gdog

Members
  • Posts

    1,278
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Everything posted by gdog

  1. Yep, feel the same about my 855T! They ain't making any more of them..
  2. The DeatschWerks DW300 should work for your application. Very good pumps for reasonable price. They don't have a specific kit for the 850 but the generic kit works well. Many on VS have used them w/o issue. I've been using the DW200 (for gas) for several years now. Not familiar w/Quantum; maybe they're good too; don't know.
  3. Well, I was about to say, "Awesome Man-Cave dude!!" until I saw this ^^^ Ah well, it's all good, right?
  4. The 609/610 ecu is for the 1998 MY S/V70 GLT (2.4L LPT) turbo (yes?), but which is for the auto trans? The 609 or 610? TIA! Looks like I can use the 609 for either trans then? Cool! NM then..
  5. Can't start a new topic in Volvospeed News so will reply here.. Curious why VS site is still in-secure (non-https) in this day and age?
  6. It's pre-1999 MY so should be able to reset SRS with vol-fcr (hopefully you still have it?). And yes, it will set the light (I think; haven't actually done that) for the SIPs system. Good to see you back in the pre-99 MY P80 game!! No mods huh? We'll see how long that lasts.. What MY is this one BTW? Or did I miss it?
  7. Is your issue only at idle? Not sure if it's related but did those guys re-cal your WB mod bin for your AEM WB sensor? I.e. this issue:
  8. That's really cool (or hot?)!! Xray vision Batman!
  9. Maybe I missed it, but what cop coils are those? Ign1A maybe? And for compression checks, get yourself a remote starter switch; you'll love it.
  10. Very good points; beginning to think 350cc reference in the xdf comment is a typo and meant to be 315cc for the stock oranges/reds. What are you using for TEMIN setting now? Seriously doubt that is your MPG issue, but regarding the TEMIN setting... The thing to keep in mind (IIRC mercuric, or someone, said this somewhere but can't find the post now) that TEMIN goes down as injector size goes up. I.e. it's inversely proportional to injector size. This makes sense then if you work out the numbers: Given: stock TEMIN = 0.34 ms for stock 315cc injectors green injectors flow about 440cc w/stock FPR (at least mine do; there are some other green variants out there) => 315/440 = 0.7159 is your "adjustment factor". Multiply this be the stock factor of 0.34ms and you get ~ 0.24ms; i.e. your TEMIN setting for 440cc greens. Per below post, this calculation seems to work for other injector sizes too. Per his signature he's running 750cc injectors so.. => 315/750 * 0.34 = ~ 0.14ms http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159506-tuners-rejoice-free-tuning-for-m44/?do=findComment&comment=2391144 BTW: Where are you getting this poor mpg number; from your onboard car computer? Make sure your "Constant for Consumption Display" factor is correct.
  11. UPDATE: That APPENDIX_J doc seems to have disappeared from the internets; if anyone has a link to a copy, please post it here and/or PM it to me. Here are some other links from that forum link above that may be as helpful though: OBD Readiness, EPA, Jan 2008 ; OBD Readiness, EPA, May 2011. ; OBD Readiness, EPA, June 2012. . The one from 2008 in particular is clear about the 96, 97, and 98 MY Volvo models that are (effectively) exempt; here's a snip from that doc: Here's a Service Bulletin that also discusses the topic of "readiness monitors": VolvoSB2-23-0056.PDF
  12. All my green bins have it (minimum injection time) set to 0.24 (ms yes?). The stock rev5b.bin has TEMIN set to 0.34. I don't remember how/why I got that number. The description in the xdf is a bit cryptic: TEMIN,{minimales TE} minimum injection time. Scale this using 350cc/min as a reference for the stock value.
  13. Did you go through the injector calibration process outlined at below link? If not, do that first. It works very well. https://m44.fandom.com/wiki/Tuning_the_Injector_constant_and_dead_times
  14. Excellent work Matt! Really appreciate vids like this that are, not only interesting, but instructional too. I've always wanted to get a welder and learn how to, but haven't so far. For me, and I'm sure lots of others, this is really good stuff. I know nada about welding, but was concerned at first when you were going sleeve-less on your arms; glad to see you transitioned to sleeves in latter part of vid. Any newbie welder should check out pages like this for their own safety: www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/welding/ppe.html Would be interested in a review of the helmet/shield that you got too. Is that one of those where you can actually see through it, w/o an arc going? Without that feature, I'd always be worried I'd start welding with my mask still up (because I need to see what I'm working on!). Was also surprised about no mandrel bends either, but I'm assuming you can't get mandrels with angles even close to as tight as you have there. Imagine you'd get a bit better flow w/mandrels, but likely not that much different. At 3.5" diameter, don't think that should be too big of a concern..
  15. FYI: I did a little write-up on how to figure out those formulas; converting volts to bits can be confusing for sure. www.volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/159506-tuners-rejoice-free-tuning-for-m44/?do=findComment&comment=2431917
  16. Piet came up with A/C mod in ecu firmware that works in most cases. Some with GLT 850 in USA models had issues where it didn't work.
  17. Aaron would be the source of truth obviously, but here are some posts about my experience w/volfcr and M4.4 self-tuning: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/173299-vol-fcr-problems/
  18. Can't tell if that's the right cable or not. I always look for some reference to Triumph motorcycles, like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-cable-for-Triumph-Motorcycles-TuneECU-FTDI-FT232RL-Chip-OBD-II-KTM-Tune-ECU-/122549303447 But assuming you do have the right cable, you need to make sure you have hooked up all the ecu power and ground wires, and no loose connections. Just hooking up one or two of them isn't going to do it. Use similar gauge wire that's in the car too.
  19. Wait, what? VS was down?! Who did the re-solder? I've had to do mine multiple times now. You've got to clean off ALL the old solder first, or it will just break again (ask me how I know.. ). Look at the solder joints with a magnifier; you'll see the cracks if you look carefully. Or @Matty Moo could take care of you too: www.midwest-abs.com
  20. That bites big bananas!! Seeing Marlon cry makes me sad too..