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tuner4life last won the day on October 18

tuner4life had the most liked content!

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About tuner4life

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  • Birthday 06/06/1989

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  1. This is a great deal for all that is done to it! GLWS! If I didn't have so many projects underway right now I'd be all over this!
  2. The ABS does not engage in a full panic stop situation. Last winter I was able to lock all 4 wheels if I push the pedal hard enough. The only time I get any ABS activity is when I'm on the brakes as well as turning a corner. (Imagine turning at an intersection with a green light.. Not coming to a stop, but just slowing and turning at the same time) Sometimes in that situation, I do feel the ABS pulsing for maybe a second sometimes (definitely not locking any wheels up so not sure why it would run). Not a consistent thing. The speedometer has always worked. I have checked the main plug and it seems to be clean, pins straight, and engaging fully. The 2 wires to the motor look and feel brand new and the plug is intact and fully engaged.. I'll keep checking things. Might just send the module in to rule it out.
  3. My dad did the re-soldier. He is some sort of certified professional when it comes to soldiering and micro soldering, so he definitely knows what he's doing. The unit that he repaired in my C70 about 7 years ago is still working just fine. I do have an unopened module from the junkyard. I might eventually send that in to Midwest ABS. I just have a hard time spending money on a feature that I don't really like anyways lol. I guess at this point it probably would have been cheaper/easier.
  4. Alright! Looks like the forum has finally been fixed (nobody has been able to post anything for the past week) I got the downpipe and both o2 sensors installed and it sounds better, doesn't rattle, and CEL is gone! Feels faster too actually working correctly. This is nice lol. I rebuilt the oil cooler lines and ATF lines. Yes, I did the oil cooler lines a few years ago, but used screw type clamps and they started leaking. I used oetiker clamps this time and all new seals/o-rings. That should hold up much better. I re-attached the tailgate panels - check that off the list I took the brakes all apart and re-lubed all the moving parts. Also adjusted the e-brake and greased the moving parts. I also fixed IPD's terrible front mounting points for their skid plate. They use rubber expanding plugs that fit the front of the subframe. Those promptly failed and even after replacing the expansion plugs several times, they just weren't holding. I decided to just weld lock-nuts to the subframe. Now the skid-plate is firmly attached and won't fall down anymore. Sorry, I didn't get any pictures of this, but it's pretty straight forward. Lastly, my biggest frustration.. I replaced the ABS motor unit with a known good one. The ABS/TCS lights went away for about 10 miles then came back on (See picture below of me thinking I actually had no lights, they came back on not 5 minutes later *eyeroll* ). I guess I just need to find someone who can actually scan this and see what the issue is. -ABS motor unit replaced with known good part -Module has been resoldiered -Every sensor has been replaced with new I'm honestly ready to just remove the lights from the dash.. The brakes work just fine, TCS is a joke in an AWD car, and I am not a fan of ABS anyways.
  5. Yes, the early hoses do tend to leak, but the issues can be remedied yourself for pretty cheap. For the low cost of fixing this yourself, I can't justify the cost of going to the newer oil pan and having the stupid plastic filter. I just got done rebuilding a set of hoses the other day.. Ironically it's the same set that Gdog mentioned in the earlier link. I had previously used screw type hose clamps and that is evidently a no-no.. The oetiker type clamps hold tighter and are "constant tension" clamps which won't lose clamping force over time like the screw clamps did and eventually started leaking again. -You can cut the crimps off and re-use the hard lines. -Oil cooler hoses are 1/2" and ATF hoses are 3/8" I think (Don't quote me on this). Make sure to get oil cooler/Trans cooler hoses rated for oil. (heater hose won't cut it) -Use oetiker clamps in place of the crimps (2x per connection, see below picture) -Then buy new o-rings/seals for the ends of the lines -Reinstall and send it for another many years. I don't remember what the costs ended up being, but I am probably less than $60 into this project including having to buy the crimp tool for the clamps. -Also, a nice little hack for actually replacing the lines is to undo the 2 bolts holding the engine mount by the crank pulley to the engine, jack the engine up and reinstall the upper bolt only so that the engine is now mounted a couple inches higher. That gives better access to where the lines attach to the oil thermostat. -When re-installing the lines to the thermostat, lube up the o-rings and be sure to fully seat the lines into the thermostat before installing the retainer plate. If you try to draw the lines tight with the retainer, you will just bend it and they won't seal. -Replace that PITA rectangle gasket between the oil thermostat and the oil pan while you are there if it's leaking. I always use some "high tack" sealant to help hold that seal in place when re-installing. It's a pain, but this is the best/easiest opportunity you will have to replace it. Hope this helps!
  6. I haven't updated this much since I've just been driving and enjoying the car. (this section of road is prettymuch closed to traffic due to a bridge repair but I have to use it to get to my house so it's been nice and abandoned lately ) I've been daily driving it all summer and it has been a champ. Just rolled over 262k miles. The 18" wheels are definitely the best looking size for these cars, but due to some road construction on my daily commute, I am going to throw the 17" comets back on for the rest of the season before winter. I pulled it in the shop to catch up on some pesky little things that have been stacking up. I'll post about them as I go, but here's the list: -Install 3" IPD downpipe to replace the old EST piece. -replace o2 sensors -rebuild oil cooler lines and ATF cooler lines -Swap out complete ABS unit (all sensors good, and computer has been rebuilt/replaces multiple times, but still have ABS/TCS light -Re-lube brake calipers and adjust e-brake -Re-work better mounts for IPD skid-plate. Rubber expansion plugs no longer holding well. -Check over suspension and replace any parts if necessary (I think rear outer toe rods from Yother are wearing out). -Re-attach tailgate interior panels -Right front window motor getting weak -etc? The first thing I am working on is the exhaust. I got this done over the weekend. The new downpipe is evidently an early (possibly the first) IPD 3" downpipe for AWD P80s and was built by CJ Yother. I bought it from "Saffron-R" over on Swedespeed over a year ago because my old one was rattling. I only got the front section, so I used a tapered reducer to adapt it to the 2.5" "rest of the exhaust". I haven't started the car yet but I anticipate a deeper sound and slightly better flow. Should be fun. I will be making an ad for the old EST downpipe soon. And installed on the car. I am still waiting for the new 02 sensors to show up. The front one won't come out of the old downpipe, and the rear sensor at some point got tangled up in the prop shaft and the wires got shredded. I guess that would explain why the CEL wouldn't go away. I've got this nice 90 deg o2 spacer on the new pipe in hopes to avoid the CEL due to lack of cat.
  7. I feel the pain with the headlights though. I own over 10 cars and I can get crystal/projector/custom/etc headlights for almost any of them way cheaper than a set of decent Jewels or ABMs for my X70s.
  8. I did a minimal amount of research (youtube reviews) before purchasing Techmax LEDs from Amazon and I'm happy with them. They are in my 1997 Lexus LS400 in Depo Crystal housings. I don't have a picture readily available, but can get one. The low beams and high beams are separate bulbs and the low beams are adequate once adjusted. The beam seems to maybe not extend quite as far as the originals, but the light is more "pure" i guess you could say, way more bright and clear. But the high beams, holy crap. It's like daytime. (I never get flashed using low beams) I also have cheap generic LED sealed beam conversions in my old Chevy van and while I'm not really satisfied with the lows, the high beams are unreal. I don't know what brand those were. I have also been doing research on what LED brands would work best in my 2003 Lexus LX470 which has projectors for the low beams, and in that application, nobody seems to be happy with any LEDs, and instead recommend HID or Halogen. It seems like a crap shoot. Just order whatever you get from Amazon so you can get a refund if they suck lol.
  9. Might get flamed for this, but I'd be curious about the results of using LED drop in headlights in Jewels and/or ABMs. While I think the tech is still improving, LED headlights have come a long way in the last couple years and I've been running them in a couple non-volvos with excellent results. They also seem to me more "aimable" than HIDs which can blind oncoming traffic. They seem to preform better in non-projector housings, so maybe better in Jewels.. Anyone tried them?
  10. The valve seals are tiny and weigh less than a pound all together.. Seems ridiculous. FCP is the way to go!
  11. I've used Tasca a couple times, but nothing spectacular about them. their site kind of sucks if you don't have a part number. I try to stick with FCP and the prices are pretty close once you get to the free-shipping minimum order. Plus the lifetime warranty from FCP is outstanding!
  12. Check that the prop shaft bolts are tight, and snug up the crimp-clamp on the boot. Mine did this last year on the front yoke and the bolts had actually worked themselves a little loose.
  13. This is so cool! Awesome to see the power getting put to use, not just generating dyno numbers!
  14. Nice job man!!! That thing's a ripper now!