Zappo

I have the stock 850R radio with amp. Lately while driving the radio acts like the pause button was pressed causing all audio to stop. It normally comes back after a second or so, but sometimes it is off for over a minute. It isn't a problem with the button as the radio doesn't display PAUSE. I replaced the amp about 7 years ago as the original was damaged when the heater core broke. I haven't had an issue with it until the last month or two. Anyone else have this issue before?

Fixed another flat tire and fixed my front alignment.

Harness was new. Came with the ECU when I bought it.

Anyone else having issues with the COP harness? I have been getting miss-fires in the morning on cold starts. It corrects itself after the engine warms up a little. At first I thought it was a bad coil, but I found if I physically lift the harness the miss-fire goes away. I don't see any physical damage to the wires, but I can't tell if it is a plug issue.

I am fairly certain that you can program the 98 just like the 850s. 99 and above would be different.

You have the right method. I did a remote a month ago, but I didn't remember the LED light, so I just went down to the car to test. It does flash quickly when it is in programming mode. Is this a Volvo remote or a generic one?

On the Volvo: Fixed a front turn signal issue. Looked at the A/C issue and I am guessing wiring. The clutch is not engaging. If I tap on it, it will turn slightly, then stop. That leads me to believe there is no engage signal to it. Swapped out a bad coil. On the Spider: Installed a new billet water union. It has a quick bleed value as well as a place cooling fan switch. The fan comes on well before the stock switch in the bottom of the radiator. The block water temp stays where it should be now instead of going to 220 on the stock switch when the bottom of the radiator finally gets to 180. It doesn't go above 190 now. The problem is the fan power is live all the time, not switched on ignition, so when the fan is running and I turn the engine off, the fan keeps going. Most cars do this as well, but since the switch isn't in the radiator, the fan being on does nothing since the water isn't moving. In this case, it would probably run for 10 minutes or more until the engine cooled down to switch if off. Battery won't like that. I will have to install a relay to cut the power when ignition is off. Fixed the interior light and digital clock. Blown fuse.

Swapped out the cabin filter. The old one was full of hog fuel dust.

The remote itself was bad. I got a new one, it paired and it worked. The old one died in the middle of the day. Batteries were good, I could hear the buttons working, but it wouldn't pair again. I got 2 remotes when I bought the car and the second one worked for a while, but it started just locking the car regardless of the button you pushed. I see the iPd sells the OEM ones now, so I got one. They were hard to find a few years ago.

Replaced a broken rear shock mount. Got my remote locking working again.

Snabb is just one person, but I have never had an issue with him. I have ordered a few items from him in the past.

I want someone to beat Trump too. Then I want to make sure he isn't reelected.

About damn time. 😛

Replace a bad coil.

Order the damn cable.