bmdubya1198

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bmdubya1198 last won the day on November 14 2019

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About bmdubya1198

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    Addicted to R

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    Volvos... duh

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  1. Same here. There's actually a yard not too far from here in SC that has around least 25-30 P2s that came from a retired Volvo shop owner. Gold mine if you need P2 parts.
  2. Would you believe that it sat in the pull a part lot for 2 months? I don't know why nobody else took it... glad I got it!
  3. Weird, you just linked us to a red block forum... 🤣
  4. That wire is for an aftermarket amplifier for the radio... it can be removed if the amp has been removed, or you can keep it if you wish to keep the amp. I would highly recommend moving it though, that's a really bad place for it. The control arms wear out just line any other suspension component. Fortunately, these cars have really simple suspension setups. To keep it relatively cheap, I would recommend replacing both front control arms, the struts (as well as OEM strut mounts and spring seats), and the rear shocks if those are also worn out. These cars don't rust in any area in particular and are not known for rust problems, but like any other car CAN rust. Just take a look over the chassis. If it hasn't lived much of its life near the coast or salt, it's probably fine. Basic things to check on these cars are the PCV system and the timing belt (particularly the tensioner and idler, as well as the water pump). If those things don't have a record of being replaced, I would recommend replacing them ASAP. The PCV being clogged up can cause seals to pop out (like the rear main) and lose oil, causing catastrophic failure. If the timing belt or any associated pulley fails, valve damage is inevitable which is WAY more expensive than just servicing the timing belt. Those typically need replacement every 10 years/100k miles. Again, if no record is available, just replace that as soon as you're able. Other than that, these are solid, reliable cars when maintained. Especially the 1998 models. I definitely suggest reading around on this forum and others (like Matthews Volvo Site and Swedespeed) for more info on the P80 cars and absorbing as much info as you can. They're actually pretty easy cars to learn. Good luck!
  5. +1, don't use aftermarket strut mounts, they're absolute junk. OEM only. I've had bad luck with aftermarket suspension parts.
  6. Can't say I've ever seen this done before. Typically, if you're using an engine stand, you bolt it to the block on the bell housing side (as you probably know). I'd recommend using a tire and just sitting the engine down on it with the transmission sticking up/out. That's what I did when I pulled the M56 from my cousin's V70.
  7. Cool, I'll get some pics later... I need to meet my cousin at work today anyway to get an alignment on the S60, so I'll follow him home and get the console and trim. He told me he'd grab them the other day and never did lol.
  8. I'll get you some pics later, my cousin has them in his shed. The A-pillar is in good shape, and the console is except for the spot behind the console lid that's broken (like most are). I'll check shipping cost too.
  9. That's funny, I had a similar issue in my old '98 V70 GLT. I'd be sitting at a light and it would surge down a little bit, then idle normally again. The TPS was the one thing I never checked/replaced.
  10. Here are a couple pics of the clutch pedal from the 1998 V70. The peg on the left is for the return spring, and the one on the right is for the master cylinder rod, as you probably know.
  11. I'll check VIDA in a little bit as well, probably yanking the pedals tonight and I'll post pics.
  12. It was a joke... saying that he would be down to the level of selling tunes on eBay. I guess it was a far reach lol. Same
  13. Rob from iPd is running this little company you may have heard of called ARD... so yeah, that's probably him 😂