tighe

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tighe last won the day on November 6 2019

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About tighe

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    Addicted to R
  • Birthday 03/06/1983

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    Male

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    Los Angeles

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  1. Awesome, thanks for the great explanation! Makes a lot of sense. I’ll get to replacing the positive...I’ll make it a priority now. Really appreciate the explanation.
  2. Small update. Yesterday I installed the negative cable from FCP, cleaned the terminal posts, and It started no problem. but, it had been starting no problem for the past week or so, so nothing conclusive there. The non starting an intermittent thing, so it’s been difficult to pin down. It’s can always be corrected by loosening the cable clamps and moving them around on the posts a bit. Today I went to fire it up and no start. Ugh. Moved the positive clamp around and it started. When I get a little more time I’ll be replacing that one as well. it’s worth noting that even when the car doesn’t start, there is still power- the lights and radio etc all work, but nothing other than a single click when I turn the key further. Will report back once the positive cable is installed.
  3. As the title states, looking to remove my lowering springs and replace with stock springs. I threw mine out years ago, and with two kids under two, I ain't prowling junkyards looking for them. So I gotta shell out. I'm hoping someone's got some from a part out, or some other situation. I am not looking to trade. My V70 is for the next few months my daily, while I look for another car. During that time I really need a more comfortable ride. After which time I may well slap the lowering springs back on. Non-nivomats. Car is a 1998 V70 T5. I did post on FB a few weeks ago but nothing yet. Thanks!
  4. Nice, but I prefer to pay through the nose for OEM yet potentially sub par replacement parts. At least the shipping was free! (it still hasn't arrived yet...)
  5. I was looking through some of my notes today and sure enough, when describing this issue to a mechanic friend of mine I described how the positive battery terminal got very hot after driving. Guess I forgot about that... Not sure what to conclude from this, but figured I'd get it written down here for posterity.
  6. Totally. If jy runs were in my realm of possibility I'd be there too. Two kids under two years old though...so spare time is a thing of the past.
  7. Pft, FCP must have sent it by horse. Still hasn’t arrived. Will update once I get it installed. of course the car has been starting totally fine for the last week...🙄
  8. Thanks for all the info! I’ll check whether they’re heating up, appreciate the tip. Can’t say I’ve noticed that at all but certainly a good suggestion. I’ll keep the old one and will inspect for corrosion at the cable/lug connection, if clean will try doubling them up. Thanks for all that!
  9. Yeah I feel that. I sold my other car recently, so the V70 is temporarily my daily driver. As a result I coughed up the $200 FCP wants for new positive and negative cables, as it's not a good look to be fiddling under the hood at my office parking lot... Hopefully this solves it!
  10. Yup, I’ve definitely had the same thing happen. Loose clamps, everything flickers, car dies. But what I’m dealing with now is different- there is a disruption in the contact between terminal and clamp despite the clamps being fully tightened. As though there is corrosion/oxidation occurring that causes a buildup of insulation, which gets removed when I scratch the area...
  11. Figured I’d toss this question out, as I’ve been trying to get to the bottom of it myself without much success. I’ve been having a no start condition in my 98 V70 recently, which I had initially attributed to a bad battery. Replaced the battery. Battery is confirmed good using a battery trickle charger w/readout. Sometimes the car will just randomly not start, but I can get it to start by taking the battery cables off, sanding/scratching up the insides of the battery cable clamps, then putting them back on the battery terminals. Clamps appear to be clean and in normal working condition- no obvious corrosion/rust/issues. When it doesn’t start, there is still power- lights, radio, etc all work fine...but when I turn the key it just clicks once, and then nothing. I’m on the fence about buying new battery cables...mostly because they’re nearly $200 from FCP. But I don’t want to have to keep popping the hood and scratching the clamps to start my car. What is happening here? Clamps are tight on the terminals. Battery is brand new. Sometimes power but no start, sometimes starts totally fine. Alternator charges the battery fine. Any ideas? ❤️
  12. Wow, this sure beats laying under a car that's up on ramps on a sloped driveway in the dark! 🙂
  13. @lookforjoe It’s so nice to see you back in the machine shop making and modifying stuff. The photos of your fabrication skills now account for about 2/3 of my enjoyment of this site...
  14. Took her surfing in Malibu. Canyon roads are so nice with no traffic...
  15. tighe

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    When I was first learning to drive my grandpa took me out in his 71 mustang, in which I had a similar oh shit moment. Lost all braking power while at speed. He talked me through quickly downshifting, and while it wasn't a close call it certainly could have been if our luck was worse! Not trying to repeat that! I just ordered braided lines for my V70 from FCP as a result of this post. Thanks for the reminder!