Midnight Caller

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Everything posted by Midnight Caller

  1. There is another 2D map with boost reduction by gear which has to be set to 1 all across. It's in the XDF, just can't remember now the exact name. Later Edit - Set to "1" all values in the "Boost pressure reduction factor, manual transmission" map (FLDABMTN) and you should unleash full boost since 1st gear. Enjoy
  2. Maybe your BIN is calibrated wrong from the get go ? All the input values from the WB sensor should have a "translation map" in the ECU, meaning X volts should correspond to Y AFR. If that is wrong, all further calculations are wrong. In my case (AEM WB) I tied it to the rear O2 sensor which gave me an offset of 0.7V (because that's how ECU is built, GND is offseted by 0.7V on that ground pin of the O2 sensors)
  3. My experience was with the only T5R BIN from the Motronic Suite. I can't recall right now the suffix but I know that the car didn't start and there were no errors in the ECU.
  4. I used Motronic suite in the end for flashing, there was an issue with an 850R bin (also taken from motronic suite) that caused a no-start condition on the car. I re-flashed an 850 T5 bin and everything was ok. Reading the software from the ECU with motronic suite apparently failed somewhere because even if the software appeared "legit" to WinOLS and Motronic suite, the maps were somehow f***d up (rpm limiter was set to 1.024.000 or smth).
  5. Yeah, I totally recommend Aaron. He's doing a great job, aaaaand most important, answering all my e-mails
  6. Hello It was, once, but it didn't last for too long, either because lack of interest, or by financial interests Let us know if you need anything specifically, maybe we can help.
  7. My apologies too, but now I'm really confused Moving from HFM2 to HFM5 and changing the ADC channel still should require zero-ing values up to 1V, doesn't it ?
  8. I think the offset you see might be from the reverse flow detection of the HFM-5 type MAF maybe ? I recall there was an offset there, and 0V actually meant reverse flow through the MAF (from turbo to filter) and 0.5V or more actually meant "zero flow"
  9. As far as I see there should be no offset in the MAF channel. as ADC voltage starts from 0V in the MAF lookup table, and as far as VIDA says (at least not on the grounding side, as it is with the HO2S): #A3 Power ground mass air flow (MAF) sensor Ulow #A4 Signal mass air flow (MAF) sensor (measured to terminal #A5) U = 0.1 - 0.2 V U ≈ 0.9 V U increases with increasing air mass #A5 Signal ground mass air flow (MAF) sensor Ulow #A6 Signal ground engine speed (RPM) sensor Ulow
  10. That's cool ! How did you repurpose the input channel in the BIN (use acc sensor instead of original ADC channel ? )
  11. Yup, I think know who you're talking about.... Hoping we'll have a refresh of bright minds over here, we really need them
  12. I'm thinking the off-centre position of the sensor would lead to measuring less air than reality, especially at low air speeds, thus the need for such a large factor. But in my case, if I use 1.94 indeed the idle would be ok (around 16kg/h) but after 2000rpm the STFT goes waaay under -25% to compensate for the error in over-measured air. That's something @Tightmopedman9 also confirmed and I want to really thank him for the heads up he gave me. So I rather used the 1.7 ratio and only adjust for the smaller number of values, problematic, low-flow area. I thought it would be good to present this information here, maybe another OCD'st like me ( ) would like his sensor dead center and measure things more precise. I've been lucky I guess and sort things up from just the second iteration by checking MAF flow vs STFT values and modifying as such. Yes, the VE Map was the first thing that came up to my mind, but that would be a RPM/Load map and more calculations were necessary. Taking into account that I will also have to upgrade to 650cc injectors, that way would've only screwed up more things
  13. Just to give you an answer, I don't think anyone here wants their catalytic converter to melt or damage to exhaust valves, per se.... As a side note, I think I've managed to tame the BMW 540i MAF. I used the x1.7 factor (not the 1.94 as stated in the Wiki, as that factor would take me to new heights in dumping fuel on the exhaust pipe :D) So, in particular for my setup, where I tried to center the sensor in the MAF housing as good as I could, x1.7 factor (new MAF area / old MAF area) required increasing the values in the MAF lookup table with a range from 20% to about 3% in the 0.5-1.2V cells. That leads to an STFT of +/- 3% at idle and up to +/- 10-12% under light loads. I am happy with the values, as the measuring range error for a certain voltage is around 10% For example, for 1.4844V you are measuring between 94.25KG/h and 103.38KG/h, and for 1.9531V = from 175.38KG/h to 186.38KG/h... Gotta get myself a partner in crime to see what happens on higher loads.
  14. Investigated some more and if indeed MAF flow table is split in two high-bit / low-bit tables, then, for stock MAF, locations are 19h and D6h (19D6 is 6614 dec). Multiplied by 0.125 is indeed 826.75kg/h But that doesn't really mean (I think) that this is what the MAF can really measure, but just a calculated conversion table. Still can't make the connection to the VOLVO specs (408kg/h) and the BOSCH datasheet which mentions 480kg/h Also, VOL-FCR reads max 408kg/h, and same issue is mentioned by another guy on a V90 with 3L N/A engine (also M4.4) https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-260-760-960-28/maf-reading-full-throttle-v90-3-0-a-106366/ Could it be diag tool not reading data correctly ?
  15. Hello guys, Preparing myself to upgrade to the 3.25" ID BMW 540i V8 MAF housing and been reading almost all related posts since... In the wikia we have a factor of 1.94 for scaling (due to max flow 3.25" divided by max flow stock). If we rely on the surface proportion formula, it would be around 1.69 (5352.1 mm^2 / 3166.921mm^2) Anyone found a "magic number" for this scaling ? For the stock vs S90 the numbers are closer (1.34 in the wikia - flow division vs 1.21 - surface division). I've cut the "neck" on the BMW MAF, removed around 1cm (around 0.4in) and re-glued the top over, and now the sensor is almost dead center. Anyone did the same modification and still goes by 1.94 factor ? Thank you ! Also, if we use the calculations on the s4wiki : https://s4wiki.com/wiki/Mass_air_flow (category "Effect on airflow") then we would get a "real" reading of just +69% over the stock MAF. That meaning 826kg/h (@5V) becomes at most 1396kg/h, pretty far from the 1602kg/h in the wiki. Or I'm making bulls**t calculations here ? Later edit From the VOLVO bluebook it seems that MAF measurement should be up to 408kg/h : which seems consistent with the Bosch HFM2 datasheet: Also, if we multiply 255 with the 1.6 scaling factor in the M4.4 RAM scaling we also get 408 Still couldn't understand where the 826kg/h was taken from...
  16. Yes, Kline is pin 5 on 4.3 and bootpin is 8. Just wondered if anyone used Motronic Flasher for 4.3 too.
  17. Quick question please. I know it's out of scope for the thread, but can the Motronic flasher be also used for the 4.3 ? I am trying to help a friend, wrote an 850R (64K) bin on his spare 2.0T5 ECU but the car won't start. Wrote it with Motronic Suite, connected to it afterwars (on the bench, got DTC for ECT "standard error" because nothing connected to it) It's true I didn't check the ECU in the car before writing the new bin but just asking if it could have been a flashing issue (used +15V for power and boot pin) Thank you !
  18. Thanks, man ! I'll just rescale to 12.24 and hope I won't get over that limit. Have a wonderful day !
  19. Hello guys, Short question for the +400HP dudes From your experience, does 12.24ms load (on 650cc injectors, so a lower injector constant) + 540i BMW MAF (so also lower values there in the MAF map) would suffice for a GT3076 and a target of around 400HP ? Now still on a 16T and greens, and 9ms load gives me around 270HP... Do I definetely need the 24.48ms mod ? Thanks a bunch !
  20. Did you by any chance mess with the knock sensors ? Are they clocked right as in VIDA/VADIS ? Are they tightened to spec ? Maybe one came loose and gives false positives ?
  21. Hello ! As I've read all over this topic, pin A19 is definitely not recommended for the WB connection. I've completely disconnected mine from the PCB. My AEM UEGO WB has only one ground and I've connected it to the battery minus lead directly. @venderbroeckand @Piet's mods are not public, who has them bought them. I for one bought the WB mod and the Boost threshold mod but still having issues with them. I think I'll ditch them and go for Aaron's ( @Tightmopedman9) solution, as none of them are replying my messages... Didn't really catch your last phrase ( "the cars rear or my external wb ") Later edit : From what I've saw on the PCB, the power ground plane is on the back of the ECU and signal ground plane is on the upper side. They are tied toghether with through-holes, so from my measurements power GND and signal GND are connected to each other. It's clear that I don't recommend connecting anything that draws a high current on a signal GND pin, but for what's worth, connecting something like a boost pressure sensor ground can be done on any ground pin that is closer / easier to solder on. Please correct me if I'm wrong (I've designed PCB's for ON Semiconductor for 8 years, but I still might miss something )
  22. For what I can say, I also have the european model with IMMO3 and had no issues with flashing apart from some 10-20% write fails. I just stop the flashing process, restart it and it succeeds. Maybe worth cleaning your ground points on the chassis too (measure the voltage drop between the battery minus lead and the ECU GND - it should be less than 100mV with ECU operational)
  23. OUT - is connected to the ground plane anyway as far as I remember (connected to IN -) so it shouldn't matter. Anyway, seeing it work perfectly on the bench every time but not working in car baffles me
  24. I don't know what to say here but.... I always disconnect the fan when flashing (I disconnect the black wire connector that goes on top of the fan shroud). When flashing, the lambda sign should stay lit ! If it's flashing, it's gonna fail so you could just stop the process and start over again, no need to wait. Try disconnecting the fan as that draws pretty much current from the battery and (could) influence the flashing process. I myself have like 3 failed flashes on every 10 flashes I do.