Zappo

Replaced the coolant reservoir cap. Car has been down for days waiting on one as it was puking out coolant with either one of the two I had in stock. Back on the road. I have missed the A/C.

Painted the rear quarter window trim. It was peeling up showing the bare aluminum. Washed the car as well.

Black and white striped wire, I believe, under the dash. The signal is not 5 cylinder; the ECU converts it to 4 cylinder signal. I pull from there for the tach signal to my logging system. It should be the same for a 98.

No, all of mine are from work. I work at a construction recycling facility and I have to use my car for work, so pick up random nails, screws, etc. In the 20 years prior to this job I have 1 flat that I can remember. I have had 15 in the last 2 years. I do get a tire allowance, but still a pain to deal with all the time.

Another week, another flat. This is why I run crap tires for the summer. Worked on replacing the exhaust on the spider, header back. It fought me trying to remove the old exhaust. Need to get smaller bolts as the stock ones don't fit with the larger pipe now. Nothing is ever truly bolt-on.

Fixed another flat. Washed the car. Fixed the driver side door trim, front and rear.

I have the stock 850R radio with amp. Lately while driving the radio acts like the pause button was pressed causing all audio to stop. It normally comes back after a second or so, but sometimes it is off for over a minute. It isn't a problem with the button as the radio doesn't display PAUSE. I replaced the amp about 7 years ago as the original was damaged when the heater core broke. I haven't had an issue with it until the last month or two. Anyone else have this issue before?

Fixed another flat tire and fixed my front alignment.

Harness was new. Came with the ECU when I bought it.

Anyone else having issues with the COP harness? I have been getting miss-fires in the morning on cold starts. It corrects itself after the engine warms up a little. At first I thought it was a bad coil, but I found if I physically lift the harness the miss-fire goes away. I don't see any physical damage to the wires, but I can't tell if it is a plug issue.

On the Volvo: Fixed a front turn signal issue. Looked at the A/C issue and I am guessing wiring. The clutch is not engaging. If I tap on it, it will turn slightly, then stop. That leads me to believe there is no engage signal to it. Swapped out a bad coil. On the Spider: Installed a new billet water union. It has a quick bleed value as well as a place cooling fan switch. The fan comes on well before the stock switch in the bottom of the radiator. The block water temp stays where it should be now instead of going to 220 on the stock switch when the bottom of the radiator finally gets to 180. It doesn't go above 190 now. The problem is the fan power is live all the time, not switched on ignition, so when the fan is running and I turn the engine off, the fan keeps going. Most cars do this as well, but since the switch isn't in the radiator, the fan being on does nothing since the water isn't moving. In this case, it would probably run for 10 minutes or more until the engine cooled down to switch if off. Battery won't like that. I will have to install a relay to cut the power when ignition is off. Fixed the interior light and digital clock. Blown fuse.

Swapped out the cabin filter. The old one was full of hog fuel dust.

The remote itself was bad. I got a new one, it paired and it worked. The old one died in the middle of the day. Batteries were good, I could hear the buttons working, but it wouldn't pair again. I got 2 remotes when I bought the car and the second one worked for a while, but it started just locking the car regardless of the button you pushed. I see the iPd sells the OEM ones now, so I got one. They were hard to find a few years ago.

Replaced a broken rear shock mount. Got my remote locking working again.

Snabb is just one person, but I have never had an issue with him. I have ordered a few items from him in the past.