Sign in to follow this  

1998 V70 Xc From The Beginning... to the End

Recommended Posts

7 hours ago, Commander Riker said:

H!  Man, nice work as always!  I see the AWD is in your blood, sir.


Curious of your impressions of that AWD setup vs the old XC.

Thank you.

I haven't had bad weather to really check it out yet. The kinds of driving where the AWD shone was on the Parkway I commute on - it's 2 lane greenway divided, and floods really badly on the edge of the fast lane, perfect conditions for telling if the AWD is doing it's job.

In dry driving, it really makes a difference in higher speed ramp driving & long sweeping uphills where you can feel the rear pushing in a good way. I'm really happy with it. Annoying stuff is the software - I haven't got really agressive with it & you do have to remember to turn off the DSTC or you just get front wheel spin. Since I'm relying on Hilton for tuning, I really doubt I will ever go beyond the K16, but you never know....

The X1/9 will be fun, since it's gonna be around 220WHP in a chassis that weighs maybe 2000lbs :)


The funky business with that is I have to raise & lower the car onto the drivetrain, no other way to install it.




  • Like 1
  • Upvote 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/12/2019 at 1:23 PM, Commander Riker said:

H!  Man, nice work as always!  I see the AWD is in your blood, sir.


Curious of your impressions of that AWD setup vs the old XC.

So.... We had some snow & ice, and I took it out to see what's what. With DSTC turned off, it's quite nice- but.... since these have no rear posi like the old P80's (cheap Ford bastards) the rear pushes right when it looses traction. I'm getting a Quaife QDF11J (AustinV70R  on SwedeSpeed posted a howto). It is a fucked up install, since the  ring gear is welded to the diff, but it needs to be done.

More work on the exhaust. Got the tailpipe/resonator laid out & tacked after some back & forth. Since the Magnaflow's are loud, I'm adding a resonator I cut off the S40 AWD exhaust :D
After that, I started on the exhaust hanger setup - left side. Volvo hangers of course.
welded heavy wahers to the muffler pins to prevent the hanger walking sideways
Right side
Clearances all seem ok - has enough wiggle to not hit the chassis
May need another hanger on the left front of the muffler or the rear side of the tailpipe, to keep the exhaust from rocking. The flex coupler allows a subtantial amount of tilt and twist.
Not much clearance off the planned floor pan - may have to raise it
RedTail (2.5"x3.5"x4") L exhaust tip - will be going on the SW chambered muffler/open tailpipe setup. I'm not expecting to leave the Magnaflow on.
Have to figure out the header support - going to cut the ear off the old manifold, make an brace from that to the block or the rear MWB mount bracket to the header collector, whichever works.
O2 sensor will go about here. Glad I didn't drill on the otherside where I was going to put it- that has insufficient clearance from the muffler now
WBO2 sensor will go around here, probably at 12 o'clock, if it will clear the floor OK, don't want it inline with the other O2
After that I started on the replacement water passage - cut the flanges off more cleanly than the previous. Heater pipe welded  - that went better than last time also.
Rad hose outlet ('00 V70 :D) will be something like this - have to remove the old one first to confirm placement
  • Upvote 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Still building the exhaust. 




Finished up the water passage outlet, V70 t/stat neck 


Finshed the adaptor housing and Volvo C30 t/stat housing install



Quaife arrived for the C30 rear end. Waitng for the spare rear diff to chop up



  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Worked on the heat shield / trunk floor framing today.
Started with this heat shield from the S40 AWD
cut & folded to fit the opening, set upside-down here to use the opening to form the edges. Used the mallet to flatten the dimpled flanges, then pressed them bewtween two flats in the vice after this
Had to mull over what to do about the raised area - I decided to make a aluminum square tube frame to contain it, upon which the stainless steel floor pan will be attached.
air gap between the shield and panel
two sections will be cut & welded as one
The excess from the shield should be sufficient to make a panel between the exhaust bay & engine bay
Whilst I was on a heatshield kick I cut the Honda manifold shield to fit the header
cut edge was folded in on itself to keep the two- layer integrity
Have to weld tabs back on the manifold flange, and one by the collector to support it
  • Upvote 6

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Made a bracket that mounts underneath on the block - wasn't happy with the idea of a side brace. The factory elbow bolts to that, and then a SS tab will be welded to the header collector
had to add a vertical section for the upper securing bolt of the elbow bracket. Bolts are welded on the backside.
Honda bracket goes thus, with the header bracket on the other side
All bolts are easy enough to access, nothing fiddly here
Header has to be installed through the exhaust bay....
I cut up the Acura swaybar end links and used them to make the upper support brackets for the heat shield
drilled a new hole at the base, and transferred the isolating collar from the old lower section. Had to drill one side off & then silver solder it back in place
Have to make & weld a tab to the collector for that.
Lastly, I started laying out the heat shield divider for crossmemember area. Probably going to drill & install a series of SS M4 rivnuts & use SS M4 hardware to secure it.
Stainless Works (2.5" 4"x8"x14" body chambered "Turbo") muffler arrived this morning. I had emailed them on Thursday when it didn't show as shipped (they said 2 weeks from time of order to ship), and they said they were a couple weeks behind (!) and that I might see it by New Years. I replied indicating I really wasn't happy with that outcome, and if they had indicated at the time of order that delivery could take around a month I may well have looked elsewhere. To their credit, I got a shipping notice Friday morning.
Got it welded to the I/O pipes I had made for the Magnaflow muffler, with a little adaption due to the difference in muffler dimensions.
Seem to have good clearances all around. I'll see what happens when it's operating on the road.
Have to cut the tailpipe & add the RedTail SS tip. Not going to do that until the car is down & level so I can be sure the extension/offset is right.
the fact that it's not level is somewhat of a bother - however, not enough to compel me to rework it.
With that out of the way , I started in on all the wiring that needs to happen. Took care of all the rear deck wiring
Next I'll do the relay wiring in here for the starter & bay fan, then move to the trunk for the ECU /EMS management wiring. Not really looking forward to that. Problem is I don't have a concrete plan on how best to lay it out.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, lookforjoe said:
the fact that it's not level is somewhat of a bother - however, not enough to compel me to rework it.

What type of bumper insert goes in that void? It will likely conceal it from not being level anyway. Nice work!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

@lookforjoe It’s so nice to see you back  in the machine shop making and modifying stuff. The photos of your fabrication skills now account for about 2/3 of my enjoyment of this site...

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, gmsgltr said:

What type of bumper insert goes in that void? It will likely conceal it from not being level anyway. Nice work!

There is an aluminum slat panel that covers all that, so yes, one cannot see it once it's covered :)


3 hours ago, tighe said:

@lookforjoe It’s so nice to see you back  in the machine shop making and modifying stuff. The photos of your fabrication skills now account for about 2/3 of my enjoyment of this site...

Thank you - it is enjoyable, making stuff :D



Finally had a breakthough in terms of having a direction for the ECU, bus bars & relay box layout. Slow day at work, so I did some sketching to figure it out. Was thinking along these lines (in the left cavity, vertical strip on the right being the left frame rail):
played around with some cardboard, and then made the aluminum version (used the neighborhood watch sign). Recessed to keep the ECU as far in the fender well as possible. Bolted to inner wheel arch and taillamp support.
Then I figured out the support for the relay box, and the bus bars
cut & folded, rivnuts to secure the relay box & bus bar. Pos bar will go to the right
anchor at the base - using the bolt that also secures the exhaust hanger plate
Now I can get on with the actual wiring, once I get back from visiting my daughter & grandchildren in Orlando.
  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

AWD Ring gear is now transferred & welded to the new rear Quaife 11J LSD. $250 later it's done. Now I have to install the new bearings (32008X/Q) and check the backlash.



He said it was a royal pita to essentially machine the old diff out of the ring gear, the welds were deep



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
I got the relays wired, and the two connectors to allow it to be unplugged & removed as a unit
6 pin Sumitomo TS 090 for the signal wires & 6 pin JPT for the power/ground feeds
Have to figure out where some of the wires need to go that aren't part of the  ECU "E" & EMS C201 connectors. Tomorrow I'll get the other relay box that lives in the spare well that feeds the starter & the Bay fan circuits wired. Need to do the same & have it removable with about 2' of harness coming off it. Much easier to do this part at my dining table than squatting in the freezing garage :)
Worked on the spare well area relay box. Right now, it's for the starter relay & bay fan circuit. I wired 2 of the spare fuses to constant (30) and the other two to switched (15) for future use.
Constant (30) feed for the starter relay & two of the spares. 2pole connector is for the starter feed. Took me forever to decide what type of connector to use, kept vacilating between design types. These are Sumitomo 6.3mm series, somewhat beefier construction than standard  old school Yakazi terminals. Going to use Yazaki & Sumitomo 060 terminals & housings for the EMS connections to wiring to ECU "E" & C201 connections.
left the spare relays switched power & output/ ground lines out, since I don't know just yet what they will be controlling
Diodes inside the insulated strips for ground & switched power, to prevent backfeeding in the bay fan / timer circuitry. Use part of a zip tie to keep the diode connections rigid.
About 30 wires left to connect to their appropriate circuits. I've done all I can of the wiring out of the car, time to go back out in the cold garage :(
EDIT: forgot to note that in figuring out the relay wiring, Honda uses a later convention for the (mostly) Panasonic(?) style relays they use - terminals are numbered 1-5, instead of the older 30, 87, 87a, 86, 85 that I am more used to with Volvo schematics. I have been using the following conversion: 1= 30 2=87 3=85 4=86 (4=87a 5=85 on their 5pole diagrams, which is annoying) based on my read of the Honda schematics. The relays they depict don't seem to utilize the diode I am used to seeing between 3-4 to prevent backfeeds.
Most all the (Volvo supplied) relays I use are the standard cube with the diode in place. As such, it is essential to make sure the ground side of the circuit is always connected to 85, since the diode is set to prevent current passing from 85 through the coil winding to 86.
I have noticed some of the Honda-swap schematics wire their relays with 85 as the switched current, and 86 as the ground leg so I have to be careful when following these to switch mine to 85.
plastic-welding the duct support - outside - the vapors really smells bad
I have about 3" depth at the bottom corner in the well
primed and painted the bracket
EPDM hose I bought from McMasterCarr years ago
Hose will go through the inner fender gap to the gas tank side opening & will attach up top
gap (parts car) that the hose has to push through
PWM controller
finished duct plate - lips on the left & bottom to clip it in place.
top of plate tucks under vacuum cannister support bracket
  • Like 1
  • Upvote 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Love your drawings. This is cool. 

  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/9/2020 at 12:35 PM, Oreo931 said:

Love your drawings. This is cool. 

Thank you :)

Still plugging away at the electrical wiring - laying out the EMS harness now that I have the various connections figured out. I made an bridge harness (using  the pigtail that came with the motor) between the ECU E, C201, relay box and EMS, so that everything can be unplugged if/when the drivetrain requires removal.

Now it's mostly just a question of connecting all the dots. AMP JPT connectors for much of this, simply because I have them from old Volvo harnesses & they can carry reasonable load. Using Yazaki 1.5 & 2.8 for sensors, signal wires, etc. that don't have the same load requirements.
15 to relay box, 15 & 31 for ECU fan and Fuel pump here
AC compressor clutch feed
ECU fan PWM connection HX 040 series
Also putting a couple layers latex on the backside of the remaining Bertone floor mat to help hold it together & create a rubberized layer. Adheres nicely into the mesh grid on the back. Now I wish I had kept the DS mat - I might have been able to save it with this method. Just need it to last another year or so until I'm ready to install the new carpeting & mats from Henk.
Got some more of the EMS harness connected - these are all the signal/trigger wires that pass from theater-engine EMS harness through to the cabin via two connectors at that end. I bought these crimpers from Cycle Terminal back when I was doing the C30 AWD swap - to take care of the wiring needs for that.
There are issues - I found that I had incorrectly connected a wire on the cabin side of this harness - the one I need for the bay fan thermoswitch  I mistakenly connected to the wire intended for the ACfan trigger - which runs all the way to the fusebox instead of terminating in the spare well. I'll have to switch some wires around in the cabin-side connector to address that. Thankfully it's just the that pair. 
This stuff takes me forever. I've been spending days on making the wiring charts listing the different connectors and all the wiring on each side of every connector. I have to do it multiple ways so I can cross-check each wire as I actually connect it to the appropriate housing. Very time consuming for me. I tend to get dyslexic with this stuff & switch pin numbers/locations in my head or look at the housings from the wrong side when counting pin numbers. The convention seems to be pins are numbered starting top row left, viewed from the wire side of the housing. Some of the sketches I made, I had labelled them viewed from the terminal side or from the male housing, which throws everything off. Fortunately I figured most of that out on paper rather than after doing the wiring itself.
I've also been mulling over whether or not to include the ELD (Electronic Load Detection) circuit Honda builds into the EMS. The ECU controls Alt output based on a load signal from that. If I didn't include it, I would still have to figure out a way to 'fool' it otherwise. I chopped up the Acura fusebox & removed the section that houses the input battery/starter/alt cable attachment, with the ELD module. I considered mounting it in the spare well, which would have been easier, however the unit needs to monitor load before any consumers, or it won't operate correctly, based on what I've read about it.
I bent the left tab flat & cut off some extra material to leave two flats I could drill for studs
ELD module I/O to be addressed. For the trigger, I'm going to use the wire I had intended for the acfanrelay, since I've already run that from the trunk through to the Fiat fuse panel, so an easy extension out to the frunk from there. Other two are just switched power & ground.
it will go between the battery cable & my inline fuse
looks like it will be OK. Will need some sort off insulation/isolation on the underside of the left left for safety.
I shoved the duct hose into the inner fender, and found that the most I can get is about 14" forward - there is an reinforcing member below the targa sail that intersects with the inner fender & blocks further passage. Should be OK, still will be drawing air coming from either the gas tank well side opening or from the targa sail vent, I reckon

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
The latex seems to be working for fixing the mat backing.
It's holding the frayed edging nicely.
Found I hadn't discarded the driver's mat, so I'm going to try the same for that. I'll add reinforcing webbing to the damaged sections of the backing, and laminate that into the backing.
Test fitting the CEIKA brakes.
problem is the calipers won't clear either wheel style without 24mm spacing. I need them to redo the brackets and the hubrings to push the calipers back 12mm. I can deal with 12mm spacers, that won't mess with the wheel arch /fender clearance. 
Worked on the EMS wiring after that. Finished the final connections to the harness. The I/O for the reverse lights & brake input were the last
putting it all in place
bracket & ECU fan secured
ECU in
Relay box in
Much wiring stuffed into this corner 
Soon I'll get to this mess
  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Worked on figuring out exactly what needs to be altered with the BBK. 14mm pushback on the rotor hub, with the bracket moved to the backside of the spindle mount - with that I can get away with 12mm spacer for the wheel, which works for both style wheels.


bracket needs caliper mount holes moved 4mm outward, with bracket mounted inboard. I cut 4mm off the inboard side to achieve that with the existing mount




rotor still clears the balljoint & steering arms on the spindle



Caliper clears the wheels with 10mm spacer, I can live with that.



After that I installed the ELD unit and worked on the spare well relay box & wiring



added the ground circuit junction





Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished the 8 pole spade bridge connector



only the OBDII port left now.


ELD circuit wired to this point. Just need to figure out a feed that is not live in crank


reconnected the battery - nothing caught fire or turned itself on, so it's looking good - so much wiring I wasn't sure I wouldn't have an issue


reverse lights are fed from the ECU, they work


Only thing I see is that I have the trigger for the ECU fan connected to (30) feed instead of (15) - it's not supposed to be live with key off.


Have to get some gasoline, check the fluids, and then crank it over & see what's what :)

  • Upvote 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this