gadza

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About gadza

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  1. Hi guys, First of all I'd like to say thanks to everyone here for your hard work and information without which I could not enjoy the benefits of self tuning the ecu. I'll have a suggestion about a simpler way of injector calibration (really fast method,does not require driving and one person can do it),which worked perfectly for me and a question about enabling data-logging and another about the slushbox. Let me share the story in a nutshell. So I moved to Canada in 2016 and I bought an S60 T6 AWD which is a nice and boring car. However I have my beautiful S70 T5 in Europe and I could not resist the temptation to improve it. This summer I bought all the parts I wanted (DO88 intercooler and RIP, 3"intake + all water hoses silicone, Ferrita 3'DP 2.5' catback, DW300 Fuel pump, Wiseco 81.5 pistons, new oil pup, H-Rods, S90MAf,Green giants, PLX Wideband, Boost gauge, IPD TCV, MSD ignition,S60R exhaust manifold,a lame TD04HL-20T/11blade from ARD and also a K24 from ebay in very good condition as backup, tranny cooler, suspension parts, wheel bearings etc lots of other stuff and a crane to remove the engine and an engine stand. Some big parts I could ship to Europe the rest I ordered to Canada and took to EU in a checked in luggage (35kg) which the border security opened and inspected. Maybe pistons,rods and turbo looked unusual to them in the xray screen. Now the beauty of this is that I took a 3 week unpaid vacation, flew to Europe and decided that in that 3 weeks I'll do all this work by myself. There was some risk involved. One was that I did not know the color codes for the crank bearings and I did not want to buy all sizes so I decided I will trust the ones in the engine. The engine in my S70 is a junkyard 850T5 engine which made nice knocking sounds when warm but could reach 250km/h regardless with 16T. Other than that, I had never done an engine rebuild before maybe this,probably because I'm an IT guy. The first shock to the eye was the cylinder head. I've never seen valves like this. TBH I could not even see the valves themselves. First I thought they were melted. Turned out they had about 3mm thick rock-hard deposit which took a Dremel and half day to remove. Unfortunately the shop which I scheduled the cylinder boring work with refused to do the 5 angle valve job with such short deadline. Even the boring happened with a 4 day delay (weekend in the middle). At least there was no valve leak, I filled it up with wd40 and the liquid level stayed the same for 12 hr. Factory piston wrist pins were too long for the Wiseco pistons and they were really hard to 0cut to proper size. Anyway, to cut this short, I managed to put things together just 4days before the return flight. Without fuel and sparkplugs I primed the engine, then moment of truth : started right away and had a beautiful sound. Break in : I decided to go for the hard-break in, following a procedure found at a race engine builder forum. First I put some cheap oil, and drove for about 3km in 1st gear with very light load continously fluctuating rpm between 2000 and 3000. Then it got an oil and filter change to a half synthetic. Did several pulls in first gear(remember this AW50-42), gradually increasing throttle position and maximum rpm with each pull,each followed by engine brake to about 1800rpm. The promise was that after several attempts, the engine will pull harder and harder till it reaches peak performance as the rings settle. I confirm this performance increase is noticeable big time! Before, I remember how week the car felt without the turbo below 2500 (driven some x70 T5s,all are like that). Now it's day and light difference! Of course TCV was set to 0 which meant about 5psi boost till 4K rpm and 8psi over that till redline. Then it got an oil and filter change again (after 20km) to castrol edge 5w30. Engine break in was complete. I did a test pull, with 8 psi the car was much faster than before the build on 14 psi. It easily reached 210km/h in third gear without losing power but my test road was not enough to continue.I think it could have gone all the way up to redline. I had to fly back to Canada without having enough time to complete the tune.Summer fun ended. Then there was XMAS. So again, I went to Europe again to see my beloved. It finally got the DW300 fuel pump, the plx wideband, the S90 maf.Oh almost forgot, I soldered the cable to the Ostrich in the spare ECU and to my surprise it worked right away. Btw for some reason, I've always been able to flash the original ecu using a small power supply ~11.9volt but I had a large capacitor connected (100k uF or so). To my annoyance, I could not use the PLX narrowband output with the ECU because of the ~0.7V offset of the O2 sensor gnd,even though I made a small circuit to add that offset. That's because that 0.7V starts floating up and down so I had to put the original narrowband back. Not gonna give this up, I'll make another circuit with an isolation amplifier or something with a small transformer and pwm but I want to use the PLX output. So for the injector calibration: I did everything according to "tuning injector constant and dead times" article.I spent hours and hours but could never get it right. Maybe because I have a phenolic spacer installed between head and intake manifold so there are significant injector temperature changes between driving and idling for some time(winter time), which can alter injector dead times. Again I had to do this by myself without "partner in crime" so I figured another way out.My method does not require driving. I assumed that the fuel pressure relative to intake was stable, so once I set the injector constant right only playing with the dead times are required. My idea was that -assuming the injector constant is right- if car runs rich at idle and I give some throttle in neutral to reach 3k rpm, afr will lean out somewhat. Now if the car runs lean the same little throttle/3k rpm will richen the afr instead with the same injector constant. So first I set the idle afr to 14 and played with the constant till it started leaning to like 14.2 when increased the rpm to 3000.Then changed the dead time to 15.4 and tested if 3K rpm will bring it down to 15.2. Don't remember the exact numbers but was something like this. I think the whole process took about 4-5mins, then I set the dead time so idle afr was 14.7 and started driving. It stayed stable 14.7 at 90km/h. Maybe this will help someone. Then I started playing with TCV.(with the P part zeroed). I think the car is all right. Dry road, At 12psi max ~40km/h I gave some throttle, not too much to avoid downshift to 1st.Immediate wheelspin, some more throttle, bounces to redline,shifts to 3rd, speed shows 140km/h, I let off the throttle and I can't see anything in the mirror because of the tire smoke. Alright,tires are 205/50/16 only. Played little more, 17psi, no grip if I floor it at 100km/h. Still using stock 607 map, no adjustment in ignition/fueling, 95 octane euro spec fuel, no knock events.At least CEL was not flashing. Because of the S90 maf afr does not lean out towards redline, but 17psi was a mistake. increasing TCV over 65-70 adds too much boost. My questions: For some reason I could not turn on datalogging using the rev5b.bin. It does not matter which character I send I get a response R00000000 from the ecu. My adapter is USB->FTDI RS232 and then there is an VAG connector attached to the RS232. I was desperate enough few years ago to modify the bin myself a bit so when I press the accelerator with ignition on, it does not only switch the maps but it also turns on datalogging and that hack works. But why does not it work for me the way it supposed to?? Now unfortunately I did not have that bin with me when needed.Bad luck. The more important one: I could see immediately that this level of performance is not gonna be a long term fun for me. When I purchased the 20T I was hesitating to buy something larger because of the transmission. However I don't want to see high EGT and EBP anyway so this little turbo was nice for experimenting for few days but I have no plans to max it out at high rpm. Was thinking about IPD4T4 or K24 Hybrid. Decided to go with 4T4 this summer. My question is, having an external transmission cooler, what are the limits of AW50-42? I've read countless forums but never got the magic number. I'm not planning to do light to light accelerations and have a temperature gauge installed for the tranny oil so I can monitor it. When the oil is not hot, what can that transmission take? I don't want midrange peak torque, I want a flat curve from 3000 to redline. gear 1,2 and 4 locks up so if the clutches don't slip I guess it's ok. In third gear it likes to keep the rpm around 5k and use the torque converter for better acceleration. That's another scary part. I could see Dougy's posts, now that is pushing the limits for sure. Do you guys think it can take a flat 500nm curve if the oil temp is ok? Or is there a magic number? Please don't start giving me advice about switching to manual transmission.Yes I love manual, in fact I have RWD manual car which I sometimes use for drifting.The S70 I want to keep like this. Thanks
  2. I see and agree, it's a better and cleaner way to implement the whole thing from code. No doubt. Also there is something I don't understand,I'm just curious : how can fuel cut@overboost cause lean combustion when there is no fuel at all? If the cut is not during an "injector open" cycle? Unburnt fuel from exhaust because of backpressure? Thanks.
  3. The second part of my idea is not that important and can be difficult indeed. The first part (fuel cut) is the main idea. This circuit would not stay in the car permanently, no. The purpose of the circuit is, to avoid boost spike and bent rods while trying out a new setup for the first time (TCV map, Load map and PID settings) with a bigger turbo. If the software tune is OK, circuit can be removed from the car. In this way, the circuit is simple. Five injectors can be driven with five low voltage low resistance mosfets and a mosfet driver. Microcontroller would just drive the mosfet any time injector signal is received, for the duration of the injector signal - unless MAP reports higher than expected boost.Then the following injector input signals would be ignored until boost returned below threshold.
  4. Hi guys, I just registered to VS but have been following this forum for years. I'm really happy about all the information found here and I flashed my M4.4 many times. I have an S70, B5204T3@16T, 225HP from factory, replaced with B5234T from an 850 and a S60R manifold. It's around 260HP, which is not much I know, but it's fun to adjust things. Can't go too far because of AW50-42. However I wanted to buy a 20T and a transmission oil cooler, but recently moved to Canada from Europe and left my beloved S70 behind (didn't sell it,never will,it's in very good condition,parking in a garage and miss it so much everyday. sigh). So why I'm writing here now is not to ask a question but to give a suggestion. I know there is a risk of bending rods while playing around but I have a solution everyone could benefit from. I wanted to make it myself but unfortunately I've never had the time. So I suggest Piet should develop it and make it available to anyone, if he likes the idea. So, it is a simple circuit with a Microcontroller. A MAP sensor attached to the air intake would be connected to the circuit. All the injector cables would also be detached from the injectors and connected to the circuit board instead. The circuit would drive the injectors. From the input, the Microcontroller would know the Boost pressure and the RPM. Max Boost for a given RPM could be set on this device via RS232 or rather USB/Bluetooth/Wifi connection. Basic operation: if boost pressure exceeds air pressure limit at given rpm, injector inputs will be ignored. (of course it would not apply to any signal in progress, output signal can't be shorter than input) or can be programmed to increase injector opening time instead of shut down. So above MAF limit, it could rely on the MAP sensor. If Piet developed the hardware, then I would make an app for Android for this project (to configure the hardware) and publish the source.That would be my contribution to the community. Feedback welcome! Thanks. PS: I after moving I was thinking about buying my dream S60R but I read many forums, cracked head, weak drive train so I might buy an S70 or C70-98.