gdog

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gdog last won the day on October 30 2020

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About gdog

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    SE MI
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    MWC

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  1. 2012 MY is a 9 or 10 year old car now. Caliper seals generally fail from corrosion happening inside the caliper, usually from water condensing in the brake fluid. Owner is supposed to completely flush the brake fluid throughout the whole system every 3-5 years to avoid this problem happening. If it's never been flushed, or maybe only once in its lifetime, then yeah, I could see a corrosion problem cropping up. And don't EVER sell your 850, but it may be due for a brake fluid flush?
  2. Excellent work Matt! Really appreciate vids like this that are, not only interesting, but instructional too. I've always wanted to get a welder and learn how to, but haven't so far. For me, and I'm sure lots of others, this is really good stuff. I know nada about welding, but was concerned at first when you were going sleeve-less on your arms; glad to see you transitioned to sleeves in latter part of vid. Any newbie welder should check out pages like this for their own safety: www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/welding/ppe.html Would be interested in a review of the helmet/shield th
  3. Means cylinders with little, or no, compression.
  4. Welcome to VS and your English is fine! So I'm curious; are these old Volvos more popular here (in the USA) than in Sweden? I.e. isn't there a good forum in volvo's native land? In any case, will try to help if I can. Are you sure you're not getting any spark on those two cylinders? If cylinders 2 and 3 were consistently misfiring, I'd expect two more codes (302 and 303) per below. •P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected •P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected •P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected •P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected •P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detec
  5. FYI: I did a little write-up on how to figure out those formulas; converting volts to bits can be confusing for sure. www.volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159506-tuners-rejoice-free-tuning-for-m44/?do=findComment&comment=2431917
  6. Apparently this is a pretty common failure, but this is first time I've seen it. The center toggle switch on my interior dome light exploded and now dome lights don't work at all. This is the switch on interior ceiling just back from the interior mirror and ahead of the sunroof. Went searching for new switch but too expensive! I think this is P/N: 9483142 https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/9871/Dome-Light-9178823/ Used ones are long shot at this point since they're probably broken (or close to it) now too. Pulled up the schematic to see what I could do.
  7. CA is such a PITA when it comes to smog tests! Not sure off-hand about the 2 monitor limit but volvo 96 to 98 MYs have known issues regarding OBD2 monitors which should get you a waiver on that front. Read more: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/170393-convert-daily-driver-850-to-44/?do=findComment&comment=2381729
  8. Uh, I think it's #3? The ecu gets constant (non-switched) 12v pwr on pin A26 directly from the battery; it does not go through any relays. There are some relays that are fed constant pwr, but doubt 101/102 is one of them. What's the issue you're trying to fix?
  9. Re-grinds are not so great for a variety of reasons, especially for bucket/shim overhead cam engines w/o rockers. Besides, unless you're going for large power upgrades, cam lift/timing isn't as critical, especially for turbo-charged engine application. From your prior post, see you're going with 16t? A slightly larger turbo (say 19t, or more) and corresponding tune will make much more difference. When turning up the boost, you'll soon find detonation is limiting factor. E85 fuel, or water/methanol injection can allow you to turn it up past 11...
  10. Yes, per the schematic, A15 is 5v supply wire dedicated for TPS use. But it's possible that wire could be shorted to another circuit allowing a partial short circuit to ground. To be specific I'd suggest two tests with, key off, and with TPS connector disconnected, and ecu removed from car: Ohm out A15 at ecu connector to pin 2 on TPS connector. Expect 0 ohms (or darn near) and wiggle the harness at multiple points to verify it doesn't change. The easiest way to do this I've found is to use small paper clips and alligator clip leads to hook up your ohm meter to the ecu and TPS pins
  11. That's weird; I based my last post on yours where you said the voltage disappeared when you disturbed the harness. I'd ohm out all 3 wires between ecu and TPS connector; make sure each is 0 ohms between ecu and tps. One thing that could drop the supply voltage is a partial short to ground (or another circuit) on the A15 wire, so check for that. I meant to mention it before, do you have another ecu to try? It can be stock, to just check the voltage in key RUN position.
  12. Yep, there's your issue! It (the reference voltage on ecu pin A15) should not move around at all. I'd guess you have at least one smashed wire inside your engine harness at that point. Going to have to open that up and inspect ALL the wires in that area; who knows what else you'll find?! BTW: I just rechecked A15 voltage on my car and on bench flashing setup with another ecu; get just over 5v on both. And it will not move if battery voltage changes a bit; the ecu regulates it to stay at 5v. Check it again after you fix the wiring.
  13. I assume you're measuring this at the TPS connector between pins 1 (ground: brown w/black tracer wire) and pin 3 (signal: orange w/white tracer wire) at WOT? Make sure you have 5 volts between pins 1 and 2 (5v reference: yellow wire) at TPS connector. If you don't, something's amiss either in your wiring or the ecu itself. Mechanical check: Have a helper hold down the gas pedal WOT while the throttle body cover and boot is off. While they're still holding it, move the throttle bell crank from under the hood; are you able to open the throttle any more? If you can (and you now get 4
  14. Piet came up with A/C mod in ecu firmware that works in most cases. Some with GLT 850 in USA models had issues where it didn't work.