bmdubya1198

Picked up this S60 last week for $235. It's a 2.4t. Just got it running yesterday with a junkyard 16t (the 13t the guy included from his S70 didn't fit due to the coolant lines... he removed the original turbo to troubleshoot the other car since this one was just sitting). Currently I'm working on figuring out a transmission issue... which I actually think may be the passenger side axle not fully seated. The PO told me the transmission just stopped working while he was driving with no warnings whatsoever.

I have a set if you still need them. Feel free to message me!

I already have a Hilton stage 1 tune, I just need to fix a boost leak that's been impossible to find. That as well as a weird electrical issue. Eventually I'd like to move up to a K24 when I swap the transmission to an M66.

Glad you're back to modifying Volvos after that! Looks like a nasty wreck. Very nice C70 though, looks like it gets down the road pretty well! I hope to have my V70R running at full power soon!

I feel like a used gearbox would be your best option here. I would ask the shop exactly what's wrong though before going through with buying/replacing anything. How did it fail? Did the car just stop moving? If that's the case, maybe an axle or CV joint popped out.

Hahaha dude this is killing me. I've got these CEL and ETS light signal too low codes and the boost is still acting weird. Sometimes it'll pull super hard in second (well,12 PSI feels fast compared to driving it at 10ish when it feels like holding boost) and other times it'll peak at maybe 7 and basically give me the finger. Don't know if it's a boost leak or what.

That acceleration looks brutal! Damn, I need to fix my R.

After checking my cousin's car, all the readings I got were totally normal. The only thing that I don't think is supposed to happen (haven't tested this on his car) is that the wires on ECM B41 and B46 are grounding (about 5 ohms if I pull the large connector under the dash and probe them with the key in position 2) with the key in position 2. It's between the ECU and that connector. From the connector to the cluster seems to be fine. The issue I want to focus on now is those two codes in the original post. My low boost issue seems to be due to a boost leak, not electrical. The readings I get at the TCV are within spec, so I'm happy about that.

Well, if you can't find another guy who won't worry about it, just find some sort of switch, run the wires out of sight so they look like they're connecting to something, and leave it. Not like these cars will stop you from starting them without the clutch depressed, all the switch does on a '98 is cancel the cruise control AFAIK.

Ah, I see. It's hard to tell in the diagram how it's angled. It almost looks like #12 could have a flexible section.

I think I may have found the problem. There is definitely a short to ground. I noticed it first on ECM B38 and B11, both power wires for the ECM, and worked back eventually to fuse 15 in the fuse box on the windshield cowl. I noticed it was only showing continuity to ground at this fuse when a door was opened, and I believe it has something to do with the sensor for the interior lights. What I found out after tearing a bunch of stuff down and disconnecting the three large connectors under the dash and the ignition switch ring (with the I, II, II markings, not sure what to call this) is that the wires are showing continuity to fuse 15, but also about 6.8 ohms to ground. I'm assuming that one or more of these three wires are damaged and shorting to ground between the fuse box and the other ends. Hopefully I've isolated the issue and I can find exactly where the problem is tomorrow. I'll keep this thread updated. Feel free to add any info if I'm off track here and there's supposed to be ground on all these fuses... but I feel that shouldn't be the case.

I think so. I know some countries in Europe require the clutch switch to start the car, but I don't know that anywhere in Canada has that law.

What country are you in? That seems pretty ridiculous. As far as I know, '98 and older cars do not have the clutch switch. My cousin's '98 factory manual can be started in gear or without the clutch depressed.

It looks like a pretty solid car overall, the main concern of course being the motor. Definitely a fairly straightforward weekend job. Almost makes me want to pull the full M56 swap from my V70R for this and go M66 in the V70R! If I had the cash right now I’d make you an offer.

Nice 850R project... I love these in red. We'll see how long it sticks around, I like it! Otherwise GLWS!