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The Ultimate Budget Build


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#1 HtownTurboBrick

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 10:57 PM

As some of you know I've gone through a fair amount of S70 T5's and motors since I've joined this board. The current count stands at 3 S70's and 5 motors. The latest car is a 1998 S70 T5M with 160k on the clock purchased back in October of 2008. In November I went and dynoed 246whp and 291wtq (see mod list below), fast forward 5 months and the 175k motor is now making piston slap noises, originally believed to be bad valves. The upsetting news of my most powerful T5 to date now needed a new motor with just over 6 months into the ownership hurt, especially being laid off back in February. What should I do? Give up and just find a car that I don't spend so much money on and can daily drive. Remember this is my 3rd car in as many years and my 4th consecutive damaged motor. The current 2.3l still had some time left, if we could pull it out quickly and replace with a donor motor the long block could be salvaged for a future full build.

I weighed my options and broke down my costs, $800 for a junkyard motor, labor costs (Aaron's buddy hook up and payment plan easing my pocket book pains for sure even though at the time I still owed just over 1k in labor and parts for him doing stage 0 and mods to the T5M motor) would easily put me in around 2k just to have a daily driver again, and not including the 5K~ for a motor build. So round table discussions were had between Aaron, Juan and myself and we looked at motor prices and a light bulb went off while we pondered how to achieve a budget build.

We decided to use a 2000 V70R motor which has .1 more displacement, solid lifter head (huge selling point as I have a knack for breaking valves), better cooling system, larger injectors, bigger turbo, VVT and factory forged internals. Now I will concede on the forged internals part, because currently I don't have evidence to prove this and there has been much debate on whether or not this is true on here and v70r.com. But we are searching archives and threads to find the data and photos of a torn down B5244T2 internals versus a regular B5234T5 and contacting Volvo R&D to get the confirmation on this part, so we'll take the forged internal debate off the table for now.

Regardless of it all, the motor is just proven to be a stouter set up and easily capable of dealing with a factory 19T, unlike it's predecessors. What made it even sweeter was the fact that I was able to source one from Volvo & Saab auto dismantler in California shipped to Houston for $1350. It included full long block, intake manifold, ETM and green injectors. The 19T and exhaust manifold were not included, overall still a very fair price for what I was getting.

Now we get to the fun stuff. Some of you may have caught on by now that I do own a 1998 S70 and I'm talking about stuffing in a 2000 R motor. For anyone who is unaware in 1999 Volvo went from mechanical throttle body, cap and rotor ignition and Motronic 4.4 EMS in the 1998 models to a ETM, coil on plug and ME7 EMS. This brings up the issue on how any of the newer equipment will work on an older setup. Simple, take everything you can use and rip it off and put on what you can. This is by far as straight forward as any motor swap ever done from a 2.3l into a 2.3l. The only real issues that come about is the intake ports on the block of a 2000 R are nearly 20% larger then the ports on a 98 and older 2.3. So Aaron removed the '00 intake manifold and ETM, took the 2.3l intake manifold and gasket matched the manifold and while there port matched for an N/A throttle body. This was then installed with a little bit of creative routing to fit back in the old style power steering pump, T-Stat and fuel lines to the 2.3l fuel rail and white injectors. The greens are being saved until it's time for larger turbo. Speaking of turbo the 16T was retained from the 2.3 motor and installed along with the 3" turbo back exhaust. Coil packs were removed, and a little bit of material had to be removed for the cap & rotor to fit on properly, but the bolt points from the 2.3 were still cast into the 2.4 motor making the mounting just the same. Other than that the only other modification that was made was an aluminum pipe and silicon coupler were needed to make the necessary clearance and fitment of the NA throttle body and factory IC connection. Everything plugged back in just like it should and my ST 17 PSI tune was retained and actually is a perfect tune for the swap. The optimized intake made for better VE and used up all the richness in the tune and became a solid map. It even increased the CFM of the turbo at the same 17psi.

Now as I mentioned this motor also came with VVT which we hoped to tap into and make some top end gains with some nice timing advance. We were worried that since the motor came from a ME7 car that had parameters for running VVT the car would set to full advance or retard and the motor would fall flat on it's face. To our surprise the VVT not being on didn't matter. The motor is completely neutral without the VVT and it in no way effects driveability without it. We however still wanted to see if gains could be had by making use of the VVT. For this we hardwired a old NOS trigger switch and were able to activate the VVT on command at any point. We found that by sending a straight 12v the VVT was on or off...or so we thought.

Today I hoped on the dyno and spun out 266whp and 340wtq on a 16T with a completely flat powerband. (Dyno graph below) Aaron also chime in on anything else I may have missed in his install. Our final run was where we decided to try the VVT and see if we could make any gains. What we found is, the Volvo VVT is not a true VVT in the VTEC sense of things. Without the proper Volvo EMS the VVT actually made us lose power when we activated it. We feel that the Volvo VVT is purely a fuel economy measure, to control the larger turbo set up. I could spend the $800 for a Greddy management tool for VVT they just released, but for what? A 10-15hp gain on top end? With a little bit more money I can have a GT30R turbo and spin so much more power, so why bother? If you're wondering why not use an older head and not worry about the VVT, why go through the trouble? The head is so much more efficient on the 00 R then the previous motors it's amazing. Solid lifters, much more flow, not using the VVT isn't going to hurt the set up at all and overall still a much better unit by far.

Overall I'm going to say if anything is going to be the new pegs this has to be the new pegs laugh.gif and once I'm able to prove the motor having factory forged internals this motor set up would be the definitive budget built motor for anyone who wants to do a swap. I'll let Aaron post the overall costs for this project versus a built 2.3 which he has also done but the ball park right now is a 1/3 of the costs of a full 2.3 build. Right now I'll break down the mods and power gains made between the stock and 00 R set up.

1998 2.3l B5234T3
246whp 291wtq 45* ambient temp w/ no humidity
-16T
-White injectors
-ST 17psi tune
-RaceLabFabrication custom 3" down pipe & straight through exhaust
-Short ram intake
-8.5mm Kingsborne wires
-MSD Blaster SS coil
-MSD 6A
-NGK-R BKR7E spark plugs gapped .028
-Euro spec R clutch

2000 2.4l B5244T2
266whp 340wtq 81* ambient temp w/ high humidity
-16T
-White injectors
-ST 17psi tune
-RaceLabFabrication custom 3" down pipe & straight through exhaust
-Short ram intake
-8.5mm Kingsborne wires
-MSD Blaster SS coil
-MSD 6A
-NGK-R BKR7E spark plugs gapped .033
-Gasket matched intake manifold
-NA throttle body
-Euro spec R clutch



What's most amazing about this install is the fact that the car makes so much power for so long without every falling on it's face. The torque curve is just so fat that no matter how many people I have in the car, the car makes the same solid pull over and over again without ever feeling like I'm lacking in power. The 16T doesn't even feel like it's even close to running out of breath much like the stock tune feeling. I can do a progressive roll on the throttle at 40mph and break the wheels loose every time like I'm on wet pavement. The car just absolutely obliterates 1st and 2nd from a dig or a roll, 3rd and 4th are scary gears because of how much speed it builds in so little time and there's usually not enough road to ride them out before something forces me to slow down.

Some video of street passes, and the dyno day and current pictures of the setup and car will be uploaded later. As for now the future of this project will turn towards cosmetic, brakes and suspension. I'm extremely happy with the motor and the power it's making currently and don't expect to being doing any further power mods for a while but the future will contain

Engine:
-GT30R
-Green injectors
-FMIC (possibly cryo spray)
-RaceLabFabrication Tubular exhaust manifold
-RaceLabFabrication Intake manifold
-RaceLabFabrication True cold air intake (Kit GB coming soon)
-Water/Meth injection
-SpeedTuning reflash
-Sach 707 Clutch and pressure plate
-Quaife LSD

Suspension:
-RaceLabFabrication custom coilovers, control arms and endlinks
-IPD rear sway bar

Brakes;
-S60R Rotors
-Porsche 996 Calipers front & rear
-RaceLabFabrication 996 BBK brackets front & rear (available soon)

There's a ton of custom cosmetic stuff that will be happening in the next few months so stay tuned folks, This should be a fun ride, figuratively and literally.
~Jon AKA: the ddrunkn trigr hapy pumckin~


- '98 S70 T5M w/ '00 R motor swap 266whp/340wtq on 16T - 98' S70 T5 Black: Former DD new project - 96' 850 GLT -

RIP Joe Ng 02/29/56-08/18/05...



#2 Mogatu'r

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 11:24 PM

well, after not login in for a while "parents are in town". I def have to say that this friggn car is fast!!! Aaron once more did another first here in our lil ol town called houston lmao...

The car pulls incredible, low, med and top hard as phuck, words cant describe it!

big props to aaron, idk... how / what / when / why, we'll be doing the things we are doing to our cars if it wasn't for u...

Jon, congrats buddy!! sorry for not making it to the dyno sad.gif ... i'll call car boy on monday and schedule my dyno section.

see u later bro',,, wait wtf i am in ur bedroom lololol...
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#3 Mesoam

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 11:27 PM

nice torque numbers and 266 whp out of a 16t isn't anything to shake a stick at
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#4 ErikS

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Posted 25 April 2009 - 11:37 PM

Nice work Aaron, and congrats Jon.

I picked a pretty circuitous route and arguably cheated slightly, but I'm going to get there
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#5 ajhehr

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 12:17 AM

thanks guys. I really appreciate all the faith you guys show in me.
I.E.

(our conversation after jon was told hell need a new engine.)
jon: "How much do you want for Pras's engine"
me: "i dont want to sell it, why dont we put an 00 R engine in it?"
jon: "can we do that?"
me: "sure. why not?"
jon: "ok. so I guess Ill try to find an R motor."

really thats all it took.

Ok on to the particulars.
the Dyno. I really dont think that the dyno we went to is 100% accurate. I would have like to see the correction factor and smoothing #'s. HOWEVER, both the old and new dyno's were on the same unit, (on the old motor it happened to be about 30 degrees cooler when the dyno was done).
So the comparison is valid. The spike at the initial point of the dyno gives you a good indication of what this graph would have looked like had it its original 19t, there really isnt much more air left in the 16t to squeeze out. on some higher octane and another psi or 2+ some more timing we might have been able to squeeze another 10 to 15 hp out of it. but I dont think the turbo would last.

this car really is something strange. this turbo is working its butt off, but you get no sense that the car is really even trying, other then copious amounts of wheel spin...

I do expect some people to start criticizing the dyno and its accuracy, but I implore you not to miss the point of this thread. THE SOLID LIFTER HEAD ENGINES ARE AN INCREDIBLY VIABLE WAY TO ACHIEVE GREAT GAINS WITH A MINIMAL AMOUNT OF TIME AND MONEY.

INSTALL
the cam sensor, cap and rotor bolt up HOWEVER you must drill out the end of the camshaft slightly. It is still threaded but the shoulder of the cam and rotor plates is a small amount larger then the holes in the cams. I was able to do it with a hand drill and incremental snuck up on the desired ID.
after that the 00R upper mount and block can be installed, the pigtail from the cam sensor can be ran behind the block with no problems.

The 00R engine has a coolant tube that runs from the thermostat housing to the other end of the head. RETAIN THIS. it allows small bubbles of air to be circulated from the head.
there is a vacuum line that runs from the banjo/coolant fitting to the PCV system, that does not exist on the pre VVT engines. I deleted this as I though it a likely cause of pressurizing the crank case. you may wish to keep it and run it to the end of the pre vvt manifold. It is helpfull to re-run the coolant hoses from the bottom of the thermostat housing to the coolant tube.
because,
In attempting to install the manifold I realized that I needed to crush the hard foam conduit that the PCV hose and coolant hose run in as it interrupts the manifold. This just took a little "persuasion" and it worked well. (the tubes are both aluminum not plastic.)

The pre VVT manifold will need to be PORT MATCHED not gasket matched unless you are planing on doing a P+P/full gasket match. I took a stencil from the head and overlaid it onto the manifold and got to cutting.

earlier fuel rail, lines and metal vacuum line (that go over the Timing belt) were retained, but could easily be re run to install the later R plug cover.
98 accessories were all used. including the thermostat cap as it had the nipple for the expansion tank and the VVT's have them on the top of the radiator.
no brace for the upper inter cooler pipe is installed as of yet, hasn't been a problem but the addition of the 00R upper pipe and stay would alleviate this.
00r timing cover required some notching to clear the 98 tensioner.
later model oil pan and oil cooler lines were retained.

the end.
that is all that required modification.

once again. Thanks!
please feel free to ask any questions of myself or jon.

#6 mdlimy

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 01:01 AM

Awsome write up! i bought a 2000 V70R and im doing basicly the same thing with my 850, good to see good results!
Cant wait to hear some more about this and see some pics.

#7 NGB

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 01:02 AM

Let's see some pix!

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Parting: 2004 C70 Vert, 2002 C70 Coupe, 2000 C70 Coupe, 2000 V70R, 1998 V70R, 1999 V70R, 2000 S70 GLT SE


#8 flyfishing3

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 01:10 AM

good stuff.


do it to it.

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#9 lookforjoe

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 01:18 AM

QUOTE (ajhehr @ Apr 25 2009, 08:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
thanks guys. I really appreciate all the faith you guys show in me.

please feel free to ask any questions of myself or jon.



Very Nice. Pics Needed!


Main question has nothing to do with the motor biggrin.gif - when will the BBK REAR AWD brackets be available, and $$???

VSXCsig3a_zps930bdcd1.jpg
1998 V70 XR M66 PTE6262 BB Built '04 2.3l Block Wiseco Pistons 147mm H-Beams '03 Ported Head EnemY21Cams TurboTuner 710cc Inj, DW300, 3" DP back Dual Magnaflow 14834's Apr 2013 408WHP AWD (@7925rpm) 347WTq(@4400rpm)@18psi LGSpeed Header Custom Intake Manifold 30x12.5x3.5"Treadstone FMIC Spec Stage III+ SO603FS Kaplhenke CoilOvers


#10 sconeman

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 01:25 AM

wow. very cool. I would definately want to do this if I ever need a new engine...uhm would this work on and older (95) too with 4.3?

#11 pwebb

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 01:53 AM

what about just a head swap? better? same diff?
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#12 POSTITSORGTFO

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 02:07 AM

about time you posted this up tongue.gif

only thing I am bumbed about is I wasted that money buy that 98 engine and that 98 head when I could of just dropped in the 99XC engine in the coupe smile.gif

nuts lol
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#13 Spanky

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 02:47 AM

QUOTE (HtownTurboBrick @ Apr 25 2009, 03:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
As some of you know I've gone through a fair amount of S70 T5's and motors since I've joined this board. The current count stands at 3 S70's and 5 motors. The latest car is a 1998 S70 T5M with 160k on the clock purchased back in October of 2008. In November I went and dynoed 246whp and 291wtq (see mod list below), fast forward 5 months and the 175k motor is now making piston slap noises, originally believed to be bad valves. The upsetting news of my most powerful T5 to date now needed a new motor with just over 6 months into the ownership hurt, especially being laid off back in February. What should I do?


Hmmmm......not trying to be a smartass but do you know what you have done wrong in the past?? I just still do not get how some guys on this board have been through so many engines that are said to be "bulletproof"?!?!?!?!?
Shitty tune??
Car you take to the track every weekend?
MBC??

I am not here to bust your ass...and I don't know your story..... just curious more than anything
Contact me for turbos, turbo parts and rebuild kits

#14 norcal505

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 04:09 AM

very, very cool.
if i had to buy a post-rwd volvo, here's my dream build:
-Volvo S70 AWD sedan
-5-spd tranny
-R motor
-Complete R-Bodywork/Bumpers
-Saffron Respray.

IMO, that would be *really* cool to roll around with in the States...
1992 Volvo 245 Swedish Deliv. B230F, m47, ipd suspension, cam, etc..
1991 BMW E30/4 Faux-Euro-spec M42, getrag 240, dinan chip'd, list goes on and on..
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#15 ajhehr

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 04:34 AM

QUOTE (SPANKY @ Apr 25 2009, 08:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hmmmm......not trying to be a smartass but do you know what you have done wrong in the past?? I just still do not get how some guys on this board have been through so many engines that are said to be "bulletproof"?!?!?!?!?
Shitty tune??
Car you take to the track every weekend?
MBC??

I am not here to bust your ass...and I don't know your story..... just curious more than anything



Well One happened when he was bringing me parts for Pras' car, torrential rain and ti took a big gulp o water...

one ran out of oil...

2 were just bad luck

um does that cover it jon?

#16 BAREASS

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 05:02 AM

Wow. I had no idea about any of this. I'm not cool enough anymore D:

Impressive stuff, Aaron.

Jon, when do I get to take a ride? EAG on Friday?

Also, no pics in a Show Room thread makes me a sad panda.
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#17 swc75

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 05:25 AM

Very Nice
What numbers would you predict with a 19T?
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#18 EVL WAGN

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 05:28 AM

Phucking pure awesomeness right there!!!! Good work!!!

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#19 HtownTurboBrick

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 05:58 AM

Yea that about covers it Aaron, just a whole lot of bad luck and bad judgement calls on my part. And these motors are far from bulletproof, especially with me behind the wheel laugh.gif

QUOTE (BAREASS @ Apr 26 2009, 12:02 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow. I had no idea about any of this. I'm not cool enough anymore D:

Impressive stuff, Aaron.

Jon, when do I get to take a ride? EAG on Friday?

Also, no pics in a Show Room thread makes me a sad panda.

You're always busy, you know I try to keep you in the loop. You'll get a ride when you pay the fee duh laugh.gif j/k give me a holla bro it's any time. Pics will be up soon I hope. Little brother stole my camera for his prom pics.

QUOTE (swc75 @ Apr 26 2009, 12:25 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Very Nice
What numbers would you predict with a 19T?

Not going to bother going with a 19T, but you should seen numbers for a real 00 R w/ FWD manual (post #2's car) here shortly. We imagine hitting 300+whp and close to 400wtq on that.
~Jon AKA: the ddrunkn trigr hapy pumckin~


- '98 S70 T5M w/ '00 R motor swap 266whp/340wtq on 16T - 98' S70 T5 Black: Former DD new project - 96' 850 GLT -

RIP Joe Ng 02/29/56-08/18/05...

#20 ajhehr

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 06:21 AM

QUOTE (HtownTurboBrick @ Apr 25 2009, 11:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
We imagine hitting 300+whp and close to 400wtq on that.



THAT my friend is quite an imagination! laugh.gif ph34r.gif




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