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Everything posted by gdog

  1. OK, come on, where did you find this needle in a haystack? You're telling me you just eyed the local CL and there it was? We found our '98 S70 GLT with only 50K miles on it, but that was over ten years ago!! And it was like a 2-3 year search to boot. Give me some tips man..? And this is back; WTH?!
  2. Assuming no one was hurt; yes? Don't let it die, it's an olive for crying out loud! It actually doesn't look too bad..
  3. Honestly I wouldn't bother; they're kind of worthless in most people's opinion. I'd just unplug them and forget it. I removed mine on the 850 but it's been so long ago I don't recall the process. I don't know if the S70 '98 is exactly the same or similar, but I do remember the 850's were a royal PITA to remove. Don't want to even imagine putting new ones in.
  4. If it was running that rich you likely have gas diluted engine oil. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil; if it smells like gas, change the oil and filter. Gas in the oil will make it run like sh*t and fail smog test; FYI.
  5. Woah dude, just watched this larry david episode!! Maybe this is OK in FL man, but.. JK, of course..
  6. Yep, mine is auto as well. I wonder if that's a connection? Very few people are running M4.4 on autos AFAIK.
  7. Had mine disabled for years now. I think it's too sensitive TBH. When I first started M4.4 DIY tuning, had same experience as on your GLT; random phantom misfire codes. Finally just disabled it and haven't looked back. But if you do start experiencing real misfires, then you can turn it back on; hopefully will help locate which cyl is misfiring. BTW is the GLT an auto or manual trans? Wonder if that's common.
  8. Are you DIY M4.4 tuning now, before you get your vast tune? If not you'll need to wait until you get your tune. I've never used a vast tune so don't know how flexible he makes it as far as choosing which A/D channels to use for which function. Another question is do you need to do smog certs periodically? Basically you have two A/D input channels typically used for tuning: Fuel tank pressure (not used in north america vehicles AFAIK on pre-MY99) Rear O2 (needed for smog certs) When I was living in OR we had smog certs every two years. So what I did was wire up a jumper connector in the ecu box so I could switch-in the rear O2 sensor into the ecu when I had to do smog testing, and switch jumper back to WB input afterward. Had two ecus; one w/stock firmware load (other than tweaks for bigger injectors, etc.) and one for regular DIY tuning which used this channel for WB input. Easier of course if don't need to worry about smog certs. Because this will free up the front O2 channel for use, as well as the rear O2 channel. BTW: I'm interested in your user experience with WB regulation; I didn't see a great improvement when I was using it, so went back to NB DIY tuning awhile ago for simplicity. But I was not using Aaron's WB regulation solution. In theory, WB regulation is the way to go, and AFAIK all modern vehicles use this methodology. To get back to your question, I would think Aaron could get you wiring directions before you physically get your kit (after you purchase of course).
  9. Anyone else still seeing this? Been happening to me for at least a week. Doesn't seem to be a browser issue; tried FF, chrome, and opera.
  10. If you're getting WB regulation in your tune, there's no need for a NB O2 sensor. People running w/both sensors are NOT doing WB regulation. They're simply logging the WB for tuning purposes to determine if their tune is too lean/rich in places. Contact Aaron at VAST for direction.
  11. First time I've seen it. Sorry OP for polluting your thread; was just trying to give you a thumbs up on your awesome project!!
  12. I got to start trolling JYs again.. good stuff!!
  13. I've seen pressure plate beginning to fail also cause this behavior; FYI. Also may want to check oil level in trans too.
  14. Yep, feel the same about my 855T! They ain't making any more of them..
  15. Well, I was about to say, "Awesome Man-Cave dude!!" until I saw this ^^^ Ah well, it's all good, right?
  16. The 609/610 ecu is for the 1998 MY S/V70 GLT (2.4L LPT) turbo (yes?), but which is for the auto trans? The 609 or 610? TIA! Looks like I can use the 609 for either trans then? Cool! NM then..
  17. Can't start a new topic in Volvospeed News so will reply here.. Curious why VS site is still in-secure (non-https) in this day and age?
  18. It's pre-1999 MY so should be able to reset SRS with vol-fcr (hopefully you still have it?). And yes, it will set the light (I think; haven't actually done that) for the SIPs system. Good to see you back in the pre-99 MY P80 game!! No mods huh? We'll see how long that lasts.. What MY is this one BTW? Or did I miss it?
  19. Is your issue only at idle? Not sure if it's related but did those guys re-cal your WB mod bin for your AEM WB sensor? I.e. this issue:
  20. That's really cool (or hot?)!! Xray vision Batman!
  21. Maybe I missed it, but what cop coils are those? Ign1A maybe? And for compression checks, get yourself a remote starter switch; you'll love it.
  22. Very good points; beginning to think 350cc reference in the xdf comment is a typo and meant to be 315cc for the stock oranges/reds. What are you using for TEMIN setting now? Seriously doubt that is your MPG issue, but regarding the TEMIN setting... The thing to keep in mind (IIRC mercuric, or someone, said this somewhere but can't find the post now) that TEMIN goes down as injector size goes up. I.e. it's inversely proportional to injector size. This makes sense then if you work out the numbers: Given: stock TEMIN = 0.34 ms for stock 315cc injectors green injectors flow about 440cc w/stock FPR (at least mine do; there are some other green variants out there) => 315/440 = 0.7159 is your "adjustment factor". Multiply this be the stock factor of 0.34ms and you get ~ 0.24ms; i.e. your TEMIN setting for 440cc greens. Per below post, this calculation seems to work for other injector sizes too. Per his signature he's running 750cc injectors so.. => 315/750 * 0.34 = ~ 0.14ms BTW: Where are you getting this poor mpg number; from your onboard car computer? Make sure your "Constant for Consumption Display" factor is correct.