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Posts posted by lowkeyturbo

  1. On 7/27/2022 at 6:42 PM, Rstein said:

    Do aftermarket ECUs like MegaSquirt have a option to run more than one fuel/timing map? I had this genius idea of implementing a button that allows me to switch from low power to high power map.

    A bit like the Pursuit Mode button KITT has I guess lol, which is also where said idea came from.

    cc: @Simply Volvosince he runs a MegaSquirt in basically what I want to build one day: 750 hp 850 TT5/R AWD


    Yes it does.


    I am running Simplyvolvo's Volsquirt and you can set up dual fuel maps easily

    • Like 1
  2. On 5/28/2022 at 3:34 PM, Chuck W said:

    So, does anyone have any input into the configuration I posted above? I'm going to dig into the internal connections on the ECU again, but I want to verify that I at least have set things up properly in TP. I've been trying to do some digging, but even in this thread info seems to be elusive.

    First off ditch that sensor and get an AEM X series 30-0300. The wideband needs to have a signal ground for the 5v signal from the AFR gauge so it can compensate for the ECU voltage offset.


    Second of all there is a delay from when the exhaust gas exits the engine until it makes its way to the O2 sensor. You need a "lambda delay table" in order for AFR correction to work properly. Without it there will be a discrepancy between what the O2 sensor is seeing vs what the actual AFR is at that time. I don't know if Aaron has implemented that. 

  3. Use the dual vvt head, you can get some nice spool out of it. Its not hard to set up. Get the angles, hook up the solenoids, ME7 cam sensors etc etc. 


    No need for the block mod. It does not make the block stronger, it just stops it from leaking if it cracks. 81mm block is good for 600-800hp depending on who you ask. 


    Also take a look at the Pulsar g25 660 and 770, should be a better turbo for your application.


    Don't do the ARP head-studs you will probably crack the block water jackets.


    Go with the VAG diesel 12.9 170mm blots with spacers cut down to 157mm ( i can find the PN if you want I have them on my block) with the s60r MLS gasket. Simplyvolvo is running this setup at over 1000 crank hp with no head issues.


    For the 707 with R clutch disk is RATED for 577nm... I dont think you will go above that so I would stick with that setup, drivability is nice (i have this setup with the quaife LSD), but you need to re-dill the holes on the flywheel to match the 707 PP.


    I don't see the point of the D5 crankshaft..... Just get a RN 93.2mm crankshaft


    I would recommend Glyco sputter rod bearings and King XPS main bearings. 


    When using the RN oil pan there is a great place for the oil temp sensor (its a plug right after the oil is sent up to the block) and you can use a Y adapter to get the pressure from where the stock pressure switch is, there is more then enough space there.


    I would also reccomend you do an adapter plate for the stock oil cooler with AN10 lines and run an external oil cooler with and oil termostat.


  4. On 12/16/2021 at 6:48 PM, jenksta said:

    Got an odd issue wondered if anyone could shed some light on.

    Got myself a V70 2.5T (LPT) since I killed the 850 T5 (crashed - not engine failure haha), been tuning and tweaking e.t.c. over the past month or so since I got it back on the road. Since the start I had a voltage issue and was only running at around 12.5v - this turned out to be the crimp at the battery terminal so sorted now and running at 13.5v+.

    However since sorting this I'm getting throttle tip in knock real bad, regardless of if I'm at standstill or driving along if I blip the throttle I get knock flag and timing pull galore. If I ease the throttle in gently no knock - also no knock on hard pulls e.t.c.

    Even going back to an old bin I still get the same issue - and looking at my logs pretty much everything is the same if I compare similar behaviour rows from old logs with no tip in knock vs new logs with tip in knock so really stumped on this one.

    Any ideas please?


    It can happen with bad engine mounts. The shock of the engine moving can cause the knock sensor to pick up the engine metal clanking as knock.


    There is also the possibility of bad fuel trims and the enrichment on sudden throttle surge to cause the car to go lean. Id check those out.

  5. On 2/22/2021 at 1:11 PM, Goupil said:

    Ended up being a massive diagnostic error on my side 🙄 I used the hose clamps that came with the AEM 320LPH fuel pump, it worked fine when the hose was brand new but as it got softer sitting in the tank it wasn't making a proper seal on the carrier side...

    Everything works fine now !

    I'm using 0.29 TEMIN as well, but 0.24 makes more sense

    You need to use fuel injection hose for the one that sits in the tank. Its different from normal fuel hose.


  6. On 12/18/2018 at 9:48 PM, Tightmopedman9 said:

    Sorry for the confusion, I typed up that response hastily and didn't really pay attention to what I posted.

    I was able to find my notes from the 'fix' and the problem was that the compressor would click on once, and immediately turn off, never to turn on again until the car was restarted. Maybe it was just a problem with their AC pressure sensor malfunctioning, but they did mention that they tested high and low side pressure when the problem was occurring and both were in spec. 

    Probably disabling the pressure error shut off isn't the best course of action, but if you want to do so you can set 0xCAC6 & 0xCAC7 to 00. 

    It could be that you need to increase the cold start factor at higher coolant temps, while leaving the lower coolant temp values the same. 

    Yeah I was thinking the same thing. But a question would be ... why? Would it not be rich in both instances.??


    Maybe because i raised the fuel rail pressure to 4 bar? Maybe the higher pressure reacts differently at different temps?

  7. On 11/27/2018 at 12:41 PM, Tightmopedman9 said:

    Reduce your acceleration enrichment at low coolant temps, there is another accel enrichment table at 0xCFA4, same size and axes as the other tables. 

    Also, reduce the values in afterstart enrichment at 0xD8B4, single axis table, 16 values long. 

    It is impossible to get the 850 MAF to sit in the center of the 540i housing, it is off by more than .75". I stopped recommending this housing because it is a pain in the ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD to tune. 


    Avinit, I like the hole in your board so that you can solder the pins to the board in situ, very smart. 

    My car idles rich if its completely cold on startup tats fine.

    BUT it idles lean if I start it and it has not fully cooled off (Lets say coolant temp of 40C). I dont get it??? Do the warm-up maps not take dead times or injector constant into account?

  8. On 11/26/2018 at 3:57 PM, oblark said:


    As the weather getting colder here in the UK I've noticed when the car is started from cold it runs very rich (AFR of 10) 

    When rev'd it doesn't pick up and when it does black smoke comes out of the exhaust, after 5 minutes of idling it runs fine.

    So I'm thinking as it's now a 2.5 ltr the warm up tables need tweaking, so which warm up table needs adjusting ?



    warm up tables.jpg

    Can you please post the warm-up map hex locations? They arn't in the XDF


    I am trying to zero out my LTFT since i am running green injectors are 4 bar

  9. 20 hours ago, oblark said:


    As the weather getting colder here in the UK I've noticed when the car is started from cold it runs very rich (AFR of 10) 

    When rev'd it doesn't pick up and when it does black smoke comes out of the exhaust, after 5 minutes of idling it runs fine.

    So I'm thinking as it's now a 2.5 ltr the warm up tables need tweaking, so which warm up table needs adjusting ?



    warm up tables.jpg

    Mine runs rich if its completely cold and lean when its still warm and not cooled off completely.

    It should not be a problem at idle as far as I am aware but you can fix this by setting delay time to lambda regulation on to a small value. Pretty sure its in seconds.



    I also see you are running a wideband. I am not sure how Aaron coded it in but since it uses STFT to regulate the AFR if you set the Delay Lambda Reg to 1 sec it should start using the wideband AFR 1 sec after startup and go to AFR target table right away.


    Dont quote me on this but I think the delay is for Catalytic converter protection because of the cat warmup procedure. If you are not running a cat I think you can just set them to to like 4 or 5 seconds or something with no problems :)

  10. On 11/4/2018 at 10:06 AM, bomb192uk said:

    Right so I dug out my BMW MAF and measured it.  It is unfortunately the 3.25" (82mm) ID with an OD of 93mm.  The part number is 0280217800

    After some digging on the BMW forums the 3.5" MAF is from the Euro M3 (and others including porsches) with a part number of 0280217806.  Problem is these seems to be way more expensive than the 800 MAF even second hand and I can't verify the 3.5" is actually the ID.

    There are some custom aluminium housings available, though they list the sizes in OD instead of ID:


    Dont use the 540i 3.25 ID maf. It reads wrong for some reason 1.94 was giving me only 950 KG/Hr on a k24 at like 19 PSI.I put in the S90 MAF with 1.34 and same tune... was making 1070 kg/hr which is exactly what it should be making. BMW 540i Maf does not seem to read right.

  11. On 10/21/2018 at 6:45 AM, oblark said:

    Thanks for getting back to me.

    I checked the bin file against an old one and noticed some of the knock tables where set to 8.02 load instead of 12.24.

    I set the BTC to 0.54 but under WOT I was only getting 5psi of boost so I've lowered to 0.44 and I try that during the week. 

    Make sure you use the Load re-scaling tool for all things knock and ign timing related

  12. 3 hours ago, gdog said:

    @lowkeyturbo  Is your KRCOUNT going > 1?   A KRCOUNT of 1 will turn on the CEL, but per Aaron (tmm9), an occasional 1 count can be safely tolerated.  But a KRCOUNT of more than 1 is something to be concerned with.

    Your ign map looks about like mine, and mods are appropriate too.  I battled trying to get more out of my setup too for about a year on pump gas; was even running octane booster (don't do it!) until I eventually went to WMI.  That's the ticket!  I can run 3-4 degrees more ign timing on my wmi map w/o any knock at all.  The downside is, you will then be able to pull loads that will make the non-COP ign system weak in the knees.  So recommend you do both (wmi and COP) mods at the same time.  Wish I did in hindsight. :wacko:



    Yeah actual krcount.  Mostly one. But I've seen it go to two ... Bleh. Wmi Is a lot of work . No welding access 

  13. Can someone running an 18t/19t/k24 post up their ignition map and write how much PSI you are running?

    I am having to ruin very little timing around 9.5 MS load like we are talking 9 degrees @ 4200 rpm on a K24 at around 16 PSI or so.

    AFR is around 11.8.


    I just want to get some reference. @gdog @Piet guys? any Suggestions?




    This is my map and i am still getting intermittent pings at around 5000 and 6000 rpm. Only 1 or two knock events once in a while.


    I am in Canada and running Petro Canada 94 gasoline ONLY. 


    Ambient temp is around 25-33 deg C 


    Any ideas? Mods are in signature for reference.

  14. 13 hours ago, wildstyle said:

    Mind if I add this revision to the wiki with both you and Calvin credited? 

    Please do! That would be great!


    A note to add would be once you enable the LDR routine again to add in some values back to the  LDR duty cycle correction, intake air temperature since it would take less TCV duty cycle to reach same load since the air is colder and denser therefor you need less boost to create the same MAF reading.

    • Upvote 1
  15. On 11/9/2017 at 7:29 PM, Boxman said:

    Tuning load on big turbo's - New method - Target Load, TCV Duty Cycle and LDR (TCV) Control Mechanism


    Hi All,

    Sorry for quoting such a big post but I wanna clear some things up after logging and working with @Calvin Sonnik on getting stuff dialed in.

    So to disable LDR routing you DO NOT need to disable "LDR Throttle angle threshold: all values to 110 (or max)"


    Doing so only made me not able to log TCV duty Cycle.

    All you need to to do is set :

    LDR P-Part: all values to 0
    LDR KFP2: all values to 0 
    AND zero out LDR duty cycle correction, intake air temperature **(This is done PRE-LDR routine and lowers your TCV cycle by that amount)

    That made it follow the TCV duty cycle one to one and was able to log TCV cycle no problem :)

    Just wanted to give a big shutout to@Calvin Sonnik helping me out with all this LDR and tuning stuff. Getting the K24 dialed in slowly but surely :)

    • Upvote 1
  16. 27 minutes ago, razorx said:

    Best is to find the right values for your car yourself.

    Venderbrouck has written excellent instructions about injector calibration. You will find them in the Wikia.  ;)

    Yes thank you I am aware of that. The problem is I have an AFR gauge but its not installed. I am changing my 16T(straight flange) to a k24 (angle flange) and installing new downpipe. I want to have the injectors raised to 3.8/4 bar with the walbro lph255 somewhat close for the new turbo because I will install the AFR gauge along with the new downpipe and exhaust I dont want to be running the car with Improper fueling on a K24 with R mani and 3 inch exhaust, that's a recipe for disaster lol.

  17. 8 hours ago, German850R said:

    You can just calculate the new factor, taking into account the raised fuel pressure compared to 3 bar.

    For 3 bar 0.7188 works fine if the dead times are correct.

    The thing is there is a bit of discussion on actual flow rates of green @ 3 bar. the .7188 factor is for 442 cc @ 3 bar. But most OE injectors flow 420 CC @ 3 and subsequently 475 or so @ 3.8/4 BAR. That would make the adjustment factor around .6631.

    Does anyone have any experience with this?

  18. 1 hour ago, Piet said:

    It's a bit more complicated I'am afraid.

    I've tested (volvo) greens 0 280 155 968 to be 448 cc at 3 bar:



    There are two different types of  greens though 415 and 448 cc, but  not being the ford injectors.


     Man that just makes it more complicated.


    Were those out of a S60R/V70R p2 or a 2000 V70R.

    Maybe the 415cc are the 2000V70R and the 448 are the P2 S/V -R's?


    Are the PN the same for the P80 and P2 greens?

  19. Hey guys, Long time lurker here.


    So I think I finally found out the Green injector Mystery.

    The green Injectors flow 415cc @ 3 bar NOT 440CC at 3 bar.


    Did not anyone think it was strange that it was said they flow 440cc @ 3 bar and 465 @ 3.8? 


    Here is the Solution it comes like this. There are two "green" injectors.


    Ones are Green TOPS PN :0280 150 558 which flow 440cc @ 3 bar these are FORD injectors



    The others are the GREEN GIANTS PN: 0 280 155 968  which flow 415cc @ 3 bar



    The confusion comes from http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/Bosch_42lb_440cc_Green_Giant_High_Impedance_Injector-256-4.html 


    Listing both :
    Bosch 0 280 155 968 ( 0280155968 )
    Bosch 0 280 150 558 ( 0280150558 )

    as reference numbers.


    Now when we do the calculations for the VOLVO green giants they are 415 cc @ 3bar , 465cc at 3.8 bar and 478cc @ 4 bar. It all makes sense now:

    Use http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php for the calculations. When you do it this way it makes sense and it corresponds with flow testing done at a shop for the Volvo Green giants which flows around 415-420CC at 3 bar. :)

    I hope this helps.


    I suggest the M4.4 wiki is updated too.