Blockpartie

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About Blockpartie

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  1. Volvo lists 'Calcite' as the recommended floor mat colour: P/N #39806214 for vehicles with interior colour code 5E74, 5X84 The other available colours are: P/N #39806210 'Cacao Brown' P/N # 39813715 'Offblack' P/N # 39806212 'Quartz'
  2. Interior colour: 5884 -> Seats: Calcite Cream | Dash/Door upper: Off Black/Umbra Brown | Door lower, rest of trim: Quartz Beige
  3. P/N #982825 for the bolt. ^ is correct, it's M10 x 1.5 and 70mm long, flanged.
  4. Brake kit should be this one: (click through) Quite rare and hard to get parts for. Brake pads in the picture are not the OE stuff but that hardly matters.
  5. Did this happen while you were operating the door or was the glass already broken? There is a bit of an issue with headlight theft with the S80/V70/XC70 (and also the S/V60 & XC60). Window gets smashed, bonnet gets released and 30sec later the car has no headlights. Broadly speaking the pattern and location indicate some sort of impact near the middle of the window. Because of how the glass is attached to the scissor mechanism - by two rubber lined clamps that get tightened onto the glass - a failure caused by overtightening would cause cracks to appear from below the window belt line. As far as replacement windows go you have three options. Any front S80/V70/XC70 window from any of the model years will fit. 1) Standard window glass 2) Standard window glass with rain repellent coating 3) Laminated window glass with rain repellent coating
  6. Most likely it would negatively contribute to downforce. The position of the roofbox is mostly between the axles but more towards / over the rear axle. Assuming an average human density of 985kg/m³, an estimated volume of 16 cubic ft. (0,45m³) for the roofbox and allowing for at minimum a 1/3 loss of volume due to parts of human not coming in convenient shapes this means approx. 310,275kg of weight is added to the vehicle. Plus another 15 to 20kg (33lbs-44lbs) for the roofbox itself. This is far to much and completely over the ~75kg (165lbs) limit as per the owner's manual for the pictured car. Basically the rear suspension would stance itself, thus raising the front of the car. Not to mention the handling would be completely ruined.
  7. The new Volvo engines - done first by Geely. Uh oh. B3154T = JLH-3G15TD = TX5 range extender And that KC2 looks a lot like SPA...
  8. f-you bucket says (direct quote): "We have listened to you, and significantly lowered the price of the Photobucket plan offerings. For a limited time all of your 3rd Party Hosted Images have been restored." What a surprise that their new business direction didn't turn out as well as they had hoped.
  9. Have you tried turning it off and on again?
  10. The rear seat back catch was not covered in plastic when new. To be absolutely clear I am talking about the metal part attached to the body of the car. There will be a rubber 'cover' slipped onto the catch that sits between the base of the catch and the plastic cover panel, presumably to prevent direct contact (e.g. noise) and also act as a spacer. The rear seat back latch isn't covered in plastic either BUT there is a small rubber / rubbery type ...thing in the latch that is used as an endstop. Presumably it also prevents rattles because it prohibits front to back movement when the latch is engaged. To be absolutely clear I am talking about the latching part attached to the seat back itself. Over time and through environmental conditions this thing gets compressed, becomes crumbly and fails. When new the colour is a dark orange. Part itself is only available together with a new latch so use a suitable replacement. Another reason for rattles can be a failed centre pivot bushing. Both sides of the rear seat share a common pivot point. The 2/3 or passenger side (if LHD) rear seat back has a metal spike going through the pivot point where it's supposed to be 'resting' on a plastic bushing. No bushing -> noise.
  11. It's turning black at the edges, you should do something about that.
  12. Aww... that sucks. Is the puddle under the car the result of two drips or did you determine it has to be leaking on both sides due to the size of the puddle? I too suffered a leak and noticed it only when I came back to a small puddle. A closer look revealed the issue to be with the feed line connection near the fuel filter. I had some trouble pinpointing the leak as the fuel had been blown all over the rear axle and exhaust during driving. Reseated it and it was fine. Ofcourse a short while later the actual metal line failed... Point is: Maybe the connector wasn't seated 100% and loosed from the fuel pressure.
  13. Congratulations on completing the project. It's great that you took the time to take pictures and generally share this experience with us. Best of luck with the car. May it bring joy to you for many years to come. About the ABS: Could be as simple as the big connector not making contact. Either because it's not locked in right, a terminal got damaged (bent / corrosion) or a broken wire. Damage to the pump wiring due to corrosion/aging of the insulation is also a possibility.
  14. Drift cars tend to have a different set of issues compared to a street car. Like staying in one piece for an extended period of time... I do not doubt your abilities or experience. I question if it is wise to do all this work and than go "meh" on the last leg of the journey. This has nothing to do with overtightening clamps or cable ties. The standard clamps will dig into rubber hoses. The cable ties will rub through what they hold together. Wether this because a problem sooner or later is up for debate. A little wiggle room / slack is a good idea, as is additional protection from (obvious) potential issues. Did you find a new fuel filler hose? In late 2014 / early 2015 I was told the part was no longer available.
  15. @tuner4life: All first generation C70 models (coupé and convertible) have 4 bolt control arms, as do all P80 AWD models (850, S70, V70) and all P80 cars equipped with a diesel engine (850, S70, V70). In those cases the model year does not matter. What kind of clamps are you using? It almost looks like the normal style with the punched through holes. I'd recommend changing these to smooth-type ones. A lot of the original hose clamps were supplied by ABA and are of the smooth, e.g. no punched through holes, type. They are more expensive but reduce stress in the contact area. They make a few different variants, with rolled over edge, stainless etc. but the original variant with blue top is more or less what was factory. Be careful as to not get fakes as those for some reason do exist. I'd also recommend rethinking the use of cable ties. Unless you used special ones with rounded edges and a smooth inside they will damage whatever they hold together over time. Vibrations, and as this is a car that's 100% guaranteed, will allow the cable tie to rub and slightly move around. As the cable tie is often made form a harder material, the longer this goes on the more the underlying material gets roughed up. At some point failure happens. Your pictures show slight bending of the fuel filler neck hose so that will be a likely failure point. Btw: That hose is no longer available...