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gdog last won the day on August 12

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About gdog

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  1. Wow, that cleaned up nicely!! Good job, and welcome to VS!
  2. Not a fan of HF at all. Everything I've ever bought there ended up in the sh*t can. Why risk your life to save a few bucks? Not worth it. Good quality tools don't cost that much more.
  3. That's $5000 worth of repairs?!! Yes, that's a ripoff. BTW that's 2x what that car is worth. Engine oil leaks: Unless your car's leaving huge puddles of oil on the ground, it's not that critical that it's fixed asap. It could stay that way for years; just keep an eye on your oil level and make sure it doesn't get too low. A lot more oil will go out the tail pipe (e.g. via leaking valve guide seals) than will ever leak on the ground. If you do the repair yourself, you can go one of two ways: buy the OEM lines and seals from fcp or ipd for about $300 IIRC and install them, or rebuild the lines by replacing just the rubber hose part. That's what I and others here have done; total parts cost is less than $100. The air pump on your car has absolutely nothing to do with driveability; it's a smog device and since you're in WA, I doubt they even check its functionality. Unless it's setting a code I don't think you should care about it. Any brake hose over 10 years old is going to looked cracked. And they will continue to look cracked for at least another 10 years before they even start to begin to fail. If you're that concerned about it, get some aftermarket steel braided lines for about $100 and install them yourself. Get yourself a pressure brake bleeder for about $50 and go to town. Aftermarket CV axles can be had for about $70 a piece; yeah they're rebuilt and not the best, but plenty adequate for your purposes. You can rebuild your front suspension with OEM parts (I doubt your shop is using OEM) for less than $500, including the tools you'll need to do the job. They're recommending you fix stuff that isn't critical, and for ridiculous prices. For $5000, I'd expect a complete engine rebuild, but I'd never spend that.. If you want to learn how to repair cars yourself, you picked an excellent example with the volvo P80 platform. They're great cars and they're relatively easy to work on. Take it slow, one job at a time, and you'll soon be amazing yourself as to what you can accomplish. Then when you do need to go to a professional tech on occasion, you'll be able to discern yourself if he's BS'ing you, or not. There are good pro techs out there, I used to be one, but unfortunately there are as many (if not more) shady ones. It's sad, but true, even at dealerships. Don't know if it's feasible, but see if local community college offers any auto tech classes; good way to learn. Can always post on VS if you get stuck; good luck. PS; you should post something like this here BTW:
  4. Yes, per the schematic, A15 is 5v supply wire dedicated for TPS use. But it's possible that wire could be shorted to another circuit allowing a partial short circuit to ground. To be specific I'd suggest two tests with, key off, and with TPS connector disconnected, and ecu removed from car: Ohm out A15 at ecu connector to pin 2 on TPS connector. Expect 0 ohms (or darn near) and wiggle the harness at multiple points to verify it doesn't change. The easiest way to do this I've found is to use small paper clips and alligator clip leads to hook up your ohm meter to the ecu and TPS pins. Of course be careful not to bend the connectors! This will free your hands up to agitate the harness. If your meter reads significantly more more than 0 ohms, or the reading changes while you're moving the harness, then there's a high resistance somewhere in that wire, and that's a problem. Assuming test 1 above is fine, then make sure this wire does not have some side short path to ground. This could be a partial short to a ground, or maybe to another circuit allowing an alternate current path to ground. Hook one lead of ohm meter to A15 (or pin 2 on TPS) and other lead to ground. Again jiggle the harness; should always be infinite ohms. You can do the same tests on the A16 wire, but above posts don't indicate a problem there.
  5. That's weird; I based my last post on yours where you said the voltage disappeared when you disturbed the harness. I'd ohm out all 3 wires between ecu and TPS connector; make sure each is 0 ohms between ecu and tps. One thing that could drop the supply voltage is a partial short to ground (or another circuit) on the A15 wire, so check for that. I meant to mention it before, do you have another ecu to try? It can be stock, to just check the voltage in key RUN position.
  6. Yep, there's your issue! It (the reference voltage on ecu pin A15) should not move around at all. I'd guess you have at least one smashed wire inside your engine harness at that point. Going to have to open that up and inspect ALL the wires in that area; who knows what else you'll find?! BTW: I just rechecked A15 voltage on my car and on bench flashing setup with another ecu; get just over 5v on both. And it will not move if battery voltage changes a bit; the ecu regulates it to stay at 5v. Check it again after you fix the wiring.
  7. Don't see a bigger intercooler on your list. Make sure you get the 3" TB hose too for the N/A TB. do88 is good:
  8. I assume you're measuring this at the TPS connector between pins 1 (ground: brown w/black tracer wire) and pin 3 (signal: orange w/white tracer wire) at WOT? Make sure you have 5 volts between pins 1 and 2 (5v reference: yellow wire) at TPS connector. If you don't, something's amiss either in your wiring or the ecu itself. Mechanical check: Have a helper hold down the gas pedal WOT while the throttle body cover and boot is off. While they're still holding it, move the throttle bell crank from under the hood; are you able to open the throttle any more? If you can (and you now get 4.5 volts on signal wire) then you either have too much slack in throttle cable, or need a new cable. connector A on ECU and TPS (7/54 in diagram) below:
  9. Sounds like fun. Might get more feedback posting in Performance Mods section?
  10. Can anyone recommend a good indy volvo shop in Portland OR area for maintenance/diagnostic work? A friend has a nice V70R, 04-06 MY (can't remember exact MY offhand) that needs some of above. Yelp is almost worthless because most people only care about customer service (and not whether they're being ripped off, or not..). Two of the shops on yelp's top 10 list, I'd never take my car to! TIA!
  11. Hmm, usually @bmdubya1198 advice is spot on, but have to disagree here; 10.4v cranking voltage should be fine and doubt that's the source of your issue. The threshold is generally considered about 9.6v; see below link for more details: Check for spark; IIRC if ecu does not sense spark signal, it will cut signal(s) to injectors to avoid flooding the engine. Let us know how you make out; interesting project.
  12. Piet came up with A/C mod in ecu firmware that works in most cases. Some with GLT 850 in USA models had issues where it didn't work.
  13. Yes, you should get 4.5v on the signal pin at WOT, or very close to it. Did you verify the throttle plate is going horizontal at WOT? If not, you have a mechanical issue. Are both TPS parts you tested new? This thread is relevant too: