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Everything posted by apeacock

  1. rats, linking from google photos is probably not a great move then.
  2. This method worked well for me. Mine didn't crack until I did the m66 swap and removed the center support of the dash (imagine that) Worth the time to be able to hear the other potential squeaks now!
  3. I agree it's a pain to say the least. Time or money right? Do I toil away at this? Or pay someone else to do it!?
  4. How is the JRZ riding for you?
  5. Drain and fill from the output line on the transmission is nice in that it pumps it out for you. sadly filling is LAME and tedious. Do really keep track of fluid in / out. Exchanged the stuff on my newer xc70 and it wouldn't move in the cold cold until it got warm. That darn fluid level.... If it wasn't the kitchen scale - next time I would consider weighing all the fluid I took out and making sure I added that much (at least) going back in.
  6. Fine time at Carlisle this year. Here it is not having the bumper and rear tires removed to be trailered home Also - Further wire clean up and re wrap with the DEI sleeve kit. I've found that the yellow p2 circular mount works well to balance NVH and style points for the top mount.
  7. Some minor bits updates. Trying to stop the exhaust flex noise, made an attempt with stiffer upper engine mounts (torque rod mounts I know) still present though. Sends some more NVH into the cabin but perhaps worth running for a little bit. I changed the bulkhead one to a 2000 style larger mount after buying the larger Powerflex version without knowing it. Also went with the black race front mount purely because it's black and not purple which would have been a bit strange. Maybe Ill get over that though sad😁 https://photos.app.goo.gl/VDg8XhBv3nCJphfk9 I also went back to the OEM CBV for the EFR turbo. Wanted to see if that would change the impact of building boost. Not really any noticeable changes. Everything feels more powerful jumping from the p2 cars back into this. Next improvement will be maybe making more of the intake out of metal so i can regain some intake noise. Right now a lot of it is dampened I think by the silicone couplers. They also don't fit just as perfect as you might want so the airbox can rattle at the right engine speed. After that would be re covering the visible engine harness wires in some better sleeves. Currently they are covered in coroplast tape, great stuff but something else would be more attractive. Thinking of de pinning the coil leads and doing it that way versus slip over stuff. Could be fun Still can't remember how to properly insert the photos either. Did some nice wrinkle coat on the mounts and engine lift point as well. Came out nice! The silver spray paint was starting to show it's age.
  8. lol the moment I skipped to he jumps into the other car. NICE
  9. RATS! So my neighbors never seem to pickup their dog poop, and I know it's not a 100% cause for them being around. But in the garage, in what I presumed to be a relatively safe space, RATS. I saw one of these marks years ago thinking, ok something hit the car, after a wash yesterday 5 seperate marks with I would say 2 different bite sizes on the hood. Next 1-2 years I think the whole car might get sprayed again, if not that then the front clip and roof for sure. Looks like a cover is in order for when it's inside.
  10. Fuggin a bro. At first i'm like, did the new welds break??
  11. Pro tip for a loved xc70. Get some s60 sport seats. What a difference to everyday use!
  12. lesson learned. TO get further engagement from the Ohlins raise the rear springs, don't lower them. Tried 25mm from the sub frame, then 15, bounciest ride of my life. People drove around me on the road. Brought it up to where the 8" springs touch the perches, then down again 10mm and it's great. 32mm or there about from the sub frame, it's got a rake again, and it's a bit tall, however it rides great right now.
  13. Hmm I was more asking, do they make an increase in noise (metal on metal fitment) or are they contributing to any other NVH. But maybe this answers that.
  14. All for the better parts, I enjoy the moog sway bar links as they have a wrench hold and I never trust the torx on a salt drive car. Any experience with noise or harshness from the strut bearings? Consider a set as I need to sent away my Ohlins for a leak.
  15. Just hoping that these ones do the trick! would like to not buy literally a 5th set of springs. At highway speed is was mint. Like I said 25mm right now going to bring it down to 16 next and see how that goes.
  16. First drive - Low speed driving was pretty bouncy sort of like it was previously. The back end just needs to be lowered down a bit so that the shock is not so extended to start with. Highway speed was really great and seemed to do the job the way you'd want. Car still handles so so nicely, the tires are the real star sometimes I think. Vehicle has the rake again which is nice but that may need to go away. Side note, brake refresh went so well, no noises yet and the e brake works better then ever, holds the car on an incline which is nice.
  17. These are Blue Coil. I got them from Ben Kapelhenke, I guess they were special order as they are not listed as a part number they normally sell. So idk why it seems to need such a high amount on the back end. I REALLY should have taken better measurements or sent the Ohlins / Volvo springs to be tested for what spring rate they really were. I'm not sure if they are right or wrong either. I know what with a loaded up rear and bikes / the box on the top with more stuff they were bottoming out over large bumps at highway speed. So to combat this I had to put the adjustment on the shocks all the way up which then made it just extra stiff. First run out was too little movement (New springs + 8/8 on the Ohlins) New setup is being tested I guess tomorrow with a drive. Maybe the BC kit the shock part deals with more of the weight? I'd love to know believe me this is spring pair number four at this point. ENOUGH lol.
  18. Didn't hit save on there, should be good now.
  19. Finally have wo bumps tops in the back of the wagon now. Used the part numbers from Matt's 850 swap. Team it with a 40mm m10 hex cap and a 5/16 washer from Home depot. Should be set with some blue thread locker in there. Did the rear brakes as well. Seeing how crusty the back of the disc was I figured it was time. That and I bought the pads for these March 21st 2015, and the discs were used from Husseins xc70r build. E brake hardware in the kit from TRW seemed incorrect? I reused the old stuff, you can see how they are too short in every way. New 700lb blue coil springs in the back of the car as well. 600s still bottomed out unless the shocks were set to 8/8. I left the perches at the same height 25cm from the subframe on the car. We will see how much it settles down. Otherwise a small height reduction might be needed. Held the phone at the end of my arms reach and did a front / rear comparison.
  20. oo gotcha, I think I had talked to him about the right weight for the ones in the back. I wish I had a way to test what the official Ohlins ones were rated at when I had the set in my hands.
  21. I wonder where he got that recommendation 😅 yeah 450s were too soft. 600 is also the 'heaviest' they seem to make in an 8x3
  22. Have not bought the bump stops yet to replace my 50% complete rear bump stops, glad to see you found a different solution for this. With the wagon ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD and even 600lb springs I find a pretty loaded car hits the bump stops with the Ohlins on a pretty stiff setting. I see you're what not 12/18 for the qa1s? So stiff as well.
  23. Reminds me my grilles need a fresh coat of plasti dip this spring. Looking a little shabby.
  24. I have indeed made a few trips out there. Not many other specialty places like those out here (that I'm aware of) let alone ones that really as versed in the Volvo ways.