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Subwoofer Picking Up Engine Noise


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#21 calvin

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Posted 07 October 2004 - 12:12 PM

QUOTE(tboyko @ Oct 7 2004, 04:28 AM)
i have the same problem with whine, and have followed the instructions of hooking up an external source of music to figure out what is wrong.  turns out the problem is at my HU, at least I can connect my ipod to my RCAs right next to the HU and there is no problem.  I'm thinking that the HU needs a new ground cable run to it? does this seem right? If i do this, where should I ground it? to the negative battery terminal?  This seems like a huge hassle.  Does the positive terminal also need to be rerun? What about the ignition power cable (yellow)?
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Usually the yellow is +Battery and red is ignition..
At least that's been the standard for years so unless you HU is rather old check that first



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Posted 07 October 2004 - 04:04 PM

QUOTE(calvin @ Oct 7 2004, 12:12 PM)
QUOTE(tboyko @ Oct 7 2004, 04:28 AM)
i have the same problem with whine, and have followed the instructions of hooking up an external source of music to figure out what is wrong.  turns out the problem is at my HU, at least I can connect my ipod to my RCAs right next to the HU and there is no problem.  I'm thinking that the HU needs a new ground cable run to it? does this seem right? If i do this, where should I ground it? to the negative battery terminal?  This seems like a huge hassle.  Does the positive terminal also need to be rerun? What about the ignition power cable (yellow)?
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Usually the yellow is +Battery and red is ignition..
At least that's been the standard for years so unless you HU is rather old check that first
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I'm sorry, I just got the convention backwards.....


So, where should I ground my HU? my amp in back is obviously grounded to the rear chassis, are you suggesting I run a grounding wire to the back of the car???

#23 Guest_Guest_*

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Posted 07 October 2004 - 05:05 PM

the volvo harness should already have a ground.

#24 Guest_Guest_*

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Posted 07 October 2004 - 06:55 PM

QUOTE(Guest @ Oct 7 2004, 05:05 PM)
the volvo harness should already have a ground.
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read above before posting, the existing ground might not be good enough, so a new one is being wired.

#25 wattsat

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Posted 07 October 2004 - 08:13 PM

Do you have a Volt Meter / Multimeter?

If you don't, borrow or buy one. You will end up using it more often than you think.

Disconnect the harness from the back of your HU. Check the Voltage going between the constant Hot (Yellow) and your ground. With the engine off you should see ~11 Volts. Then check with the engine running. You should see ~12-14 Volts. If you only see less than 10 volts at any time then you have a bad ground or bad power.

With the car on, also check the voltage from the Red wire to the Ground.

You can ground your HU to any bare piece of metal attached to the Chassis of the car. A bare piece of the Chassis is better. Generally the factory Ground will be sufficient unless it is somehow damaged.

I had a problem once where I had my car in for warranty service and they disconnected the 4awg Ground cable going to my power distribution for the front amp. Took me forever to find out why the amp would not turn on beacuse all of the connections on the amp were good. It wasn't until I hooked up the volt meter and determined that Hot to Ground was reading less than 5 Volts and Hot to Chassis was reading ~12 that I realized what they did. Re-attached the Ground and woila, worked great.

#26 bogelo

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 06:30 AM

QUOTE(calvin @ Oct 7 2004, 06:05 AM)
You want all your grounds to be in one location ... by putting them elsewhere is how a ground loop is created

Balanced cables arent to stop noise.. they are a impedance balanced set of cables to setup a 'balanced' input level from your HU to your amplifier
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You don't want all your ground to be in one location. Putting them together makes a ground loop since electrical components are needing ground at the same time. Well, it is still a mystery on that part. Put new ground on new location for every amp you have.

Balanced cables are to stop noise because of the interference from power cables. In other words, if you use balanced cables you can run it along with the power cables without getting any interference.

Go to zapco website and download their amplifier manual. It should says something about their balanced system: "symbilink". You can read it from there.

Edited by bogelo, 09 October 2004 - 06:33 AM.

user posted imageuser posted image

YOU -> user posted imageuser posted image <- ME

95 850 Turbo - white brick
Mods: Greddy Profec B spec I EBC, Samco turbo hoses kit, Blitz DTT DC-II, Euro-spec headlight, Optima Red Top battery.
Audio: Clarion VRX610 headunit, Clarion DPH7500z DSP, Clarion CDC1255z 12-CD changer, McIntosh MC440, Zapco AG200, Nakamichi SP-S522 component speakers, Infinity reference 2-way speakers, nakamichi SP-W12 subwoofer, Phoenix Gold 4-Ga multi amplifier cable kit.

94 850 wagon - green brick
Mods: 8000K HID

#27 bogelo

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 06:35 AM

QUOTE(wattsat @ Oct 7 2004, 02:13 PM)
Disconnect the harness from the back of your HU.  Check the Voltage going between the constant Hot (Yellow) and your ground.  With the engine off you should see ~11 Volts.  Then check with the engine running.  You should see ~12-14 Volts.  If you only see less than 10 volts at any time then you have a bad ground or bad power.


Second to that
user posted imageuser posted image

YOU -> user posted imageuser posted image <- ME

95 850 Turbo - white brick
Mods: Greddy Profec B spec I EBC, Samco turbo hoses kit, Blitz DTT DC-II, Euro-spec headlight, Optima Red Top battery.
Audio: Clarion VRX610 headunit, Clarion DPH7500z DSP, Clarion CDC1255z 12-CD changer, McIntosh MC440, Zapco AG200, Nakamichi SP-S522 component speakers, Infinity reference 2-way speakers, nakamichi SP-W12 subwoofer, Phoenix Gold 4-Ga multi amplifier cable kit.

94 850 wagon - green brick
Mods: 8000K HID

#28 calvin

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 02:06 PM

I don't know who gave you your information bogelo, but it's simply wrong.

You don't have to beleive me, do a simple search... matter of fact I'll do one for you ...http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/index.html

Balanced cables are to setup a balanced signal path to an amplifier, not to stop noise. If you're going to give out information, you should make sure it's correct.

#29 bogelo

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 05:41 PM

QUOTE(calvin @ Oct 9 2004, 08:06 AM)
I don't know who gave you your information bogelo, but it's simply wrong.

You don't have to beleive me, do a simple search... matter of fact I'll do one for you  ...http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/index.html

Balanced cables are to setup a balanced signal path to an amplifier, not to stop noise. If you're going to give out information, you should make sure it's correct.
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http://www.bcae1.com/ballndrv.htm
http://www.milbert.com/alternatorwhine/index.bdc

I guess the car-amplifier-maker' website is a reputable source (www.milbert.com).

Well, there are many more websites that have the same idea with me. If you've tried it then you know what I am talking about.

If you still believe what you said, then believe it. It's pointless to argue.

This is from the my Zapco AG-200 amplifier manual:

Edited by bogelo, 09 October 2004 - 05:49 PM.

user posted imageuser posted image

YOU -> user posted imageuser posted image <- ME

95 850 Turbo - white brick
Mods: Greddy Profec B spec I EBC, Samco turbo hoses kit, Blitz DTT DC-II, Euro-spec headlight, Optima Red Top battery.
Audio: Clarion VRX610 headunit, Clarion DPH7500z DSP, Clarion CDC1255z 12-CD changer, McIntosh MC440, Zapco AG200, Nakamichi SP-S522 component speakers, Infinity reference 2-way speakers, nakamichi SP-W12 subwoofer, Phoenix Gold 4-Ga multi amplifier cable kit.

94 850 wagon - green brick
Mods: 8000K HID




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