16 replies to this topic

[Yellow95]

I am familiar with the radiator side but have never traced them back to the motor. What am I in for? Any tips or suggestions?

Gary

[Oreo931]

I am familiar with the radiator side but have never traced them back to the motor. What am I in for? Any tips or suggestions?

Gary

When I did it I got covered in oil. Everywhere. I had to get creative with extensions and torx bits.

There actually arent that many bolts holding everything on. IIRC its one 10mm bolt holding the lines in place (on a support bracket?) somewhere near the frame, and then I cant remember whats holding the lines into the block. I know there is a metal piece that keeps the lines in the block, and I think its held in with a torx screw. The lines also have o-rings on the end of them (on the side that goes into the motor too), so if you arent replacing those be careful not to lose them. Have fun

[64pvolvo1800]

When I did it I got covered in oil. Everywhere. I had to get creative with extensions and torx bits.

There actually arent that many bolts holding everything on. IIRC its one 10mm bolt holding the lines in place (on a support bracket?) somewhere near the frame, and then I cant remember whats holding the lines into the block. I know there is a metal piece that keeps the lines in the block, and I think its held in with a torx screw. The lines also have o-rings on the end of them (on the side that goes into the motor too), so if you arent replacing those be careful not to lose them. Have fun

I JUST did this job. One torx 25 holding the "claw" for the line to oil pump connection. One 10mm bolt holding the lines to the engine block and it's a pain to get to, but a few extensions and a u joint will do it. and that's it. The trick I found was to jack the engine a little and give yourself a little more room to get the torx bolt off. Also, put the Orings in the oil pump and oil them before you work the lines into the orings. You can;t/shouldn't try to force the orings and lnes into the pump together. It doesn;t work that way!

All in all, the 10mm is the pain. You lose what oil is in the cooler and the lines but no big deal.

another note: I used a set of long torx bits from HF and used a 10mm wrench to turn it. You don;t have the room in there to get a socket style torx on it. This really is an easy job as jobs go. Of course, you'll probably find your front engine mount trashed like I did and then be back under the car next week. Ask me how I know!

[cn90]

During re-install, On the radiator side, apply a worm-type screw clamp over each of the 2 factory clips.
In fact, all Volvo deale techs now do this to avoid cooler line from coming loose.

The clip came loose on me on a highway. I posted my experience here:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=108979

[AlvinL]

Like everyone who's done it has indicated, it's not a tough job but nice to have all the proper tools to do the job.

I had an oil leak here from a damaged o-ring that I found. It's easier to raise the engine a bit to remove oil thermostat housing (#1) to get at the flange screw (#12) due to the sub-frame being in the way. With the housing off, it gives the freedom to maneouver the new oil ines back on. Careful you don't nick the o-rings in the process (the reason for my job). I was able to reuse one of the o-rings (#5) and gasket (#15) but that's your call.

Attached Files

•  Oil_Cooler_Turbo__Large_.jpg   77K   96 downloads

[a2matt]

I just did mine and everything that could go wrong did. This is how I think you should do it - after having to redo mine about 8 times before being leak-free.

1. Unbolt the 10 mm bolt holding the lines to the block. It's a PITA since the bolt is behind another bolt holding the A/C compressor in place. Do this step first if you want to avoid oil in your hair. I was already changing my radiator, so I had the fan out of the way. Not sure if you need to take off the fan, but it's pretty fast and couldn't hurt. If anyone has any bright ideas on how to get that bolt out, I'm all ears.

2. Drop the serp belt.

3. You need to peel back the wheel liner like you would for a timing belt job. Unbolt the oil thermostat housing from the block.

4. Take off the clips at the radiator. You can now take the oil lines out.


5. Once out, you can break free the torx bolt holding the flange in place.

You want to take out the thermostat housing because it needs to be cleaned up before installing the new lines or they will leak.


Order a new flange and bolt. The old flange will be bent. That costs about two bucks. There's also a rectangular o-ring between the t-stat housing and the block. Get a new one of those for about six bucks.


Reinstallation:
1. Clean out the t-stat housing where the oil lines go into it. I used a dremel with a wire wheel. If you screw up this step, the o-rings won't seat and you'll have leaks. Also clean the area for the rectangular o-ring.

2. Put the new green o-rings on the lines and USE LOTS OF VASELINE. Installation will cause lots of twisting and they might tear (like mine did) if not greased up.

3. Put the lines back into the t-stat and tighten down the flange just a bit. Make sure the flange seats flatly. If not, keep cleaning. Loosen the bolt so that the lines can rotate freely.

4. Bolt t-stat to engine. The rectangular o-ring should stay in place for you without too much trouble.

5. Run the lines back into position and tighten them to the block with the 10 mm bolt.

6. Connect at the radiator.

7. Tighten flange down w/ Torx, but add threadlock to the bolt before tightening it in place.
This part is a little tricky since there isn't a lot of clearance. I used the correct sized torx socket w/ a box wrench around it to tighten it up (see timing belt tricks thread). The box wrench can go from the 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock positions (i.e., the wrench is above the lines, not below) - that's why you need to drop the serp belt. Make sure the flange is seated flatly and not bent. Do not overtighten or you will strip out the t-stat hole.

Where I went wrong was that my flange wouldn't seat flatly on the t-stat. This was because the holes were caked with some crud that I hadn't gotten off. I tried to force it by tightening the bolt harder. This did two things. First, it ripped the o-rings. Second, it stripped out the threads on the t-stat (it makes the perfect sized hole for a 5/16" bolt if things get too hairy).

Do as I say, not as I do.

[Oreo931]

^^^You are making things WAY more complicated than they need to be...

I never jacked up the engine, I never removed the thermostat housing, I never took off the s-belt...I never did a lot of those things. Most of that stuff is not necessary at all.

[jdlc]

^^^You are making things WAY more complicated than they need to be...

I never jacked up the engine, I never removed the thermostat housing, I never took off the s-belt...I never did a lot of those things. Most of that stuff is not necessary at all.

Whereas it can be done without removing that housing, it certainly is 'a way'. I think the rationale behind this is to have access to the two holes so they can be cleaned before putting in the hoses and green o-rings. I was able to do that without removing it, but if said holes are rusty/dirty, it can be hard to slip in the green o-rings. My take on this: try to clean those holes in place first, and get at least 4 green o-rings, it's not uncommon to f%^k 'em up during attempts to install. If that wouldn't work, the above method is definitely worth considering. The only down-side is to decide whether to get the expensive rectangular gasket for the housing or not in planning to do the job...

As for 10 mm the bracket bolt, use a short/reg 3/8" socket, stuff it with paper or anything to make it shallow with just enough bite so it wouldn't sink, then use one of those flexi-extensions so it can snake around obstruction - worked like a charm for me for both removal and install, the latter is where the 'shallow' trick really plays out.

[a2matt]

Agreed. If you can clean the t-stat housing in place, then don't remove it. Some q-tips with solvent might do the trick. +1 on the "get 4 o-rings" comment.

I removed my t-stat housing mostly because I had no idea how to get the torx bolt and flange off (now I know to use an L-torx or torx socket and turn it with a box wrench).

I guess the only main points are:
a) grease the o-rings
b) clean out the t-stat housing really well
c) the 10mm bracket bolt is a sonofabitch
d) it's easy to strip out the t-stat housing if you're a dumbass

It's not that hard. Crap, there are only 2 bolts (4 if you do it my way) to worry about. I'm still trying to figure why the local volvo shop quoted me $650 for the job.

[Chilled Man]

1 . Buy a 99+ Oil pan with oilcooler attached
2. buy 99+ maincoolant line
3. Install these items and ditch such silly oil lines

[jdlc]

1 . Buy a 99+ Oil pan with oilcooler attached
2. buy 99+ maincoolant line
3. Install these items and ditch such silly oil lines

I considered this, if only I have lots of time....
I've done pan drop before, and it's not fun w/o a lift.
Then I was told the turbo also needs to go off for install... that was the deal breaker for me.

For those with leaky cooler lines, don't burn $200+ bucks, do it for a fraction of price - click the link on my signature below!

[Yojg]

I just did this today. I pulled the wheel and flipped the flap open to get a shot at the torx 25. It's pain in the butt

[holler1]

I just changed out these oil lines yesterday along with a radiator replacement. I strongly recommend the approach a2matt used and those pictures are great. Getting the 10 mm bolt out is not hard with a small socket with a long extension. Getting the bracket off the thermostat housing and the oil lines out is not hard with a Torx socket. However, getting the 10 mm bolt back in is hard because of the interfering bolt on the AC compressor, and I found it impossible to get the lines back into the O rings on the thermostat housing without breaking the O rings. I ended up opening the fender liner, taking off the thermostat, putting the O rings in the thermostat body, putting the lines in, putting on the bracket with Torx screw, then re-installing the thermostat and oil lines as an assembly. Then I spent several hours trying to get the 10 mm bolt started through the oil line brackets. Finally it worked and the radiator went back in in an hour or so.

[jdlc]

QUOTE (holler1 @ Apr 12 2009, 12:57 AM) I just changed out these oil lines yesterday along with a radiator replacement. I strongly recommend the approach a2matt used and those pictures are great. Getting the 10 mm bolt out is not hard with a small socket with a long extension. Getting the bracket off the thermostat housing and the oil lines out is not hard with a Torx socket. However, getting the 10 mm bolt back in is hard because of the interfering bolt on the AC compressor, and I found it impossible to get the lines back into the O rings on the thermostat housing without breaking the O rings. I ended up opening the fender liner, taking off the thermostat, putting the O rings in the thermostat body, putting the lines in, putting on the bracket with Torx screw, then re-installing the thermostat and oil lines as an assembly. Then I spent several hours trying to get the 10 mm bolt started through the oil line brackets. Finally it worked and the radiator went back in in an hour or so.
EDIT ^^ pix: http://picasaweb.goo...130091342739346

10mm swivel: http://www.sears.com...943196&sLevel=0

Did you try stuffing your 10mm socket with papers or something to make it shallow with just enough bite? This would have allowed you to start the 10mm bolt into the lower block even if the socket is not flush to the head of the bolt allowing you to get around the obstruction. This is a bit tricky not to cross-thread the bolt, but the bracket themselves can help align the bolt properly.

The challenge to put in the green o-rings is exactly the topic above, I was able to do it in place with multiple tries (but not before destroying a couple of those o-rings in my T5m because the entry of the orifice where the lines go in are not smooth anymore) but it can be done. What worked for me on that was to push in the green o-ring (already around the tube) at an angle, allowing one side to go in already, then pushing the other side still portruding using a good angled pick like the one that came with this http://www.sears.com...05_00947090000P
It took me multiple tries to make it.

I think it's never mentioned in the thread but the 10mm bolt must be installed after intalling the block/housing connector so it wouldn't 'fight' you during the engine-side line install. A helper would be nice to hold the hose up while installing so it wouldn't slip out once in because you must install both before the bracket can be applied. Or good assortment of clamps to hold them in place in absence of a helper.

[a2matt]

When I did mine, I had the t-stat housing attached to the block before going at the 10mm bolt. Like you, I spent hours trying to get it started. One of the tricks is that you can bend the metal part of the lines just a little. Also, you want pull the bracket for the 10mm bolt (attached to the lines) out from the engine by about 1/4" so you can get the bolt started. I'm pretty sure that mine is cross threaded, but after three hours, I really didn't care. In the worst case, I figured that I could just zip tie the lines in about 10 places so that they wouldn't move.

Once bolted to the engine, you can go back and threadlock and tighten the T-25 on the housing flange.

Be sure to check for leaks. With the car on jack stands and the passenger wheel off and wheel liner peeled back, you can run the car until it gets hot. If you've got a leak, it'll probably be from the o-rings at the bottom of the housing flange. Mine leaked right away because I tore the o-rings during install (no vaseline and I tightened flange too much before having all lines in position). I cleaned the housing better, but then I replaced with non-oem rings due to time constraints. It lasted for about 1000 miles and then started leaking again. The bolt had loosened up. Replaced with oem rings and threadlocked bolt. No problems for the last 1200 miles knock on wood.

[holler1]

I actually got the 10 mm bolt on the pipe clamp in partway fairly quickly but it was cross-threaded. I had to use a tap and die to clean up the threads before trying it again. I did use paper in the socket to hold the nut. I think my biggest problem was that I only had a long socket, about 2 inches long, that could not line up right because of the interfering bolt on the AC compressor. I should have gone to get a shorter socket. If anyone does this, get the shortest 1/4 inch drive socket possible with a flex extension. What would be ideal would be a U-shaped extension, which doesn't exist as far as I know. Clamping the hoses up to keep the holes lined up is also a good idea, as is bending out the bracket and putting on the housing first.

I'm convinced the best way to get the metal lines in the housing is to take off the housing first and put the lines in off the engine. That was really easy compared to trying to get the lines into the O rings in that tight space under the crank pulley.

Mine hasn't leaked yet but I will keep an eye on it. Hopefully, if I have to do it again my "schooling" on the first time will help.

Here are a few more pictures. First is the thermostat housing where the lines go in. Second is the location where the lines clamp on the engine. Third shows how the oil cooler lines fit in relation to each other.  Img_2236.jpg   204.84K   61 downloads  Img_2237.jpg   185.4K   65 downloads  Img_2238.jpg   168.41K   66 downloads

[Cal3thousand]

Just wanted to include my findings upon completing this job:

1) the Torx is NOT 25. On my 1994, it was a 27. On top of that, it stripped the first time I tried and had to hammer a 30 Torx in there to get it out.

2) I don't see how you guys did this job without taking the oil thermostat off. Best tool for that is the SAME T40 torx you need for the coolant thermostat (BUY ONE!!!)

3) Although not necessary, draining the oil first helps. And taking off the oil filter is HUGE for clearance. So is slipping off the Serp belt.

4) Easiest way to get to the 10mm bracket bolt is from the front with a wobbler extension (long). Unclipping the lower hose on the radiator side first may help with angling a long extension (you're gonna remove it anyways and it gives you chance to drain some oil and catch it first.

5) Not much oil lost in this job, but it can get EVERYWHERE. Be ready... extra extra ready.

6) My flange was not bent, but extra cruddy. Getting the oil thermostat off to clean it was a big help.

7) On reassembly, route your hoses first without connecting anything. Then, put the green o-rings in the oil thermostat (be sure to clean the seats first) with fresh oil. Slide the hose fittings into the thermostat straight in with light pressure while turning back and forth (make sure they are oiled too). Its not that hard and took me 5 minutes max. (This is why I can't even imagine doing this job without having the housing free). Then put the rectangular o-ring back on with some oil (mine was in fine condition, but I replaced it since I already bought it). Then replace the flange and screw and tighten fully (the hoses will still be able to rotate enough since you routed lines already). Then bolt the housing to the block with the T40s. Then prepare for the nightmare known as threading the bracket 10mm. The only key I can offer for this is to have patience, concentration, dexterity and zip-ties for backup

8) Orlando (JDLC) hooks it up with the quality lines! All the fittings were perfectly clocked onto the hoses and the oetiker clamps perfectly placed. I'm happy.