Swedish Mike

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About Swedish Mike

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    bow to the swede
  • Birthday 05/13/1978

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    Girls, cars and JD.

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  1. Mike where are you???You left Volvos for nissan!!!

  2. Crazy story, good luck and check the oil flow before you start it up. /Mike
  3. If you plan to keep the internals stock I would pick another turbo, a new Mitsu is a better choise. /Mike
  4. They might, better to give them a CAD file as you said, never mention what it´s for. A bit scared of China quality, I think I would make a piece like this over here or in US, not that hard/expensive. /Mike
  5. You are welcome to do that, just rob a bank. I just wanted to know if we had some crazy CNC guy here or someone with contacts. /Mike
  6. No need yet, no real trailer queen car, we build street able cars most of the time. Yeah, might add some coolant holes but that´s scary cause it might boil if I add a few small ones and the water is standing still too much. You need the flow to make it work and it´s hard to know before you start it up. Forgot to tell you about the plate design. The steel sleeve goes through both new plate and stock cylinder, no edge. /Mike
  7. This is crazy enough. I shaved off the block 30 mm to get rid of the weak block top, the stud threads started 30 mm down the hole, never touched them. Made a 30 mm alu plate (T6 I think) and made holes like a big head gasket. Mounted the plate on top of the block and took up the cylinders to 85 mm bore (81 stock), ordered custom sleeves, 85 mm outside and 80 mm inner. Kept a "step" in the bottom of the cylinders for sleeve support. Did it work? Don´t know, never used it. No cooling? Nope, made for methanol, cooling in head only. Agree, that´s the hard part. /Mike
  8. For this cylinder pack we would need C-C between cylinders, height, inner diameter and wall thickness. That´s all for making a CAD file right? /Mike
  9. Forgot, there is one more problem with this. A steel cylinder pack in a alu block need to be sealed in the bottom. Maybe using some sort of gasket, glue or other solution, a water leak into crank case would damage a lot. A moving soft alu block at high revs/boost might be hard to seal, hmm... You maybe want to hear another block solution I´m working at? For drag only. /Mike
  10. I want one and test it first, not sure it will work and a GB with tons of US guys using a bad solution is not good. By the way, how many 800+hp engines are you guys planing? Can the China guys make one for test? Probably same price as making one here, they only make a lot of each part huh? /Mike
  11. We´ve done exactly what you describe. You can read more about it in this thread. /Mike
  12. Interesting, I will ask around and check how much a company would charge for a job like that. /Mike
  13. The problem in other engines with this solution is the height difference from cold to warm engine, alu and iron expand different and a thick piece as this will probably cause trouble, head gasket trouble. Might work but you will mount a hard piece of iron in a soft and weak block, I bet it would cause problems like all the other solutions. If I found a cheap CNC guy I would try it but never spend 10K USD just to test it. /Mike
  14. Could be done but a lot of work and cash, you need to machine the block to fit the new cylinder block and make the block from a piece of steel. When this is done we probably kill the head stud threads instead.. Damn alu... /Mike Edit: You mean like this -> http://www.stenparnermotor.se/