1998 V70 Xc From The Beginning... to the End


lookforjoe
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  • 1 month later...

Front suspension woes - car handles like crap. Reworked the sway bar mounts and end links 

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new control arms and bushings

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cut off the water pipe tunnel cover to inspect level of damage to pipes

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made new adaptor plates to fit C30 rear sway bare endlinks to the front - much higher degree of misalignment without binding than the old V70 AWD rear end links used previously 

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MFactory 4.00:1 R&P will go in when I drop the drivetrain to do the HG 

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Finally got the car back from the bodyshop - pouring rain, but it's gonna be like this for days & I just want it home

Happy with the nose, the lines where I had to merge the planes came out OK

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They did have to redo some of my work on top

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spoiler (modified S40 rear bumper cap)...

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Started putting the nose back together, now that the suspension /steering work is resolved.

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Got the 760 sway bar back in with the C30 end links, and SuperPro bushings (SPF1025-23K)

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Drilled the strut towers for the Ford mounts

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Got a K20Z3 (RBC-1) head - better flow than the RBB I have now. It is all nicely cleaned, decked & valve seats recut. Keeping the TSX cams & RBC gear limited to 40º. I'll swap it out when I drop the drivetrain to deal with the currently leaking HG, and install the 4:00 R&P.

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Car went back to the bodyshop this week to fix a few small things that just weren't right. All good now. 

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Worked on the tape stripes and decals whilst the temps are still in the 60's - I cut the decals from 3M 1080 film - easier to deal with than old school vinyl for sure

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S40 rear bumper cover worked great for the spoiler :D

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Used a 3mm gold strip to even out the (hand) cut edge

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  • 1 month later...

Been working on the dash wiring. Put the ductwork back in to check harness routing, had to rewire center console harness (again) to allow it all to be pulled back when servicing the console switch housing. 

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This is where I left off, temps dropped into the teens, too cold to work out there

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Decided to work on the dash / cluster layout, since that I can do in the house & basement

Went through several incremental revisions of the binnacle - which is a typical 80's Bertone layout - really boxy design. 
When Bertone designed this revision, they moved the entire cluster several inches closer to the driver, which cuts off visibility of the gauges. They did this to allow for the AC side dash vents to pass behind. Sloppy work, as they could have spent time making the layout more efficient & not add so much space between the bulkhead & IP

pass side

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driver's side - you can see the offset of the fixed tube could have easily been angled to allow at a couple inches of more of additional space here

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Depth from dash to center vent - this is where the AC panel has to fit, so space is more critical

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chopped a couple inches off the back of the control panel, to allow it to sit back and on an angle

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Initial plan - eliminate some of the binnacle to reduce the overhang & angle the center panel toward the driver

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After 1st cuts - what I did was cut off the outer 1/2" lip of the binnacle first, to then attach it later once the work is done, hence the masking tape here

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Comparison with original binnacle ( I cut up the spare from my parts car)

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It appears the binnacle is solid rubber, or a rubber-compound, it cuts & smells just like old tires

In cutting the binnacle, I also realized the cluster is elevated relative to the main dash, more obvious with the tapered exterior chopped back. This also doesn't help with gauge visibility, so I will address that also

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you can see the 'ramp' here

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chopped another section off the binnacle, and reduced the thickness of the lower ledge about 1/2" or so

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Having dropped the cluster base, I had to remake the face panel for the gauges. Will be covered in vinyl

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I had also chopped off all the stock cluster mounts, so I had to figure out a new system. What I ended up with, are those generic household shelving brackets - I drilled installed M4 rivnuts in them to secure the panel, and drilled through the rubber to utilize the existing peg mount

test on scrap - recessed the flange into the rubber

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Five mounts in place - detail

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seat-of-the-pants rebuild of the center support panel for the AC controls & extra gauges (used to be the radio location). Reversed locations - AC on bottom, gauges one top. I use ABS plumbing cement here. Patch it together to align with available dash mount points (3)

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a little UPOL Gold to fill the imperfections where I chopped apron 3/8" off the top of the binnacle

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overall layout - moved WBO2 to main cluster, even with a modified VDO bezel, it still protrudes more than the old VDO & Veglia gauges (which I want to keep)

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AlpineTech makes nice indicator bulbs, so no need for the descriptor labels I had previously

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Happy with the overall flow now. I like the setback into the dash compared to the massive overhang of the stock layout. 

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Just have to cut another tweeter hole (using tweeters from the S40 AWD parts car), and repair the one crack by the right of the center vent

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 What I was using for comparison (in the setback of the cluster dept.) - the original dash layout - 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Dismantled & refurbished the HVAC box

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cleaned all the sections

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checked brushes, bearings, etc

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Made new Neoprene gaskets for the Evaporator

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Box to body seal

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Center vent housing seal

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Removed and refurbished the flaps - the upper one had a seized hinge, which cracked the main housing by stressing the recirc door

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repaired the hinges

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Made the recirc control removable - drilled out the rivets & used M5 rivnuts instead

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Haven't put it back in yet, as complete access to the floor pan for repair is easier with that center area unobstructed. I'v put this off for at least 6 years - so about time I deal with it

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Start on cutting out the rot

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3 layers to deal with up here - not included in the replacement floor section

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cut back

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additional hole in the inner sill

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Replacement panel - not formed, but cut :(

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rough fit

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rebuilding the bulkhead layers

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Sill patches

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seams welded in floor section

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test fit again, had to deal with some adjustments from distortion when welding the cuts

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That's where I'm at  - I hate rust repair. Getting there, slowly but surely.

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New calipers for the C30 - the originals (about 8 years old now) were intended for the V70 - the black doesn't go so well on a black car.

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Main reason was this - revised design for the eBrake

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New wheels (17") for my snows for next year - my Enkeis are kinda beat up now

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15 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

New calipers for the C30 - the originals (about 8 years old now) were intended for the V70 - the black doesn't go so well on a black car.

Main reason was this - revised design for the eBrake

New wheels (17") for my snows for next year - my Enkeis are kinda beat up now

 

Wow, beautiful. Can't wait to see the brakes mounted...

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On 1/25/2021 at 9:16 PM, lookforjoe said:

New calipers for the C30 - the originals (about 8 years old now) were intended for the V70 - the black doesn't go so well on a black car.

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Main reason was this - revised design for the eBrake

 

 

 

 

 

 

The black porches ones and the same discs are still going strong ;D 

I may elect to change the discs and pads this year as the e-brake doesn't work so great. 

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2 hours ago, apeacock said:

The black porches ones and the same discs are still going strong ;D 

I may elect to change the discs and pads this year as the e-brake doesn't work so great. 

Nice! They really are overkill - but that does mean pads & rotors last much longer!

You have CEIKA up front, correct?

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It's been bloody cold here in my part of NY, along with some mild health issues, I haven't been doing much on the car - I'm lucky if I get the metal of the body up to 40ºF, so it sucks all the heat out of me leaning on it or under it to work.

Anyway, I did have time to get the floor pan fitted. stripped all mating surfaces (about 1" overlap) Rough sanded for adhesion with the Fusor 2 part body epoxy. Cut the drain hole to match the factory drains in the three other areas. This product is very low odor and has about 90min work time - so not difficult to work with for fiddly panels like this

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put a schmear of epoxy over all the mating surfaces first, as they recommend, then approx 1/4" bead on one of the mating surfaces

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Installed. Setup times are all rated at ambient temp -around 70ºF - so it will take probably twice as long (at least) in the unheated garage temps of around 20ºF. Once it's cured, I'l grind off all the rivets ends on the inside & caulk the seams with a good paintable body caulk

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