bob82pigdog

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Everything posted by bob82pigdog

  1. No stupid questions at this point! I saw the stickers on the clutch that you are talking about, but I have no idea if they installed it properly. That's exactly why I hate paying a shop to work on my cars. I just don't have the time or space to do the work right now so my hand was forced. I visited the shop this morning. The clutch pedal feels great. With the motor on and the clutch pedal pushed in the shifter will not go into gear. It doesn't grind, it just feels like something is preventing the shifter cables from budging. But with the motor off I can move the shifter through the gears so I think the cables are fine. If I move the shifter into first with the motor off, then turn the motor on I can let off the clutch and first gear has been engaged and the car lurches forward. But then I can't get it back out of first until I turn the car back off. I think the shop technician is pretty pissed at me, and he says the newer style throwout bearing doesn't have enough throw to engage the pressure plate fingers. I don't know how all the other guys with DMF setups convert their cars to single mass and keep the internal slave then?! That brings me back to the clutch master thing. That's the only thing I can see different about my car and one of the newer swapped cars. I'm gonna have them install the newer style master from my parts car and see if that changes anything.
  2. I'm in the middle of having a shop replace my clutch with a SPEC stage 2 (part # SO132) for a 1998 pre VIN break single mass flywheel car. While they are at it I asked them to re-install a more fresh M56 from a 98 S70 internal slave car instead of my old transmission which has a bad 2nd gear. Basically they are converting my factory single mass flywheel external slave car to an internal slave car. They just called today and said it's all back together but the car won't go into gear. Frick. They said they bled the line twice and it looks fine and that the clutch pedal feels fine as well. They think I ordered the wrong parts because they say since the transmission is from a post VIN break car it needs a post VIN break clutch and pressure plate. I tried to convinced them that what matters is the clutch and pressure plate need to match the corresponding flywheel style and that the transmission itself doesn't matter. I told them plenty of people have swapped their dual mass flywheels to singles still using the internal slave. Last week I gave them the newer transmission with a new internal slave/ throw out bearing installed and a new clutch line for the internal slave cars. I kept the same clutch master cylinder installed since I couldn't find evidence that it needed to be changed for the internal slave swap. Many people with factory dual mass flywheels and internal slaves have successfully swapped to single mass flywheels and a corresponding SMF clutch. But, as far as I know, the only thing different between my car and one of those newer swapped cars at this point is the clutch master cylinder. There are 2 part numbers for them based on the VIN breaks and they look slightly different. My theory is that the older style clutch master isn't supplying enough pressure or displacing enough fluid to move the throw out bearing into the pressure plate fingers, thus keeping it from going into gear. I'm thinking if I have them swap on the newer style clutch master I might be OK. How does that theory sound? After I installed the Quaife and resealed the case, I turned the input shaft and shifted through all the gears. Everything felt fine. If it's not going into gear it's gotta be something with the slave/ throw out not traveling enough, right? What else could keep it from getting into gear? Could anything be going on with the shift cables maybe? I'm going to stop by the shop first thing in the morning and see if I can see what the TOB is doing by peeling back the dust cover where the clutch line goes into the transmission case. Depending on what I can see with the TOB, I might try shifting with the levers on top of the transmission to see if it will go in gear. Let me know what ideas you have! See different clutch master cylinders here: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/43753/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-KG19004704/
  3. Put the Quaife and gear clusters back in and sealed the transmission case. Installed new slave/ TOB. Finally ready to go back in the car.
  4. Cut and punched out subframe bushings with the subframe off the car, then cleaned and degreased it. Ordered CJ's delrin bushings.
  5. Call me Sherlock Holmes because I've cracked the case:
  6. HAH! That's exactly where I had planned on buying a new elastomer from! It took me forever to find that site myself. I should have posted that bike here sooner. Thanks for sharing the link. I am going to buy the new elastomer and ship it and the fork to Mendon Cyclesmith in New York to have them rebuild it. I was really close to converting to a "normal" fork until I stumbled across the guys that make elastomers for them. There is nowhere else in the world that I found that makes elastomers to rebuild these old turds except suspensionforkparts.net. I already have enough bikes with regular forks so I'm excited to keep this one as it came.
  7. Thanks! Headshok is blown on it and really I paid too much. But c'mon, a Volvo Cannondale? I drive a Volvo and live in Atlanta! I couldn't pass it up. It looks great on my roof rack! Headshok is getting rebuilt soon and some components will be updated. I can't decide if I want to single speed it or keep it geared. It has XTR components except the crank, shifters and front deralleur.
  8. Here are my current bikes My daily, 2003 Specialized Enduro: For the road, Motobecane Immortal Force Jamis Dragon Singlespeed: My pride and joy, 1996 Atlanta Olympics Team USA Volvo Cannondale: Getting built soon, GT LTS "My wife's bike" Cannondale Jekyll:
  9. So 3,600 miles ( ) in after I soldered in the diode on my ECU harness, I still have 5 monitors not ready two of which include O2 sensor and SAS. I know these cars take a long time to set the readiness monitors, I did the stupid 'readiness' procedure twice and it didn't work. No way it's gonna happen again, the roads around me don't really allow it. I am starting to worry that something might have gone wrong with my SAS delete diode install. I have already seen the SAS readiness monitor get set once about 300 miles after I soldered the diode in, but that was at the same time my CEL came on. After finding an evap leak and replacing the front O2 sensor, 3,600 miles later still no readiness. The 5 monitors that are incomplete are Catalyst Monitor, EVAP system monitor, SAS, Oxygen Sensor Monitor, and Oxygen Sensor Heater (?). I know the SAS delete diode involves an 02 sensor wire. Could the diode somehow be screwing with the O2 sensor readiness? Is there something fishy going on? Or do I need to just suck it up and keep driving until they reset? Here are some shots of my scanner:
  10. Cool, thanks! That C30 looks awesome. Thanks for the link. Those are the exact wheels I'm thinking about for my wagon.
  11. Andy, can you get some pictures of the inside of your rear arches now that they have been rolled? Just curious to see what the rears end up looking like with that double wall and everything. Do you have any pics of your friend's C30 with the Porsche wheels on to share?
  12. I think the Cratoss look pretty good on the wagon. I do like the Saab wheels better than Cratos for sure, though. I think I'm going to keep them! Sorry, wifey. Question now is do I swap the tires? To me 225s on the Volvo wheels look too meaty on the Saab and 215s on the Saab wheels look a little skimpy on the Volvo.
  13. Well, it works! Got my wife's 9-3 Aero wheels on the wagon, and my Cratos wheels on her car. I was bummed to find that they won't fit a Porsche/R BBK though. I checked with the IPD gauge. Also couldn;t get the center caps to swap nicely. I like the Saab wheels better on my Volvo than the Volvo wheels on her Saab. What do you guys think?
  14. Correct, no CELs but still need monitors to reach ready state. Currently 3 are ready and 5 are not. I am allowed to have 2 not ready ready and still pass. I have been plugging up my Harbor Freight scanner every time I reach a destination to check on things. I have read some of the readiness procedure threads and have tried my best on several occasions, but it's pretty ridiculous. I don't know how people are able to even come close to following the steps on public roads. I haven't seen the one you posted though, I'll read through it. Thanks.
  15. Yes, I need emissions to be current. Problem is I am already in the 30 day grace period, but still have a week or two. I think my mistake was showing up knowingly with a CEL for a bad O2 sensor. I have a sneaky suspicion that if I would have cleared the codes then showed up they would have said, "Oh you have a 98 Volvo with problems getting readiness. You don't have a check engine light on so you're good." But since I showed up with it they had no choice but to fail me and they are not extending the same grace to me now that my readiness isn't set. It's been 2000 miles since I soldered the diode, 1600 miles since I cleared the O2 sensor code, and 200 since the new front O2 sensor. I'll update when something happens.
  16. Indeed, Mr. Dastardly. The slanted surface is not ideal but I have lifted it there successfully tens of times, albeit more carefully and in better lighting conditions. Where do you lift the car from? Or do you lift one side at a time?
  17. I'll find out for sure and post up some pictures. I like our SAAB's wheels way better than mine at the moment. I'm very excited.
  18. So you're telling me SAAB 5 x 110 wheels bolt straight up to Volvo 5 x 108 without an adapter!? If so I'm swapping wheels with my wife's 9-3 this weekend just for fun!! Looks like your jack incident happened at night, too!
  19. Any update on the P0133 code? Same exact thing happened to me. Waited until the month my emissions were due (like an idiot) to solder in the diode. A couple days later I pass the SAS monitor!.. But only to find an Evap leak code still left. Fixed that then, Boom! "front O2 sensor slow to respond" CEL shows up. Just replaced the front O2 sensor so crossing my fingers the freaking readiness monitors will set soon, and I'll have no more CELs! I'm already 3 days overdue on renewing my registration and am sweating bullets every time I drive. I HATE getting pulled over.
  20. Holy crap that's scary, Tighe! What kind of spacers are you using to fit those SAAB wheels on your car? Dropped it onto a jack. Small piece of 2x4 on top of the jack slipped and the car fell onto the fully raised jack. Put a really nice bend in my radiator as well breaking the fan shroud and denting the A/C condenser and intercooler as well. This is the kind of stuff that really pisses me off. Who wants to place bets on how long the radiator goes before blowing a leak? I've already driven 186 miles today.
  21. Does the cable tension need to be adjusted at all on a brand new throttle cable?
  22. Ahh, cool. I see the 98 V70 T5A in your signature now. Big plans for it? Thanks for that link matt b!
  23. Gary, I like that strip on the bumper of the wagon! What did you make it from? Also when did you get a wagon?!