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#1 volflo

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 03:14 PM

...i never figured out that maybe the best and most accurate dyno in Berlin was 50 yards from where i work.
(I dont have to tell you about different dynos getting up to 20% plus/minus on the very same car under compyryble conditions (german car mag "sport auto"))

But at Porsche they told me we could face problems with my car being FWD and perhaps not being able to deliver the power to those tubes.

Any guesses what numbers i will face?
How much % drive train loss will i have to bear in mind when calculating crank figures?

Edited by volflo, 25 October 2004 - 03:15 PM.

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#2 JCviggen

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 03:17 PM

I believe Johann said once about 12.5% drivetrain loss on our cars (on a dynamic dyno)

I reckon you should get a good 300WHP or so, a lot depends on the temperature and the airflow as you know...
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#3 volflo

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 03:23 PM

QUOTE(JCviggen @ Oct 25 2004, 09:17 AM)
I believe Johann said once about 12.5% drivetrain loss on our cars (on a dynamic dyno)

I reckon you should get a good 300WHP or so, a lot depends on the temperature and the airflow as you know...
View Post


i asked them i they would supply sufficient, but with a 993 Turbo S that stood there when i was there i believe they can...
they told it can deliver 7 cubicmeters of air in one minute. (not sure if he said minute, but probably yes)
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#4 JCviggen

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 03:24 PM

Yes that sounds pretty good! The rest is wait and see. Good luck wink.gif
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#5 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 03:27 PM

well, best of luck on the dyno and make sure to keep an eye on engine temps and keep a keen ear for any knock/detonation/pinging as driving on the road provides much more air than any fan
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#6 volflo

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 07:57 AM

Went on the Porsche Berlin site and they have photograph of their dyno.
Anybody know what it is/ if its good?


Edited by volflo, 27 October 2004 - 07:58 AM.

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#7 Johann

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 12:45 PM

QUOTE(volflo @ Oct 27 2004, 01:57 AM)
Went on the Porsche Berlin site and they have photograph of their dyno.
Anybody know what it is/ if its good?

View Post


Florian,

The projected numbers are for your own good to see how your car develops over time.
Just to bad you never arranged a baseline of your car before the changes. It would have been nice to monitor the progress.
Which dyno totally depends on the system you will be using and how to translate the numbers.
My Volvo's have always been dyno'd at RICA in the Netherlands on a MAHA chassis dyno.
This system can measure the performance of the car by creating a rolling resistance and in a way emulating road situations. This is a so called static dyno system.
There are several ways of testing the car this way. One is to search for maximum output under load at a fixed RPM. The other way is to pick multiple RPM points in a row where the car needs to keep it's RPM point while the load is increasing until power collapses, nice for searching the detonation/ignition retarding limits. Every time the test is completed you move to the next RPM point. At the end the computer can produce a nice graph with the corresponding numbers.
Downside of this test is the enormous amount of heat going in to the car...
A nearly identical test is to increase RPM at the edge of the power delivery of the car. The dyno system can see where the power doesn't develop anymore so it increases RPM and starts measuring again. The amount of load can be set by the operator. This test is really killing for the engine. As a bystander you can see the RPM rise slowly but very smooth, like the car is accelerating in slowmotion. By reducing the load this process takes less time. At RICA they call this a so called quick run and it is a bit comparable to an inertia/dynamic type dyno system.
After performing the measuring of power the car needs to be rolled out until the wheels come to a stop and at this point the dyno can measure the energy going in to the drive train, the so called negative power, which represent the drivetrain losses. When finished the cumputer will calculate the numbers the results are plotted in corrected BHP, uncorrected BHP, torque and loss.
To use these numbers in the correct way you need to look at the corrected/uncorrected BHP numbers, not the wheel numbers because they will be lower compared to a inertia/dynamic dyno result. The cause for these differences can be found in the setup of both systems. Because of the load and the tires being "strangled" between two rollers instead of a big drum the overall resistance is higher.
RICA is using two fan's for different setups. One can produce 100 mph of air stream and the other near 50 mph.

When using a dynamic dyno system basically all you should do is to look at the wheel power results and nothing more. Unless the dyno system attempts to measure the negative power all calculations/conversions to engine power are useless, purely for indication.
Some people use loss figures of 12.5%, others 15% for manuals and between 18-25% for AT's...
Make sure you get the correct wheel numbers with a Dynojet type chassis dyno. Don't let the operator talk you in to a fictive loss numbers which needs to be entered in to the dyno computer.
Loss in non linear. You can't pick an X% loss and calculate through the rev band.
Loss at 1000 RPM is minimal, and AWD will show extreme losses at redline which will be as high 30-40%!. Power at the engine will develop while power at the wheels will drop after a certain point. Peak wheel HP is never in the same spot as peak engine HP.

For me the basic rule of thump, if the dyno is static and can measure losses use BHP.
If the dyno is dynamic use wheel HP which will always be relatively high.
Since US folks mostly use WHP as a base of power output your best choice would be to look for a Dynojet type or dynamic type dyno system and use these numbers to communicate on a forum like this. Using a static system and the results on a forum like this will only bring a lot of unfounded blah and confusion because a majority of the people simply do not understand how to look at these numbers. (No offence)
I did the same, I dyno'd my SwedeDemon at a Dynojet type dyno last year and asked for WHP only results. The results at the time were 284 WHP, the computer calculated 311 EHP, using the rule of thump guess losses the EHP numbers should be between 325 and 335... (Where did that 24 HP go?? tongue.gif )
In a way the results are only good for your car on your dyno system of choice on that time during the ambient circumstances of that day...rolleyes.gif


Static dyno is the way to go for you because you want your car to perform under constant load on the ring and with a static dyno you will come closest to the real situation. It is the only way to set the car up along the fine line of correct ignition timing. You don't want a high peaking HP dyno queen.. wink.gif

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#8 volflo

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 02:39 PM

a wise man once said:
"your the man, Johann."
I second that.


do i hear somebody call: "Pin it, Pin it quick." ?

thanks. Sorry i have to read that again. to much new info.
I was never really that much into dynoing. But now im at the point, where more modding might become counterproductive. So a close look is necessary.

I ll start a thread for instance. Cos i couldnt resist: i tried the 16T BSR chip with my current setup and car was even more agressive than with the RICA custom one. Plug check was ok, slightly too light greyish maybe. and i has no backfiring from too much fuel (and/or early advance ignition?).
the Rica chip burbles and ratles in the exhaust when i step of gas in first (e.g. showing off coming to the filling station..... (yes i confess i do that wink.gif ).
is that the retarded ignition and /or more fuel?

Edited by volflo, 27 October 2004 - 02:40 PM.

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#9 volflo

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 02:45 PM

i remeber the porsche guy say: "we perform the dyno run at a overall gear ratio of ~1. Usually 4th gear."

Does that imply that its static or dynamic run?
What will a have to take care of knowing what it is?
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#10 JCviggen

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 03:34 PM

QUOTE(volflo @ Oct 27 2004, 02:45 PM)
i remeber the porsche guy say: "we perform the dyno run at a overall gear ratio of ~1. Usually 4th gear."

Does that imply that its static or dynamic run?
What will a have to take care of knowing what it is?
View Post


I think regardless of what Dyno type they always take the gear that comes closest to 1...

I think you should just ask them to give you uncorrected numbers, and ask them what type of dyno it is. Even if they wouldnt know the difference static/dynamic you can still ask them for the name of their equipment.. aside from that i think you're just along for the ride smile.gif
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#11 BlackT5

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 03:46 PM

By using 4th gear (closest to 1:1 gear ratio) you get the least amount of drag or friction in the gearbox.

Edit: You might just want to give them a call and see what they say about the dyno. Then you'll have a better idea what you're getting yourself into smile.gif

Edited by 850Ridah, 27 October 2004 - 03:52 PM.

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#12 Guest_Guest_*

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 05:20 PM

QUOTE(Johann @ Oct 27 2004, 12:45 PM)
QUOTE(volflo @ Oct 27 2004, 01:57 AM)
Went on the Porsche Berlin site and they have photograph of their dyno.
Anybody know what it is/ if its good?

View Post


Florian,

The projected numbers are for your own good to see how your car develops over time.
Just to bad you never arranged a baseline of your car before the changes. It would have been nice to monitor the progress.
Which dyno totally depends on the system you will be using and how to translate the numbers.
My Volvo's have always been dyno'd at RICA in the Netherlands on a MAHA chassis dyno.
This system can measure the performance of the car by creating a rolling resistance and in a way emulating road situations. This is a so called static dyno system.
There are several ways of testing the car this way. One is to search for maximum output under load at a fixed RPM. The other way is to pick multiple RPM points in a row where the car needs to keep it's RPM point while the load is increasing until power collapses, nice for searching the detonation/ignition retarding limits. Every time the test is completed you move to the next RPM point. At the end the computer can produce a nice graph with the corresponding numbers.
Downside of this test is the enormous amount of heat going in to the car...
A nearly identical test is to increase RPM at the edge of the power delivery of the car. The dyno system can see where the power doesn't develop anymore so it increases RPM and starts measuring again. The amount of load can be set by the operator. This test is really killing for the engine. As a bystander you can see the RPM rise slowly but very smooth, like the car is accelerating in slowmotion. By reducing the load this process takes less time. At RICA they call this a so called quick run and it is a bit comparable to an inertia/dynamic type dyno system.
After performing the measuring of power the car needs to be rolled out until the wheels come to a stop and at this point the dyno can measure the energy going in to the drive train, the so called negative power, which represent the drivetrain losses. When finished the cumputer will calculate the numbers the results are plotted in corrected BHP, uncorrected BHP, torque and loss.
To use these numbers in the correct way you need to look at the corrected/uncorrected BHP numbers, not the wheel numbers because they will be lower compared to a inertia/dynamic dyno result. The cause for these differences can be found in the setup of both systems. Because of the load and the tires being "strangled" between two rollers instead of a big drum the overall resistance is higher.
RICA is using two fan's for different setups. One can produce 100 mph of air stream and the other near 50 mph.

When using a dynamic dyno system basically all you should do is to look at the wheel power results and nothing more. Unless the dyno system attempts to measure the negative power all calculations/conversions to engine power are useless, purely for indication.
Some people use loss figures of 12.5%, others 15% for manuals and between 18-25% for AT's...
Make sure you get the correct wheel numbers with a Dynojet type chassis dyno. Don't let the operator talk you in to a fictive loss numbers which needs to be entered in to the dyno computer.
Loss in non linear. You can't pick an X% loss and calculate through the rev band.
Loss at 1000 RPM is minimal, and AWD will show extreme losses at redline which will be as high 30-40%!. Power at the engine will develop while power at the wheels will drop after a certain point. Peak wheel HP is never in the same spot as peak engine HP.

For me the basic rule of thump, if the dyno is static and can measure losses use BHP.
If the dyno is dynamic use wheel HP which will always be relatively high.
Since US folks mostly use WHP as a base of power output your best choice would be to look for a Dynojet type or dynamic type dyno system and use these numbers to communicate on a forum like this. Using a static system and the results on a forum like this will only bring a lot of unfounded blah and confusion because a majority of the people simply do not understand how to look at these numbers. (No offence)
I did the same, I dyno'd my SwedeDemon at a Dynojet type dyno last year and asked for WHP only results. The results at the time were 284 WHP, the computer calculated 311 EHP, using the rule of thump guess losses the EHP numbers should be between 325 and 335... (Where did that 24 HP go?? tongue.gif )
In a way the results are only good for your car on your dyno system of choice on that time during the ambient circumstances of that day...rolleyes.gif


Static dyno is the way to go for you because you want your car to perform under constant load on the ring and with a static dyno you will come closest to the real situation. It is the only way to set the car up along the fine line of correct ignition timing. You don't want a high peaking HP dyno queen.. wink.gif
View Post


You just explained why I always recommend a Mustang dyno over a Dynojet for tuning turbocharged cars. Great post! smile.gif

#13 volflo

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 08:00 AM

im busy today working, so here is the short answer.
It is that MAHA dyno joahn described (a german company eventually) where the tires sit on two tubes. it was that run in 4th gear with car slowly accelerating.

Now here is what came out:

318.2 hp (DIN 70020)
torque 451 Nm
269.2 hp wheel
46.9 hp resistance

that is of course much less than i expected. i mean 70 hp gain over stock with that mod list makes the hp/$ ratio very BAAAAAAD.

could be that the rather small tires make the car sit low between those two big tubes. but i chould calculate that.
the frame was not even half an inch above those tubes....

I will get my friends bone stock 95 t5 man on that dyno to check.
again johann had been right, "you should have done your basline dyno..."


Edited by volflo, 28 October 2004 - 10:27 AM.

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#14 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 08:02 AM

did you monitor the boost/timing levels? Also, do you have the graphs? Was this sustained power/torque or just a spike?
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#15 JCviggen

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 09:01 AM

The sheets smile.gif

http://users.pandora.be/JCviggen/DSC00234.JPG

http://users.pandora.be/JCviggen/DSC00235.JPG

I personally wouldnt worry about it a lot Florian, we know how your car hauls and how it ate a 911 GT3...its obviously fast, regardless of any numbers wink.gif

edit : removed img tags

Edited by JCviggen, 28 October 2004 - 09:03 AM.

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#16 volflo

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 09:21 AM

thanks jan.
i really wonder why my Boostcontroller hit the limit (1.38bar) like 10 times (note the zigzag in boostcurve)
it normally does that (jc knows as well) perphaps two times maybe 3 in fifth gear......
i like my torque vurve tho. Above 400NM all the way, and above 300hp for a very wide rev band. Maybe thats the reason why it is so quick wiht being relytively weak.
But how come Rica claims 360hp for 19T setup?
(and i have big intercooler, removed AC and UR pulley in ADDITION).
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#17 JCviggen

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 09:30 AM

Its a shame you couldnt quickly change back to the BSR chip and see what kind of difference it gave you.

Rica can be "a little optimistic" in its claims...the chip I have is supposed to give me 304 BHP, but realistically I dont think i have any more than 280.

However I think you should definately get 360-ish engine HP with all your mods. I think at the end of the day you have to realise that doing a single dyno session on a dyno nobody (I know) has ever tested a similar car doesnt say very much. Every dyno already gives different results, and as you said, you lack any form of baseline to compare to sad.gif

I would prefer a curve like yours to a "peaky" curve giving 360 or 370 though. Still, in my opinion you MUST have more horsepower than that. It doesnt make sense with all the mods you have, and my butt dyno indicates you have way, way waaaay more HP than me wink.gif
Besides, didnt Toni get like 370-ish on his engine with his uncontrollable 19T back then with the stock intercooler? Since your car is as fast as his now, I dont think you can have any less than 350 @ the engine.

Dyno's, you can talk about them forever biggrin.gif
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#18 Johann

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 09:59 AM

Look good Florian!

Dyno's are always disappointing.. laugh.gif

I think dyno shows the engine is running very strong.
Did the engine reach full boost on the dyno?

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#19 Johann

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 10:18 AM

QUOTE(Johann @ Oct 28 2004, 03:59 AM)
Did the engine reach full boost on the dyno?
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Forget it, Saw the boost curve is in there.. rolleyes.gif

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#20 volflo

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 10:23 AM

QUOTE(Johann @ Oct 28 2004, 03:59 AM)
Look good Florian!

Dyno's are always disappointing.. laugh.gif

I think dyno shows the engine is running very strong.
Did the engine reach full boost on the dyno?
View Post


thanks. as i wrote before, i set the boost limiter to 1.38bar (since i do racing always at above 4000rpm..)

in the graph there is also the boost curve and u can see it hit the limit like a dozen times belo ~4200 rpm. thats probably due to the car having been accelrated from 1500rpm on. i normally dont exceed the warn limiter more than 2 times givin full throttle at 2500 or so.
anway above 4400 i get a nice and steady boost of 1.35 dropping slowly to 1.2 at 6000 rpm.
i think that is exactly what i need for my kind purposes.
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