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Big Turbo Upgrade Parts List


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#1 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 26 October 2004 - 10:05 PM

boost

turbo - T3/T4E hybrid. 57 trim compressor wheel/50AR compressor housing/63AR turbine housing with a stage 3 wheel and 10lb adjustable internal wastegate Link to turbo - $400 + $100 for coolant/oil lines = $500

manifold - stock manifold machined to accept t3 flange and also probably ported/polished - $50

intake - Stock MAF (make it in my garage) - $100

exhaust - 3" turbo-back (custom made locally) - $600

$1250 to get the turbo on with exhaust

fueling

injectors - RC 440 CC/min Link to Injectors $80/inj. x 5 - $400 + $45 for fuel lines

rising rate fuel pressure regulator - Aeromotive 13109 Link to RRFPR - $130

fuel pump - Walbro 255 LPH - Link to Fuel Pump - $125

$700 to get enough fuel

monitoring

wideband - LM-1 Link to LM-1 - $350

so we have $2250 for monster power....... now chipping it monkey.gif

mind you... this will allllll be done in stages, and I refuse to pay retail for any of these items so I expect to take about 20% off the final price knocking it down to around $1800 for a biiiig turbo upgrade cool.gif
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#2 jross

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Posted 26 October 2004 - 10:10 PM

Yea, two pieces of advice. DASTEK on the chip, and don't use the stock manifold. At least see about picking up a new T5 manifold (forget where that thread went), I think you want the one on the XC90.

#3 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 26 October 2004 - 10:28 PM

as for the chip I'm 95% sure I'm going upsolute... have to talk to Rob about that one smile.gif

as for the manifold, you're absolutely right... if anyone comes across one please tell me
Joseph H. Essaye III
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#4 jross

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Posted 26 October 2004 - 10:34 PM

Here's the thread: http://www.swededemon.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=69

And you really should look into the DASTEK.. that's just my .02. I think for what you're doing, it will prove much more flexible and responsive.

#5 Guest_DougK_*

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 02:26 AM

Im with jross completely. Dastek will let give you the ability to tune it the same day till its right.

Also, the xc90/s60R exhaust manifold will be the way to go.

Jesse has an extra intake/fuel rail floating around right? IF you can find one, go to a junkyard and pull some RWD volvo fuel injectors. Test fit them, IF they fit (Im sure they will) shop around for bosch injectors for mustangs and TONS of other makes. You can find often 8 injectors (45-50lb/hr ratings, more than enough) for CHEAP on ebay.

Keep in mind, I knew people running similar setups, their motors didn't last all that long.

You could consider a holset. You can find them darn near new on ebay for often less than 300 bucks. On a 2.3L whiteblock it'll spool just as well as a 19T would imo (I get full boost on an 8v motor at 3500rpm). You will want to consider an external gate though (actually you will need one) but you can pick up a cheap audi one easy enough. Holsets are almost indestructable, I've had 5 year old ones that didn't smoke, spun perfectly and had no shaft play (and it looked like jerk when I bought it).

The other reason I like holsets is I know they are quality... alot of the ebay special hybrids are of questionable quality imo.

Glad to see your going to use the Wideband, best info you can possibly have at hand.

Doug

#6 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 02:43 AM

Doug, both you and jross, have made me consider a couple other options.

The Dastek it seems you are all pushing, I am going to put some more in depth research into it. Anyone have personal experience? (Johann?)

As for turbo, the Holset is an extremely viable option. It seems very popular on "turbobricks" and eric's pushed it a couple times lol. I have an extremely inexpensive source (<$20) for the stock manifold without cracks, etc. For that price, I was thinking I could port/polish the stock manifold and machine it, and still pay less than half the price of the XC90 manifold. Doug, is that the same T3 4 bolt flange found on the holsets?

I think Jesse sold that fuel rail with the injectors, but I'm sure I could find one for a cheap price... just the rail, nothing else. I wonder if the Ford ones could fit... I know there are other Bosch Injectors that are much larger in size.

I understand the motors don't last that long, but I truthfully will not push her past 300 wheel right now. I do not want to until I build it.
Joseph H. Essaye III
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PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!

#7 jross

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 03:39 AM

The guy who runs Kalmar Union recommended the DASTEK to me. It's what I'm going with, once I get all the parts I'm waiting on / looking for. I've already talked to DASTEK North America, they said they should be able to do the full hookup on our cars from $800 to $1200, depending. One factor that affects price is that they want to switch to a MAP sensor (they'd cap the MAF to keep the computer happy, but it wouldn't see the full airflow, only up to ~12 lbs). The MAP would drive the DASTEK. Check out www.unichip.com

#8 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 03:51 AM

Well, jross...

www.unichip.com didn't work for me (no links, just e-mail) but I did use http://www.dastek.co.uk/features_unichip.htm

As for switching to a MAP sensor for 12 PSI, I wouldn't need to do that for a couple of months, however I figure I would be better just doing so now.

Please tell me more if there is more you have discoved. I e-mailed dastek earlier tonight to see if there was a US distributor, etc.
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#9 Guest_DougK_*

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 03:57 AM

Raf was using Dastek. If you could do what Johann did (and use an emulator or something that allowed them to make multiple dyno pulls then burn the chip once and be done) that would be sweet too.

If you've got a cheap manifold I say use it, have a good shop put a cheap external on it and holset it. Probably be out the door for 500 bucks, save another 100-150 in exhaust down pipe modifications ect.

#10 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 04:03 AM

QUOTE(dougs242S60 @ Oct 26 2004, 11:57 PM)
Raf was using Dastek. If you could do what Johann did (and use an emulator or something that allowed them to make multiple dyno pulls then burn the chip once and be done) that would be sweet too.

If you've got a cheap manifold I say use it, have a good shop put a cheap external on it and holset it. Probably be out the door for 500 bucks, save another 100-150 in exhaust down pipe modifications ect.
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yea, the manifold I can get cheaply... and I'll just get a Holset off eBay, any recommended ones? Or Doug, do you have a holset dealer you recommend?

I wonder what I'll do about intake setup rolleyes.gif
Joseph H. Essaye III
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PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!

#11 jross

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 08:55 AM

Sorry, I'm a retard. It's www.unichip.us (not .com) Their phone is 866.643.7400 (that's for the North American main office), I've spoken with them before, knowledgeable folks. They have people in most major metropolitan areas (ie, I think there's 2 in LA, 1 in SF, so on and so forth). I think the guy's name is Don, but don't quote me on that, I could be totally wrong -- probably am!

I think the page (and the dude) should be able to answer just about any questions. I know I'm planning on doing the Aquamist 2c, which should be able to be controlled by the Unichip. Side note -- if you're running Aquamist (and I think you are, but I could be wrong), it IS possible to upgrade from the 1s system to the 2c with a couple parts. If you're interested, lemme know, I've talked to Aquamist about it and have the part numbers somewhere.

#12 Johann

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 10:12 AM

QUOTE(jross @ Oct 27 2004, 02:55 AM)
Sorry, I'm a retard. It's www.unichip.us (not .com) Their phone is 866.643.7400 (that's for the North American main office), I've spoken with them before, knowledgeable folks. They have people in most major metropolitan areas (ie, I think there's 2 in LA, 1 in SF, so on and so forth). I think the guy's name is Don, but don't quote me on that, I could be totally wrong -- probably am!

I think the page (and the dude) should be able to answer just about any questions. I know I'm planning on doing the Aquamist 2c, which should be able to be controlled by the Unichip. Side note -- if you're running Aquamist (and I think you are, but I could be wrong), it IS possible to upgrade from the 1s system to the 2c with a couple parts. If you're interested, lemme know, I've talked to Aquamist about it and have the part numbers somewhere.
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Personally I think the Unichip is a bad choice..

Why? Because you are limited the same way you are with a chip.
The Unichip can only be programmed by a Dastek certified install centre
If a company like Upsolete can write custom maps for the stock ECU it is always the better option, less parts is better. For high boost on an 850 you need an EBC anyway so the ECU only needs to provide fuel and timing.

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#13 jross

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 10:37 AM

I agree that Unichip shares the restriction a chip has in that it still has to be programmed by a certified tech, but it's still more adaptive and involves significantly less downtime.

However, I'm not sure that you'd need an EBC for higher boost. With the MAP sensor installed, the Unichip should be handle boost up past 20 psi.

From my perspective (and I think Doug has said this as well), it's the best setup short of a standalone.

#14 Guest_JHEIII850Turbo - Guest_*

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 12:58 PM

Hmm...

I had no idea that this chip was only programmable/modifiable by a "dastek unichip" modifier. Price without including the MAP seems around $800 including tuning and wiring the ECU. Seems fair.

Also, for Upsolute I'd have to pay the price of the original programming, then Rob said $150 for the remap. For the price of that I may as well go with the Dastek or another standalone unit. However, it seems the Dastek is the easiest to control/tune, by someone else sad.gif


As for my boost controller... I have a Greddy Profec B Spec I (I do not trust the BCS with a big(ger) turbo).

I do not currently have an aquamist setup on there, however I am going to do so before I push more than 10 PSI on the larger turbo.

Doug and others... any Holset you recommend?

#15 EricF

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 06:49 PM

I'd stay smaller on the Holset, HX30, HX35, etc... Doug can be more enlightening about that.
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#16 Guest_DougK_*

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 10:57 PM

You never see HX30's around (well rarely) but heres your choices:

(Remeber with holsets anytime you see "W" it means wastegate. I HIGHLY advise going external regardless so you dont need to find a wastegated model)

(W)H1C This is the oldest of the holsets you'll see. It came on 12v diesels, have what I want to say is a 12cm2 exhaust housing. I've run this turbo, its a bit laggier of the series.
HX35(W): These were on most 24v diesels. Smaller exhaust side, very common.
HY35(W): This one varies. The first version is found on some manual (some sources say automatics, but every automagic cummins I've seen has had an HX) and has a more "mistu" looking exhaust housing. Apparently still a smaller exhaust side (when I say smaller, these are STILL big, think 1.12 AR's).
HY35W V2.0: This is found on the common rail dodge (think new body style) diesels. The easiest way to spot one is a 4" exhaust out and a 90* elbow cast right into the compressor housing (which may be a bad thing for a FWD car). This is what Im running now. Apparently it sits between the older HY's and HX's for hp and lag. I make full boost at 3500rpm, 4k in first gear. Great response.

Down sides to the Hy35(v2): The exhaust outlet REQUIRES that you either use the cast elbow that it comes with or make your own vband flange (as I did). May be a fitment issue for FWD once again. I would probably stick with an HX35(W) that has the 2.75 (or 3?) exhaust outlet.

think something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW

or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

If you must try using internal (which wont work) do NOT use the stock actuator. Its base pressure is around 20-25psi.

Doug

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 10:59 PM

oh btw, H_35's use T3 inlets and t3 oil return flanges. The oil inlet is a metric fitting, I can try to dig up the spec on it for you.

#18 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 01:42 AM

Doug, thanks so much for that information. So, I am planning on a HX35 without a wastegate, as for external... which are you running? I would probably just run the external into the downpipe instead of the manifold (kinda ghetto, but works smile.gif)

IF I were to do an internal wastegate would this one in particular work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

The T3 inlet's going to work out nicely monkey.gif This should prove to be a fun project. One thing I'm wondering about is that isn't the inlet on these 3"? My MAF sure as hell isn't 3"... blink.gif
Joseph H. Essaye III
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!

#19 Guest_DougK_*

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 02:36 AM

The inlets are 4" baby wink.gif

The internal gates on Holsets are TO small. They are meant for low reving diesels. If you like 50+ psi overboosts try it wink.gif

I use a Tial 38mm external gate (I actually bought from Eric). Man, external is the ONLY way to go biggrin.gif Steady as a rock boost.

You'll need to plumb the IN from preturbo exhaust and route it either out of the engine bay or into the exhaust somewhere.

Older audi's used 30mm external gates (as did porsches) you *should* be able to find one cheap(ish).

#20 BlackT5

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 02:45 AM

Joseph, if you go with an external wastegate, I don't thikn you'll be able to use the stock manifold but i'd love for you to prove me wrong wink.gif
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