Brake Question
Started by hi. my name is AJ, Sep 26 2008 05:18 AM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 26 September 2008 - 05:18 AM
so i was on my way home from school. and then there was this civic si..... (what happened is censored in fear of getting banned)....
but here's the problem: as i was braking (hard) after the *cough* incident, my steering wheel started shaking like a mo-fo and my brakes felt like they were fading fast, accompanied by an annoying whistle-screeching sound.
so what happened? and how can i fix it?
brakes are stock.
but here's the problem: as i was braking (hard) after the *cough* incident, my steering wheel started shaking like a mo-fo and my brakes felt like they were fading fast, accompanied by an annoying whistle-screeching sound.
so what happened? and how can i fix it?
brakes are stock.
#2
Posted 26 September 2008 - 05:24 AM
QUOTE (hi. my name is AJ @ Sep 26 2008, 01:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
so i was on my way home from school. and then there was this civic si..... (what happened is censored in fear of getting banned)....
but here's the problem: as i was braking (hard) after the *cough* incident, my steering wheel started shaking like a mo-fo and my brakes felt like they were fading fast, accompanied by an annoying whistle-screeching sound.
so what happened? and how can i fix it?
brakes are stock.
but here's the problem: as i was braking (hard) after the *cough* incident, my steering wheel started shaking like a mo-fo and my brakes felt like they were fading fast, accompanied by an annoying whistle-screeching sound.
so what happened? and how can i fix it?
brakes are stock.
how old are the brakes? sounds like thickness variation in the rotors and heat fade due to thin rotors. the friction coefficient decreases a lot when your rotors overheat. sounds like a simple brake job would be cure what ails you.
then, stop street racing and you won't come across this problem more than you have to.
Jake

1998 Volvo S70 T5M 183k
1998 Volvo S70 T5M 183k
#3
Posted 26 September 2008 - 01:44 PM
New rotors and new pads. Yours are warped... you could try new pads but I'd say screw that. Just get some new rotors and pads on there, you can do it yourself... only takes a couple hours at most.
Oh and chances are you boiled your brake fluid, get it flushed and some fresh fluid in there.
Oh and chances are you boiled your brake fluid, get it flushed and some fresh fluid in there.
Edited by JHEIII874T5M, 26 September 2008 - 01:45 PM.
Joseph H. Essaye III
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!
#4
Posted 26 September 2008 - 02:18 PM
man DD, bustin balls huh?
my 854T5 with a nice list of mods was totaled by a dumb girl driver :(
1991 780TIC-RARE!-named "roxanne" by the GF.-more pressure-less restrictions-plenty of suspension bits to come!
1991 780TIC-RARE!-named "roxanne" by the GF.-more pressure-less restrictions-plenty of suspension bits to come!
#5
Posted 26 September 2008 - 10:06 PM
QUOTE (DonutsDemise @ Sep 25 2008, 10:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
how old are the brakes? sounds like thickness variation in the rotors and heat fade due to thin rotors. the friction coefficient decreases a lot when your rotors overheat. sounds like a simple brake job would be cure what ails you.
then, stop street racing and you won't come across this problem more than you have to.
then, stop street racing and you won't come across this problem more than you have to.
i never said i was street racing.
but thanks for the advice.
and don't act like you've never gone over the speed limit, lol.
and thanks to Joseph for the excellent response!!
#6
Posted 26 September 2008 - 10:13 PM
QUOTE (hi. my name is AJ @ Sep 26 2008, 06:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i never said i was street racing.
but thanks for the advice.
and don't act like you've never gone over the speed limit, lol.
and thanks to Joseph for the excellent response!!
but thanks for the advice.
and don't act like you've never gone over the speed limit, lol.
and thanks to Joseph for the excellent response!!
next to another car accelerating at WOT... no. on the highway cruising alone, yes
Jake

1998 Volvo S70 T5M 183k
1998 Volvo S70 T5M 183k
#7
Posted 27 September 2008 - 11:35 PM
QUOTE (hi. my name is AJ @ Sep 26 2008, 03:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i never said i was street racing.
but thanks for the advice.
and don't act like you've never gone over the speed limit, lol.
and thanks to Joseph for the excellent response!!
If you get Cryo treated Rotors, you'll never have to worry about warpage again, and they will last 3 to 4 times as long!
but thanks for the advice.
and don't act like you've never gone over the speed limit, lol.
and thanks to Joseph for the excellent response!!
If you get Cryo treated Rotors, you'll never have to worry about warpage again, and they will last 3 to 4 times as long!
'98 V70 T5 (Auto) At 280,000 fresh rebuild with port and polish ;Cryo treated everything, IPD Stage III w/ IPD Intercooler and TME cat back exhaust,Koni FSD/ Eibach springs, IPD sways F/R, IPD HDEndlinks, IPD BBK; Slide Show of build: http://rides.webshot...563883893OGxoym '96 965 A sweat find with 30K miles on it! http://rides.webshot...myd?vhost=rides
#8
Posted 28 September 2008 - 12:02 AM
technically, the rotors don't warp. they get glazed or begin to have thickness variation.
Jake

1998 Volvo S70 T5M 183k
1998 Volvo S70 T5M 183k
#9
Posted 28 September 2008 - 02:10 AM
QUOTE (DonutsDemise @ Sep 27 2008, 08:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
technically, the rotors don't warp. they get glazed or begin to have thickness variation.
They can develop thickness variation because they're warped (lateral runout). This wiki page describes various causes quite well.
20 years ago, we used to cut "warped" rotors routinely to true them, now they're so cheap, there's really no point.

1998 V70 XR M66 PTE6262 BB Built '04 2.3l Block '03 Ported Head EnemY21Cams TurboTuner 710cc Inj, 3" DP back Dual Magnaflow 14834's May 2011 355WHP(@6400rpm) 347WTq(@4400rpm)@22psi Now with LGSpeed Header & Custom Intake Manifold! BIG 31x12x3"FMIC
#10
Posted 29 September 2008 - 03:40 PM
QUOTE (lookforjoe @ Sep 27 2008, 07:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
They can develop thickness variation because they're warped (lateral runout). This wiki page describes various causes quite well.
20 years ago, we used to cut "warped" rotors routinely to true them, now they're so cheap, there's really no point.
20 years ago, we used to cut "warped" rotors routinely to true them, now they're so cheap, there's really no point.
tight, so any rotor recommendations?
#11
Posted 29 September 2008 - 03:56 PM
ebay - raceconcepts
Joseph H. Essaye III
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!
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