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gdog last won the day on July 23

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About gdog

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  1. Likely the starter solenoid. But easy enough to verify with some testing; see if pwr gets to small green (IIRC) wire going to starter motor as soon as key is turned to start position. If no, problem is upstream (ign switch, relay, trans prndl switch, etc.). But if you do get pwr to the green wire as soon as key is in start position, then issue is at the starter; either the solenoid, or internal to the starter. Also ck for loose connection where battery cable is tied to the starter with a nut.
  2. Assume you've seen this? 18t turbos are really hard to come by now. I got mine as a rebuilt from ARD several years ago. The 19t is more readily available on ebay and elsewhere. You want the 7cm^2 angled housings and I bought mine new on ebay (for like $150 IIRC) when my search for a good used one a few years ended w/o success. AFAIK the 6cm^2 and 7cm^2 housings fit the same; just the latter flows a bit better. Either way, you're going to need a tune when up-sizing the turbo. Got someone lined up? Spanky!? He hasn't been around since I've been on here, but from what I read (on very old posts) he ended screwing some people so he kinda got run off. Someone else can chime in if they know more.
  3. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    That's some crazy sh*t there. Doubt the fuel pump can lose pressure that quickly but I would definitely rule that out by taking a drive with fuel rail pressure gauge attached. Could be fuel pressure regulator too. But seems more likely a bad maf sensor or mis-calibrated table maybe? It seems all of the sudden your AFR request is going way too lean, but instead of going lean, the ecu seems to be commanding it to go richer, (per the inj duty cycle going off the charts). It seems you've got a serious hardware or firmware fault there. Do you have a different bin, maf, etc. that you can try that makes a difference? When did this start happening; i.e. what changed? E.g. did you try loading this bin onto an extra ecu to eliminate the ostrich? Only other thing that comes to mind is check all you tables (load request, ignition, AFR request, TCV duty cycle, etc.) for smoothness. It's happened to me before, where I fat-fingered some entry that's way out of line; creates quite the hiccup in drive-ability!
  4. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    Yeah I wish @venderbroeck was on here more too but everyone's got their life to live. Hopefully in the future.. What do you mean by TCV setpoint? And I couldn't really tell much from those pics. Was the BTC (boost threshold control) ever working? Did you try to disable it (BTC) and problem goes away? What's your "boost threshold for LDR active" table look like? I.e. at what setpoint does LDR control kick in? On mine the table units are in bar BTW, and I have mine set to 0.54 for all rpms. Yeah, sorry; doesn't make any sense to me either.
  5. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    OK I found it; it's not what I mentioned in previous post. What you're referring to is uniqueid 0x20CC in .xdf file. I've never heard of anyone mucking with that or having an issue with it either. On my bin it's been repurposed for "boost threshold control" by @venderbroeck
  6. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    Are you referring to "DKADN Throttle angle threshold for charge pressure increase" or something else? Mine's set to 10 for all rpms. Don't think I've messed with it. What do mean by low speed? Talking low load on the engine, or what?
  7. Bad mass air flow?? S70

    Are you suggesting a bad MAF sensor can cause boost leaks?? If this is "tuned" car, have you talked to your tuner? Looked at logs, etc. Any DTCs, etc. etc
  8. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    Thanks for your list @Avinitlarge; yours seems to be subset of @rkam 's list and everything on there is M4.4.1 so those should work. I've used 204 460's and 204 610's so far and know they work. Can you show us where these 0 ohm jumpers go on the N/A, or is it obvious if you just follow the TCV pins back?
  9. I don't see how a thermostat could cause those symptoms. Sounds like the sensor and wiring to the ECU is working properly which means either the wiring between the ECU and instrument cluster or an issue inside the cluster itself.
  10. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    @rkam et al, Looking for comprehensive list of M4.4 ECUs and found this post via the wiki: Question: are M4.4.x equivalent to M4.4 ECUs for our M4.4 self-tuning purposes? I.e. is the difference only firmware? TIA!
  11. Sounds like an issue with either the ECT connector and/or the wiring to it. Disconnect the ECT sensor and ohm the brown wire (on harness side) to ground; should be zero ohms. Open or significantly higher than 0 ohms is an issue. If that's fine you can check to see if you have 5v with key in run on the other wire. Could also try shorting the ground and sensor wires on the harness side with a jumper wire. Then when key in run, gauge should go all the way up, but may take a few seconds. If it doesn't, you got an issue with either the ground or sense wire. If it works as expected, then maybe you have poor connection at the connector. Here's a link that helps explain:
  12. @OP: you really didn't give enough info to determine what the issue is. But for methods on checking the wheel bearings:
  13. a wmi install..

    One psi?! This is @Piet's algo (as implemented by @venderbroeck) so it switches on the wmi based on load. I was switching at 5.25 ms (which corresponds to about 6.5 to 7 psi boost) but recently bumped that up to 6 ms. Probably use about 2/3 gallon a week I'd say. It's my DD. You're historical!!
  14. PCV and excessive oil loss?

    You mean insert the ez-coil inside the hose? NO; that will cause clogging. I used 1/2" copper plumbing fitting with about an inch or so 1/2" pipe sticking out both ends so the hose has something to clamp onto. Solder (or jb weld) the sections of pipe into the elbow.