1998 V70 Xc From The Beginning... to the End


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Moving along with the floor... sanded the epoxy seams, ground back the rivets, primed & ready to caulk 


caulked - & final primer inside & out




Seam is reasonably concealed on this side. I think once the (3M) Rocker Schutz & Undercoat are applied it will be invisible 



had time to get first layer of top coat on the inside


also made a housing for the power window relay mod - I used 900 series relay sockets - 


based on this type retainer 


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I’m impressed you’re getting so much done this time of year! Looks like the floor repair came out really well, it’s barely noticeable in the last photos you posted. 

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20 hours ago, Zappo said:

Nice work.  I need to do the power window relays for my spider.

Does it have the same issue - circuit load carried by the switches? The windows are slow to operate without this mod - now they move in a more sprightly fashion.


8 hours ago, andyb5 said:

I’m impressed you’re getting so much done this time of year! Looks like the floor repair came out really well, it’s barely noticeable in the last photos you posted. 

 Thank you - it's been tough with the cold - laying on the floor of the garage sucks - even though I'm using several sheets of heavy cardboard, & tarp under that. With the paint, I have to work quick (with respirator) & then get out before the fumes get bad.

More paint 



Removed the Rad/Fans/AC condenser to replace the damaged condenser



I'd like to have added a Volvo fan - but just no room to make it work


Cut slots to add side vents like a Volvo setup (took the flaps from my old V70 fan shroud)




New condenser attached


cleaned up the rad well



Adding a VW two-temp fan switch


Will use the 850/V70 fan relay - wired similar to this, just low speed to one fan & full speed to the other, since I don't have 2-speed fan motors



Need to add a another fuse/relay panel up front to run the headlights, fans, etc.,





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4 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Does it have the same issue - circuit load carried by the switches? The windows are slow to operate without this mod - now they move in a more sprightly fashion.


I am sure the full load goes through the switches.  In the spider, almost all ignition power runs through the ignition switch.  This was fine in the early 70's, but Fiat never changed the setup as they added more power hungry accessories. 

I added a relay setup on the wipers about 6 months ago and now they function like normal wiper speed; first time in the 20+ years I have owned the car.  :)

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  • 1 month later...
On 3/25/2021 at 2:39 PM, gmsgltr said:

Oh boy! Cant wait!

Is Maciek's 850/truck conversion still around?

I don't know - he was having trouble with stress cracks even back when he made it.  Hopefully he will be @ Carlisle & I can ask him...

The cool feature on the one I referenced (StiggyPop on TB) - is that he used the T/gate for the back of the cab, and it's functional. Plan is to do the same, possibly with a slightly shorter cab though.

Going to +T it while I'm at at, and looking for C30 or C70 seats...

Been racking up the parts to refresh engine, suspension, brakes, etc., in the process. Car sat for at least a couple years & rotors, calipers are fucked. One front strut sticks. One plus, the Koni adjustables from my XC BNE coil-overs are drop ins for the front. Picked up a used set of IPD bars & hardware.

On the X1/9, got sidetracked with some additional rust (inner strut tower) repair I wasn't on dealing with this year. Added brake ducts that vent the rad tub while I was in there. 



added the fuse/relay panel up front - used a XC fuel filter bracket to fit it




Used sections of the bumper bar off the S40 parts car to make the rusted strut tower outer reinforcement removed earlier


All primed, painted, sealed & undercoated


closed cell foam to seal the ducts



Repurposed a chime relay to act as a lights-still-on warning - I do that all the time




Dash finally going back in, with HVAC box renovated


GPS box for Marshal speedo recessed into dash



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  • 3 months later...

Since my C30 thread is archived.....

I installed the rear diff on my C30 that I had added the Quaife 11J to about a year & a half ago... now I have proper AWD with front & rear Quaife LSD's.


Not many pics, I already documented the R&R of the rear elsewhere.  Basically, remove rear shocks, unbolt brake calipers & suspend from shock mount plate. Disconnect ABS sensors & Haldex harness. Disconnect rear CV at Diff. Remove trailing arm forward bolts (4), remove subframe bolts (6). Slightly lower entire rear, then disconnect EVAP tubes (3) and unbolt leak detection pump from subframe. Drop rear.


essential tool for removing rear axles from diff


transfer Haldex module (DEM) from old diff to modded diff


Fill AOC with .7 liter of Volvo-branded oil. Put diff back into subframe, install left axle into diff, push diff to left side, install right axle into diff. I did NOT want to deal with removing the hubs or separating the control arms to pivot the hub out. Replaced the left axle (used part) while I had it apart - I had repaired the inner boot on the original, and that had started spraying CV grease this past spring.


Tipped the entire assembly over to the passenger side & filled the diff, also Volvo fluid, .7L





While I had the rear down, I rewired the extra 2 wires (Y, WH) I had added for the VW DEM into the Volvo harness



Going back together - had the Mrs push the rear subframe forward under the car whilst I aligned the pinion with the rear CV


After that, it was all pretty much cut & dry, just several hours labor to put everything back together


Almost forgot - I did install a new version CEIKA rear brake setup, this one has a mechanical parking brake, vs. the old hydraulic version that wouldn't maintain eBrake function over time. This version is MUCH cleaner design & pretty easy to set up - if only they provided proper directions, it wouldn't be so frustrating dealing with them


These are the directions given for adjusting the caliper mechanism (step 11):



I figured out they were referring to this grub screw - you can see an adjuster wheel inside (I had to remove the caliper to do this, as one cannot see inside the hole with the caliper installed)



so, knowing now that there is an adjuster wheel, I tried rotating it CW, and then CCW to figure out which direction resulted in proper tensioning of the mechanism. I sent them these pics, hopefully they will include them (or their own)  in future directions that make sense.


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Forgot to update on the X1/9:


Drive to Carlisle - only me & one Volvo this year - 


Fiat got moved away from adjacent to the Volvo section this year :(

The other red X1/9 is what mine looked like originally



I did get this


Did the exhaust note trials - just for fun - noticed I'm getting some oil smoke :(


Finally got the car Dyno-tuned on Thursday. 195WHP, 165WTQ








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  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/20/2021 at 2:31 PM, tighe said:

When you're all done, toss it up on BaT!


K20-Powered 1980 Fiat X1/9

He had a thread on my X1/9 forum for that build - very nicely done all over. $43K is a nice price for an X1/9 K/swap. They'll have to bury me in mine, I'm never selling it....

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On 8/23/2021 at 9:34 PM, lookforjoe said:

They'll have to bury me in mine, I'm never selling it....

Yep, feel the same about my 855T!  They ain't making any more of them..

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