8 replies to this topic

[Siscos850Turbo]

Ive developed an oil leak I think its coming from the Oil Cooler hose, before i found out it was leaking i replaced the CV Axel on the passenger side and gave it an oil change then it started leaking.

[Modus]

Top by the radiator or on the bottom? Is this leak a drip or residue?

[jdlc]

Siscos850Turbo, on 05 August 2009 - 02:35 AM, said:

Ive developed an oil leak I think its coming from the Oil Cooler hose, before i found out it was leaking i replaced the CV Axel on the passenger side and gave it an oil change then it started leaking.

Check the connections to the radiator if the leaks are from there.
If it's the hose(s) or crimping to the end of the hoses, they must be replaced - do both at the same time.

Check my sig if you want to save some $.

[Siscos850Turbo]

Modus, on 05 August 2009 - 05:46 AM, said:

Top by the radiator or on the bottom? Is this leak a drip or residue?

Bottom and drips, Its the hose close to the oil filter..

[FCP Groton]

both hose for the oil cooler come out the bottom front side of the engine. Are you seeing the oil dripping from the line? The reason I ask is because I thought one of my oil lines were dripping and it ended up being the dip stick. It would come out of the tube and drip down onto the lower oil cooler line.

[atefitty]

Siscos850Turbo, on 05 August 2009 - 02:35 AM, said:

Ive developed an oil leak I think its coming from the Oil Cooler hose, before i found out it was leaking i replaced the CV Axel on the passenger side and gave it an oil change then it started leaking.

If the hose is wet its probably bad..They usually fail where they are crimped to the metal fittings..I just did mine today..They cost $80 at the dealer..Got mine at a junkyard for $16...Some of the bolts are a little tough to get at...But if you've got the better part of a day to spend on this project you can save a little.

[Siscos850Turbo]

atefitty, on 07 August 2009 - 04:47 AM, said:

If the hose is wet its probably bad..They usually fail where they are crimped to the metal fittings..I just did mine today..They cost $80 at the dealer..Got mine at a junkyard for $16...Some of the bolts are a little tough to get at...But if you've got the better part of a day to spend on this project you can save a little.

yeah thats where its leaking from, i hate to drive it around with the leak and auto part store doesnt have the hose for it..

[JordanW]

atefitty, on 07 August 2009 - 04:47 AM, said:

If the hose is wet its probably bad..They usually fail where they are crimped to the metal fittings..I just did mine today..They cost $80 at the dealer..Got mine at a junkyard for $16...Some of the bolts are a little tough to get at...But if you've got the better part of a day to spend on this project you can save a little.

$80 at the dealer? WOW, awesome price... I can't seem to find OE Oil cooler lines for less then $100... Where is this dealer?

[a2matt]

JordanW, on 09 August 2009 - 11:22 PM, said:

$80 at the dealer? WOW, awesome price... I can't seem to find OE Oil cooler lines for less then $100... Where is this dealer?

I think I paid ~$180 at DW Volvo for the pair back in February. Also order extra green o-rings, a new $2 metal flange for the oil thermostat housing and a new rectangular o-ring for the oil t-stat housing.

The most important part of this job is to clean out the t-stat housing where the lines go in. When the openings are cleaned out (spotless is the key here), the lines should seat properly with very little effort. Don't overtighten the T30 bolt or you will strip out the aluminum threads on the t-stat housing. I used threadlock on mine. Also, be sure to lube the new o-rings with vaseline or they will rip.

A short L-shaped T30 tool comes in handy on this job.