volvoguy23

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Everything posted by volvoguy23

  1. You do know about the m44 wiki page right? It has everything you need including all the files and how to do everything, here's a link to all the files http://m44.wikia.com/wiki/Factory_Binaries
  2. Probably something like This turbo right here... I would open up a separate thread btw so that no one complains...
  3. Honestly, I know it's tempting and they look good but I would NOT waste your time or money on any no-name eBay turbo. Your link wouldn't load for some reason but I'm very familiar with all the eBay turbos. The best thing you can do is save up $800-1200 for a genuine Garrett or even score a used one for cheaper. You want it to be a reliable 400hp that doesn't require taking the turbo off all the time and messing with all that crap. Not saying some of the expensive eBay turbos aren't good, I just personally wouldn't risk it.
  4. Hi there! For 400hp this is what I recommend, forged rods ($300) eBay < highly recommend these upgraded intercooler 3" dp and 2.5" exhaust would be fine but I would try and run 3" all the way if only using pump gas (91-93oct) get some 630cc five-0 gt500 injectors Forget the Walbro, instead get a dw200 or dw300 you do not need forged pistons, I repeat, you do not. I promise. a GOOD, 50trim t04e turbo or even a 20g would work very well for your goal. Stay away from the 19/20t turbo's. Trust me. oil catch can, modify your PVC box. As with the tune, when the time comes you'll get plenty of help on here. All you do really is start with a stock t5 tune, get your injectors calibrated and then you simply start doing things like reducing your ignition timing and adjusting your fuel map(data logging)...it's really pretty easy. Plenty of people on here will offer you advice.
  5. Considering your running iirc stock cams/valves and head you would probably have to push close to 60lbs/min to get up to the 480whp goal without cams and head work but I'm no expert. I think thats very impressive considering it's awd at higher elevation and at only 24psi with that turbo. Also the e85 helps greatly. Great work!
  6. Love it! Very impressive, the power is so linear it just pulls and pulls. Are the valve seats ok? Is that turbo efficient past 25psi? I think we should make a threa for videos like these, I would love to post videos of pulls and such.
  7. Don't know if it's possible or not but perhaps maybe a keeper stuck to the top of the cam cover when you took it off? You look at that? Really strange...
  8. Valve seals on my wagon, with the head still on. Lost one keeper and couldn't find it, so had to tear apart my junk motor. FML. 10 more to go. Oh and FML haha.
  9. Soooo... I remember there being talk about anti-lag when shifting or no lift shift. Has anyone had success with this yet? I remember there being a few pages on it but does it actually work? Or did this never happen? I would LOVE to be able keep this holset rollin when I shift.
  10. Yeah to be on the safe side using 91 pump gas I figured 11.5 would be a decent safe number to start with. I'm wanting to shoot for low 12's. 15psi for the holset is barely reaching the sweet spot from what I've been reading.. Around 15-20 they really start breathing. I'm shooting for 30psi with e85. I'm just waiting on injectors now and of course another laptop. The Hotside is the stock 12cm twin scroll/internal wg with the divider knife edge to a almost a fine point, wastegate hole ported to death and using a stock 740 turbo wastegate(Garrett) doesn't boost creep but maybe 1-2 psi at low levels, anything above 10 doesn't creep. Builds 5psi at 2600 in higher gears. This turbo is great, in 1st gear it doesn't build boost as easily so the car hooks really well. Can't wait to get injectors and computer!
  11. hahahahaaa That was so much fun. OK guys to sum it all up, i got it figured out! With no fuel trims the car now idles at 14.7 and cruising 14.7!!!! i just went for a 30 minute drive to be sure.. there's of course slight variance here and there but its pretty much spot on. as you can see I adjusted the VE map quite a bit and finally got the 11.5 AFR's I was looking for at WOT. I'm running 15psi and am getting 11.5's!!!! Car pulls so well...feels like a new car now...before it was so rich and lazy now it runs very well. The VE map will definitely need some tweaking but It's really close all round... I only adjusted the high load areas and ignition timing. Doesn't feel like there's any timing pull and No flashing cel. I'm going to have to get a new laptop and Larger injectors before trying to push it any harder. My laptop is just plain screwed. Thanks for the guidance guys! Maybe ill try to get a video but ill need a passenger. I'm just surprised the blues are not completely tapped out at 15psi.. I'm Happy. Here are the value's I ended up with
  12. Ok thanks guy, having a few opinions is nice. I'm going to make some more changes and do what midnight caller suggested with my main drivers and go from there. I will report back after I make some more changes and what not, thanks again.
  13. I understand the injector calibration parameters are not for WOT tuning I just figured it would hit higher afr's using the stock VE map with correct calibration...but I'm learning otherwise. Using the stock 607 injector parameters the engine would idle and cruise at 9.9 to 10.1!!!!! I've always had problems with these injectors running rich at wot even with a 15g I'm going to have to pull a lot more fuel from the VE map I suppose. I've hit 15psi with this turbo a few times to see if it would lean out and sure enough it's still pig rich stuck around 10.5 to 10.9 Would it really lean out if the injectors were maxed out or would they stay completely open? How could 15psi on a turbo this size not max out these blues?this may be far fetched but Is there any way my VVT exhaust cam is set wrong causing a lot of air/fuel pass thru? There are no leaks that I can find and car builds boost very fast. Idles at -20vac and pulls -24vac off throttle downhill. Like I mentioned earlier I believe my constant is pretty close since cruising around it looks decent (14.0-14.3) however idle when completely warm after a couple of pulls is 13.5ish so I need to lower dead times and then lower VE quite a bit and definitely try to get this damn laptop working.
  14. Well I have it disconnected to get the injector values correct, I just haven't plugged it in yet. The cel isn't flashing so I suppose if it is pulling timing it must not be much, it doesn't feel like it anyway. I know I really do need to log and see exactly what's going on... My laptop is giving me the "blue screen of death" everytime I plug a USB device in, so I've been flashing with my desktop and making changes based on afr's and how it feels. I'll just have to get a new laptop And go from there. It pulls good just feels sluggish because of how rich it is, just wanted to try and get it running good with what I have but obviously is tough without seeing what's going on.
  15. Hey guys having an issue with tuning. I can't get the afr at wot to lean out. I'm only running 6-7psi on my hx35, 3.5"maf, blue injectors(for another 2 weeks) ignition timing about 3 degrees lowered from stock 607 map. Car pulls OK.... Has never pulled timing, But dumping fuel at wot, getting 10.5-11 constant is 0.8751 and dead times at 13.5v are around .65 ive been lowering both and dead times and constant and still can't get it to lean out. Also pulled fuel from the VE map, just a little with no success. Can't get my laptop to connect to car when running because my laptop is a POS but do you think only 6psi with hx35 would really max blues out at wot? Cruising around with NO fuel trims is around 14.3-14.0, idle is around 13.3-13.5 I'm sure plugging in my o2 sensor would stoich everything out but I'm more focused on WOT. Should I keep lowering my values? I have no vacuum or boost leaks. Will be getting large injectors and new laptop in a month or so but would like to try and lean this thing out a bit. Any advice or help would be very appreciated. Thanks!
  16. Ahhh I see thanks for the explanation, I'm trying to catch up on everything since I can actually start tuning now.
  17. Sorry to butt in here but are you guys basically replacing the stock front o2 sensor with a Wideband o2, grounding it to the ecu instead and then using a conversion formula to use it in all the fueling maps, part load, wot etc.??
  18. Finally was able to flash the ecu after messing with the vag-com cable drivers for 2 hours!!! car idles and rev's perfectly with the 3.5'' Maf and blue injectors!!!
  19. OK that's what I will do then, I'm going to talk to Piet and see what he can do for me, thanks for the input guy's....I'm always impressed when I read this thread Can't believe how far this has gone.
  20. Ok I thought about that but wasn't sure. Makes complete sense though. Thanks! Oh and pm sent.
  21. Hey guys I've been following this thread for a long time and have flashed and made plenty of changes on my Ecu but I haven't kept up on absolutely everything, Since my car is very close to being done (First start will be tonight with new setup) I have a few questions in regards to the Rpm and Load scaling and also the Maf Linearisations. Here is a screen shot of what I've done with rpm, Load, and maf tables, Is it ok to just simply divide the max load and rpm by 16 and fill each row with equal increments like I've done in my screen shot? I believe i got the maf tables right based on the M4.4wiki and table generator. I understand I will have to rescale all the Values in the Ignition map and VE maps etc. Just didn't know if it was really this easy or ideal to do it the way i did, TIA!
  22. Yea me too, I'm worried more about the stock brakes and transmission. Andy would you recommend using a tow dolly on a stock fwd turbo wagon to tow other fwd Volvo's?