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Everything posted by S70-R

  1. Are you sure you don't have any freezing when you run it in playback mode? On my previous laptop I had that exact issue. I had freezes when recording and the recorded time had a lot of 2/3/4 seconds gaps. And when I was running it in playblack I also got freezes. What seems weird is you not having freezes when playblack.
  2. Are you talking about changing the baud rate on the device manager configuration? I believe you won't have to change it. Leave it at 9600 and it should work ok. Regarding the 2/3 secs gaps/freezing, do you recall when I firstly reported this issue? I had 3/4 seconds freezing in all my logs. It was working ok for a moments then it freezes a few seconds then it works a few seconds then it freezes and over and over again. This freezing did not affect the recording. The data was all recorded but the logged time was not recorded ok so I couldn't playback it on tunerpro because it wouldn't do very good. I always analyzed the logs with excel. However, I changed my laptop 2 months ago and the freezing went away. As I suspected before, the problem was the laptop itself and nothing more. Plain and simple. Did you change the laptop?
  3. I did 170mph on a good 1.5mile straight line. Of course did it by night with little traffic.
  4. Yes, I don't have. To disable the limiter you just set it to the max value.
  5. Really? Too much traffic there? I've taken mine to almost 170mph (speedo)...
  6. I still think your knock issue may be related to the knock sensors / wires. You said that adding fuel and reducing ignition didn't help too much to reduce light load knock. It seems phantom knock. Actually it really is abnormal an engine to knock at light load. That would be normal with a vacuum leak. You can confirm you're not burning oil right? Burning oil in the combustion chamber would cause uncontrolled knock too.
  7. Little videos of some pulls of my S70R @ 18/19psi (still need to change forge cbv spring to the yellow one because is leaking from 19psi).
  8. Where are exactly the ECU grounds? I quickly looked for it but didn't find. I assumed that as right headlamp you mean the right one when you are inside the car, thus closer to the ECU. Is it necessary to pull out the right headlight?
  9. boxpin, I'm glad you found the problem and the engine is OK. We hope to see the car running strong again!
  10. lookforjoe, regarding voltage again, I tested the battery with the car ON and OFF. The car was off for 2 days and with the car still off (30ºC ambient temp) the multimeter read 12.22v which shows a good battery. Then I turned on the car and the multimeter read arround 13.94v even though the tunerpro was showing only 13.4/13.5v. I let the idle settle and the reading was the same. 13.94v on multimeter and 13.4/13.5 on tunerpro. So multimeter reads a higher and healthy voltage. Alternator seems to be good too yet... Considering a 0.4/0.5v difference between tunerpro and multimeter the high 12'sV I have sometimes during WOT pulls should really be arround 13.4v. Not that bad indeed, Tunerpro conversion equation is X*0,0704. I think I found it somewhere in the thread. Can you/someone else confirm you are using the same?
  11. Yes, TME catback with stock DP. I adjusted cams to E+2 / I-2. I know it is extremely restrictive and actually I think the WOT knock I have sometimes (more frequent in higher ambient temperatures and higher gears) is due to exhaust restrictions. And for that reason in the next months I'll be upgrading it with a S60R manifold, custom 3" DP and N/A cams if I can find some (I'll be also putting an EGT sensor and pre-post intercooler IAT sensors). I'm just trying to conclude on what turbo I want to go to start clicking on the buying button -> it will be probably a 20T (7cm angled housing) or a 20G. I know their potential are significantly different but as I don't want to build the block now (specially rods) I'm considering the 20T (and because it is plug and play too)
  12. I already have a brand new set of volvo plugs to fit. Just need to get a brand new bosch coil.
  13. Ah now I see. Cutting that will allow water and other debris to pass through it will not? Yeah I know voltage should be a little higher. I don't know how many miles the alternator may have (as well as battery) because I'm not the first owner of the car but probably it has a lot. The car has now almost 330.000km (206k miles) and I bought it with 296.000km (186k miles). It's something I'll address. However I think the voltage being a little low is not the source of the shift knock neither the heat on the engine bay (what would count for knock would be cylinder heat and pressure).
  14. Cutting the center of what exactly? I didn't understand sorry. Our cars are LHD and not RHD. They have the air duct and also the vent out the back of the box into the passanger compartment. PS: I've also noticed the voltage is a bit low. Idling and cruising voltage is a bit higher but not that much (low 13's).
  15. No I didn't mess with dwell times. The problem doesn't seem to be dwell times but slow timing adjustments made by the ECU.
  16. My coolant temps are within spec too but engine bay and ECU runs really hot.
  17. I'm using stock flywheel and stock S70R clutch. At least I've never changed it and I believe the previous owner didn't too. This log shows a not very quick shift from 2nd to 3rd but it shows exactly what seems to be causing the shifting knock. You can see the load goes from 0 to 8.3ms very quickly and the timing is not adjusted so quickly. When I let off the throttle the timing goes up to near idle timing (37-39deg) and then when I hit the gas again and even though the load is 8ms the timing is still 27deg which is not what is foreseen in my timing map (actually for that rpm and load the timing should be arround 15deg. As you can see this situation caused huge KR with 2 sequencial knock events (bits 131 and 163). To solve this I started to reduce medium/high rpm low/medium load timing. It helped a bit but the issue continued so I then changed the idle timing and the problem went away apparently.
  18. What I did was to significantly reduce timing (1) in and above 4200rpm in low/medium load areas (i.e. in shifting transition area) (2) and to reduce idle timing above 3600rpm to 31.5 deg. Yes I have the ECU cooling duct. All the engine bay gets really hot even in normal driving (i.e. even without any pulls). It seems engine area doesn't get many air from the outside when driving. When I drive for a while the ECU gets so hot that I can't hold my hand on the ECU. I just can grab it for a second or 2. I think this is not that normal. A friend of mine also has a S70R and his car never gets as hot as mine and he doesn't have air guide too (and the ECU doesn't get hot too). I don't have my air guide because when I bought the car the air guide simply was not there.
  19. It isn't knock sensors either. It is something much more subtile and stupid indeed which I actually should have addressed/tried it before. Actually I've tried it before but not at this extend. I'm affraid to say that during WOT quick shifts the ECU is not quick enough to adjust the timing between it. The problem is that as soon as you hit the clutch the ECU goes to the idle timing map which is 39.75deg above 3600rpm if I recall correctly (and low load / high rpm the timing is also very high). So when you hit the gas again after the shift, in a split of a second the load jumps > 8ms but the ECU still puts a high amount of timing advance causing knock. The ECU does not put the timing foreseen for that high load because it is an extremelly quick situation. What I've done was to reduce both low/medium load high rpm timing and also to reduce >3600rpm idle timing map. Apparently this solved my issue. When I get back the ostrich I'll see if I really need to play with the low load high rpm timing or only with the idle map. I wonder why nobody else faced this issue once it is due to the ECU being slow (this issue happened with 4 different ECU's) compared to the shifting velocity. My engine bay is running under high temperatures (I still need to find out why - I don't have the air guide installed - that may explain it but I'm not sure if that's all) and my ECU gets really hot even inside the ECU box. Once nobody else reported this issue so far, can be the heat a cause for a slower ECU?
  20. I replaced my transmission mount and right engine mount but my shifting knock issue remained. I was suspecting on these to be the cause but even though they were not in good shape they were not the cause. I tried other approach and preliminary tests show that I found the source of my shift knock issue (at least 99% sure). Anyone wants to guess what it is?
  21. It all seems ok but I don't see the "too much timing advance at the mid-load, mid-rpm section". Can you please clarify or give an example?
  22. I think this theory may also explain why these engines don't like too much torque at low rpm. As the engine spins slowly at low rpms, the stress of each compression stroke on the rods is higher than when rpm is high because at low rpm the bottom end presents much more resistance to spin. By other words when torque is too much at low rpm there's a huge difference between chamber power (punching the pistons/rods down) and the ability to spin the crankshaft and all the transmission. Imagine that you are starting to spin a huge and heavy wheel by hand. You'll have to have a lot of torque to spin the wheel firstly and probably if you try to increase your force/torque so much at low rpm, your hand will break (the rod in this case). However, if you slowly start spinning the wheel with proper torque, when you reach medium/high rpm you will be able to punch much more torque on the wheel than before without damaging your hand (rods in this case) because the engine speeds actually helps spinning it (at medium/high rpm the wheel becomes "lighter" so easier to spin it). So what do you think was the cause in this case? Torque converter may not save the bottom end from the huge stress and probably less if it's not in good shape.
  23. Between auto shifts that high pressure on the piston may occure (I think) as there's no power cut, and when gear is engaged the free spinning engine at high pressure suddenly gets loads of resistance on bottom end and rods being the weak point and one of the main hardware in terms of combustion chamber power transmission, they simply don't handle it.