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About mattwebb502

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    Level 1 Member
  • Birthday 08/13/1979

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    Louisville, KY USA

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  1. Yes hi, sorry I've been away/unavailable. Just PM me and we'll go from there.
  2. Do it! LOL I'm an honest seller, with an honest car.. I'm sure the sales history gives people pause. Owner 1 and 2 are basically one in the same: original owner and his daughter Owner 3, 4, 5 are also the same --- It moved around quickly, shame that adds 3 owners to the history. It went to an independent dealer type (David Tracy) , then it quickly went to a small dealer in Arizona, and then it pretty quickly went to another independent dealer type (Speed shop owner, Mike Mak, also a bit of a Volvo enthusiast [I can dig up the emails if need be, the guy had several "special" Volvos in his fleet]) Yeah it was "salvaged" from owner 1, but the car is straight, tracks straight, etc and I verified with the original owner what was done. None of the typical "wrecked car" crap. I investigated closely, and then bought it as my next "forever" car.. It was exactly that until it went bang. Great car, but I'm just at a point where I need one less car and don't have time to do a motor swap. Great car, everybody, I promise! Come see it in person............ Price dropped to $2750. Make your offers.
  3. Thanks. Not really a project unless you want perfect. The detail and pics of the "bad" are for full disclosure, but really the car is pretty solid in person. It just needs a motor swap; weekend project for my younger self. I'm sad to see it go, but I'm at a point in life where free summer weekends with my kids are more valuable to me than time spent turning wrenches to resurrect cool old cars. I'd love to just settle on a fair price and pass the torch to someone excited and wanting to have their turn at fun with this car. The best deals are where both parties walk away happy. I'm open to offers...
  4. SOLD All reasonable offers considered. Serious inquiries only, please. 1996 855R / 850R Wagon, Red 130,578 miles VIN YV1LW5820T2221468 Modified with turbo, exhaust, intercooler, etc 5 Volans, 1 in the trunk. Located in Goshen, KY just outside of Louisville, KY The Story: Previous owner, Mike Mak of the Bay Area, CA told me the following. I verified everything by making calls and emails: " I actually know quite a lot about the history of the car. Here's what I can tell you. If you would like to see the car please call me at 408/667-0531 1st owner (3/8/96 - 4/27/01) The 1st owner of the 850R is the owner of Volvo Centrum of San Francisco. They are a Volvo repair shop since 1970 and took very good care of the car. All major work was done on the car at Volvo Centrum up till the daughter took the car to Arizona. Here is the Yelp page on them.. 2nd owner (4/27/01 - 5/13/10) The 2nd owner of the 850R is the daughter of the owner of Volvo Centrum of San Francisco. Some time in 2001 she was rear-ended and they decided to buy it back and fix wagon. The owner of Volvo Centrum told me the repair was fairly minor and the repairs were done very well. All major work was done on the car at Volvo Centrum up till the daughter took the car to Arizona. 3rd Owner (5/13/10 - 7/20/11) The 3rd owner was David Tracy. He bought it for his mother and last June I tried to buy the car and even had it checked out by a local shop in AZ and it came back with a good report. Unfortunately, I couldn’t make the arrangements to buy the car and get it shipped from AZ to CA. 4th Owner (7/20/11 - 6/5/12) It looks like the car was traded into Van Chevrolet Arizona in Scottsdale, AZ and eventually sold to a dealer whom I bought it from. 5th Owner (6/5/12-) I currently own the car and have installed new brake rotors, pads and a new front axle. The are a few minor cosmetic issues with the car but there are no major dents in the body. The car is in pretty good physical and in excellent condition. " I had a mechanic go inspect it, the report came back good. Tracks straight, drives well, good overall condition. So, I bought it. 6th Owner, myself, (9/21/12-Present) - purchased with 90k miles on it and had it shipped home. - Because my job requires the use of a company vehicle, the car was rarely driven, so in 6 yrs I've put 30k miles on it. - Around 100k I decided to modify it. During the tuning process I bent a connecting rod, so the motor was torn down for repairs and some extras were dealt with as well. Here's everything I can think of that was done to it. Very fun car to drive. - transmission cooler kit - m4.4 ecu for tunerpro tuning - a bnib Volvo blue box 19t turbo w/7cm angle flange exhaust housing - S60R exhaust manifold - 1993 NA Cams (verified 1993 with the part numbers stamped into the cams) - 3" angle flange stainless steel downpipe, v banded - Eastern 200CPI bullet cat, CJ yother 3" to stock muffler adapter. V band @ downpipe/cat - rebuilt S60R green injectors - do88 intercooler with complete RIP kit and all related silicone - CXRacing H-Beam connecting rods and hardware - new heater core, new oil cooler lines, new turbo coolant hoses, new heater core hoses - all new CV boots, GKN/Lobro - knock sensor harness changed to newer style and new knock sensors installed - at mile 130,578, where it sits now, a combustion event occurred. The bad kind. I had it towed home, tore it down, found a blown head gasket (cylinder 1), and also found the heater core hose had popped off of the back of the head. Everything else checked out fine. I replaced the head gasket, put it all back together, and the car started up and ran like a champ. Pretty quickly I noticed coolant coming from the front of the motor. I pulled the intake and found that the block is cracked at the front, so back on went the intake and plumbing, drove it out of the garage and parked it. This was January 2019 The car will happily move under it's own power, so that's helpful for getting it onto a trailer or in/out of your garage, but it needs a new bottom end or a skilled welder. Everything else is fine. AC works great, heat works, windows and sunroof work, power locks work, power seats, heated seats etc. It all worked perfectly well when I drove it last. The car at the end had become a daily for me, I drove it about 10k miles from 8/18 to 1/19 .. great car. Tracks straight, drives well, transmission shows ZERO signs of trouble Drivers side front tire has a slow leak. Tires are in OK shape, but not a whole lot of life left. They're good for now. Full size Volan spare in the trunk. Rear brakes are brand new. Downpipe flex joint failed 12/18 and I had it replaced with a high quality Vibrant Performance 61006 Interior is in great shape with a few issues as seen in pics -- \ - drivers side leather has typical pilling, but it's not bad. - Dash has a minor crack in it - airbag portion of passenger side dash is lifting at a corner. - Headliner is beginning to sag in a few spots. Exterior is in good shape with a few issues. I'll disclose as much as I can think of: - minor dings and chips here and there; it's a 23 year old car. - chin spoiler area was broken in a spot when I received it; I repaired it with a good deal of thin steel and epoxy (all hidden). It's held up find for 40k miles. See pic. - drivers side front corner of bumper has some cracking and damage. See pic. - passenger side of hood @ grill area is slightly smushed from someone backing into the car. Not bad. See pic. - A-pillar area @ drivers side door got gouged from a passing lawncare trailer. I masked the area off and spray painted to protect it. See pic. - I spoke with one of the previous owners, David Tracy, and he confirmed that the drivers side got scratched so he had -the drivers side only- resprayed at one point. The clear is peeling in areas. Keep it under wax and you can't even see it. See pics. To be perfectly honest, I think they just sprayed clear on top of the factory single stage paint --- the paint that is under the clear is a dead match for the rest of the car. NOTE: Only the driver's side was coated with clear. I have been intentionally blowing the clear off as it peels over time, because the paint cleans, waxes, and matches the rest of the car. If there's some kind of damage underneath the clear, I haven't found it. More pics here: 1996 850R Pics taken 06042019
  5. interesting tool. I like it. I have heard of distorted and or broken (in the case of cast, I guess) cams when not supported (torqued evenly in stages) on all bearing journals. Old timer VW mechanics warned not to zip the cam bearings off and on on the watercooled sohc engines but to instead do them in stages, because they had broken cams before. I wonder if that tool is meant to go in the dead center of the cam on cyl 3 to distribute the load better, or do they specify to install it at each set of lobes that are being measured?
  6. I'm curious. Did the noise only occur during combustion or also during cranking w/out fuel or spark? ...probably didn't think to go so far as to test that? You have an odd problem. I'm stumped. and you're SURE that it's not VVT hubs? I don't know what they sound like, so forgive me if I'm off base here, but a long time ago on a completely different platform we had an awful clank clank clank noise happen out of nowhere and we were convinced that the bottom end was done. It turned out to be a loose adjustable cam gear that was slapping back and forth with cam/valve operation. ....we didn't catch that until after we decided to part out the car. haha
  7. Now you're onto it! There's nothing like measurement to help know where you stand. re: bottom end With the cams out and plugs out, did you rotate by hand to feel for any resistance? With the pan off it wouldn't hurt to take a look at the rod bearings. Probably not necessary, and probably too late at this point anyways. Keep us posted!
  8. Is this is a solid lifter head? Did you mix up lifters? Once the oil heats and thins, excess clearance valve noise can get louder on any of the solid lifter arrangements I've worked with... but it's usually noticeable right away. No exp. with the white blocks. EDIT: I think it's unlikely that your noise is foreign material induced. I would think that if a keeper got into the valve springs you'd have severe coil bind that would have much more significant and obvious consequences ---- with little warning instead of prolonged noise but otherwise normal running. Also, if there was foreign material in one of the lifter bores in/under the springs (and assuming you stopped the engine while the noise was still present) you should be able to locate the foreign object pretty quickly... it wouldn't just run and hide after shutting it down. I think you are probably chasing your tail looking for foreign objects.
  9. Yup, you need to put together an accurate count on your keepers.... and put the bourbon down the next time so you can't get confused about whether you lost a keeper or not. :) lol how about blowing some compressed air all around the head passages to clear it of any hidden keepers / foreign objects? How do all of the cam lobes, lifters, and bores look? Nothing obvious, I presume? Good luck and keep us posted!
  10. I'm a little confused --- did you start with a known amount of keepers? I would think that simple observation of what you started with vs what you ended up with would give the result, but clearly there must be more to the story that I missed. Can't failing sump o-rings give intermittent top end noise? Did any of the lifter bores get galled in the process of replacing the stem seals? VVT hub issues? Make sure one of your mystery keepers isn't lodged in the sump pickup..
  11. :( Damned Fiats. Love/hate, eh? I haven't even pulled mine out of storage this year.....
  12. Can you refit the distributor, get your fuelling issues sorted, then move back to the coil packs?
  13. Soubds like light at the end of the tunnel to me! Possible that 1 and 3 got mixed up with something else in the harness? Doubtful. Or something is funky with the connector(s) you added? I know you said the leads passed a simple resistance test, but as you know under in-circuit load can yield very different results. Scope would be useful here. Aside from fuel fouled plugs, bore wash and loss of compression in 1 and 3? Sounds like you need to use that external harness and dry out 1 and 3. Add a cc or so of oil to each and crank with fuel/spark (ecu) fuse removed ... then get that oh yeah! running! Good luck.