lowkeyturbo

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  1. Yes it does. I am running Simplyvolvo's Volsquirt and you can set up dual fuel maps easily
  2. First off ditch that sensor and get an AEM X series 30-0300. The wideband needs to have a signal ground for the 5v signal from the AFR gauge so it can compensate for the ECU voltage offset. Second of all there is a delay from when the exhaust gas exits the engine until it makes its way to the O2 sensor. You need a "lambda delay table" in order for AFR correction to work properly. Without it there will be a discrepancy between what the O2 sensor is seeing vs what the actual AFR is at that time. I don't know if Aaron has implemented that.
  3. Use the dual vvt head, you can get some nice spool out of it. Its not hard to set up. Get the angles, hook up the solenoids, ME7 cam sensors etc etc. No need for the block mod. It does not make the block stronger, it just stops it from leaking if it cracks. 81mm block is good for 600-800hp depending on who you ask. Also take a look at the Pulsar g25 660 and 770, should be a better turbo for your application. Don't do the ARP head-studs you will probably crack the block water jackets. Go with the VAG diesel 12.9 170mm blots with spacers cut down to 157mm ( i can find the PN if you want I have them on my block) with the s60r MLS gasket. Simplyvolvo is running this setup at over 1000 crank hp with no head issues. For the 707 with R clutch disk is RATED for 577nm... I dont think you will go above that so I would stick with that setup, drivability is nice (i have this setup with the quaife LSD), but you need to re-dill the holes on the flywheel to match the 707 PP. I don't see the point of the D5 crankshaft..... Just get a RN 93.2mm crankshaft I would recommend Glyco sputter rod bearings and King XPS main bearings. When using the RN oil pan there is a great place for the oil temp sensor (its a plug right after the oil is sent up to the block) and you can use a Y adapter to get the pressure from where the stock pressure switch is, there is more then enough space there. I would also reccomend you do an adapter plate for the stock oil cooler with AN10 lines and run an external oil cooler with and oil termostat.
  4. It can happen with bad engine mounts. The shock of the engine moving can cause the knock sensor to pick up the engine metal clanking as knock. There is also the possibility of bad fuel trims and the enrichment on sudden throttle surge to cause the car to go lean. Id check those out.
  5. No need to do this complicated procedure. Simply remove the pump and all sensors and hoses and disable it from the ECU.
  6. You need to use fuel injection hose for the one that sits in the tank. Its different from normal fuel hose.
  7. Does anyone know what fueling table the launch control uses ? I have a feeling the default one is a bit lean and I wanna add a bit more fuel to it.
  8. Yeah I was thinking the same thing. But a question would be ... why? Would it not be rich in both instances.?? Maybe because i raised the fuel rail pressure to 4 bar? Maybe the higher pressure reacts differently at different temps?
  9. My car idles rich if its completely cold on startup tats fine. BUT it idles lean if I start it and it has not fully cooled off (Lets say coolant temp of 40C). I dont get it??? Do the warm-up maps not take dead times or injector constant into account?
  10. Can you please post the warm-up map hex locations? They arn't in the XDF I am trying to zero out my LTFT since i am running green injectors are 4 bar
  11. Mine runs rich if its completely cold and lean when its still warm and not cooled off completely. It should not be a problem at idle as far as I am aware but you can fix this by setting delay time to lambda regulation on to a small value. Pretty sure its in seconds. I also see you are running a wideband. I am not sure how Aaron coded it in but since it uses STFT to regulate the AFR if you set the Delay Lambda Reg to 1 sec it should start using the wideband AFR 1 sec after startup and go to AFR target table right away. Dont quote me on this but I think the delay is for Catalytic converter protection because of the cat warmup procedure. If you are not running a cat I think you can just set them to to like 4 or 5 seconds or something with no problems :)
  12. Dont use the 540i 3.25 ID maf. It reads wrong for some reason 1.94 was giving me only 950 KG/Hr on a k24 at like 19 PSI.I put in the S90 MAF with 1.34 and same tune... was making 1070 kg/hr which is exactly what it should be making. BMW 540i Maf does not seem to read right.
  13. Make sure you use the Load re-scaling tool for all things knock and ign timing related