NB-V70R

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NB-V70R last won the day on February 8 2018

NB-V70R had the most liked content!

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About NB-V70R

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    Level 1 Member
  • Birthday 12/28/1996

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • Location
    Charlotte, NC
  • Crew
    ECC

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  1. Trying to prevent the archive . I'm deep into my last year of engineering school and I'm looking forward to graduation in May so I can get back to all my plans on this car. I haven not been able to track down the running issue. I was able to minimize the problematic behavior with a bit of tuning, but it still gets me everywhere I need to go reliably so it isn't top priority. It doesn't help that I keep spending money on computer upgrades, the racecar, and my new Motorcycle (2013 Honda CB500F) lol.
  2. Thanks for the response, I'm using a 3.5in OD MAF housing (which I think measured 3.25" ID) with my stock sensor of course. I started with 1.94 as my multiplier in that tool you linked, but I remember the car running rich mostly, but swinging to lean with the fuel trims occasionally. This was all before I bent those rods a couple months ago and I wasn't datalogging at the time. Since then, I've tried multiplying that (x1.94) table by 0.9 (which seemed too lean), 0.95, and 0.96 which I have been running on for a couple of weeks. My idle fuel trims are not any more than they were before the upgrade. AFR at WOT was 11.7 or so before the upgrade and now dips into the high 9s. My bin is pretty far from stock though with modified injectors, load axes rescaled and so on. If those other things were done incorrectly I could see that flaring up and causing a problem. The more I write about it, it kind of sounds like I have a boost leak. I'm gonna go check my charge piping after this. I don't remember removing or keeping them lol.... I'll have to pop out the sensor to double check. OK nvm it is 95 deg out so I'll check it later
  3. Kinda neglected the updates on the thread because of finals and work and yadda yadda. I've fixed the oil leak. It was a torn O-ring on the return tube - no biggie. Car is throwing a CEL for the BCS. I had this before and installed an inline filter to solve the problem last time, but honestly I have just lost faith in the ARD solenoid and I'll be investing in a Pierburg when my bank accounts recover. Also still have to play around with the MAF constant. Has anyone who performed a significant MAF upgrade have to change any other parameters besides the MAF map to achieve prior drivability? The more I play around with the MAF scaling, the more it seems like other things need to be modified as well such as acceleration enrichment and so on. Thanks for any insight!
  4. Car has actually been running and driving for a few weeks. I was fighting a dying battery and the car has been pissing oil, especially under boost. Been keeping it from running low maybe once a week as it goes down. New rod bearings are staying nice and lubricated with fresh oil anyway haha. I was able to trace down the drain tube O-ring as the suspected culprit with a cell phone camera. I'm tackling that this weekend finally because work has been pretty hectic as of late (NASCAR in peak season woohoo). i'm also going to drill out the PCV "valve" as I neglected to do that initially when I installed the new intake tubing. My theory is that the larger diameter at the same general airflow has a lower velocity past that hole and it is failing to extract/relieve the crankcase pressure as effectively as stock. I also spent some time refining the MAF constant to get the drivability to be a tad better and to reduce the LTFTs. I'm within a couple percent either way now.
  5. Yeah most things were still attached. The side skirts, mud guards, and trim around the trunk windows were removed and painted separately.
  6. Either read all 460 pages of this thread or head over to http://m44.wikia.com/wiki/M44_Wiki I recommend the second. Many people have put in a lot of work to make that a great resource. Once you get a bit of basic knowledge, you can ask specific questions that haven't been answered previously. Thanks!
  7. In more recent history, I spent a lot of time and money since then on computer parts and building a couple gaming PCs. Also, I have been battling around school work and my crazy new internship with a race team (top tier NASCAR team, pretty damn cool) to find free time. Most of which is now consumed by my other project car, a 1978 Volvo 242 that my friends and I are swapping in a truly idiotic 1.6L engine from a 1992 Mazda Miata. Shameless plug for our YouTube series on that car: Amateur Hour Racing on YT ( https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCV2_Q4fzZ55A243hlKeVJlQ ). When I finally got some time to mess around one weekend, I installed a Snabb Intake Kit that I had sitting around. Tristan was kind enough to send me a slightly customized version to fit my new 3.5 inch MAF housing. I had noticed in my data logs that I was regularly hitting 4.9v on the stock housing and intake. So of course, I installed it and reflashed the ECU with my most recent tune. I had forgotten about (aka didn't check my notes that I always take) all of the things I had changed since my last flash. I think I had messed with a few limiters on the boost pressure (Maximum boost pressure reduction -- really should have changed that before setting my TCV and Load maps, and Vehicle Speed Threshold for boost reduction on gearbox signal -- same with this param). Long story short, I gave it too much juice and the boost shot way the f*** up faster than I could get out of the throttle. The car bucked hard and then *tick, tick, tick, tick, tick, tick*. Ouch. I am still kicking myself for how stupid I was being that day. So many lapses in judgement. This was the carnage that I removed 2 weekends later: These two rods are far too wiggly for my taste. Luckily, a friend from work lent me some garage space as long as I need it to tear apart the entire engine. My amazing roommates are also letting me borrow their cars until I get mine rebuilt. I have H-Beam Rods coming with a set of Glyco sputter bearings, Hastings rings, plus all the goodies to replace everything that has been in their relative locations for up to twenty years. I am going to hit the Pull a Part (if it'll stop raining on all my free days) and see if I can grab some N/A cams and an R manifold (It looks easier to remove in car. Am I crazy?) or Japanifold (if I'm lucky). It is a real shame I'm not upgrading the turbo while I have it off, but I have made a personal commitment to manual swapping before that. That's pretty much everything up to date. Thanks for sticking with me through that mind dump! I'll try to grab more pics and things as parts arrive and I get it going again. P.S. Yes, I'm going to be much more careful when I finally get running again. It seems like I'm going to have to rebuild my turbo control maps from scratch again. Anyone interested in a video series on anything I'm doing?
  8. OK time for a big update! I have still been slowly toiling away on this car, but I haven't really been active on here for quite a while. Some recent developments with the car (more on that later) have finally brought me back to share all sorts of fun with y'all. So here we go! Commence project catch up with Nick. So we pretty much left off around JULY 2016 with the new wheels, tires and fuel line repairs (holding up well so far). I rebuilt the dashboard with fiberglass reinforcement. Overall, this was a huge, huge improvement to the day to day pleasantness of the car. It is still holding up well as of Feb 2018, but some of the cracks that were repaired with plast-aid (stuff's a miracle) in the trim piece right under the windshield are returning. I was also thoroughly revising the tune on the car throughout most of 2016. Eventually (35ish revisions later), I had settled around 17 psi and mid 11's for WOT AFR. I rarely had some mild knock usually on hot days in the summer or cold days in winter when most of my tuning was around fall and spring time. I know if I spent more time or actually utilized ambient temp offsets I could get rid of it. MAY 2017 - Full Color Change My father and I embarked on a mission to revive the faded exterior of the "Black Mamba" as he called it. We spent about 6 weeks from the first tear down to driving it out of the garage paint booth. I ended up going to a single stage grey metallic color from a VW. This stuff is loaded with metal flake making it absolutely ridiculous for a couple of amateur painters to get right. We had only done one other paint job at this point, my brothers truck: an '02 Tacoma that we rebuilt for his sixteenth birthday. I think it turned out pretty well though considering our lack of experience and short time frame. Here are some progress pics: Final Product: I had never been more proud of owning this car than after this paint job. The way the colors worked (plus painted mud guards, ugh) was awesome. Makes all the time and money totally worth it. It was redubbed "gray ghost" by my dad and damn it was hot (read thicccccc). Then, literally a month after the car was finished (and 4 days before I had to leave for NC to be back at school), a "medium sized" (maybe 3-4" diameter) branch fell and smashed the windshield and leafed (left? get it? :D ) a decent dent in the roof. Crushing (wow I'm so punny). I ended up tracking down just 1 shop locally that had a windshield in stock and a free slot for an appointment (Whew., Whew., Close one!, Chat disabled.), but the dent is still there to this day.
  9. Got it. I noticed people were just donating to last year's campaign. I had problems when donating to the 2017 one. My dad and I will be there again this year. Looking forward to another great show!
  10. Sad to see it go, but excited for the future! On to bigger and better things.....
  11. I went to donate and the GoFundMe is saying that there is an error with the campaign and that I should contact the admin for it. So... if someone can sort it out, I'd love to give some of my monies. Thanks!
  12. Might be worth reading the Wiki page: m44.wikia.com A good amount of the basic info from the forum is on there and should be easier to read. 607 vs 608 is manual vs automatic .bins
  13. Those wheels look amazing. Aggressive and classy, Love it!
  14. Oh this is sweet! I have been curious about using the stock R Sport, Eco, and Winter switch that is part of the trans system to do this even after a manual swap. That would be cool.
  15. OK well that sucks. We used some decent quality, but def not Volvo line so I am not going to rip it out now.I will definitely keep an eye on it. The job to replace it wouldn't be too bad now really, might even get away without having to lower the tank. The next solution will have to be better. Thanks for the heads up. Finally fixed my e brake yesterday. Only issue was some incorrect retainers on one side. Replaced those and readjusted, works like a charm.