Sign in to follow this  
lookforjoe

1998 V70 Xc From The Beginning... to the End

Recommended Posts

Engine wouldn't start - no ECU activation. Though it might be an immobilizer issue, but it turned out I missed wired the ECU base feed from the main relay instead of the fuel pump relay switched circuit.

IMG-20200118-141455.jpg

IMG-20200118-141510.jpg

IMG-20200118-153900.jpg

added the extra wire from the F/Pump relay feed fuse to E9 circuit, and it's all good! Ran it for just long enough to set the fuel pressure to 50psi and that was about it.

https://youtu.be/uY6dsARp0lg

Only ran it for some seconds - the garage had to be wide open at both ends as the hose would stay on the exhaust. Have two minor cooling leaks (water housng gasket I didn't bother changing, and pin hole in heater hose off T/stat exension housing) to address. No oil or other fluid leaks that I could see :D

Tach works, etc. Have to set some parameters in K-Tuner, as the idle surged after start idle mode. I read that the TPS has to be calibrated in the software, so need to look into that.

ODBII port is wired

IMG-20200118-152446.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Used a S40 wheel arch liner to make a cover for the EMS wiring

IMG-20200120-113252.jpg

IMG-20200120-172723.jpg

secured with one plastic rivet

IMG-20200120-113222.jpg

I'll cover it with carpet 

IMG-20200120-172749.jpg

IMG-20200120-172819.jpg

made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40

IMG-20200120-144713.jpg

IMG-20200120-144723.jpg

Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel

IMG-20200120-130223.jpg

reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the heater hose to hit the shift linkage

IMG-20200120-160304.jpg

all good now

IMG-20200120-160252.jpg

Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work

IMG-20200120-114854.jpg

changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times 

IMG-20200120-191540.jpg

After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down.

These are the dead times I should have switched to before running it

IMG-20200120-191624.jpg

I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.
 

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Took care of several things today.
 
Finished cleaning up the mats
 
IMG-20200121-135003.jpg
 
IMG-20200121-140002.jpg
 
Good enough for another year or so
IMG-20200121-140352.jpg
 
Bled the clutch. Haven't done the pedal box, but wanted to check if the pedal return spring faux-pas was the cause of my bleeding woes. Clutch bled in about ten strokes. Bottle with fluid attached to bleeder. Crack open bleeder, stroke until pedal firms. Check reservoir after each 3-4 strokes. Close bleeder.
 
IMG-20200121-152709.jpg
 
IMG-20200121-152714.jpg
 
IMG-20200121-152723.jpg
 
Clutch disengages close to the floor, but no matter it works.
 
With that, I dropped the car & drove it out the garage under it's own steam
 
IMG-20200121-171007.jpg
 
Several problems. Engine runs wayyy too rich, and won't idle below 1800rpm.
 
 
Worse thing - heater core is now leaking after I cleaned out the heater box drain :(
 
IMG-20200121-171058.jpg
 
Drip Drip Drip
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, apeacock said:

So sweet!

Did you really find just 1 unpined wire? Kind of nice to have such a smoking gun in this case. 

Yes, thank goodness that was all it was, as far as that goes.

Problem is it doesn't run well at all.  Idle surges & AFR's sweep wildly, so I haven't even run it to full warm up yet. Have some work to do to figure out what's going on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This car is going to be so much fun to drive 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/25/2020 at 12:43 PM, Brad850 said:

This car is going to be so much fun to drive 

I certainly expect so !

Temps in the high 30's today, so I pushed the car outside to run it. I modded the RSX tune using the TSX VTEC settings & rpm limits & uploaded to the ECU. 
 
K24a1-Franken.png
 
After that I ran the motor briefly. Sounds good & AFR's are good. Only obvious problem is high idle now.
 
Idle-Drop-IACVcovered-Frank-Tune.png
First up I pulled the IACV & found the crappy seal was cracked, and leaking. With the two ports plugged in the TB, the idle was closer to normal.
 
IMG-20200126-133843.jpg  
 
after that, I ran the motor to normal operating temp - 180 something for the K24, fan cycled.
 
IMG-20200126-140735.jpg
 
then I sprayed around the TB & intake plenum to check for possible air leaks. I did order a smoke machine  - been meaning to get one for some time - but it won't be here for close to a week.
 
I got an idle change when spraying the right side edge of the plenum
 
IMG-20200126-133607.jpg
 
unbolted the compressor, undid the plenum
 
IMG-20200126-144254.jpg
 
have to remove the support backet also, all easy to get to with the larger opening :)
 
IMG-20200126-151412.jpg
 
Just have to ease the gasket out & new one in
 
IMG-20200126-144830.jpg
 
I don't see any wear/uneven compression on the one I removed though
 
IMG-20200126-145046.jpg
 
Put it back together, and it sounded worse! So, I took the plenum off entirely, that wasn't to bad either, just have to drop the alternator to allow removal
 
IMG-20200126-160911.jpg
 
IMG-20200126-161006.jpg
 
IMG-20200126-162330.jpg
 
I found that there is a hole in the welds of the crotch between 1 & 2. I have to take the plenum back to the machine shop, that was one of the tricky areas I had him finish for me. I've also ordered one of the thermal intermediate gaskets (3mm), as I'm not confident that the skinny metal gasket is ever going to seal properly.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
This is where i'm at:
 
Tried the CompBrake mockup box
 
IMG-20200129-151017.jpg
 
I don't know how much height clearance there is above the pedal box - however this would need a few inches of clearance to work.
 
IMG-20200129-164554.jpg
 
IMG-20200129-164551.jpg
 
Decided I'll be much happier with a setup that with less complexity, so I'm going ahead with building the bias bar off the pedal arm pivot. Have to figure out how to box out the mounting plate I need to make to prevent flex under braking
 
IMG-20200129-194846.jpg
 
IMG-20200129-171325.jpg
 
IMG-20200129-171601.jpg
 
this will be welded here, with that offset I only need to widen the entire assembly by an inch
 
IMG-20200129-173948.jpg
 
IMG-20200129-172436.jpg
 
IMG-20200129-172212.jpg
 
IMG-20200129-172427.jpg
 
IMG-20200129-172442.jpg
  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welded the bias bar sleeve to the brake pedal

IMG-20200130-174916.jpg

cut a slot for the bias bar to recess in to

IMG-20200130-175940.jpg

Worked on the MC mount plate mock up

IMG-20200131-075932.jpg

IMG-20200131-075928.jpg

Need to add ridge to make plate more rigid

IMG-20200131-090404.jpg

1.25" offset will be good

IMG-20200131-080116.jpg 

3.25" height, 4.5" wide

IMG-20200131-090528.jpg

Will add webbing to support mount plate

IMG-20200131-090408.jpg

clutch pedal needs to sit approx 1/4" out for stop to sit on buffer/adjuster

IMG-20200131-094116.jpg

Bushing needs to be 6.375"

IMG-20200131-094232.jpg

Have to cut this out more where mrker line is to allow pedal to come forward / up

IMG-20200131-094726.jpg


Bought some 1.25" and 3" flat bar stock to work with. Then I remembered I had a spare eBrake pulley cover from the parts car, so I cut that down. Alrady has a nice rolled edge for rigidity

IMG-20200131-170806.jpg

Bolts will be welded in place - reverse position of what is shown here - no practical way to access the bolt heads once the webbing is in

IMG-20200131-174514.jpg 

IMG-20200131-174521.jpg

IMG-20200131-173130.jpg

Welded the brake pivot extension

"L" section under the forward edge

IMG-20200131-173105.jpg

rear extension

IMG-20200131-173113.jpg

With V70 clutch master in place

IMG-20200131-173400.jpg

Have to cut back the bracketry directly under the bias bar - it is just touching on the midsection plate at full height
 
IMG-20200131-173100.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wrapping up the pedal box welding. Required assembly/diassembly multiple times to check fit, clearances, adjustments, tweaking of clearance areas around the Bias Bar, MC fitment area fettling after welding, etc.,

IMG-20200201-143449.jpg

IMG-20200201-143454.jpg

bent pedal arm again to get 4" offset back. Can't be wider, just no room under there

IMG-20200201-143515.jpg

IMG-20200201-173134.jpg

IMG-20200201-151443.jpg

IMG-20200201-151448.jpg

IMG-20200201-161542.jpg

IMG-20200201-170731.jpg

IMG-20200201-170743.jpg

IMG-20200201-170750.jpg

IMG-20200201-171525.jpg

IMG-20200201-172946.jpg

IMG-20200201-172955.jpg

IMG-20200201-173000.jpg

IMG-20200201-173028.jpg

Brake lines from MC's have to go the this junction. Have to make those next. 3/-24 at MC to M10x1.25 (or is it 1.00 pitch, I forgot) at junction

IMG-20200201-173231.jpg

Hose routing

IMG-20200201-173529.jpg

or

IMG-20200201-173601.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I made the brake lines yesterday, and finshed the layout today. The stock MC had two front outlets, so I needed to split the front output to two lines. I repurposed one of the stock junction boxes.
 
Cross-drilled the channels & tapped with 1/8 NPT to block it off
 
IMG-20200202-163349.jpg
 
Blocked off one of the outlets
 
IMG-20200202-163537.jpg
 
Lines done
 
IMG-20200202-173054.jpg
 
Rear MC goes to the single junction. MC ends are 3/8-24, junction end is M10x1.25
 
IMG-20200202-173101.jpg
 
Bracket will retain the two junctions
 
IMG-20200202-173232.jpg
 
IMG-20200202-180311.jpg
 
IMG-20200203-163546.jpg
 
IMG-20200203-163541.jpg
 
IMG-20200203-163535.jpg
 
Spent a few hours the past couple days trying to find the cause of the P10009 Cam Angle code. As soon as the code is set, the cam stays in the full retard position.
 
I replaced the Cam angle solenoid, and rechecked the filter screen on the side of the head. After that, I looked further in to the software. The basic setting is this one:
 
I set it to 24º, taking these values from the TSX base code.
VTClimits.png
 
Today, I found the Cam angle map, and replaced the values in that with those for the TSX:
 
TSXcam-Map.png
 
I hoped that would fix it, but it did not. What I found was that the other 25º cam angle setup found in the Accord, only had a 20º Cam Angle Limit. Since the map only goes to 20º, I figured that may be why the code is setting, so I reduced the limit to 20º, and that fixed it! Yay!
 
The car ran better off the line with the RSX map, which has higher values lower in the rpm & load ranges, so I will try adding some degrees back in, without exceeding the limit. I'm going to take it for tuning in a couple weeks, now it OK overall.
 
I've also had issues with the idle. Can't get the IACV to operate properly, so I have disabled it for the time being. The problem there is, if a code sets, the engine won't rev nicely, it stumbles & stutters off idle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GPS for Marshall Speedo will likely go here
 
IMG-20200210-173314.jpg
 
Worked on a new gauge pod. Not going to put a stereo in the upper dash.
 
IMG-20200211-163305.jpg
 
IMG-20200211-164143.jpg
 
IMG-20200211-165524.jpg
 
M4 rivnuts
 
IMG-20200211-172526.jpg
 
IMG-20200211-172733.jpg
 
IMG-20200211-172808.jpg
 
IMG-20200211-173227.jpg
 
vinyl cover
 
IMG-20200211-182910.jpg
 
Oil Temp, WBO2, 5bar Volvo gauge used for fuel pressure
 
IMG-20200211-195320.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
done.
 
IMG-20200213-172650.jpg
 
IMG-20200213-172716.jpg
 
mod the shifter base to clear the housing, didn't want to engage 5th so well
 
 
IMG-20200213-171231.jpg
 
IMG-20200213-171217.jpg
 
IMG-20200213-171301.jpg
 
Installed the 50º cam gear. Took hours, as I really, really did not want to risk dropping the chain off the crank gear.
 
TDC 
 
IMG-20200209-114442.jpg
 
IMG-20200209-114540.jpg
 
Remove tensioner cover, then rotate CCW, lock tensioner, rotate back to TDC marker
 
IMG-20200209-115432.jpg
 
Removed all the cam caps
 
IMG-20200209-122835.jpg
chain tie-wrapped on either side to prevent it dropping
 
IMG-20200209-122646.jpg
 
IMG-20200209-122653.jpg
 
Also secured in the middle as per various videos, however this makes no sense, as with it tensioned from above, you can't get the chain off the gear :D
 
IMG-20200209-122640.jpg
 
Ditched the brace & center strap.
 
Very fiddly getting the chain off the gear, then getting the cam and gear out of the head. No pics. Transferred PND gear, torqued to 83ft/lb, reinstalled into head. Made sure dots in gears aligned with marker lines I made on chain. 
 
IMG-20200209-130155.jpg
 
Rotated a couple revolutions and checked all markers again
 
IMG-20200209-130207.jpg
 
IMG-20200209-132213.jpg
 
Had to redo the OP sender channel - I had made it for 1/8" NPT port, but the correct sender I have is actually M14x1.5, so I redrilled & tapped it & installed the correct sender
 
IMG-20200209-154101.jpg
 
All back together
 
IMG-20200209-163815.jpg
 
IMG-20200209-163823.jpg
 
Finally got the bushing (turned down to match stock OD, bored to 9/16 (.002" over) and new 9/16" stainless steel shaft from the machine shaft, $180 later....
 
hopefully get it in the car during the coming week, along with the heater core (maybe, don't really need that yet
)
IMG-20200214-160316.jpg
 
Welded the shaft to the clutch pedal, then put the pedal assembly together, set to center on the bias bar.
 
IMG-20200214-175202.jpg
 
IMG-20200214-175235.jpg
 
 
Figuring out the gauge layout with the Marshall Speedo & Tach. Has to fit 15" x 4.125", difficult to get the 4 52mm in that space. I'll move the speedo / tach closer together to gain a touch of space for the small gauges
 
IMG-20200215-161752.jpg
 
in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good.
 
IMG-20200215-145807.jpg
 
IMG-20200215-145729.jpg
 
IMG-20200215-145735.jpg
 
IMG-20200215-145751.jpg
 
IMG-20200215-145801.jpg
 
Maybe this year I'll get the stripes done
 
Dallara-Paint00102.jpg
 
 
Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see
 
IMG-20200215-141322.jpg
  • Upvote 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! Congrats man! It looks great! 

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is how I had it mocked up in cardboard - not going to work with my steering wheel

IMG-20200216-120709.jpg

holesawed out the gauge holes, with the 52mm gauges reversed

IMG-20200216-145324.jpg


IMG-20200216-125648.jpg


Checking the gauge clearance in the aperture. not sure how I'm going to finish the surface, probably just clear coat. Still have to figure out all the idiot light arrangements

IMG-20200216-125802.jpg

IMG-20200216-163243.jpg
and so...

IMG-20200217-121325.jpg

Wirign goes slow.

IMG-20200217-195807.jpg

IMG-20200218-134235.jpg

IMG-20200218-173141.jpg

GPS sender for the speedo in on top of dash, not going to bother me there

IMG-20200218-184329.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this