Zappo

I started to disassemble one of my spares. At one point I had taken one apart and changed out all the LEDs to change the color, but right now I have no idea how I did any of it. The 4 window switches look exactly the same, so I should just be able to pop a good one out to replace the one bad one, then solder the connections back up. I have unsoldered the ground and power off the 4 switches as this also locks them in place, but I can't seem to get one to pop out. I get one end loose, but it won't come all the way out. I should have 3 switch packs total, including the one in the car, but I can't seem to find my original one. Or, maybe I am working on the original one and don't know it.

It is pretty much the OG people at this point anyway.

Hello, Since it appears you can no longer order these new, even aftermarket, I am looking to see if anyone has a working used one they are willing to sell. Thanks,

Was the trooper wearing Mickey ears? You've seen my dash cam footage proving the shop damaged my car. I wouldn't drive without one now.

I'm hoping the need for the wagon will return in the future.

Update your sig.

That was quick.

When I replaced mine, I didn't know about it either. It was only in the early fall when I started working on the rear brakes and researched it that you have to bench bleed. Mine is definitely at an angle, 2 channels but 2 ports for each channel. However, the rear only uses one port and it is on the low side, not the high side, so there will be an air pocket. After looking at your setup closer, your feed lines are on top, but the brake lines are on the side. I don't think you will have a problem straight bleeding in the car. Mine is has everything coming out the top, and every one I have seen before yours all come out the top. With yours will probably gravity bleed itself.

I replaced my master on the spider years ago and it never fully bled. It was the reason I replaced in the first place because the old one wouldn't fully bleed, but that was more likely because it was original to the car in the early 80s. I don't think a vacuum would work for me unless I could put the whole thing under vacuum before releasing any fluid in. Otherwise I would still have a trapped pocket of air. I am doing a lot of brake work on that car this winter, so I will be removing the master to get it properly bled before installing it with fluid in it to finish bleeding the rest of the system. Yours appears to be flat, so you may not have the same issue, but I figured I would ask.

Do you have to bench bleed that master cylinder, or does it sit flat enough to bleed in the car? The one in my spider sits in the car at an angle, so you can never get all the air out of it in the car. I guess you could if you had the car jacked up on one side to a 30 degree angle, but that isn't all that safe.

We've been here a long time now.

I'm not sure I have all the permission to do it, but I can try. Can you give me the link?

Put some more snow miles on the car. Didn't want to, but internet problems at work forced me to go in and deal with it so everything is working Monday morning. I was sliding the car around at work and the owner showed up. No issues though as no one else was around. Apparently he got his Polaris four seater stuck and just got free. I am sure he was trying to climb some steep incline just playing around.

Well, after driving the CRV in the snow at work, it does better than my car. The AWD does help for sure. It being heavier helps as well.

The vehicles here you see in the ditch are always trucks or SUVs. I now have a work vehicle provided by the company, a Honda CRV. They told me to take it home when it snows and leave my car at work. It is AWD, but the tires aren't good enough. I might drive it around in the snow tomorrow to see how bad it is. I am very against leaving my car at work overnight for any reason.