available, but can get one. The low beams and high beams are separate bulbs and the low beams are adequate once adjusted. The beam seems to maybe not extend quite as far as the originals, but the light is more "pure" i guess you could say, way more bright and clear. But the high beams, holy crap. It's like daytime. (I never get flashed using low beams) I also have cheap generic LED sealed beam conversions in my old Chevy van and while I'm not really satisfied with the lows, the high beams are unreal. I don't know what brand those were. I have also been doing research on what LED brands would work best in my 2003 Lexus LX470 which has projectors for the low beams, and in that application, nobody seems to be happy with any LEDs, and instead recommend HID or Halogen. It seems like a crap shoot. Just order whatever you get from Amazon so you can get a refund if they suck lol.
  13. Might get flamed for this, but I'd be curious about the results of using LED drop in headlights in Jewels and/or ABMs. While I think the tech is still improving, LED headlights have come a long way in the last couple years and I've been running them in a couple non-volvos with excellent results. They also seem to me more "aimable" than HIDs which can blind oncoming traffic. They seem to preform better in non-projector housings, so maybe better in Jewels.. Anyone tried them?
  14. Check that the prop shaft bolts are tight, and snug up the crimp-clamp on the boot. Mine did this last year on the front yoke and the bolts had actually worked themselves a little loose.
  15. This is so cool! Awesome to see the power getting put to use, not just generating dyno numbers!