27 replies to this topic

[theunderlord]

Ok, while searching for gauges to fill my new triple pod... I came across the following, an Electric Boost Gauge. Autometer # 4377 Here's the link to the instructions;
Instructions

What do you guys think? Is there an advantage of this over the traditional mechanical boost gauge? It's $189.99 from Summit. The #4301 Gauge is only $44.95 from Summit.

Oh, and also... I have a GLT right now, but the 16T is in my near future of mods.. what gauge should I get? The 20 PSI max gauge? Thanks guys.

So far I'm set on Boost, Trans Temp, but I'm on the fence about the 3rd gauge.. any thoughts? Suggest something other than an AF gauge.

Edited by '98S70R, 23 October 2004 - 09:37 PM.

[turbor850]

EGT guage ? ? ?

[theunderlord]

EGT guage ? ? ?

That was definately one I was thinkin about....

[jross]

EGT is good.. but make sure you don't accidentally install as TOT (don't think that's quite as useful)

Definitely go mechanical, electronic ones are nowhere near as good (for the most part).

[Ping138]

Electronic boost gauges are far superior, in every way except ease of install, and here the difference is nominal, electronic boost gauges are better for a great many reasons, but really logical for one, if manual was better why wouldn't the cars come with them? further why do all the huge hp cars in the world use electronics? trust electronic is way better, i suggest a greddy profec spec 1 or if you want a really good one the world electronics TBC-1. All current automobiles with turbo's use integrated electronic boost controllers, in the form of a MAP sensor that controls a wastegate by way of an ECU. Becareful if you go electronic as some unit require a seperate MAP sensor.

[jross]

Electronic boost gauges are far superior, in every way except ease of install, and here the difference is nominal, electronic boost gauges are better for a great many reasons, but really logical for one, if manual was better why wouldn't the cars come with them? further why do all the huge hp cars in the world use electronics? trust electronic is way better, i suggest a greddy profec spec 1 or if you want a really good one the world electronics TBC-1.  All current automobiles with turbo's use integrated electronic boost controllers, in the form of a MAP sensor that controls a wastegate by way of an ECU. Becareful if you go electronic as some unit require a seperate MAP sensor.

I think it depends on where you draw the electrical/mechanical line. The high-end electric units are good, but from what I've heard/seen, the lower end ones are crap.


(Oh, and for reference: all the Volvo turbo applications use a MAF, not a MAP, sensor.)

Edited by jross, 24 October 2004 - 12:29 AM.

[Ping138]

Generic term forgive me I deal with more than just volvo tuning, but okay, and yes you are right, the summit 150 dollar electronic may not be as good but the greddy i mentioned is great and fairly affordable, but almost all are way better than a manual unit.

[theunderlord]

but almost all are way better than a manual unit.

How So? Explain.

[S70 R]

the 3rd one just be oil psi, or oil temp. but air/ fuel is important!. to bad your tubro timer sucks and dosent tell you air/fuel

[Ping138]

In short the electronic units are easier to set and conrol, and they are far more accurate, and safe, also they generally hold boost better and graduate to opening of the wastegate via the MAF better than their manual counterparts. They piggyback into the cars ECU and this is safer and more effective than just manually tricking the car's MAF

[jross]

In short the electronic units are easier to set and conrol, and they are far more accurate, and safe, also they generally hold boost better and graduate to opening of the wastegate via the MAF better than their manual counterparts. They piggyback into the cars ECU and this is safer and more effective than just manually tricking the car's MAF

Ah, we're not talking about boost controllers... we're talking about gauges to monitor boost. Sounds like you're talking about boost controllers...

[theunderlord]

In short the electronic units are easier to set and conrol, and they are far more accurate, and safe, also they generally hold boost better and graduate to opening of the wastegate via the MAF better than their manual counterparts. They piggyback into the cars ECU and this is safer and more effective than just manually tricking the car's MAF

Ah, we're not talking about boost controllers... we're talking about gauges to monitor boost. Sounds like you're talking about boost controllers...

yes... I couldn't figure out what he was talking about....

[TorqueSteer]

For a GAUGE, not a boost controller, go with a completely analog, the only advantage of electronic is data logging and such. A manual gauge linked directly to the vaccum tree will give you the best and most accurate boost readings, plus there about 1/3 the price.

If were talking about boost controllers, a electronic boost controller will graduate the boost increase much better, giving the power a more linear feel rather than a sudden surge of boost. The controlled boost increase will be alot nicer to your rods at low rpms. But since a manual boost controller is 15-80 dollars rather than 300-400 dollars for a ebc, mbc is a good way to start, just be careful and modest with boost.

Edited by TorqueSteer, 24 October 2004 - 02:46 AM.

[theunderlord]

For a GAUGE, not a boost controller, go with a  completely analog, the only advantage of electronic is data logging and such. A manual gauge linked directly to the vaccum tree will give you the best and most accurate boost readings, plus there about 1/3 the price.

K, thanks. That's what I suspected. What 3 gauges are you running TSteer?

[TorqueSteer]

Lol right now i actually have 2 boost gauges and useless but pretty, narrow band a/f gauge.

Edited by TorqueSteer, 24 October 2004 - 02:48 AM.

[V Tuning 850]

Got a question about the IPD pods. I just got mine today, and I noticed it came with some sticky tape already attached to it. How well, does this hold onto the stock A-pillar?

Also I see some wiriring on my Autometer boost gauge, is it for the light? If so can I use any kind of wire to run it to a ground, and to a switch? My friend has speaker wire, would this work or no, and if so what should I use?

I must say the gauge fits nicely in the pod itsself, nice tight fit. Doesn't look like it will move or anything.

[TorqueSteer]

I wouldnt even bother with the sticky tape. Your best bet would be to fit it, make sure you push it all the way back, i made this mistake with mine. Then use a single screw to mount it onto the apillar.

Yes the wires are for the backlight. You can wire it to the headlight switch or the sunroof switch. This will connect the light to the rheostat (dimmer). For the ground, theres a screw near the hood latch, just unscrew it and place the ground wire firmly underneath the screw and then tighten it.

Edited by TorqueSteer, 24 October 2004 - 04:12 AM.

[V Tuning 850]

I wanna go as clean as possible, and a screww showing would be ugly in my mind.

[Ping138]

Wow i totally missed the boat on that one, the term mechanical threw me
i thought controllers right away, one more reason to think before you speak.
(Tom's face turns red) sorry for the confusion.

[Ping138]

In reguard to the GAUGE i agree with the analog call on this one. better, cheaper,
a little less Knight Rider.