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T5850

Oil Sump

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So I was driving home today and pulled off the highway after a little run, and damn, the oil light comes on and the motor sounds like a ball bearing in a beer can. I replaced the oil pump and timing belt last year. Welp, I called around and decided it is most likely the oil sump o-ring(s) that have failed or torn. Bought the kit and the oil pan sealant. Anybody have a write up or something so I can refer to it? I have never pulled the pan on this thing. Thanks.

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its pretty straight foreward except for the subframe being in the way a little bit. my mechanic taught me to do it by dropping the subframe a little to help get the oil pan past it. You can check the oil pickup seals by checking your dipstick after running the car. if the oil is aerated (lots of little bubbles in the oil on the dipstick) then chances are its your pickup seals.

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Where are the oil pick up seals? Because I bought the sump o-ring kit, it has a large flat gasket/seal that is super thin, then a silver dollar sized rubber ring with a spring inside, and then a 6-8" approx diameter rubber ring. Which is what?

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When you pull the pan there is a tube with a round disk at the end of it snaking out from the bottom of the engine. This is the pickup. You have to take it off to replace the O rings on it. I forget exactly how many there are, where exactly they are or what they look like, i did this job with my mechanic two cars ago.

If you go to a volvo parts department and ask to look at their diagram you will see how it all comes apart and can see exactly what seals/o rings you need. The things you listed dont sound familiar but I may be wrong. lets hope someone who has done this recently will chime in.

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That's because the parts department gave my the pump not the sump gasket/seal kit. I now have the right kit. I will follow your basic ideas and I appreciate your input. I am used to small blocks and things, not turbo motors from Euro. By the way, do you know what your avatar is from?

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What is the proper way to lower the sub frame a bit? I don't want to just loosen all the nuts/bolts.

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you need something to support the engine. those supports that sit on the frame rails like this one work well

EngineSupport_7388.jpg

then you just loosen the bolts for the subframe and engine mounts that bolt to the subframe. i forget exactly which ones need to be taken out to only drop the subframe a bit. try searching, there may be write ups here on VS about it somewhere, i just dont know where they are...

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Your biggest problem is going to be getting the power steering lines clear of the sump pan to drop it out. There is a dog ear on the transmission bellhousing that blocks your ability to bend the power steering lines out of the way. Bending the lines is an uncomfortable feeling to begin with but with enough force they will move out of the way after you remove the brackets.

To clear the dog ear on the bellhousing I jacked the motor up slightly with a floor jack under the transmission - it only had to go up about 1/8" in my case.

I used the Curil K2 anaerobic sealer from FCP when I put my son's back on and it didn't work worth crap - the pan still leaks at the seam. Others suggest that the OEM Volvo sealer stuff works much better.

...Lee

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your best bet is to get under the car to have a look at what you'll have to do before you attempt it and then post back here with any specific questions you have. I don't remember doing anything with the power steering lines when i did it with my mechanic, but maybe ozark lee's method doesnt involve dropping the subframe which is why they were an issue for him? just speculating, i may be wrong. +1 to using only the OEM volvo seal.

forgot to add...

my avatar is the mouse head that deadmau5 uses to represent himself

deadmau5 is a dj from toronto/niagara falls if you've never heard of him

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