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Plea For Help: Engine Whine In 4ch Amp


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#41 The Reverend

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Posted 17 October 2004 - 07:12 AM

Lol,

Of course i make a math error right after I am done with calculus smile.gif

I should have said it has 138% of the surface area of the single twelve instead of 138% more. Multiply the area of the 12 by 1.38 and you will get appr. the area of the 10s
same as saying that the 12 has 72% of the surface area of the 10's

The point I was making is that if you want more output, one of the ways you can do this is by moving more air. You said that 2 10's are equal to one 12. One way to move more air is to add more surface area, AKA adding more drivers. If a 12 has less surface area than 2 10's, then it theoretically moves less air than the 10's.

Yeah

Colin
1996 850 N/A
The only upgrade is my stereo.
She said I was living too much in '82.
HU: Alpine CDA 9825
Amplifier: Kicker KX 600.4
Front Stage: Crystal CSX 615 in Kicks (by Bing)
Rear Stage: Nothing.
Subs: 2 Crystal Pro Se 10" subs in a sealed enclosure



#42 bogelo

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Posted 17 October 2004 - 03:49 PM

QUOTE(The Reverend @ Oct 17 2004, 01:12 AM)
The point I was making is that if you want more output, one of the ways you can do this is by moving more air. You said that 2 10's are equal to one 12. One way to move more air is to add more surface area, AKA adding more drivers. If a 12 has less surface area than 2 10's, then it theoretically moves less air than the 10's.


I didn't say 1 12" = 2 10" smile.gif
I said 1 12" != 2 10"

Edited by bogelo, 17 October 2004 - 03:50 PM.

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95 850 Turbo - white brick
Mods: Greddy Profec B spec I EBC, Samco turbo hoses kit, Blitz DTT DC-II, Euro-spec headlight, Optima Red Top battery.
Audio: Clarion VRX610 headunit, Clarion DPH7500z DSP, Clarion CDC1255z 12-CD changer, McIntosh MC440, Zapco AG200, Nakamichi SP-S522 component speakers, Infinity reference 2-way speakers, nakamichi SP-W12 subwoofer, Phoenix Gold 4-Ga multi amplifier cable kit.

94 850 wagon - green brick
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#43 The Reverend

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Posted 17 October 2004 - 05:29 PM

Does that mean that 2 10s are not equal to 1 12?

ohmy.gif
1996 850 N/A
The only upgrade is my stereo.
She said I was living too much in '82.
HU: Alpine CDA 9825
Amplifier: Kicker KX 600.4
Front Stage: Crystal CSX 615 in Kicks (by Bing)
Rear Stage: Nothing.
Subs: 2 Crystal Pro Se 10" subs in a sealed enclosure

#44 bogelo

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Posted 17 October 2004 - 06:44 PM

QUOTE(The Reverend @ Oct 17 2004, 11:29 AM)
Does that mean that 2 10s are not equal to 1 12?

ohmy.gif
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! -> not
= -> equal
!= -> not equal
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YOU -> user posted imageuser posted image <- ME

95 850 Turbo - white brick
Mods: Greddy Profec B spec I EBC, Samco turbo hoses kit, Blitz DTT DC-II, Euro-spec headlight, Optima Red Top battery.
Audio: Clarion VRX610 headunit, Clarion DPH7500z DSP, Clarion CDC1255z 12-CD changer, McIntosh MC440, Zapco AG200, Nakamichi SP-S522 component speakers, Infinity reference 2-way speakers, nakamichi SP-W12 subwoofer, Phoenix Gold 4-Ga multi amplifier cable kit.

94 850 wagon - green brick
Mods: 8000K HID

#45 tboyko

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Posted 18 October 2004 - 04:49 AM

Ok, so what differences will i notice between two 10s and two 12s? I would expect a difference in the smoothness or responsiveness of the sound?

I basically am looking at getting one 12", two 10s, or two 12s, a box, and an amp. i really want to get a good deal and not necissarily have to go buy each component seperately. Anyone have any ideas how I can aquire a premade type of setup, maybe preowned? I guess the newspapers are a good place to start...

How much power do I generally need for a single 12 or 10? Right now I have a 50Wx4 in the trunk for my front components and my rear coaxials but i would obviously need a new amp for just a sub or two. The thing is, I laid down a 4 gauge power wire so that I could put a sub amp on it without having to rewire (my other amp only requires an 8 gauge). Does that give me enough diameter to pull off another amp? I would think I would need a distribution block...
1996 850 GLT

#46 bogelo

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Posted 19 October 2004 - 02:51 AM

QUOTE(tboyko @ Oct 17 2004, 10:49 PM)
Ok, so what differences will i notice between two 10s and two 12s?  I would expect a difference in the smoothness or responsiveness of the sound? 

I basically am looking at getting one 12", two 10s, or two 12s, a box, and an amp.  i really want to get a good deal and not necissarily have to go buy each component seperately.  Anyone have any ideas how I can aquire a premade type of setup, maybe preowned?  I guess the newspapers are a good place to start...

How much power do I generally need for a single 12 or 10?  Right now I have a 50Wx4 in the trunk for my front components and my rear coaxials but i would obviously need a new amp for just a sub or two.  The thing is, I laid down a 4 gauge power wire so that I could put a sub amp on it without having to rewire (my other amp only requires an 8 gauge).  Does that give me enough diameter to pull off another amp?  I would think I would need a distribution block...
View Post


12" are able to pick up lower frequency compared to 10". Responsiveness depends on your box and the sub itself.

And yes, you will need a distribution block to split it into 2 8Ga (only High current amp needs 4Ga cable).

What kind of price range are you looking for?
If you want a good sound & reliability for a used amp with a little higher price, try these amps:
- lanzar optidrive
- PPI PC series (Power Class)/Art series
- Rockford trans-ana
- Phoenix Gold MS/ZX/Ti
- Soundstream Reference series/USA series
- Xtant
- a/d/s PQ/PH (small wattage, but underrated)
- Zapco AG series/reference series

Some good subs (for good sound, try DVC):
- xtant X-series
- a/d/s rs
- JL W0/W3
- Infinity reference/Kappa

or these subs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5726132667&rd=1
You can power these subs with a good 2-ch amp (total of between 200watts - 400watts RMS) to power these 2 subs without any problem (all the good amps are mentioned above).

Edited by bogelo, 19 October 2004 - 03:00 AM.

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95 850 Turbo - white brick
Mods: Greddy Profec B spec I EBC, Samco turbo hoses kit, Blitz DTT DC-II, Euro-spec headlight, Optima Red Top battery.
Audio: Clarion VRX610 headunit, Clarion DPH7500z DSP, Clarion CDC1255z 12-CD changer, McIntosh MC440, Zapco AG200, Nakamichi SP-S522 component speakers, Infinity reference 2-way speakers, nakamichi SP-W12 subwoofer, Phoenix Gold 4-Ga multi amplifier cable kit.

94 850 wagon - green brick
Mods: 8000K HID

#47 tboyko

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Posted 20 October 2004 - 01:30 AM

My friend just purchased two 12" JLs in a box with a 600-800W amp on the back, not sure what kind, maybe a pioneer or something? Anyways, he paid $110, and granted a friend did hook him up with his old stuff, that's why it was so cheap, I still want to find a sweet deal like this. I guess i just need to keep my eyes open and not be too selective :/

and another question I am very curious about... I have two 5x7 infinity kappas on the rear deck and basically what I did to fit them back there is cut out a lot of plastic from the existing volvo deck mount boxes. I'm thinking though that I'm not getting very good sound from the speakers because they aren't really enclosed (the magnet hangs out to the trunk). Should I have some custom made little boxes to sit these guys in or will I not really notice a difference in quality? I was thinking I might get better, tighter bass with boxes.

of course i'm a lover of stock and low profile audio systems...so getting some decent boxes made that i was happy with might be a hassle...

thanks for any input...
1996 850 GLT

#48 bogelo

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Posted 20 October 2004 - 03:35 AM

QUOTE(tboyko @ Oct 19 2004, 07:30 PM)
My friend just purchased two 12" JLs in a box with a 600-800W amp on the back, not sure what kind, maybe a pioneer or something?  Anyways, he paid $110, and granted a friend did hook him up with his old stuff, that's why it was so cheap, I still want to find a sweet deal like this.  I guess i just need to keep my eyes open and not be too selective :/

and another question I am very curious about... I have two 5x7 infinity kappas on the rear deck and basically what I did to fit them back there is cut out a lot of plastic from the existing volvo deck mount boxes.  I'm thinking though that I'm not getting very good sound from the speakers because they aren't really enclosed (the magnet hangs out to the trunk).  Should I have some custom made little boxes to sit these guys in or will I not really notice a difference in quality?  I was thinking I might get better, tighter bass with boxes.

of course i'm a lover of stock and low profile audio systems...so getting some decent boxes made that i was happy with might be a hassle...

thanks for any input...
View Post


JLs are good sub, $110 is a really good deal. But if you have an "over-rated" amp (such as: pioneer, kenwood, etc) to power up "under-rated" sub (such as: JLs,etc), the chances of thr amp blowing up is very high. Well, I learned from my mistakes (better spend a little more money now than spend it double next time).

You can make your 5x7 rear deck as your sub and it should sound very good (need custom box though, 6x9 is preferable). You can use your current 4-ch amp for 4 doors and buy another small amp to power up the 5x7 or 6x9 cool.gif .

Edited by bogelo, 20 October 2004 - 03:36 AM.

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YOU -> user posted imageuser posted image <- ME

95 850 Turbo - white brick
Mods: Greddy Profec B spec I EBC, Samco turbo hoses kit, Blitz DTT DC-II, Euro-spec headlight, Optima Red Top battery.
Audio: Clarion VRX610 headunit, Clarion DPH7500z DSP, Clarion CDC1255z 12-CD changer, McIntosh MC440, Zapco AG200, Nakamichi SP-S522 component speakers, Infinity reference 2-way speakers, nakamichi SP-W12 subwoofer, Phoenix Gold 4-Ga multi amplifier cable kit.

94 850 wagon - green brick
Mods: 8000K HID

#49 tboyko

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Posted 20 October 2004 - 07:24 AM

So are you saying if I set my front components to high pass and my rears to no pass at all and put the 5x7s in two little boxes, i might not even need a sub? Or are you saying set my 5x7s on low pass? I don't want to buy any more speakers besides a sub if that's what it comes to...
1996 850 GLT

#50 jroot

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Posted 20 October 2004 - 08:18 PM

One 12" is good enough for me. It's just personal preferences most of the time...plus I wanted to spare my trunk space (sedan).

But I also have almost my entire car sound proof with dampening material, so that probably helps a lot.
1998 S70 T5

#51 wattsat

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Posted 20 October 2004 - 09:15 PM

QUOTE
I have two 5x7 infinity kappas on the rear deck


If you are going to have a Sub in the trunk, Ditch the rear deck speakers.

If you are able to build a good sealed box for each deck speaker then keeping them becomes an option.

Otherwise you will have problems with the sub interfering with the deck speakers. A good sub moves alot of air and will overpower the 5x7's making them sound like crap.

#52 theunderlord

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Posted 20 October 2004 - 09:18 PM

QUOTE(wattsat @ Oct 20 2004, 02:15 PM)
QUOTE
I have two 5x7 infinity kappas on the rear deck


If you are going to have a Sub in the trunk, Ditch the rear deck speakers.

If you are able to build a good sealed box for each deck speaker then keeping them becomes an option.

Otherwise you will have problems with the sub interfering with the deck speakers. A good sub moves alot of air and will overpower the 5x7's making them sound like crap.
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he speaks the truth... no need for rear decks...
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#53 tboyko

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Posted 21 October 2004 - 06:53 PM

What if i put the back deck speakers on high pass and install a sub?

if i decided to take out the deck speakers, would my current amp, an MTX Thunder404 (50Wx4) be able to power my front speakers and a sub (so essentially use the rear two speaker hookups to bridge the sub)?

final question...if I put my rear deck speakers in a box, do you think they would perform a ton better? and where could I buy or have a box like this made so it matched the back deck (black material)...?
1996 850 GLT

#54 wattsat

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Posted 21 October 2004 - 07:45 PM

QUOTE
What if i put the back deck speakers on high pass and install a sub?

if i decided to take out the deck speakers, would my current amp, an MTX Thunder404 (50Wx4) be able to power my front speakers and a sub (so essentially use the rear two speaker hookups to bridge the sub)?


I tried that in my Maxima and thinking back, I should have just removed them.

I would first try running 2 Channels to your fronts and mono your other two channels for the sub. Go from there.

#55 bogelo

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 01:20 AM

What if i put the back deck speakers on high pass and install a sub?
- I think it's okay if you don't play a lot of bass.

if i decided to take out the deck speakers, would my current amp, an MTX Thunder404 (50Wx4) be able to power my front speakers and a sub (so essentially use the rear two speaker hookups to bridge the sub)?
- Depends, If your amplifier is capable of running 2 Ohm then you can do it. 2 channels are powering up 4 "vocal" speakers (each 4 Ohm), must be connected in parallel to become 2 Ohm. The other 2 channels are bridged for a sub. But lower impedance means more distortion, it also means you gonna get lower quality sound.

final question...if I put my rear deck speakers in a box, do you think they would perform a ton better? and where could I buy or have a box like this made so it matched the back deck (black material)...?
- If you put your rear deck speakers in sealed boxes, they would perform much much much better. Here is a question for you, Why home stereo sounds much better than car stereo?

Edited by bogelo, 28 October 2004 - 01:24 AM.

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YOU -> user posted imageuser posted image <- ME

95 850 Turbo - white brick
Mods: Greddy Profec B spec I EBC, Samco turbo hoses kit, Blitz DTT DC-II, Euro-spec headlight, Optima Red Top battery.
Audio: Clarion VRX610 headunit, Clarion DPH7500z DSP, Clarion CDC1255z 12-CD changer, McIntosh MC440, Zapco AG200, Nakamichi SP-S522 component speakers, Infinity reference 2-way speakers, nakamichi SP-W12 subwoofer, Phoenix Gold 4-Ga multi amplifier cable kit.

94 850 wagon - green brick
Mods: 8000K HID




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