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gdog last won the day on July 23

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About gdog

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  1. Spark blowout

    Glad you found it! Man, you need to get into the M4.4 world!
  2. Spark blowout

    That's very odd; you shouldn't get "spark blowout" with only 6 psi of boost. Did something else change recently? Ck compression?
  3. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    @lowkeyturbo Is your KRCOUNT going > 1? A KRCOUNT of 1 will turn on the CEL, but per Aaron (tmm9), an occasional 1 count can be safely tolerated. But a KRCOUNT of more than 1 is something to be concerned with. Your ign map looks about like mine, and mods are appropriate too. I battled trying to get more out of my setup too for about a year on pump gas; was even running octane booster (don't do it!) until I eventually went to WMI. That's the ticket! I can run 3-4 degrees more ign timing on my wmi map w/o any knock at all. The downside is, you will then be able to pull loads that will make the non-COP ign system weak in the knees. So recommend you do both (wmi and COP) mods at the same time. Wish I did in hindsight.
  4. Volvo V70 T5 1998 with engine B5244T5

    Yeah, changing the head to get more torque is a bit drastic. As others said, make sure your cam timing is currently correct first. And VVT is indeed locked down. Then if you want to adjust your cam timing for more torque in low rpm range, try advancing both cams a bit. BTW I have no experience with VVT setup; I'm assuming the cam sprockets are slotted like the N 20 valve engines? In general advancing cam timing moves pwr band lower in rpm, retarding moves it higher. Within limits of course. You could also decrease cam overlap too, if desired; that should improve low end performance (maybe; kind of depends on other factors too). Do this by retarding the intake or advancing the exhaust cam.
  5. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    Man, don't let this thread die..! Anyone doing new M4.4 dev that they're willing to share..? Sorry, didn't see this earlier. Do you still need help?
  6. GM 3 BAR MAP Formula

    Now we're getting somewhere.. but before we continue, I should explain; I said above when x is 0 on my gauge it's reading -21.7 psi, that's in terms of boost, not absolute pressure. That's the way my AEM gauge is designed; to read pressure relative to ambient. Keep in mind ambient pressure around sea level is generally about 14.7 psi. This GM part is an absolute pressure sensor. From your link: 1 PSI = 2.036" of Mercury (HG) 1" mercury = 0.4911541 PSI Formula for the GM 3 Bar MAP sensor is (V*8.94)-14.53 This formula appears to be in terms of boost also, and in psi units. So now you need to decide what units you want to log: psi, bar, kpa, etc. and in terms of absolute pressure or boost? Since this is just for logging, I would think you'd want to have the output in terms of boost? Going to also assume units of psi too, so we can use above. If you want other units, you just need to convert all the static terms in your equation. Assuming so, then you have to convert the voltage input to x (0-255 byte value) form. The way I like to do this is ratios: V/5 = x/255; => V in terms of x => V(x) = 5*x/255. Sanity ck: when x = 0, then V is also 0; when x is 255, then V is 5v. So I think this should work: ((5*X/255)*8.94) - 14.53 You could multiply it out to simplify terms if you want. Sanity ck it using the endpoints (x = 0 and x = 255) and also at 0 boost (14.7 psi or about 100 kpa). Per the table from your link, 100 kpa correlates to about 1.6v. So what is that in terms of x? Again, i would use ratios: 1.6/5 = x/255; solve for x to get about 81.6; plug that into above to get about 0; again in terms of boost this looks correct.
  7. GM 3 BAR MAP Formula

    You'll need the transfer function for the sensor; i.e. for a given pressure, what's the signal voltage output. Usually given either as a table or formula (or both). Didn't see it on your ebay link. At minimum you'll need the dynamic range (lowest pressure it can read, to highest). Did it come with any documentation? If not, you'll have to characterize yourself by inputting a known pressure and reading/logging the signal voltage out at each pressure point. Would hope it's linear but don't know. Regarding the wiki, I have no idea what this is supposed to be, but my guess is it's confused; at x = 0, the output is 14.5. err psi? When x is 0 on my gauge it's reading -21.7 psi. Keep in mind x is a byte value so its range is 0-255. Please, if you're going to document an ADX formula, specify for what sensor it is relevant.
  8. Reading 4.3 flash results in 00

    Sorry about that; I stand corrected. MPTY! Guess I was thinking about 4.4. @rkam is probably your best bet. Any reason you can't do new dev on a 4.4 ecu while keeping your tuned 4.3 in your back pocket? Just curious..
  9. Reading 4.3 flash results in 00

    Not that I've heard of? Everything I've read says it cannot be read directly from the ecu; have to remove the flash chip and install it into a chip reader. Besides don't you have access to the stock 4.3 bin, or is there some tune on there you're trying to preserve? If so, just get yourself a spare ecu for your experimenting; that'd be safer anyway. What car/engine is this for? If you're going to M4.4 eventually, why bother at all with 4.3? Lots more experience on this site with 4.4 tuning I'm sure.
  10. a wmi install..

    Just an update: Don't think this issue was AFR related after all, but actually something commonly known as "spark blowout"; essentially the stock ignition system starts to break down under the loads I can now pull with WMI. I.e. need COP conversion to keep going.. Talked about in this thread:
  11. Rough clutch pedal

    Is the issue just a "squeaky" pedal, or "rough" in its travel excursion? And if the latter, is it only "rough" once the pedal starts to compress the pressure plate, or through its whole travel (all the way up, to down to the floor)? Never seen heat affect the hydraulics or mechanical linkage, but suppose it's possible. Assume you already tried spray grease on the mechanical points in the linkage?
  12. Rough clutch pedal

    Please don't take offense, but I've read this post a few times now, and I cannot visualize what you're talking about. My best guess is maybe something like this: With the engine running and in neutral, you push in the clutch pedal just enough to take up the slack, but not enough to disengage the clutch; does it feel like the clutch pedal is modulating in and out slightly? Does the frequency of this modulation increase with engine speed? If that's the case, then your clutch pressure plate is starting to come apart. If that's not it, please try again to describe your symptoms.
  13. How to open ECM box on S70

    Can't tell from your pic but appears to be a bolt/screw holding that strap on the left. You can't remove it? Never seen that before; what's the nationality of the car? There's always a die-grinder with a cut-off wheel..
  14. 242 -> 252

    pure insanity.. therefore love it!