Vykis199009

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About Vykis199009

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  • Birthday 09/20/1990

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  1. Yeah... I have a feeling it`s coz of few sleeves was changed, need to cut out few samples and i`ll know...
  2. Short story of my car, wich i bought in 2015, from factoy it had 2.5 142kw engine... 2016 1 month pure stock, then tune to 160kw. Not enough, bought 16t turbo. Local guy tuned motronic 4.4, made pops and bangs, was fun 😄 never went to dyno, butt dyno says it had around 190kw. Broke engine after summer, bent all rods coz i didn`t care about engine health anymore since i knew it wont hold 300+ safe. 2017 2.0l 132kw engine from s60 (the one with 9.5 compression) k24 turbo, e85, walbro 255, siemens deka 630cc, some crap fmic from iveco daily, self tuned, made 302hp/500nm at 1bar, was very rich at dyno, lots of misfires coz of that (at street was all perfect at 1.6 overboost, tappering to 1.4 bar, guesses around 330hp, but turbo was old, tired, broke the turbo after 3 months of driving). Bought forged rods, opened engine, and then realised 139.5 ones wont fin. Overall engine was in good shape, but i was lazy to put it back together, everything went to metal, oh well... Then bought hx35 turbo with 54mm 7 blades wheel and started to look for b5234t engine. 2018 Found engine, with forged rods, very cheap, had only 4k km after rebuild. Skipped year, was gathering parts suchs as full alu radiator, tubular manifold, 600x300x100mm intercooler, piping, brakes, wheels, standalone ecu.. 2019 Winter ended with making all engine wiring for Ecumaster Emu Classic, puting brakes, etc. Found Brembo calipers from alfa romeo, bought Rottinger slotted disk, 336mm front, stock diameter rear. Ferodo premier pads, some nice BBS wheels, 8j front, 9j rear. with 225/45 semi slick tyres up front, 245/40 rear. Also changed fuel pump to Walbro 450, did some wiring upgrade for it, also bought siemens deka 875cc injectors, FPR regulator. After puting everything together, spent maybe a week, till i managed to start the car with standalone ecu without tune, no base map, nothing, 5 evenings sent just to make the car start.. Few more days to make it run from garage on herself. And sadly, engine wasn`t in so good shape as i thought, 30km later, just when i went for base tune to a locar tuner, lost oil pressure at 1.3 bar WOT 3rd gear, spun all bearings, 2 rods became black, 2 bearrings melted and became part of crank, yay! Good thing i had crank from 2017 season engine and new set of cxracing rods. Rebuilded engine with new crank, new rods, stock pistons and rings was still in good shape, so i left them. King racing rods bearing, King main bearings, D5 oil cooler, etc etc. Finally engine was runing great, did 100km break in, changed oil for Valvoline vr1 10w60, went to tune it again. Lots of boost leaks, boost coming very slow ant late, 1.5 bar 435ag/580nm... Tuner said my engine cant breath or turbo is maxed out (boost solenoid DC at 50% only, with 0.8 bar base pressure spring. Okay, weekend at garage, fixing boost leaks. Decided to tune it myself, since i had pretty much good map allready, good ignition table. 1.9 bar "overboost" tappering to 1.8 at 6k, 1.7 at 7k rpm(or backpressure, or wastegate spring was over, 100% duty cycle and couldn`t raise boost anymore). Injectors duty ~88-90% at 3.5bar base fuel pressure (siemends deka 875cc@3bar). 449ag/644nm, sounds a bit better, finnaly car is kinda fast, even without LSD i managed to make 0-100kmh in 5.5s, and 9s 1/8 mile in few tries, even did 8s 100-200 with rolling anti-lag. Without it, best i managed, was 8.6 (rev`ing to 6.8, when no point to rev more than 6.2 as i saw later, after looking at logs and trying different variations of gear change). Boost by gear helps a lot. Sadly, B.itch broke after 1.2k km...... Some pictures from build before engine decided to brake. And look what broke! Log was clean, no detonation, no lean afr, nothing bad. Just few pulls, and lots of smoke... Spark plugs looks good, still have no idea what went wrong 😞Bye bye cylinder #5. Funny thing, all rest looks good, pistons, rods, rings, ringlands, bearings, everything good everywhere except #5.. TBH even #5 piston didn`t broke, just melted a bit from cylinder wall. Cyl #5 rod bearings, ony ones wich in bad shape Piston looks like it hit the head, but on head no marks indicating this happened, also i don`t understand how this is possible, unless crank broke, or somehow it got bent in few pulls. Coz this happened few days after last dyno. Overall i drove around 400km with 1.8-1.9 bar, and i took this car to drive not for simple cruise, but for WOT runs, to have some fun. (don`t mind grooves from valves, not my job, old engine owner broke smth, and used these pistons in next engine, budget builds, you know... 😄 ) AAAAAAAAnd plan for 2020 Got tired of braking stuff. Bought built b5204t (that old one, with 77 stroke, 8.4 comp. ratio). Engine was built 5 years ago for drag racing, by local builders who proven by community, they have hands how to build engines. Domes around cylinders, custom head studs, custom FCP rods (4mm wider than china ones). Fully rebuilt and ported head with hidro lifters. All cleaned, changed what was necessary, everything measured. Engine was never fired, a guy left project for few years. Took it apart for cleaning, didn`t liked glyco bearings (not sputter ones, wtf). The difference of rods/pistons 2.0 vs 2.3 🙂 Yes, both rods is same lenght! Since there is no 2.0 forged pistons, i will make 2.3 from this block, don`t like the design of 2.0 pistons, and since i`m lucky with oil pressure, it will be way easier to get 90mm crank instead of 77 one, just in case, you know 😄 Some pics of block and head ports Long story short, for next year i will build this block with 90mm crank, 139.5mm rods, wiseco pistons. Head will get Cat Cams p/n 7902716 Camshaft data: Intake/Exhaust Duration @ 0.1mm: 274°/268° Duration @ 1.0mm: 246°/232° Valve lift: 10,90mm/10,25mm Lobe angle: 110°/120° Timing @ 1.0mm: 13°_53°/56°_-5° Valve lift @ TDC: 2,50/0,60mm if i`ll be able to order these, if not, then p/n 7902713 at least. Ofc springs, retainers, and i will need to figure out how to convert hidro lifters to solid ones. Gonna have to buy KL Racing intake manifold, "fix" it, probably remake exhaust manifold, since i`ll go for hx40 super with 60mm wheel, i don`t think turbo will fir anymore in old location, also with such wastegate location, i`m limited to 3inch downpipe. Bosch 1700cc injectors, maybe walbro 525 or DW400 fuel pump, quafie LSD, maybe bc racing coilovers, if winter will be good with job and paychecks 😄 small goal is to reach 5s 0-100, 12.5s 1/4 mile, 7s 100-200. 550 at the crank should be enough, with flatshift maybe even just a bit over 500.
  3. OT: how much timing people run on e85 nowdays, lets say with 1.8-2bar (26-30 psi) ? currently i have 20 degrees from 5k to 7k rpm on 1.8bar, still feels like torque rolls off fast from 6k rpm ;/ turbo is hx35 7 blades, so i assume it is far from limits yet
  4. Anyone know, what trigger settings should be when running aftermarket ecu ? looked at vems settings, seems for ecumaster emu they kinda don`t work. Tried first trigger tooth #5 and trigger angle 60. Car kinda starts, but idle is around 2.5k rpm. Logs show that IAC valve stays at 50% dc afterstart, maybe 250hz freq is too much for that old bosch 3-wire oldschool ? Or my trigger settings is way off and i have so high idle coz of bunch of timing advance ?
  5. okay, now i see whats could be the problem, i guess boxman tested it. load vs rpm table is not enough, at least how i think, with big turbo, to minimize overshoot. the part about floring pedal at higher rpm`s sounds about right, with slow spool turbo`s at least
  6. okay, got it. going to order mac boost solenoid then. now, what about afr mod, logs screenshots, not many floating around, still can`t decide is it worth with semi-big turbo
  7. colder weather = colder intake temps. colder intake temps = you can add more ignition before detonation, right ? just some theory thoughts. Piet, is it possible to make some boost target table using signal from map sensor aka electronic boost gauge 0-5v signal for example ? i really don`t wanna use ldr routines, for me its just to much time consuming tuning, since you basicly said, boxman way to tune with ldr off, record load, and then build load target table, is kinda not right way to tune it.
  8. ldr off it is then. will need that wb mod tho, but i`m not a fan depending only on wideband sensor itself without having VE fuel table.... in all standalone ecu`s afr table is for correction for perfect fueling, and ve table as baseline, from where ecu should make minor changes for target afr. less % to change, faster the changes apply. Boost pressure reduction factor, manual transmission the lower the value, the less tcv duty cycle gonna be applied at 1st gear ? how this works really ? Configbyte for Gear Dependent Boost Control don`t get it, what value to put for 1st and 2nd MT gear`s to reduce burnouts also, if i put IAT right before manifold, i will need to use LDR duty cycle correction, intake air temperature table to build up a map how much tcv duty cycle to remove from main tcv map according to temperaturs, lets say in cold days, when intake air temp is lower, solenoid will work less to maintain same boost pressure, right ? same way on high temp intake temps on hot days i can make turbo to make less pressure not to stress engine so much. i`m thinking right ?
  9. can`t download MIL Flash - 608 - x64.exe file, forum don`t let me. any way this could be uploaded somewhere like google drive for example ? also, i`m a bit confused, is it ok to use tcv map for boost control with ldr routines disabled without caring about target load map ? or is it still essential, after tcv map is sorted out, for safety reasons ? also, could someone post some screenshots from logs on part load and WOT when using wideband control mod ?
  10. random question/thought: 2.3t RN engine bone stock, hx35 12cm2, e85 fuel, fmic, gonna dyno tune, not myself. what power/torque u think its safe to go for ? injectors gonna be enough for 400 on the flywheel. random question v2: i have electronic boost gauge, 0-5v (i think, not 100% sure), so in theory, i can take signal from gauge to motronic ecu free adc and find out formula to calc pressure for loging, right ?
  11. remind me please, why none uses MBC and all waisting so much time on boost control via tetris ecu ? not like ecu will be fast enough to prevent overboost with huge turbo or anything... only advantage of it would be boost target via map sensor or if you wanna make to spool turbo later than it could. just my 0.25$
  12. it will be kinda custom coilovers. rear atm is stock, front is stock shocks for now and https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Lowering-Suspension-Springs-Integra/dp/B019C4M5OS/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496231310&sr=1-6&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4716113011 this cheap thing. plan is to remake stock shocks, make it wayy more harder, shorter... i calculated this suspension mod gonna be like twice cheaper than cheapest bolt-on coils, and should work wayy better, less bouncy.