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apeacock last won the day on August 27

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About apeacock

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  1. Did that same mount recently as well. Should have done it to start 4 years ago with the manual swap. Downshifts are much much smoother.
  2. insert gif of someone saying "totally tubular!" while also flashing the hang-loose sign.
  3. There's some kinda wolf standing in the driveway there. Headlight came out nice though. Best one i've used is from sylvania, still only lasted a few months before developing a less clear yellow tint.
  4. So Will (scottishbrick) did some loose measurements last week and the ports out into the collector are 34% bigger and the outside collector dimension is 27% larger in the X dimension. The thinking is also the Japanifold is 2-2-1 design, the R manifold is 3-1-1. The biggest leap on the whole discussion was the R manifold being a cost saving measure as the JP is 14lbs 4 ounces. the R is 12lbs 14 ounces. Idk time will tell if it's worth anything more then sound!
  5. Was all I could get for the time being! New Japanifold setup is in the works. Hoping to return some 5 cylinder sound to the car and maybe even gain some flow.
  6. In case you want to see a set of paced laps around Watkins Glen - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNs6VMQZCV8&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=LetsDoThis
  7. Understandable, mask on while talking to people on the show feild. People were ok for the most apart aside from when there was the drift limbo event, we walked up the hill saw 400 people standing shoulder to shoulder and then left. Very iffy about coming down for that. Expecting to be a dad right about that time.
  8. Wagon looking good down at Carlisle
  9. That would take some serious time too accomplish! I would do this with junkyard cars that had decent looking ABA clamps.
  10. I also hope to not see that work again!!! and yes it's horribly messy. There are two types I used on the car and they both work well. For this stuff I used the TESA tape https://www.ebay.com/itm/TESA-51628-ADHESIVE-PET-FLEECE-WIRE-HARNESS-TAPE-3-4-X-25M-CLOTH-FRICTION-FS/232987963975?epid=10026590887&hash=item363f2a3247:g:s7gAAOSwgjFZuBZ3 show in there. There's also a super excellent tape (how great can it be right?) That's Coroplast Automotive tape. its part number is 837x (https://www.ebay.com/itm/181949537255?ul_noapp=true) and it's the stuff. You can't tear it and it's bond is really impressive.
  11. Must have looked at that post from (Oreo) 4-5 times over the past few years. Finally decided it was the time do it. If you want to make it that much easier you might consider removing the front seats as well.
  12. This was a two person extraction for sure. Plastic epoxy to get the position correct on the mounts Holding all the bits in place Fiberglass goo and the fabric they provide in the little kit. Cleaned up the front and made sure the bottom (top in the picture) is level as that rests on the dash shelf. Covered the parts that might make contact with the car in the TESA (ford recall) tape to give it the buffer that was previously there. One short drive on the new dash and it seems to be working well. Next is to build a little extension for the shifter tray piece so it has some more rigidity again. Basically where the blue tape is. I have some ABS bar stock I'm planning to cut and shape and tie that into the edge. https://imgur.com/1iudvgM.jpg[/img]
  13. Dash mount repair time. Both passenger side mounts where done for.