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mattsk8 last won the day on December 10 2016

mattsk8 had the most liked content!

About mattsk8

  • Birthday 07/15/1975

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    Religion, politics, my wife, my kids, cars, skateboarding, woodworking, water sports, traveling, great stereos...

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    Grand Rapids, MI

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  1. I did some more research. First, it was brought up that potentially this was because the clutch disc was in backward, you can't put the clutch disc in backward, if you do the "pressure plate" side of the disc hits the flywheel bolts, it would make a terrible racket if you drove it like that. So that definitely isn't the issue. Best I can come up with is that because the friction portion of the SD698 clutch disc is 6 1/4" ID, and the original 850 clutch disc's friction portion is 6 5/8" ID, there is about 3/16" MORE of the new clutch disc than there is of mating surface on the 850 pressure plate. To try to make this make more sense... the 850 pressure plate I used has a mating surface that is exactly the same OD as the SD698 disc, but the ID of the mating surface of the SD698 is 6 1/4", and the ID of the pressure plate mating surface is 6 5/8". So this MIGHT be why the friction part of the clutch disc basically peeled off the disc. So... I don't want to go through this again (sick of pulling the transmission out of this car), so I'm going to order a dual mass flywheel for a 2004 S60R, then get a clutch kit for a 2004 S60R. This should solve my problem... right??
  2. I have not seen that, after reading it I need to see exactly what he means when he says, "The SMF listed above will have to be machined for the friction disc and flywheel to work properly". I didn't do anything to my flywheel prior to installing the same setup he's using, my flywheel looked new back when I installed it (still does actually), but I didn't do anything to it before using it. It worked great for 20k miles then the friction side of the clutch disc all came off on the flywheel side. I'm going to order the same setup I had, research what he meant about machining my flywheel for the different friction disc... then put it back together. Thanks for the input!!!
  3. Pulled the transmission out. My son was driving it and the clutch pedal went to the floor and didn't come back up. Towed it home and pushed it in the garage and saw brake fluid leaking out of the trans... so I pulled the transmission. Turns out... the clutch disc basically came apart, all the linings on the flywheel side came off (guessing this is what smoked the throwout bearing). Thankfully it didn't scorch my flywheel, that's still smooth. My son admitted he was doing some "spirited" driving when it happened, but nothing insane. And there's no way he was beating the car worse than I did when I took it to the dragstrip last spring. So now I'm curious why this happened. Granted, I'm not always nice to the car, but I've never seen a clutch disc do this before. I run a 97 850 SM Flywheel and pressure plate, and I used a Sachs SD693 clutch disc. Curious if I should just use that same setup again and chalk it up to a faulty clutch disc or an anomaly, or if I should spend the money on a S60R clutch setup. FWIW, the old setup lasted about 20k miles before this happened.
  4. Went straight to war with my 99 V70r over the past week ish. I replaced my front struts (Koni yellows), springs (Eibach), strut bearings and mounts, tie rods, control arm, wheel bearing... no problems. Started the rear suspension (new springs and nivos)... driver side came apart, no problem. Got the driver's side springs and nivos in, and went to take the passenger side apart and the bolt that mounts the rear control arm was froze in the sleeve that mounts in the control arm (bolts the rear control arm to the bearing housing via a rubber bushing). I figured not a big deal, I'll take the die grinder, cut the original bolt out, then get a new bushing from Volvo. Well... that bushing is NLA from Volvo. I then figured out that NO ONE makes aftermarket suspension bushings for a 99 V70 AWD. So I called Energy Suspension with my dimensions, and figured out that a polyurethane Jeep Wrangler spring shackle bushing is the same diameter, just a little too long. The bushing was $13, so I took a chance and ordered it. Once I cut it down, it fit together nicely, actually pressed in perfectly, like a urethane bushing should. The original bolt was a 12 mm, but the new shackle bushing sleeve was for a 1/2" bolt, so I had to drill the entry and exit holes in my bearing housing for the 1/2" bolt. Everything pressed together perfectly and the car is back on the road. Drives amazing, the suspension is so much more predictable and stable. The car doesn't "plow" dips like it used to, no more crunching when I'm full clock while steering... really glad I did it. And my old suspension didn't really feel worn out, I replaced it because it was a tad lop-sided and I wanted to drop the front a little. Very happy with the end result. I'm thinking I might try to replace all the bushings in the rear suspension the same way... I have a spare lower control arm so I can measure everything and call Energy Suspension again to see what might work. Next I think I'll remove my cat, getting it ready for a catless Hilton tune hopefully in October. I really want to get into 13 sec 1/4 with it. I'm not saying that simply removing my cat will do this, but I think the combination of what I've done, plus removing the cat, and a Hilton tune should get me there (hopefully, I might still need to go with a FMIC). I'll try to post suspension pics with my phone... Well, tried and still can't upload pics on this forum. So... Edit: I also finally centered my shifter. When I did my swap, I used the factory shift linkage mounting holes. This places the shifter a tad too far forward (bump the hazard switch sometimes when hard shifting 3rd with my knuckle), and a tad to the right. I moved it back about 9/16", and about 3/16" over to the left and the shift linkage is perfectly centered in the hole in the console now. I used a thread setter to install new threads to mount it, worked perfectly.
  5. Replaced the motor mount under the crank pulley and the one right by the cooling fan, both were broke. Also replaced the negative battery cable. Next up is... passenger control arm, passenger wheel bearing, and all my suspension.
  6. Took my 99 R to the dragstrip yesterday... monumental disappointment. Pulls like a freight train thru 1st and 2nd, but in 3rd gear the car seems to be chugging slightly under WOT, and when I hit 4th the car just shuts down like someone shut the key off (I've had issues with WOT in 4th gear from the get go ever since I did the manual swap). I did notice that as the evening progressed and it cooled down 8 degrees the 4th gear issue seemed to get better, but never went away. Was about 82 degrees when I started, cooled down to about 74 toward the end of the night. Hilton is supposed to be coming to MI for a group dyno tune session end of this summer, early fall... I've heard great things about them. So... plans for the 99 VR before then are... Get my AWD back in so I don't get such pathetic 60 ft times (consistently 2.5 sec, zero traction with my street tires and my car being FWD)... possibly a bigger intercooler or a maybe a FMIC... catless... then Hilton tune. I couldn't get out of the 15s with my car . Hoping for low 14s... maybe high 13s after all that is done. Actually, as I was typing this it occurred to me that maybe my stock intercooler is slightly plugged. My old engine was using a lot of oil... so maybe a new intercooler or even try to wash out the old will fix a lot of this??
  7. Taska finally shipped my rear springs today after over a week ago that I ordered them. The last piece that I'm waiting on.
  8. I figured, kinda why I asked. Would suck to ruin ~$600 shocks over not replacing the springs too so I went ahead and ordered them. So in response to this thread... spent about half of what the turd is worth on suspension.
  9. Springs showed up yesterday... struts, Nivos, strut bearings and mounting plates are on their way. Anything else I should order for the struts? Bump stops? What else can wear out on them?? Also, does anyone replace the rear springs when they replace the Nivos, or just replace the Nivos? Just want to (try to) have everything I need when I go to change the suspension. Once I get the suspension done I'm going to try a "road force balance" for the first time, the place doing the alignment has a road force balancer. It's expensive, like $75, but ever since I got these new wheels the car has a mild shimmy at about 70+ MPH that it didn't have before the new wheels. And I've had the place I bought the wheels from balance them 4 times now.
  10. I ended up having to go with the Eibach springs instead of the H&R because the H&Rs are back ordered with no release date in site. I guess they're nearly identical, but the Eibachs were like $60 more money. I decided to wait on the Nivos until I see how it sits with the new front suspension... then I'll make a decision on the rears. I haven't heard of the Vette suspension mod, but I do know about the foolers for the Nivo drops. Either way, I'm not going to track it, just looking for a "less lopsided" look . Aaaand maybe eliminate the crunching noise it makes when I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (I ordered new strut bearings and spring mounts too).
  11. Week or so ago... replaced my tailgate because my old one was getting rusty under the bottom of the glass. Also replaced the lift shocks, and put a spoiler on it. Tried my hand at window tint... it actually turned out pretty well but in the future I'll leave that to the experts (too much work). (Before tint) Today I think I'm ordering new Nivomats for the back, and Koni yellows with H&R springs for the front... sick of the "gasser" looking stagger it has. I tried posting more pics but I give up, I can't figure out what kind of BS hoops I need to jump through on this website to make that happen.
  12. For whatever reason, I was able to upload that photo, but it won't let me upload anymore. I'll try this...
  13. Yes, I've had the subs in for about a month and it hasn't changed much... if anything it seems like the driver's side is getting (mildly) worse, but that might just be in my head. The weird thing is, about a week ago I had my kids in the back of the car, and the car did level up with them in it (3 kids in the back seat, probably 300 lbs). I'm not sure how it looked with them in the car (before they got out), because I didn't see it, but I noticed after they got out that the car was sitting like it should be sitting, as opposed to how it usually sits now (too low in the back). But once I drove it again after they got out, the car settled back to too low again. So the Nivos are kind of working, they're just not raising the car high enough. I'm not opposed to Nivos again, but $600 every 4 years is pretty retarded IMO. Anyone else have this issue?? Here's a pic...
  14. So I put the (2) 12" subs in my car, now my ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD is low and the driver side rear is about an inch (ish) lower than passenger. The Nivomats were replaced (roughly) 4 years ago. Shouldn't these adjust for the weight of my subs, which is around 100 lbs? Am I looking at replacing these again already? If so, given the price of the things... wouldn't coilovers make more sense back there?? Looking for suggestions.
  15. If you pull the rear (or the front) speakers out and use a small flat head screwdriver to peel the glue apart, you'll see that they just "twist" and lock into the mounting basket. If you take that apart, the factory mount will accept a 6.5" speaker... but it's a flimsy mount so you're definitely right that it needs custom work... maybe that's what you were referring to? But even if you do that, IIRC you have less than 3.5" of mounting depth for the front doors. That's usually enough for most 6.5" speakers, but being that shallow doesn't do anything for bass at all. I have 6.5" speakers in the rear doors, but I keep those turned down quite a bit because having everything come from behind me sounds goofy. These are what I used in the front doors for mids... They're listed as a 4.5", but they're actually 5.25". They have more midbass than my MB Quarts did (and definitely more than those Alpines), but that isn't saying much because they still suck. Considering making some something out of fiberglass to mount a 6.5" in and cutting that stamped steel basket that's in the door behind the speaker out so I can (maybe?) get more depth... but I have no idea how close that is to the window (I might not have anymore room). I also think I might try a single ported 10" woofer instead of the JL Audio 12" subs that are in there now. I should just throw in the towel on this and call it good, I'm already sick of working on it... but once I start something I can't, it's like a disease I have.