Short story of my car, wich i bought in 2015, from factoy it had 2.5 142kw engine...
1 month pure stock, then tune to 160kw. Not enough, bought 16t turbo. Local guy tuned motronic 4.4, made pops and bangs, was fun 😄 never went to dyno, butt dyno says it had around 190kw. Broke engine after summer, bent all rods coz i didn`t care about engine health anymore since i knew it wont hold 300+ safe.
2.0l 132kw engine from s60 (the one with 9.5 compression)
k24 turbo, e85, walbro 255, siemens deka 630cc, some crap fmic from iveco daily, self tuned, made 302hp/500nm at 1bar, was very rich at dyno, lots of misfires coz of that (at street was all perfect at 1.6 overboost, tappering to 1.4 bar, guesses around 330hp, but turbo was old, tired, broke the turbo after 3 months of driving). Bought forged rods, opened engine, and then realised 139.5 ones wont fin. Overall engine was in good shape, but i was lazy to put it back together, everything went to metal, oh well... Then bought hx35 turbo with 54mm 7 blades wheel and started to look for b5234t engine.
Found engine, with forged rods, very cheap, had only 4k km after rebuild. Skipped year, was gathering parts suchs as full alu radiator, tubular manifold, 600x300x100mm intercooler, piping, brakes, wheels, standalone ecu..
Winter ended with making all engine wiring for Ecumaster Emu Classic, puting brakes, etc.
Found Brembo calipers from alfa romeo, bought Rottinger slotted disk, 336mm front, stock diameter rear. Ferodo premier pads, some nice BBS wheels, 8j front, 9j rear. with 225/45 semi slick tyres up front, 245/40 rear. Also changed fuel pump to Walbro 450, did some wiring upgrade for it, also bought siemens deka 875cc injectors, FPR regulator. After puting everything together, spent maybe a week, till i managed to start the car with standalone ecu without tune, no base map, nothing, 5 evenings sent just to make the car start.. Few more days to make it run from garage on herself. And sadly, engine wasn`t in so good shape as i thought, 30km later, just when i went for base tune to a locar tuner, lost oil pressure at 1.3 bar WOT 3rd gear, spun all bearings, 2 rods became black, 2 bearrings melted and became part of crank, yay! Good thing i had crank from 2017 season engine and new set of cxracing rods. Rebuilded engine with new crank, new rods, stock pistons and rings was still in good shape, so i left them. King racing rods bearing, King main bearings, D5 oil cooler, etc etc. Finally engine was runing great, did 100km break in, changed oil for Valvoline vr1 10w60, went to tune it again. Lots of boost leaks, boost coming very slow ant late, 1.5 bar 435ag/580nm... Tuner said my engine cant breath or turbo is maxed out (boost solenoid DC at 50% only, with 0.8 bar base pressure spring. Okay, weekend at garage, fixing boost leaks. Decided to tune it myself, since i had pretty much good map allready, good ignition table. 1.9 bar "overboost" tappering to 1.8 at 6k, 1.7 at 7k rpm(or backpressure, or wastegate spring was over, 100% duty cycle and couldn`t raise boost anymore). Injectors duty ~88-90% at 3.5bar base fuel pressure (siemends deka 875cc@3bar). 449ag/644nm, sounds a bit better, finnaly car is kinda fast, even without LSD i managed to make 0-100kmh in 5.5s, and 9s 1/8 mile in few tries, even did 8s 100-200 with rolling anti-lag. Without it, best i managed, was 8.6 (rev`ing to 6.8, when no point to rev more than 6.2 as i saw later, after looking at logs and trying different variations of gear change). Boost by gear helps a lot. Sadly, B.itch broke after 1.2k km......
Some pictures from build before engine decided to brake.
And look what broke! Log was clean, no detonation, no lean afr, nothing bad. Just few pulls, and lots of smoke... Spark plugs looks good, still have no idea what went wrong 😞Bye bye cylinder #5. Funny thing, all rest looks good, pistons, rods, rings, ringlands, bearings, everything good everywhere except #5.. TBH even #5 piston didn`t broke, just melted a bit from cylinder wall.
Cyl #5 rod bearings, ony ones wich in bad shape
Piston looks like it hit the head, but on head no marks indicating this happened, also i don`t understand how this is possible, unless crank broke, or somehow it got bent in few pulls. Coz this happened few days after last dyno. Overall i drove around 400km with 1.8-1.9 bar, and i took this car to drive not for simple cruise, but for WOT runs, to have some fun. (don`t mind grooves from valves, not my job, old engine owner broke smth, and used these pistons in next engine, budget builds, you know... 😄 )
AAAAAAAAnd plan for 2020
Got tired of braking stuff. Bought built b5204t (that old one, with 77 stroke, 8.4 comp. ratio). Engine was built 5 years ago for drag racing, by local builders who proven by community, they have hands how to build engines. Domes around cylinders, custom head studs, custom FCP rods (4mm wider than china ones). Fully rebuilt and ported head with hidro lifters. All cleaned, changed what was necessary, everything measured. Engine was never fired, a guy left project for few years. Took it apart for cleaning, didn`t liked glyco bearings (not sputter ones, wtf). The difference of rods/pistons 2.0 vs 2.3 🙂
Yes, both rods is same lenght! Since there is no 2.0 forged pistons, i will make 2.3 from this block, don`t like the design of 2.0 pistons, and since i`m lucky with oil pressure, it will be way easier to get 90mm crank instead of 77 one, just in case, you know 😄
Some pics of block and head ports
Long story short, for next year i will build this block with 90mm crank, 139.5mm rods, wiseco pistons.
Head will get Cat Cams p/n 7902716
Camshaft data: Intake/Exhaust
Duration @ 0.1mm: 274°/268°
Duration @ 1.0mm: 246°/232°
Valve lift: 10,90mm/10,25mm
Lobe angle: 110°/120°
Timing @ 1.0mm: 13°_53°/56°_-5°
Valve lift @ TDC: 2,50/0,60mm
if i`ll be able to order these, if not, then p/n 7902713 at least. Ofc springs, retainers, and i will need to figure out how to convert hidro lifters to solid ones.
Gonna have to buy KL Racing intake manifold, "fix" it, probably remake exhaust manifold, since i`ll go for hx40 super with 60mm wheel, i don`t think turbo will fir anymore in old location, also with such wastegate location, i`m limited to 3inch downpipe. Bosch 1700cc injectors, maybe walbro 525 or DW400 fuel pump, quafie LSD, maybe bc racing coilovers, if winter will be good with job and paychecks 😄 small goal is to reach 5s 0-100, 12.5s 1/4 mile, 7s 100-200. 550 at the crank should be enough, with flatshift maybe even just a bit over 500.