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Everything posted by MadeInJapan

  1. Added a Racing Beat Sway bar (27mm) and new beefy end links to my '07 AWD T5 MT S40!
  2. Just bought an '07 S40 AWD 6speed Manual that is sweet- tons of upgrades mostly done by Heico as well as tuned turbo w/ Stage 1 kit.  The car only had 67,000 miles and I couldn't pass it up.  My son also bought an '07 V70 2.5T and is excited about that.  His 850 died last week when it decided to spew its oil out of #5 intake valve on the highway so it's wasn't worth repairing. 

  3. Thanks Keaton- I'm just basically lazy and don't need the extra space plus my car is 240K and I do mostly city driving now- job and back and a little around town. At my age (55 next month), I'm not going for the 0-60 in 6 seconds anymore. LOL. I think I'll just remove the line from the solenoid and cap that spot on the vacuum tree and put duct tape around the inlet to the air box from the SAS pump and call it a day. That sounds simple enough! One day I'll need to fix the vacuum leak under the battery that is keeping my cruise control from working and I might find a reason for wanting more space down there. At that time I will probably work on deleting the whole thing.
  4. So, I did the delete last night on my '98 S70 T5 by soldering a diode between A32 and A37 (not A33 to A38 which almost got me to do it wrong from the YouTube video and I'd bet the reason for other's having codes now). The SAS pump had been screeching and I knew it would go soon. After the delete I also unplugged the power to the SAS pump Everything is working as described since the delete I am leaving the air pump as is. I have not pulled off any vacuum lines. My question is, is pulling off the hoses and capping them really necessary? I might get a smidgen more boost? What real benefit will that get me? The car should act as if it did when the air pump wasn't running right? I might get a smidgen more boost or is there something else? I have an IPD upgraded T5 ECU BTW.... You're input is appreciated- I'm trying not to over-think this thing as many have already done here.
  5. MadeInJapan

    850 Wiper Linkage

    Here is the setting/adjustment for the wiper linkage (also known as the transmission or "frame") to make sure your wiper blades actually work if you forgot to mark the linkage arms when you replace your motor.
  6. Would appreciate it- paypal?

  7. Hey thanks for your comments! Sorry but I haven't been very active on the forums lately.

  8. Hey thanks! I haven't been very active on the forums lately.

  9. Full edit....why? Because I'm a member again... My member thanks you!
  10. +1 for you Tx Heat...I'm in your age group too....46 here. I won't go out and buy that $3000 bolt on kit either. My family's just normal people if you know what I mean. I have a teenager that costs money. We do have 2 Volvo's but that's because I can afford them if I do most of our maitenance myself. Upgrades happen slowly around here....but they do happen.
  11. Depending on the GB price, I'm interested in the P2 rear's now. Others are all HD ipd and replaced a few months ago so I'm good for now. As soon as those go I'll buy Slater's too even if the GB price is not in effect anymore. I'm talking about for both of our cars.
  12. GLT....I see the exhaust mod in your no ECU upgrade right? How many total miles? Can we see a pic of the fabbed cold air intake? May have a potential customer near me, but in TN....any ideas on shipping to TN?
  13. You could have a pinched line to the gauge. When I first installed mine it would do this. After I shut the car off and tapped on the side of the gauge it "zeroed up." I figured it was pinched and keeping some air in the line. So I took the gauge out of the pod and found that in attaching the pod, I had pinched the line. Got the line out of the way and clear and my problem was solved.
  14. I would suspect a sticking service or serpentine belt tensioner. The A/C sompressor coming on is just enough to make it move and clunk. You can see it at work, so have someone start the car and turn the A/C on as you watch the tensioner and see if you see it move abruptly.
  15. It's in the pinned thread section. In the middle of the page, here:
  16. I had this anoying buzzing (rattle?) sound coming from what I though was the dash...terrible trouble trying to pin it down. Had my son ride with me and we finally found it. It ended up being the plastic housing around the reading light/rear view mirror. Took it loose, put electrician's tape on the sunroof motor and rubber washers around the screws holding the housing in place and the buzzing sound is gone. Strange, but I never thought to look up that high and it sure sounded like it was coming from the dash. If you drive down the road and the buzzing starts, try holding up on the housing I mentioned and see if the buzzing goes away. The buzzing in my case was vibrations on the housing against the components underneath it.
  17. I've been a proponent of this for awhile and have posted it evey chance I get, but no one seems to take me seriously: ADD to STAGE-0, PCV SYSTEM REPLACEMENT.
  18. Have you guys seen this? In Swedish but with English scribblings to help. Drill a drain hole in the angle gear so you don't have to pump, but simply drain. When you hit the link below, click on "Download for free with FileFactory Basic" and that will take you to a second page where you click on "Click here to begin your download."
  19. OKay, I ended this attempt at a group buy...not enough interest. If you still want the Draper Tool for a substantial savings ($66-67 to your door), then IM me or email me.
  20. I'm not sure if it's going to be as easy as you say. Like I mentioned in one of the above posts, there are only 3 pins used, but there's also a memory chip (ATMEL AT89S52-24JI, an 8bit microconroller with 8K bytes of flash and 256K of RAM memory) inside the Draper and some other small electronics. It appears that some type of "flashing" from that memory piece to the ECU has to go on to clear this code. Here is a picture of the insides of the Draper. Below it, please also find the pin configuration marked with red spots as to which pins are used: Further, I found this from the ATMEL company...very specific specs and info about the chip used in the Draper:;part_id=1918
  21. Thanks for your kinds words! I'm still on summer break so I have the time to "waste time" right now doing searches, etc. on the web and it's been fun finding new things. I wish you could find a simple way to reset the service light, or even to read the ECC and other hidden Volvo systems with a tool. Why don't you buy a Draper tool and take it apart and see what's inside. Maybe if you're good with electronics, you can figure out how they do it. It unscrews and pops into 2 parts with only 4 screws. I will tell you that only 3 wires are used for the reset.
  22. I took my Draper tool apart and found wires only connected to 3 pins, but there's a bunch of stuff inbetween...even a memory chip of some sort so it's more complicated than just putting a few wires together with a bulb in the middle. I've read the post you refer to here as well...not the same stuff. Not even close.